Omega oils are one of the most important components of your pet’s diet, but with such variety of products on the market, aimed both at animals and humans, how do we know which to opt for? Here at My Pet Nutritionist, we recommend a variety of different products from various different brands, and for many different reasons! This blog past aims to help you choose the right omega source for your pets, and explains how to tell one product from the next! What Are Omegas? Omegas are Fatty Acids with a huge variety of uses within the body. Cell membranes are partly formed by Omegas, which deems them an essential nutrient for all living beings. Brain and heart health are both aided by omegas, as well as weight management and cognitive development during puppyhood, and as seniors. Omegas also control part of the body’s inflammatory response, making them useful for joint health, as well as aiding the management of, prevention of, or treatment of many health conditions. Omega Fatty Acids come in three types: Omega 3 and Omega 6 fatty acids are both classed as ‘essential’ nutrients Omega 9 is classed as non-essential but is beneficial to include in the diet So how do the three types of omegas differ chemically? Each different type of omega has not only a different chemical structure, but they have a different amount of saturation of fat. Let’s take a look at their differences a bit more closely. Omega 3 Fatty Acids are ‘polyunsaturated’, which means there is more than one unsaturated carbon bond. In a diagram of chemical structure, you will see two or more ‘double bonds’ between carbon atoms, with a hydrogen atom missing. These polyunsaturated fatty acids cannot be produced by the body, and must be consumed in the diet. Omega 6 Fatty Acids are also ‘polyunsaturated’, however two of the Omega 6 Fatty Acids are able to be produced by the body, leaving the third needing to be consumed in the diet. Omega 9 Fatty Acids are ‘monounsaturated’, which means there is only one unsaturated carbon bond. In a diagram of chemical structure, you would see only one ‘double bond’ with no hydrogen attached to the carbon atoms. These fatty acids can be produced by the body, which makes them non-essential in the diet. We mentioned that some omegas play a role in the body’s inflammatory response, so let’s discuss which ones are inflammatory, and which are anti-inflammatory. Omegas 3 and 9 have some fantastic anti-inflammatory effects on the body, which aids joint health, and is also a contributor to the reduced risk of cancers. There is also one Omega 6 fatty acid which is anti-inflammatory. The names and health roles of these anti-inflammatory Omega 3, 6 and 9 Fatty Acids are as follows: Eicosapentaenoic Acid (EPA): Omega 3 Fatty Acid playing a role in general reduction in inflammation. Alpha-linolenic Acid (ALA): Omega 3 Fatty Acid playing a role in heart and immune health. Docosahexaenoic Acid (DHA): Omega 3 Fatty Acid playing a role in brain health and cognitive development. Gamma-linolenic Acid (GLA): Omega 6 Fatty Acid aiding the control of hormones. Oleic Acid (OA): Omega 9 Fatty Acid plays a large role in prevention of cancer and heart disease, and reduction of cholesterol. The other Omega 6 Fatty Acids are inflammatory, which negate the omega 3, and vice versa. It is very much a balancing act of omega 3 and 6 consumption, to receive the benefits of omega 6, but keep inflammation to a minimum. Linolenic Acid (LA): Omega 6 Fatty Acid which helps to prevent heart disease, keep a regular heartbeat, and potential to prevent blood clots. Arachidonic Acid (ARA): Omega 6 Fatty Acid which as an important signalling molecule, plays a huge role in the mediation of many cellular functions such as remodelling actin, a extremely important protein in some cells in the body, useful for protein-protein interactions. Findings Here Findings Here Findings Here Sources of Omega Where can we find these all important Omegas in order to add them into our pet’s diets? There are so many sources of Omegas, some good, some not so advisable. They are found in many forms, from fresh foods, to extracted oils which come in capsules, or in a large bottle, usually with a pump. There are meat based sources of omegas, and there are plant based sources of omegas. Some of the most popular sources of each type of Omega 3, 6 or 9 Fatty Acid we have discussed so far in this blog post, are: Eicosapentaenoic Acid (EPA): found in fatty fish and fish oils, as well as many algal oils. Alpha-linolenic Acid (ALA): found in flaxseed oil, chia seeds, walnut oil, perilla oil or oysters. Docosahexaenoic Acid (DHA): found in fatty fish , fish oils and algae oils, and eggs. Gamma-linolenic Acid (GLA): found in Hempseed oil, borage oil (to be given with caution, in small quantities only), and evening primrose oil (to be given with caution, and not to be given to epileptic pets) Linolenic Acid (LA): found in sunflower oil, some nuts, seeds, olive oil, flaxseed, avocado oil (though the amount here is low) and eggs. Arachidonic Acid (ARA): found in meat and poultry, particularly farmed. Oleic Acid (OA): found in olive oil, some fish oils, and some nuts. What to Look Out For When it comes to picking an omega source for our pets, as with anything, most of us want to make an informed decision to pick the absolute best for our furry friends! With such huge variety of Omega products on the market, how to we know what is best? How is one product different to another? As with many dietary additions, there are many qualities to look out for or avoid in different products. Not all products are equal in quality, so that’s where we come in handy – keep reading for pointers on selecting a source of omegas for your pets! Fresh Food Sources As with most things we
If you’re reading this blog post, it’s quite likely that you have just become, or will soon become a puppy parent, owner, guardian, or whatever you prefer to go by! Getting a puppy can be both exciting and scary – the dog world is such a minefield when it comes to information on general health and wellbeing. To set our pups up for a life of health, we need to be super careful what we feed them! Here at My Pet Nutritionist, we bring you this blog post, where you will find out what is best to feed your new, or future addition! Dietary Requirements for Puppies Puppies require different nutrients for different functions; providing too much, or too little of some nutrients can have a detrimental effect on health, so let’s take a look at nutrients, what theyre for, and the risks of a deficiency, or over consumption of each one. Protein Proteins are macronutrients, and are the building blocks of the body! They’re formed by complex chains of amino acids, of which some are essential (which cannot be made by the body, so must be consumed in the diet), and others are non-essential (which can be made by a healthy body). Proteins make up everything from the fur, claws, immune system, hormones and many more components of the body. While the body doesn’t care where the amino acids come from, we should aim to pick good quality, amino acid rich sources for our dogs – these are found in best quality in beef, chicken, pork and lamb. Sources of inferior, poor quality amino acids include wheat and rice, which we recommend avoiding completely. Proteins build the body and aid repair as they are in a constant state of renewal and degradation. If your puppy consumes too much protein, it may be used as an energy source, but if there is still too much present, it will just be excreted safely through the faeces. If there is a deficiency of protein in your puppy’s diet, your puppy may experience reduced growth rates, anorexia, anaemia, alopecia, infertility, dull coat and brittle fur. Puppies require higher amounts of protein than adult dogs because of their need for growth of new tissues, however this does not mean that owners can safely over-feed their puppies! A small amount of excess protein can be safely excreted, but too much, and excessive weight gain, and rapid growth rates can occur, especially in larger breeds – this is terrible for joints, and can lead to major issues imminently, or further down the line! Fat Fat is another macronutrient, and is super important in a canine diet. They are used as the primary source of energy, of stored in the Adipose tissue for use as an energy source later. Fats are also essential for temperature control, as they insulate the body, as well as acting as a cushion form trauma to major organs. Fats can be saturated, mono-unsaturated, or poly-unsaturated. If you’re into the sciencey side of things, a saturated fat has no double bonds between carbon atoms in its chemical make up, mono-unsaturated fats have one double bond between two carbon atoms in its chemical make up, and poly-unsaturated fats have more than one double bond between carbon atoms in its chemical make up. Dogs have a requirement for two important families of essential fatty acids – omega 3, and omega 6. Omega 3 fatty acids have incredible anti-inflammatory properties, whereas omega 6 can be inflammatory. The modern day canine consumes far more omega 6 than needed in their normal diet and day to day life, so it’s super important to get those omega 3s in the diet, including things like raw egg, raw sprats, raw salmon, tinned sardines, algal oils, fish oils etc. Omega 3 is useful for healthy skin formation, healthy joints during growth, the transportation of fat-soluble vitamins, and modulation of the immune system. As omega 3 is also very important for healthy cognitive function, it’s especially important in puppies! Omega 3 deficiency has also been proven to be linked with aggression in dogs! Findings Here Findings Here Carbohydrates The third of our macronutrients, carbohydrates, come in two types, available, and unavailable. Available carbohydrates are those used for energy. They are digested through the small intestine. The metabolism of these carbohydrates provides glucose for brain function. As there’s only so much storage available for these carbohydrates, over consumption may lead to increased body fat. Unavailable cabrohydrates cannot be digested by dogs, such as soluble and insoluble fibre. Insoluble fibres can aid good bowel health, and keep stools bulky and firm, whereas soluble fibre does the opposite, and helps stools pass easily as it draws water to them. There is no literature available to prove this macronutrients are essential for dogs. Vitamins A, D, E and K These are micronutrients, and are fat-soluble vitamins, meaning they’re transported through the body in fat molecules. Vitamin A is essential for eye and bone health, and can be found in great quantities in eggs, oily fish, carrot, broccoli, and cantaloupe melon. Vitamin D is a hormone that promotes calcium absorption, so play a role in bone health, as well as immune function and cell growth and development. Vitamin D can only be acquired through the diet for dogs, unlike us humans who can get it from the sun. sources include salmon, egg, sardines, liver and mushrooms. Vitamin E is an antioxodiant which protects cells from oxidative stress (damage). Sources include sunflower seeds, wheatgrass, spinach, red bell pepper and pumpkin. Vitamin K contains K1, K2 and K3 – these are all categorised as quinones. These are essential for blood and bone health and development. Vitamin K1 can be found in leafy greens and beef liver, K2 is synthesised by bacteria in the large intestine, and K3 is a common synthetic vitamin. Vitamins B and C Now we move onto the water-soluble vitamins; the vitamins that are transported in water molecules around the body. Vitamin B vitamins have
Those with female dogs will most likely deal with seasons at some point in their dog’s earlier years – the recommended time for spaying is between 2 and 4 years of age, unless medically necessary prior to this age. With seasons, comes the risk of phantom pregnancy! This can be quite a trying time for both us and our perfect pooches, so we bring to you, the My Pet Nutritionist guide to phantom pregnancies in dogs! What is a Phantom Pregnancy, When, and Why Do They Happen? Phantom pregnancy in dogs is fairly common other terms you may see are ‘false pregnancy’ or ‘psuedopregnancy’. Phantom pregnancy is a term used to describe behavioural and physiological tendencies similar to those displayed in a pregnant female dog, even though the dog experiencing these changes is not pregnant. They can occur at any age, following an oestrus cycle (commonly known as a ‘season’ or ‘heat’) in an unspayed female. When your dog has a phantom pregnancy following their season, she may have another after the next season, but this isn’t definite – they can occur after every season, or just intermittently. We’ve covered the what and the when, but now onto the why! At the end of your dog’s season, her ovaries begin to produce the hormones necessary for preparing the uterus for implantation of foetuses and pregnancy maintenance. Now, if your dog has been mated, and is pregnant, these hormones are very important, and well utilised. The problem arises when your dog is not pregnant, so these hormones are not required. It takes around 4 to 6 weeks for these hormones to reduce, and for symptoms to reduce, if the dog displays behaviours as if she were pregnant. When these hormones are present without a pregnancy, changes in the body occur, which show as actions mimicking pregnancy. As the dog gets closer to the 4 to 6 weeks after the end of the season, as the levels of hormones start to reduce, false labour is stimulated, alongside mammary gland swelling. Findings Here Symptoms of a Phantom Pregnancy There are a variety of symptoms of a phantom pregnancy in dogs, such as: Enlarged mammary glands (teats); milk may be present Clingy behaviour Lethargy and fatigue Fluid retention Potential vomiting Loss of appetite Nesting Pacing Carrying and guarding toys Symptoms will vary between individuals, as well as severity of symptoms. Findings Here Findings Here Conventional Treatments In severe or extreme cases of phantom pregnancy, your dog may require veterinary attention, where they may be given a hormone treatment. This treatment stops the production of pregnancy hormones, which heavily reduces symptoms, and stops milk production. Findings Here Supplements to Help Your Dog There are a few supplements that could help your dog through her phantom pregnancy. Let’s take a look at these! There’s also one frequently recommended, which we do not recommend, so we will look deeper into why! Homeopathy is a very popular choice when it comes to those in phantom pregnancy. If you choose to use homeopathy, speak to a homeopath or supplier of remedies. The commonly given options for a phantom pregnancy are Pulsatilla and Urtica. Other remedies may also be advised for mood if the dog is in a low mood. Dogs struggling with behavioural effects of phantom pregnancy, who are just not themselves, may require some calming supplements like Scullcap and Valerian. Another supplement that can help in the event of a phantom pregnancy by aiding in the regulation of hormones, is Borage/Starflower oil. This does come with a caveat though – it must be used with caution, and in small amounts as it can cause liver damage, and may also be carcinogenic. This is due to the content of chemicals known as pyrrolizidine alkaloids. Findings Here Findings Here Vitamin B is a great supplement for those in phantom pregnancy, specifically B6, as it helps regress phantom pregnancies in dogs. Magnesium is an essential mineral for our dogs, and it is great to increase in those with phantom pregnancy, as it encourages all round health within the body, keeping all systems running smoothly, and normally. Finally, Theanine helps control arousal levels in mammals. Keeping the arousal levels in check is important in a female with phantom pregnancy, so as to reduce symptoms and keep hormone levels steady. Evening Primrose Oil – Why Should You Avoid It? We mentioned that one popular supplement isn’t one we would recommend – this supplement is Evening Primrose Oil. It can certainly help a bitch in phantom, but why don’t we recommend it? Evening primrose oil is lower in the omega GLA than Borage oil, meaning it has less of an anti inflammatory effect. This isn’t the biggest problem with evening primrose oil though! The main issue is concerning Prostaglandins; a group of fats which have hormone-like effects in mammals. Prostaglandins stimulate the uterine muscles to shed the lining of the uterus which in turn causes increased pain and worsened associated symptoms. Evening primrose oil is what’s known as ‘oestrogenic’ – meaning it promotes oestrus, and makes symptoms more harsh. Evening Primrose Oil also poses a risk to potential epilepsy patients, as it can trigger seizures, so as a precaution, we recommend avoiding it’s use. Findings Here Other Tips to Help Your Dog As well as offering appropriate supplements to your dog, there are some other things you can do to help them through a phantom pregnancy. Lets have a look at some of these: Firstly, your dog will likely be feeling a little unusual, and sorry for herself. Her body is going through some big changes at this time, so the need for more attention and TLC is common. It is so important to be there for her – it can be a bit overwhelming with your dog clinging to you more than normal, but try to stay calm, and give her plenty of love and extra attention to comfort her. Another behavioural aid during this time, possibly one of the most important
If you use social media, or dog health forums, you may have heard fellow pet parents mentioning ‘cool’, ‘warm’, ‘hot’ and ‘neutral’ foods. The recommendation for itchy dogs, tends to be to use ‘cool’ foods if we look at nutrigenomics and the principle of food energetics. Here at My Pet Nutritionist, we wanted to dedicate a blog to ‘cool foods’, and feeding them to itchy dogs, so we hope this blog post answers any questions you may have! Yin-Yang Nutrition Yin-Yang Nutrition is a Traditional Chinese Medicine concept which categorises foods into four pillars – Cool, Neutral, Warm and Hot. Which category each protein is linked to, depends on that food’s characteristics. Balance is the basis of Yin-Yang Nutrition, and is what determines whether an individual should eat cool, neutral, warm or hot food sources. Lets take a look at the clinical symptoms of and abundance and deficiency of yin and yang. If your dog has an abundance of Yang…they have excessive heat as they’re unable to counteract warming properties. Heat needs to be removed, so cool foods are required. Clinical signs of dogs with an abundance of yang include: Acute onset, usually at a younger age Short course No general weakness High fever Hyperactivity Elevated heart rate Strong heartbeat Tongue discolouration – usually red or purple If your dog has a deficiency of Yang… the body lacks warming properties enough to combat the normal level of Yin in the body, so warming foods are required. Clinical signs of dogs with a deficiency of Yang include: Chronic onset, usually at an older age Long course Low body temperature at the extremities Loose stools Urinary incontinence Swelling of the limbs due to trapped body fluids (Oedema) Chronic weakness and pain Generalised weakness Discolouration to the tongue – usually pale Weak heart rate Deep heart beat Infertility If your dog has an abundance of Yin… they have excessive coldness, and are unable to counteract cooling properties. Warmth needs to be gained, and cold removed, so hot foods should be given. Clinical signs of dogs with an abundance of Yin include: Acute onset, usually at a younger age Short course High pain levels No general weakness Swelling of the limbs due to fluid retention (Oedema) Loose stools Slow heart rate Strong heart beat Tongue discolouration – usually red or purple If your dog has a Yin deficiency… the body lacks cooling properties, enough to combat the normal levels of Yang, so cooling foods are required. Clinical signs of dogs with a deficiency of Yin include: Chronic onset, often at a younger age Long course Generalised weakness Fever, but not high fever Anxiety Increased thirst Seeks cool areas Tongue discolouration – usually red and dry Increased heart rate Findings Here Findings Here If your dog is in perfect balance, then the above clinical signs will not be apparent, and the dog will be healthy, with pink, moist tongue, normal activity levels, a formed stool, no pain, and normal heart rate and beat. When looking at the Yin-Yang theory, these dogs should eat a balance of ‘Cool’ and ‘Hot’ foods, and unlimited ‘Neutral’ foods. Findings Here You can learn more about general Traditional Chinese Medicine here. Which Foods are Cool? So, when we speak of ‘cool proteins/foods’, what do we actually mean? Which foods are cool? Protiens Duck Frog (perhaps not the easiest to source in most countries, but frog meat can be used as part of a balanced DIY raw diet) Rabbit Cod Scallops White fish Eggs Pork turkey Plants Broccoli Cauliflower Turnip Lettuce Cucumber Seaweed/kelp Dandelion Spirulina Swiss chard Wheat grass Button mushrooms Apple Banana Melon Supplements Flaxseed Sesame seeds Itchy Dogs and Cool Proteins Itchy dogs may benefit from being fed cool proteins, in some situations. It can very much depend on the reason the dog is itchy – food intolerances/allergies, or environmental allergies. The problem with food related itching, is that the immunological response to a protein can vary between sources, and isn’t necessarily down to heat in the body. In these situations, working on gut health is important, as is working out which proteins need to be eliminated from the diet. If the dog is suffering with environmental allergies however, the body’s response to an environmental allergen is inflammation, which can often be linked to imbalances in the Yin and Yang. Dogs with itching and allergies tend to have excess Yang. The main element of this, and what we will focus on in this blog, is seasonal allergies. When a dog presents with seasonal allergies, a number of conditions can occur, which can be down to heat invasions with damp elements. Conditions often coming hand in hand with seasonal allergies, as well as occurring independently include generalised itching, eczema, hot spots, interdigital furunculosis, dermatitis, and seasonal alopecia. Dryness during old age can also cause coat and skin changes which present as itching. For itchy dogs suffering with these conditions, feeding a cool diet may be hugely beneficial to getting on top of the itch. While alternative therapies are often frowned upon by the medical community, there are studies to prove the efficacy and safety of Traditional Chinese Medicine, and other natural therapies. Findings Here Findings Here By looking at the dog’s clinical signs closely, you may see some of the less obvious signs of a Yin-Yang imbalance. Once an imbalance is detected, you can tailor the dog’s diet to include more cool proteins, and eliminate any warm or hot ones. As the cooling proteins have an anti-inflammatory effect for those with inflammation in and on the body, the reduction in inflammation will help reduce itching. Ultimately, the Yin-Yang balance will align, and the body will have equal amount of both Yin, And Yang. Theoretically, this will present as perfect health, and eliminated itching. It’s important to bear in mind, that itching could be caused by food sensitivities, which can require a more western approach, and a full elimination diet to be completed. Some evidence does suggest that pruritic dermatitis,
Here at My Pet Nutritionist, we see a lot of worried puppy parents, struggling with pyoderma. Skin conditions are a very common topic at MPN HQ, so let’s take a dive into pyoderma, what it is, what causes it, and how to support the body with it. What is Pyoderma? The word pyoderma, literally translates to ‘pus in the skin’ (‘pyo’ = pus, ‘derma’ = skin). The condition presents as acne-like spots on the skin, often in the chin area, and around the lips. Pyoderma is a bacterial skin infection, the most common bacteria affecting it being Staphyloccocus intermedius. When there is too much of a specific bacteria present on the skin, the risk of pyoderma is significant. Pyoderma can happen at any age, but is particularly common in puppies – known as puppy pyoderma. Pyoderma can spread between humans and dogs, so it’s important to clean your hands thoroughly when you touch the affected areas on your dog. Findings Here Findings Here Causes of Pyoderma A common contributing factor of pyoderma is environment. Dogs living in warm, humid environments may be at a higher risk than those living in cool, dry environments. Humidity and warmth are essential for bacterial growth. Items in the environment can also contribute to the onset of pyoderma; the biggest culprit being dog bowls! Plastic bowls are particularly good bacterial breeding grounds because they scratch very easily (even if you cant see the scratches to the naked eye), which leaves crevices which are difficult to fully clean, allowing for bacterial growth. When the dog touches the bowl, the bacteria rubs onto the skin, causing pyoderma. An unhealthy gut is also a huge contributing factor to the overcolonisation of bacteria, which can cause pyoderma. 70-80% of the immune system lays in the gut. When the gut is damaged, through the use of chemicals, pest control pharmaceuticals, poor diet or ingredients, or any other cause of gut damage, this can have a severe effect on the body’s ability to get rid of the over-colonised bad bacteria. This leaves the dog more vulnerable to pyoderma. Secondary infection is also one of the major causes of pyoderma. It can be a secondary infection arising from a poor skin barrier, poor gut flora, intolerences to food, and contact allergies from the environment. As well as these common health complaints, there is also a genetic mutation called the Fillagrin mutation – this is much like eczema in humans. Findings Here Breed predisposition may also be a factor in the onset of pyoderma, however more research in this field is needed. Breeds thought to be at higher risk of pyoderma include: Spaniels (ususally lip fold pyoderma) Pekingese Pugs Boxers Bulldogs Shar Pei Read more about genes and skin health here! Finally, stress could contirbute to a dog getting pyoderma. Just like in us humans, stress-spots are very much possible. This is down to the skin having developed it’s own HPA axis. When the body is under stress, the adrenal glands release, and flood the body with stress hormones. This sudden burst of hormones can cause pyoderma to form on the skin. Read more about the skin’s HPA axis here! How to Prevent Pyoderma Prevention of pyoderma is something that may be overlooked by many pet owners, but it can happen to any dog at any age, so it’s something to be mindful of. Using the Right Bowls In order to reduce the risk of bacteria against the skin on the face, and around the mouth, we need to be mindful of the bowls being used for food and water. Glass (modern Pyrex is great, but avoid vintage Pyrex due to the potential for lead contamination!) bowls are a fantastic option, but beware if your dog is likely to pick it up and drop it. Stainless steel bowls are also a good option. Avoid plastic bowls, and be cautious using ceramic bowls, due to the ease of cracking of the glaze, which could then harbor bacteria. Keeping the Gut Healthy As previously mentioned, 70-80% of the immune system lays in the gut, so keeping the gut healthy is incredibly important. There are many avenues to keeping the gut healthy. Feed a fresh diet where possible – dry food is very drying on the gut, and often contains ingredients that can contribute to Leaky Gut. Fresh food, whether it’s raw or cooked using one of our recipes balanced to FEDIAF, is high in moisture, so is better for the gut. Avoid using worm and flea pharmaceuticals – these act a lot like paint stripper on the gut, and contain damaging ingredients, not to mention the risk of seizures, ataxia, and other nasty side effects. Don’t over-vaccinate! The adjuvants used in vaccinations can be detrimental to gut health due to the content of heavy metals. Use a probiotic, and if needed, a mucilage herb. Our product Gut Gurdian is a great choice, combining three mucilage herbs, calming chamomile, and some good quality soil based probiotics. Keeping the Skin Clean Keeping skin clean and dry is very important – focusing on the chin and mouth area, wrinkles/folds in certain breeds, and armpits and groin areas. You may wish to use a hypochlorous based product, of topical probiotic product to clean with, such as Leucillin or Dew (Hypochlorous based), or Provilan LUCAA+ probiotic products. Ensure areas are thoroughly dried. Keep On Top of Allergies Allergy symptoms usually include itching – constant itching of an area will irritate the skin, and leave it open to bacterial infections, especially in the hair follicles. It’s important to work on finding your dog’s triggers, and eliminating them. Keep the Environment Clean Try to keep the dog’s living environment clean! A clean environment, means less risk of bacteria. Less bacteria in the environment, reduces the risk of transmission to a host. How to Support the Body If your dog has pyoderma already, there are some things you can do to support the body through recovery. Let’s take a look at some
The long debated question in the world of canines; are dogs carnivores, or omnivores? Here at My Pet Nutritionist, we are ready to put the somewhat controversial question to bed! There may be some fine lines between types of carnivore, and omnivores, so read carefully! Carnivores vs Omnivores: Diet As most of our readers will know, carnivorous animals eat, and thrive on meat and meat products only, whereas omnivorous animals eat, and thrive off a roughly equal mixture of meat and plants. Herbivorous animals eat purely plants, and insectivorous animals eat predominantly insects. ‘-carni’ means meat, ‘-omni’ means all, ‘-herbi´ means plant, and ‘-vore’ means eater in latin Biologically, humans are omnivorous. We are biologically designed to eat both meat, and plant matter. Our feline companions are carnivorous; in fact, they’re obligate carnivores, which means they do not utilise any plant matter well. So where does that leave our wonderful canine counterparts? Canines are facultative carnivores! How does a facultative carnivore differ from an obligate carnivore, and an omnivore, we hear you ask! Think of a facultative carnivore as a step between an obligate carnivore (only eats meat), and an omnivore (eats a fairly equal mix of meat and plant matter). Facultative carnivores eat a predominantly meat mased diet, and need this to thrive, but can benefit from a small amount of plant matter, for which more information is available in our blog: How to Balance an 80:10:10. When we look at Phylogenetics (the system which classifies and categorises every living organism depending on it’s evolutionary history), we can see that domestic, and wild dogs are part of the Canidae Family, and in the Order ‘Carnivora’. Other species in this Order, include Grey Wolves (of which our domestic dogs share 99.9% of their DNA), jackals, foxes, wild dogs and dingoes. Findings Here Findings Here The Digestive Tract When we look at the digestive tract of a dog, or any other carnivore, and compare it to that of a herbivore, or an omnivore, there are differences which further prove that dogs are carnivorous. Because a predominantly meat based diet takes less time to digest, carnivores have a much shorter digestive tract than those who eat a large amount of plant matter. The stomach is an important part of the digestive tract, as this is where gastric juices are mixed with food and kneaded using contractions of the stomach, which breaks the food down, ready for digestion. The carnivores stomach is always single chambered, and takes up around 60-70% of the entire capacity of the digestive system, which allows for consumption of large meals, eaten at a quick pace – many pet owners try to slow their dogs down when eating, however this is not necessary, and is actually very natural, unless the dog has an underlying medical condition, whereby digestive capabilities are poor, and eating too fast causes gas and regurgitation. When we look at the intestines of a dog, or any other carnivore, we see they are incredibly short in comparison to that of a species who consumes a lot of plant matter. As there will be little plant matter to digest, and meat is much easier to digest, the intestine doesn’t need to be longer, in order for it to fully absorb the nutrients gained from the diet. Having a short digestive tract, also ensures bad bacteria consumed in the diet are not able to recolonize. A final part of the digestive tract to look at, is pH – the strength of the stomach acid. The pH of a carnivores stomach is extremely low, making it extremely acidic; close to that of battery acid, when in the presence of food! Having such an incredibly acidic stomach, means they are able to digest meat very easily, as well as fight off pathogens within the food consumed. Omnivores have less acidic gastric juices, and herbivores have stomach acid so weak, it is almost pH7 (neutral), which teamed with a longer digestive tract, aids the gentle digestion of plant matter. Findings Here Findings Here Jaw and Dentition Next, we will look at the jaw, and dentition of the carnivore vs omnivore. Lets take a look at the width of an open mouth. Open your mouth, and look in the mirror. Now watch your dog open his or her mouth when yawning, panting, or eating. You will notice a huge difference in size of the oral cavity when the mouth is open. A large opening enables carnivores to catch, kill and rip their prey apart. Omnivores don’t need to do this, so have a much smaller oral opening. The joint in the jaw of carnivores acts as a hinge, and is very stable; in omnivores, the jaw joint is much more complex, and slightly less stable. The muscles in the face, particularly around the jaw area, are so incredibly powerful in carnivores, that the size of the muscle is what forms the slightly angular shape of the dog’s cheeks/face. Omnivores have a much weaker, and therefore smaller muscle here, which is far less noticeable by eye. The third difference regarding the jaw itself, is that omnivores have plenty of side-to-side movement, as well as backward and forward movement; this allows for the teeth to grind plant matter easily, as well as chew animal based matter. In carnivores, the jaw has extremely limited movement, bar up and down. This allows for the jaw to act almost like a pair of scissors, chopping the meat consumed in to smaller pieces in order to make them easier to swallow. On to the teeth! Both carnivores and omnivores have Incisors at the front of the mouth, followed by incisors, followed by molars at the back of the mouth. These, however, have different qualities in carnivores versus omnivores. The incisors of a carnivore are pointed, and short; this enables them to efficiently catch and disable prey. The incisors of an omnivore are not pointed, and are longer in comparison to other teeth in the mouth. The canines
At My Pet Nutritionist, we often hear from panicked pet parents when their dog presents with joint issues, especially knuckling of the paw. In this guide we will take a dive into some of the conditions which cause knuckling and look into some remedies to help. What is Knuckling? Often called Knuckling Under, the condition concerns the joints in the paw. Knuckling occurs when the dog walks and/or rests on the top of the foot as opposed to the pads. It can be sporadic, or on every step, and can happen on any one of the paws, multiple paws, or all paws. Knuckling can happen in both puppies and senior dogs. Signs of knuckling in puppies usually show between the ages of 6 and 14 weeks, and most commonly affects large and giant breeds, but can affect smaller breeds too. At the other end of the spectrum, senior dogs usually show symptoms of knuckling under at around 8 to 14 years of age, particularly those suffering from Degenerative Myelopathy or Arthritis. What Does Knuckling Look Like? There are a few signs of knuckling under to look out for: Foot scraping: When the dog walks, they will often scrape the top of their paw on the ground which may cause their claws to wear unevenly. Shaking: The metacarpal/metatarsal areas (the lower fore and hind limb, respectively) may shake or be weak. Paw positioning: The toes will be tucked under the foot, so the dog is walking on the top of the foot, not on the paw pads. This can happen when standing, or when walking. When walking, the paw position may be normal some of the time and tucked under some of the time. What Causes Knuckling Under? Knuckling under is usually an outward symptom of an underlying health issue. We will outline these below. Puppies Carpal Flexural Deformity The most common cause of knuckling in puppies is Carpal Flexural Deformity (CFD), more commonly called Carpal Laxity Syndrome. This condition, that usually presents clinically by 4 months of age, can be down to a dietary issue; usually excess protein consumption, overnutrition and undernutrition. In one study, the phosphorus, calcium, and magnesium values were increased in those with CFD when tested. Findings Here Findings Here Another common reason for CFD is rapid growth spurts; this is particularly common in larger breeds of dog. When this occurs, the bones and tendons grow at different rates, causing the carpus to bow, and the paw to knuckle under. Findings Here Findings Here Puppies with CFD may be required to wear a splint to keep the lower limb straight and hold the toes straight so they don’t knuckle under. Gradually building up the extent of the affected puppy’s exercise may also help rectify the deformity. A balanced, fresh diet is essential to avoid over or undernutrition. The Ultimate Guide to a Healthy Puppy Seniors Osteoarthritis Arthritis is an inflammatory joint disease. It is long lasting and progressive; meaning it continues to worsen with age. Walking may become difficult as joints seize up. Dogs with OA will often be stiff after laying down for periods of time. The most common disease that can result in knuckling in senior dogs is osteoarthritis (OA). According to Canine Arthritis Management, around 80% of dogs over 8 in the UK have osteoarthritis, possibly 35% of the dog population across all ages. In one study, 69% of the sample dogs with suspected cases of OA were confirmed cases. The researchers estimated that an average of 200,000 dogs are affected by OA each year. Findings Here Feeding a fresh diet, with additional supplements with anti-inflammatory effects, can help reduce pain and keep the joints healthy. Read our Guide to Inflammation here! Severe cases may require prescription NSAIDs from your veterinarian. Degenerative Myelopathy Similarly, to OA, Degenerative Myelopathy (DM) is also very common in senior dogs. DM is a progressive degenerative disease of the spinal cord, and often causes paralysis of the hind limbs. Degenerative Myelopathy is a hereditary disease which ultimately shortens the lifespan of the dog, usually within 2 years of diagnosis. Larger dogs will progress faster than smaller dogs. A genetic test can be carried out on younger individuals before breeding to show any mutations to the SOD1 gene, which is where DM stems from. The SOD1 gene codes for the protein responsible for the destruction of Free Radicals in the body, called Superoxide Dismutase. When there is a lack of destruction of Free Radicals, they turn from beneficial to harmful as they begin killing cells which then causes the onset of degenerative diseases. Findings Here Findings Here Some of the breeds most affected with DM include: Pembroke Welsh Corgi Bernese Mountain Dog Poodle Pug Boxer Golden Retriever Borzoi Cavalier King Charles Spaniel Soft Coated Wheaten Terriers While the condition is often suggested as not painful, your veterinarian may prescribe NSAIDs. You may wish to add plenty of omega 3 and other anti-inflammatory supplements to your dog’s meals. Many owners with dogs in the later stages of DM purchase a dog wheelchair to enable continued mobility. Intervertebral Disc Disease Intervertebral Disc Disease (IVDD) is a spinal condition caused by the herniation of an intervertebral disc and can happen on any part of the spine. Retrogenes are copies of a standard gene, which haven’t copied correctly and have then inserted themselves into the genome. The Fibroblast Growth Factor 4 retrogene (FGF4) on chromosome 12 is mostly responsible for the chance of an individual suffering from IVDD as it controls the length of the spine. Findings Here IVDD is most common in chondrodystrophic dogs (those with short legs and long back) but can also occur in dogs with other structures A study carried out by scientists in Sweden looked at insurance claims, thought to be representative of the entire population of dogs in Sweden. 40% of the claims involved some form of disc disease (not just IVDD),proving its becoming a fairly common issue seen in
Many dog breeds will reach 50% of their adult size within 5-6 months. Some breeds will be fully grown by 8-12 months, some 12-18 months, and others 18-24 months. With this incredible range, it’s no surprise that puppyhood is in fact a critical period, and one that we need to get right. Post weaning is the most nutritionally demanding period in a dog’s life and this is even more demanding in large or giant breeds. It’s not just bones that grow in puppies, but every part of their body. They have muscle growth and they are constantly renewing cells. This includes those found in the gut, those on the skin and of course red blood cells (and white blood cells for that matter – which are crucial to their immune function). Their brains are also forging new connections and strengthening important ones. For all this growth, regeneration, and for want of a better word, work, they need two things. Puppies need fuel and nutrients. So let’s take a look at these two things that puppies need in a little more detail. Fuel Fuel is energy and dogs are particularly good at using fat for energy. For this reason, fat is not something to be avoided in your growing puppy. Fatty acids can be saturated, monounsaturated, or polyunsaturated. The difference is in their structure. Saturated fatty acids contain no double bonds between the carbon atoms and are therefore saturated with hydrogen. Monounsaturated fatty acids have one double bond (mono=one). Polyunsaturated fatty acids have two or more double bonds (poly=many). The more double bonds a fatty acid has, the less stable the molecule, which means it is more susceptible to oxidation, resulting in rancidity. This is why fish oils should be stored in a dark, glass bottle and why PUFA rich oils shouldn’t be used for frying! In dogs, the body has a requirement for two distinct EFA families. The Omega-6 and Omega-3 series. Omega-6 fatty acids include: Linoleic Acid (LA) Arachidonic Acid (AA) Omega-3 fatty acids include: Alpha-Linolenic Acid (ALA) Eicosapentaenoic Acid (EPA) Docosahexaenoic Acid (DHA) But there is often an imbalance. Our modern day dogs and puppies for that matter are seemingly consuming more omega-6 than their ancestors. These guys ate a diet much higher in omega-3. Why is this important? Omega 3 Fatty Acids for Puppies Docosahexaenoic acid (DHA) is particularly important in brain and eye development. It comprises over 90% of the omega-3 fatty acids in the brain. The brain takes up DHA over any other fatty acid and DHA deficient diets are being linked to neurodegenerative disease in humans more and more. Interestingly, Beagle puppies fed diets fortified with DHA had statistically better results in various learning tasks than those puppies fed a DHA deficient diet. Findings Here But what is also of interest is that aggression in dogs correlates with low omega-3 levels too! Findings Here In addition, DHA supports myelin formation – which is the white matter that insulates brain circuits. Myelin sheaths ensure electrical impulses are transmitted quickly and efficiently along nerve cells. This is so important for all dogs, but especially our puppies who are consistently forging new connections in their brain, and wanting them to stick! Sources of Omega-3 Fatty Acids: Sprats Sardines Mackerel Mussels Grass fed beef and lamb Algae Oil Fatty acids are necessary for healthy skin formation, modulation of the immune response and the transport of fat-soluble vitamins. Skin Health in Puppies The skin is the largest organ of your dog’s body and it has 3 layers. Epidermis – above – outer layer Dermis – supports and nourishes – here you’ll find nerve fibres, inflammatory mediators, mast cells (that release histamine), sebaceous glands, collagen and elastin. Subcutis – below – this is fat and connective tissue – provides insulation and energy reserves. The skin functions as a barrier, both ways and it actually forms part of the immune system. In a series of studies in the early 1900s, rats were fed a diet completely devoid of fat. These rats developed visible skin abnormalities, increased water loss across the skin and other body-wide issues. However, when PUFAs were introduced into the diet, these defects were reversed. The skin, especially the epidermis, is organised into layers with a distinctive lipid composition. Linoleic acid (LA) is the most abundant PUFA present in the epidermis and as we know, LA is an Omega-6 fatty acid – the point is not to avoid Omega-6 but ensure there is a balance between the two families. Sources of Omega 6 Fatty Acids: Meat Poultry Eggs Fish Hemp seeds and hemp seed oil contain what is described as an optimal omega 3:6 ratio. Fatty Acids and Immune Health Fatty acids are known to play diverse roles in immune cells. They are important as a source of energy, as structural components of cell membranes, as signalling molecules and as precursors for the synthesis of eicosanoids and similar mediators (involved in the inflammatory response). Recent research has suggested that the localisation and organisation of fatty acids into distinct cellular pools has a direct influence on the behaviour of a number of proteins involved in immune cell activation, including those associated with T cell responses and antigen presentation. Supporting immune health in the puppy is so important to help them develop immune tolerance. Do We Need To Boost Our Pet’s Immune System? Fatty Acids For The Transport of Fat-Soluble Vitamins Vitamins are needed in minute quantities to function as essential enzymes, enzyme precursors or coenzymes in many of the body’s metabolic processes. Fat soluble vitamins can be stored in the body’s lipid deposits, making them more resistant to deficiency but also more likely to result in toxicity. The fat-soluble vitamins include A, D, E and K and for them to do their job, they heavily depend on sufficient fatty acids in the body. Vitamin A The well-known function of vitamin A is its role in vision. Vitamin A is a precursor of rhodopsin, the photopigment found in rods within
Let’s take a trip back to the late 1800s. Whilst Coca Cola was sold in bottles for the first time in 1894, we still hadn’t made that much progress with animal testing. Marie De Manaceine was fascinated with sleep deprivation. She had established that mental disturbance resulted from partial insomnia, but she wanted to know more. So, in her Lab, she recruited puppies. 10 to be specific; aged 2, 3 or 4 months old. Whilst they continued to be fed by their mother, she kept them in constant activity. In short, she deprived them totally of sleep. After 96-120 hours, the puppies were irreparably lost. What is interesting (despite it being macabre), is that when puppies were starved, they could be saved after 20-25 days. This wasn’t possible when they were sleep deprived. Sleep is an essential part of your puppy’s life. Why Sleep Is So Important For Puppies Returning to Marie’s study, she found that sleep deprivation significantly affected the puppy’s brains. When they were starved, the brain was left almost spared. But, in the absence of sleep, fat degeneration, blood vessel abnormalities and haemorrhaging occurred. In short, when the rest of the body is negatively affected by malnutrition, to an extent it can be saved. However, when the brain is affected, it is fatal. The brain is the command centre for the nervous system. It is divided into three main sections; the brain stem which controls basic life functions, the cerebrum, which is responsible for decision making and the cerebellum which controls movement. We know how a diet limited in lipids can detrimentally affect the brain and contribute to neurological disease, but sleep deprivation still had a worst impact in these puppies. Findings Here Sleep is essential to many vital functions. It plays a part in energy conservation, brain waste clearance, immune system modulation, cognition, performance, disease and psychological state. Many studies since Marie’s, have demonstrated that sleep loss (not deprivation) during development can result in reduced brain mass, neuronal death and subsequent behavioural problems. Impaired sleep is also a contributing factor in cases of cancer and diabetes. It can also affect how an animal responds to infection and heals wounds. The long and the short of it, sleep is essential to life. Without it, it massively affects the control centre that is your brain and can cause a range of knock on health problems further down the line. This is even more vital for puppies. It is clear that puppies undergo much more rapid development than the equivalent human child/baby; for example, the average 7-week old puppy would be as developed as a 9-month old human baby. Dogs are also said to be fully matured anywhere between 1-2 years of age (depending on breed). Human brain maturation doesn’t occur until around 25 years of age. Findings Here Dogs have a lot more developing to do in a shorter period of time than us humans. For us to reach full maturation, as with dogs; we undergo cognitive changes, emotional challenges and physical transformations. Sleep is necessary for all of the above. Puppies need to consolidate what they have learnt that day. Whether it is a new trick or simply to avoid chewing the legs of the chair. Puppies need their bones to grow and their muscles to recover from that mad dash around the garden. Puppies eat most things they can get their muzzles around. Some of it may not be particularly nutritional, but they need their immune system strong to fight off any bacteria they accidentally pick up in the park when licking the bench! Puppies need to store memories. That lorry at the end of the street isn’t as scary as it seems and the vacuum is perfectly safe, just a little noisy. Sleep helps them do this. Puppy Sleep Habits This is why puppies spend a most of their first months, asleep. It’s purely down to the colossal amount of developing they need to do in such a short period of time. Adult dogs, in a laboratory setting, when left, will sleep on average for around 13 hours per day. They are diurnal, which means they are active during daylight hours. Rest occurs during dark periods with activity increasing the two hours before light. Dogs have a natural rest period around noon and then reduced activity during the afternoon. Findings Here Puppies can sleep anywhere between 18-20 hours per day. Again, you will notice higher activity in the morning and then rest, with reduced activity around noon and into the afternoon. Puppies will sleep generally after they have been playing or learning new skills; if they have just been out for a walk or have just eaten. The important thing is to follow your puppies lead. And, leave a sleeping puppy, sleep. Interestingly, the experiences that your puppy has can affect the type and quality of sleep they experience though. Studies have found that after a negative experience, dogs will fall asleep more quickly. It is thought that this is a protective sleep in response to stress. This should be in the forefront of your mind throughout your puppy’s development. It’s all too easy to attribute an “exhausted” dog to the busyness of the day. Be mindful, their sleeping habits could be more indicative of their experience. Findings Here Night Time Sleeping vs Day Time Napping Many owners see official sleep time as that experienced during the night. This is more appropriate for adult dogs because puppies need the same consideration throughout the day too. Where you want your dog to sleep is entirely personal preference. Some owners would rather crate train, some would rather not. Some owners are happy having their dog sleep in bed with them, some are not. Just be mindful, if you intend on crate training and you work; that is a huge part of the day that your dog will be spending in a crate. Crates are great for keeping your puppy safe when you are unable to supervise,
Speak to any dog owner who has had the pleasure of those puppy years and you will hear about how that lapse in attention resulted in a chewed leg chair or a demolished sandal. Owners will say, “they’re just teething!” or “It’s just how they make sense of the world!” Is this true? We wanted to explore why puppies bite, nip and mouth and share some top tips on how to stop them. So, why do puppies bite? If you pay close attention to puppies playing, they use their mouths. All the time. There is a good reason for this, but to understand fully, we must look at their teeth in a little more detail. Puppy Teeth 101 Puppies are born without teeth. At 2-3 weeks old, a puppy’s milk teeth will start to come through. These will be the incisors. Puppies should have a total of 12 incisors, 6 on the top and 6 on the bottom of the mouth. 4 weeks will see the development of their 4 canine teeth. These are those sharp long teeth. At any time between 3 and 6 weeks old, you should see them develop their pre-molars. By the time they reach 8 weeks old, your puppy should have a complete set of milk teeth. 28 in total. 12 incisors 4 canines 12 pre-molars 14 in the upper jaw and 14 in the lower jaw. That’s a lot of teeth for a small puppy! And so sharp! Why are puppy’s teeth so sharp? There are two reasons for this. Anyone who has been nipped by a puppy will remember those pin prick teeth. Consider the nursing Mother. When those first sharp teeth start coming through, they will start to irritate the Mother making her reluctant to nurse and want to move away from her puppies, leaving them to search for alternative food sources. This is when the weaning phase starts. Those sharp teeth are the first step for those puppies becoming independent. They learn that they need to seek out other food sources. Their survival depends on it. Sharp teeth don’t only irritate their Mother, they also annoy their siblings. Which leads us into the other reason puppies bite and why you will constantly see puppies using their mouths whilst playing. Puppy biting aids the learning of bite inhibition. It is crucial that puppies learn bite inhibition, this is where they learn to limit the force and strength of their bite. It teaches them that other dogs and humans are fragile. A dog has one defence and that is to bite. Every dog is capable of biting out of fear and anxiety, bite inhibition is a vital technique to limit the damage a dog can do. When puppies are playing together; chewing and nipping, if they bite just a little too hard, those sharp teeth will hurt their sibling. You will often hear a loud squeal or yelp. This tells the offending puppy that it was a little too hard. Play after this interaction will usually stop, so by trial and error, puppies learn that when they bite hard, play stops (the good thing goes away). So if they want the good thing to continue, it’s in their interest to not hurt their sibling. Findings Here So those sharp teeth kick start the weaning phase through their Mother’s reluctance to nurse and they also aid the learning of social etiquette. The reason this learning starts so young can be explained through their further development. Specifically of their jaw formation and also growing their adult teeth. From 8-12 weeks onwards, your puppy should start losing their puppy teeth. This is due to the adult teeth forming and pushing the milk teeth out. You may find some around the house, but most puppies tend to swallow them. This can be a pretty painful time for your puppy, so offering puppy safe things to chew and soothe is super important. Frozen carrots or cucumber are great soothers! This is a good time to double check the adult teeth are forming properly and also to check they have a normal bite. The normal bite of a dog is termed a “scissor bite.” This is because the upper incisors sit in front of the lower incisors when the mouth is closed. However, it is common for short muzzled dogs to have a reverse scissor bite where the lower incisors sit in front of the upper incisors. Most of their teeth will have fallen out by the time they are 6-8 months old and they should have a mouth full of adult teeth. 42 teeth in total. 12 incisors 4 canines 16 pre-molars 10 molars You will notice that the molars are new. Puppies don’t need molars, but adult dogs do. Incisors are needed to rip meat and scrape it off bones. Canines are for puncturing prey. The molars are for grinding and crushing. With the extra teeth and the addition of those for grinding and crushing, it is possible to see why bite inhibition in puppies is so vital. No one wants to be bitten by any of those teeth! It’s not just the teeth that we should be worried about, it is also the strength of the jaw. Thankfully, puppies have weak jaws. They haven’t developed fully. Jaw-adductor muscles generate the main biting force in dogs. As puppies grow, these muscles get stronger. Bite force therefore increases. Findings Here So we can see why learning bite inhibition at an early stage is important. Dogs who learn how to use their mouth gently are less likely to bite hard or break skin if they do ever bite a person out of fear or anxiety. But outside of mother and sibling interactions, how do we teach bite inhibition? If your puppy nips or mouths at you during play, withdraw attention. Turn away from them. Remember that trial and error, when I bite hard, the good thing goes away? Whilst your puppy is playing appropriately, let play continue. You
The 3rd of January is known as the Festival of Sleep, so here at My Pet Nutritionist, we thought we’d look into sleep in a little more detail. We often forget how important sleep is to overall health, for both ourselves and our pets. So let’s get to grips with why our dogs need it and some top tips for improving its quality, including whether there are nutrients that can help too! Sleep is widely studied for its evolutionary benefits. It is crucial for most daily functions. It is clear in humans, that when suffering sleep restriction, they have attention lapses, slowed working memory, reduced cognition, and depressed thought. Studies have also shown a significant reduction inactivity in dogs experiencing sleep restriction. Sleep can also mean the difference between life and death. Let’s take a trip back to the late 1800s. Whilst Coca Cola was sold in bottles for the first time in 1894, we still hadn’t made that much progress with animal testing. Marie De Manaceine was fascinated with sleep deprivation. She had established that mental disturbance resulted from partial insomnia, but she wanted to know more. So, in her Lab, she recruited puppies. 10 to be specific; aged 2, 3 or 4 months old. Whilst they continued to be fed by their mother, she kept them in constant activity. In short, she deprived them totally of sleep. After 96-120 hours, the puppies were irreparably lost. What is interesting (despite it being macabre), is that when puppies were starved, they could be saved after 20-25 days. This wasn’t possible when they were sleep deprived. Marie found that sleep deprivation significantly affected the puppy’s brains. When they were starved, the brain was left almost spared. But, in the absence of sleep, fat degeneration, blood vessel abnormalities and haemorrhaging occurred. In short, when the rest of the body is negatively affected by malnutrition, to an extent it can be saved. However, when the brain is affected, it is fatal. Sleep and The Brain The brain is the command centre for the nervous system. It is divided into three main sections; the brain stem which controls basic life functions, the cerebrum, which is the responsible for decision making and the cerebellum which controls movement. We know how a diet limited in lipids can detrimentally affect the brain and contribute to neurological disease, but sleep deprivation still had a worst impact in these puppies. Findings Here Many studies since Marie’s, have demonstrated that sleep loss (not deprivation) during development can result in reduced brain mass, neuronal death and subsequent behavioural problems. On the subject of the brain, it is pertinent to mention the glymphatic system. As we know, the body possesses its own sewerage system – the lymphatic system – but the brain has its own independent waste disposal system known as the glymphatic system. This system is gaining traction and being implicated in neurodegenerative disease. Researchers suggest that the glymphatic system may also function to help distribute non-waste compounds like glucose, lipids, amino acids and neurotransmitters. This system functions mainly during sleep, being largely disengaged during times of wakefulness – this suggests that amongst its many functions, sleep provides a state of activity that enables the elimination of potentially neurotoxic waste products. Your Pet’s Lymphatic System Sleep and Immune Function Sleep supports the initiation of an adaptive immune response. Slow wave sleep, and the circadian system act in concert to generate a pro-inflammatory response as well as reduced levels of the anti-inflammatory stress hormone cortisol. The hormonal changes in turn support the early steps in the generation of an adaptive immune response in the lymph nodes. In addition, sleep specifically supports memory formation in the immune system. The implication of sleep on immune response is demonstrated in various studies of vaccination, for example sleep on the night after experimental vaccinations against hepatitis A produced a strong and persistent increase in the number of antigen-specific Th cells and antibody titres. Findings Here Sleep and Cognitive Function One of the main purposes of sleep is to consolidate memories or learning. This has also been found true in dogs. Learning affects sleep structure which ultimately decides whether you retain the information or not. Interestingly, in studies, those dogs allowed to sleep after learning a new command were more likely to retain the command at a later date than dogs allowed to walk or play. Findings Here How Much Should Dogs/Puppies Sleep? Adult dogs, in a laboratory setting, when left, will sleep on average for around 13 hours per day. They are diurnal, which means they are active during daylight hours. Rest occurs during dark periods with activity increasing the two hours before light. Dogs have a natural rest period around noon and then reduced activity during the afternoon. Findings Here Puppies can sleep anywhere between 18-20 hours per day. Again, you will notice higher activity in the morning and then rest, with reduced activity around noon and into the afternoon. Interestingly, the experiences that your dog has can affect the type and quality of sleep they experience though. Studies have found that after a negative experience, dogs will fall asleep more quickly. It is thought that this is a protective sleep, in response to stress. This should be a consideration for all dog owners. It’s all too easy to attribute an “exhausted” dog to the busyness of the day. Be mindful, their sleeping habits could be more indicative of their experience. Findings Here In humans, lack of sleep is classed as a major stressor. It wouldn’t be too much of a stretch to suggest similarly for our canine companions. Below average sleep quotas are linked with anxiety, aggression, decreased response to reward, lower frustration tolerance and low resilience. Sleep disturbances affect hormone levels; specifically stress hormone levels. Animals experiencing sleep disturbance demonstrated less grooming behaviour and opt for fewer enrichment activities, and we know how important these activities are for stress regulation in dogs. Findings Here Ideas To Help Your Puppy Sleep If your
The Universe inside your Puppy Here at My Pet Nutritionist we always focus on microbrial health, so we delve into it’s importance for your puppy to hopefully set them up for life. Microbes have been around for billions of years, humans – less than a million and we all know there is much disagreement over the domestication of our faithful furry friends. Microbes can multiply in minutes, survive and thrive in every habitat on earth, and technically, they’ve killed more people than all wars combined. But, without them, we actually couldn’t survive. Microbes are like a bad version of Ed Sheeran, you need me, I don’t need you. The body is in fact like a mini ecosystem. It has many different microbial communities throughout the body. They live inside; in the lungs, nose, urinary tract, and digestive tract, but they also live on; they are all over the skin! Because you sadly have jobs that need to get done today, we’re just going to do a whistle stop tour of the three main microbial communities and how we can support them in the puppy. First up, the skin microbiota. Not surprisingly, the skin microbiota plays a role in skin conditions like atopic dermatitis and even some skin cancers. Check out our blog on atopic dermatitis in pets here. In the dog, there are different communities found in different areas of the skin; there are also clear differences in diversity between healthy and allergic dogs. The skin provides one of the first lines of defence in the immune system, but in two ways. Not only does it have its physical structure to keep things in, and things out, but the community of microbes on the skin also protect against potentially harmful pathogens. The good guys can engulf the bad guys before they gain entry into the body, but they can also compete for nutrients and resources, to prevent the bad guys from thriving. In utero, foetal skin is thought to be sterile. But colonisation of microbes occurs during and immediately after birth. As the newborn puppy moves through the birth canal, he is exposed to a variety of bacteria from Mum. Once puppy is born and grooming begins, Mum passes even more over to her offspring. Mum health is therefore imperative – not only for the diversity she possesses but also her emotional health. Stressed Mum’s are less likely to engage in grooming behaviour, so if she isn’t grooming her offspring, she’s not passing her microbes to them. The environment greatly influences the microbiome of the skin. There are noted variations in skin microbial communities between those living rurally and those in urban areas. There is also an increase in chemical use associated with urban living, which also influences the composition of the microbiome. Diversity is significantly reduced with the use of detergents and antibacterial cleaning products. Potentially pathogenic taxa are also increased as there are fewer good guys to keep the bad guys in check. This is why skin issues like acne or dermatitis are deemed western diseases; they simply just aren’t found on the skin of indigenous tribes or on that of individuals from non-industrialised societies. What is also interesting is that there is also a clear distinction between male and female microbiome, therefore suggesting hormonal influences. This poses food for thought in the neutered pet and how their microbiome is subsequently affected. Unnecessary use of antibiotics also affects the skin microbiome, along with excessive use of grooming products and of course nutrition. The Oral Microbiota There is a collection of microbes found in the mouth; these are the ones that result in bad breath or dental issues. Again, they pose a first line of defence against ingested potentially harmful pathogens. But they also play a role in metabolising certain nutrients. It is clear that the oral microbiota found in dogs differs significantly from humans – some researchers have even gone as far as saying that a human bite would be more dangerous than a dog bite in terms of wound infection potential. Findings here The oral microbiota is gaining more attention and for good reason – there are associations between oral microbiota composition and weight gain, much like we have with the gut microbiota. So, caring for the mouth cavity is just as important as caring for the gut, and colonisation, like in the skin occurs at and shortly after birth – and certainly within the teething period! Data is relatively new, but in human realms, to support oral health, the guidelines regularly include avoiding ultra-processed foods along with high-sugar foods (think high-fructose corn syrup found in many dog treats and processed foods). Guidelines also promote dental hygiene –for our puppies and dogs, raw, meaty bones are a great opportunity to support dental health. Remember to choose appropriately sized bones for puppies – soft bones like chicken necks or wings. They must always be raw – cooked bones pose a splinter risk! The Gut Microbiota/Microbiome When we reference the microbiome, we are considering the microbial community found in the whole of the digestive tract. Generally, the further down we go, the more bugs we find. SIBO or small intestinal bacterial overgrow this when there are too many bugs in the small intestine. We want the majority of them in the large intestine. Each puppy and dog have a unique microbiome – just as we do. It’s like a fingerprint. How cool is that? But it just goes to show that if there is dysbiosis (imbalance of good to bad guys) – there is no one silver bullet. For our puppy, we are in a great position to support optimal gut health from the beginning (not withstanding gene interactions). When we talk about the microbiota or microbiome, we are not just talking about bacteria, but fungi and viruses which live inside the gut too. This is totally normal – the good guys with the right tools can keep the bad guys in check. This community can metabolise nutrients (ruminant
