In part two of our focus on the diet of a senior dog, we will look further into some specific nutritional categories bringing fantastic health benefits to your senior dog. We will also go through our recommendations on what to feed your senior pet, including specific nutrients and supplements you may wish to consider! Read Part 1 here! Specific Beneficial Nutrients There are a number of macro- and micronutrient categories senior dogs would benefit greatly from to slow the ageing process down, and reduce age-related inflammation. The two main categories to analyse here are Antioxidants, and Omega Fatty Acids. Antioxidants: these are one of the most important categories of nutrients to feed your senior dog (and are highly beneficial at any age!) due to their action against oxidative stress. As dogs age, oxidative stress becomes more proliferative; it’s a natural part of ageing! Oxidative stress is caused by ‘free radicals’ – unstable oxygen molecules missing an electron. Free radicals damage all parts of the body from organs to joints, causing joint degeneration, cancer, altering DNA, neurodegenerative diseases, adverse alteration of fats and proteins, and other diseases like diabetes, so it is incredibly important to combat these cells as best you can. Antioxidants tackle and remove free radicals from the body, leading to less oxidative stress, and therefore slower ageing. Some excellent sources to think about including in your senior dog’s diet include blueberries, strawberries, artichoke, goji berries, red cabbage, kale, ginger, spinach, parsley, pecans (in small amounts due to fat content), fresh garlic (avoid in Japanese breeds) and rosemary (avoid in epileptic dogs). Omegas Fatty Acids: this group of fats are another incredibly important category of nutrients to include in your senior dog’s diet, specifically Omega 3. The two ‘main’ omega fatty acids are Omega 3 and 6 – both are essential. Omega 9 is present in the diet too, but doesn’t add as many benefits to the dog’s health as Omegas 3 and 6. Omega 6 fatty acids called Linolenic Acid (LA) and Arachidonic Acid (ARA) are inherently inflammatory. The only non-inflammatory Omega 6 is Gamma-linolenic Acid (GLA). Omega 6 brings many benefits to the health of the dog despite it’s inflammatory properties, including control of hormones, however as it is naturally in abundance in our carnivorous pets’ meat based diet, we need to balance the inflammation out! This is where Omega 3 comes in! Omega 3 includes Eicosapentaenoic Acid (EPA), Alpha-linolenic Acid (ALA) and Docosahexaenoic Acid (DHA), and is inherently anti-inflammatory. The anti-inflammatory properties of Omega 3 Fatty Acids balance out the inflammation caused by Omega 6 Fatty Acids. EPA is the main inflammation reducer, while ALA aids immune and heart health, and DHA aids cognitive health and development. Some excellent sources of Omega 3 to include in your dog’s diet include fatty fish and fish oils, algal oil, flax and chia seed, oysters and eggs. You can read more about choosing an omega supplement for your pet here! Findings Here Findings Here Findings Here What Type of Food Should I Feed? The dog food market really is a minefield! There are many options of different food types, each claiming to be the best! Our ethos here at My Pet Nutritionist is to feed as fresh food as possible! Minimal processing is a major factor in healthy ageing and longevity. In this article, we are going to take a closer look at dry food, fresh cooked food, and raw food. Dry food is not a diet we would generally recommend, especially not for a senior dog! But why? High carb: carbohydrates can have an inflammatory effect on our pets. Dry foods are typically between 30 and 60% carbohydrate – sometimes even higher! Manufacturing process: these foods undergo a huge amount of processing. During the cycle of production from raw ingredient to bag, these foods are subject to up to 4 separate high-heat processes, each time reducing nutritional quality. Synthetic vitamins and minerals: our senior dogs may not be able to utilise the synthetic vitamins and minerals often sprayed onto the dry food at the end of the manufacturing process, deeming them useless. Glyphosate: due to the extreme manufacturing process, glyphosate production occurs. This is the main ingredient effective against killing weeds, but it is linked with cancer and damage of the gut microbiome. Mycotoxins and Aflatoxins: mycotoxins are chemical compounds caused by mould and can lead to vomiting and seizures. Aflatoxins are also caused by mould in food and can lead to cancer and liver damage. Storage mites: before bagging, dry foods are often stored in large hoppers – and even after bagging, the shelf life is very long, encouraging storage mites which can trigger allergies. Advanced Glycation End Products: shortened to AGEs, these harmful chemical compounds are produced during manufacturing, and a linked to cancers, inflammation, oxidative stress and premature ageing. Why do we advocate for a fresh cooked, or raw diet? Which is best for senior dogs? Fresh food is minimally processed, meaning the harmful compounds listed above do not form, reducing the risk of inflammation, oxidative stress and other disease in the body. As the ingredients are still in their whole, natural form they are nutrient dense, and provide the body with excellent nutrition! Another major benefit to fresh food, is that it is high in moisture – moisture in the diet is essential for kidney and gut health, both of which are known to worsen during the ageing process! As the gut motility of senior dogs can reduce, and other changes in the gut naturally occur, many seniors cope best with fresh cooked food as opposed to raw food – though some do still tolerate raw food! We have an extensive array of well formulated and balanced meal recipes for dogs on our website! Our Recommendations There are various aspects of diet we actively encourage owners of senior dogs to include in their dog’s feeding regime. Some may benefit from a more tailored 1-2-1 approach with one of our consultants, however our general
Here at My Pet Nutritionist, we help pet owners help their beloved dogs and cats with all aspects of health and nutrition. Those we consult for include all ages, from puppyhood right through to old age. Our golden oldies deserve just as much love and care as their younger counterparts! As a dog ages, their dietary needs may change – but how? In this bumper 2-part blog, we take a look at the dietary changes your senior dog may need to stay happy, healthy and pain free! Is My Dog a Senior? This is a question we here ever so frequently! Is your dog a senior? Is there a specific age your dog becomes a ‘senior’? what are the signs your dog is becoming a senior? Many processed dog food manufacturers will class a senior dog as ‘7 years plus’ – however we know there are so many contributing factors to a dog becoming a ‘senior’, and this isn’t always at 7 years of age! Factors affecting a dog’s ageing include: Breed: generally speaking, larger breeds will hit their senior years far earlier than smaller breeds. Breeds with predispositions to health conditions may also reach senior years earlier than those without. Genetics: a dog’s family genetics/history can affect the age they reach senior years. Medical history: if your pet has had any health complications growing up, any medical reactions, infections etc, these may cause senior years to come sooner. A dog’s neutering status, or the time they were neutered may also contribute to ageing. Dietary History: a dog fed a gut-friendly diet, full of natural nutrients, with minimal processing for life is more likely to reach senior years later than those fed an ultra-processed diet full of synthetic micronutrients. Ultra-processed dry foods also tend to have a high content of pro-ageing substances called Advanced Glycation End-Products (AGEs) which cause faster ageing. Exposure to toxins: toxin exposure can cause disruption in the endocrine (hormone) system, and cause gut stress which usually comes hand in hand with life shortening conditions, causing senior years to approach quickly. These toxins can be anything from flea and worm medications to environmental toxins both in the home and out and about. Behavioural History: even your dog’s behaviour can have an effect on longevity! This may seem like an odd link, but behavioural stress can have an effect on physical stress, and vice versa. The pathway between the brain and gut, known as the gut-brain axis is at play here! Physical stress on the body, caused by behavioural stress, will speed up the process of ageing. Signs that your dog is entering their senior years include: Weight loss Reduced hearing Reduce eyesight Increased fatigue Less willingness to exercise Reduced cognitive ability Stiffness Reduced appetite Increased water consumption Development of lumps and bumps Lack of balance and stability. Of course, as your dog enters the early staged of senior-hood, these symptoms may be mild, and your dog may only display a few. As your dog progresses through their senior years, more symptoms may appear, or existing symptoms may worsen. Nutritional Needs of a Senior Dog As your dog ages, various changes occur throughout their body which require some nutritional tweaks to ensure optimum health continues. These changes include various internal systems in the body such as: Gut health: the gut of an ageing dog can be subject to various changes affecting gut motility, nutrient absorption and processing. Digestive capabilities often occur due to gut degeneration. Brain health: ageing canines are often subject to cognitive decline. Joint health: one of the major pathways from the gut is the gut-joint axis. When the senior dog’s gut is compromised, joint conditions can become more prominent. Senior dogs generally require more joint support than younger dogs. Dental Health: dental conditions like gingivitis, tooth decay, periodontal disease, tooth fractures and tooth resorption are often seen in older dogs. Kidney Health: kidney disease is one of the more common age-related diseases we often hear about here at My Pet Nutritionist, as older dogs are more susceptible to Chronic Kidney Disease; a progressive disease. Heart Health: as the heart is a muscle, over time it can begin to fatigue. Statistically, around 75% of senior dogs suffer some sort of heart disease! Findings Here Findings Here Findings Here Findings Here When it comes to nutritional composition, we need to look closely at the macronutrients and micronutrients in your dog’s diet; both quantities of, and types/sources of. Macronutrients are the main nutrients our bodies require in larger amounts; let’s take a look these requirements for a senior dog: Protein: The building blocks of protein are called Amino Acids. Amino Acids are essential for pretty much everything in the body to form and function normally, including muscles, tendons, ligaments, cartilage, hair, nails and skin. Protein is also used in the endocrine system, to enable the healthy production of hormones throughout the body. As the dog ages, protein deficiencies become more common, which can lead to absorption issues and muscle degradation which ultimately affects mobility. A meat based, moderate-high protein diet is advisable for senior dogs. Fat: as dogs become less active due to the natural ageing process, a low fat diet may be advisable. Feeding a high fat diet when activity levels are waning may cause weight gain which puts pressure on joints and other parts of the body. The type of fat included in the diet also makes a difference! Saturated fats are the type we ideally do not want much of, however Omega 3 Fatty Acids are known for their anti-inflammatory properties, and are an important part of s senior dog’s diet! More on this later. Carbohydrate: ‘complex’ carbs which are high in fibre may be a great addition to your pet’s diet, to improve digestion, regulate metabolism and help maintain the immune and nervous systems. Higher fibre carbohydrate options include kale, broccoli and leafy green vegetables. Other ‘complex’ carbs that are ok to be fed in small amounts include sweet potato, pumpkin, banana, berries
Here at My Pet Nutritionist, we consult with dogs and cats with a huge variety of health concerns, from digestive problems to dental problems, and everything in between! One of the dental concerns we see, affects both cats and dogs – tooth resorption. It is estimated that around 60% of cats (pure-bred cats seem to suffer the most), and 40% of dogs will be affected by Tooth Resorption by the time they turn 6 years old! There are various layers to the tooth, starting from the outer surface to the very inside of the tooth, the layers are: Enamel: a thin, white, hard layer which protects the sensitive insides of the tooth Dentin: a tick, softer layer of tissues beneath the enamel, containing microscopic tubules which lead to the nerves in the tooth. Pulp chamber: the powerhouse of the tooth. The pulp creates dentin, and also provides the dentin with nutrients to keep it healthy. This chamber is commonly known as the ‘root canal’ as it extends to the root of the tooth. Cementum: a hard surface anchoring the tooth to the gum. The gum also has multiple layers. Starting from the outer surface visible to the eye to the inside of the gum, the layers are: Gingival Margin: this part keeps the teeth securely in place. Gingival Sulcus: attaches the gum to the tooth. Cemento Enamel Junction: the area where the tooth meets the gum. Periodontal Ligament: attaches the tooth to the jaw. Pets with Tooth Resorption suffer from erosion of their dentin, which ultimately becomes destroyed. This process cannot be reversed! Gradually, more and more of the tooth is affected, becoming destroyed, and appearing to absorb into the gum. Findings Here Findings Here There are many types of Tooth Resorption in both cats, and dogs. Types in cats Type 1: Normal density is maintained, and Periodontal Ligament is unchanged. Resorption is in the Cemento Enamel Junction. Destruction occurs toward the root, or in a side to side direction. Type 2: Narrowing at the Periodontal Ligament area, and the tooth root becomes as dense as the surrounding bone. Type 3: a combination of Types 1 and 2 – teeth also become multicoloured. Types in Dogs External Replacement Resorption: most common form in dogs. The ligament space and root of the tooth change dramatically. External Inflammatory Resorption: the tooth roots are very inflamed. External Cervical Root Surface Resorption: lesions are present around the Cemento enamel junction. External Surface Resorption: the very edges of the tooth root may show on x-rays to be slightly uneven. No other clinical symptoms show. Internal Inflammatory Resorption: oval shaped swellings grow in the root of the tooth. Often caused by dental disease. Internal Surface Resorption: oval shaped swellings form further up the tooth root. May be caused by trauma, but are extremely rare. Internal Replacement Resorption: incredibly rare in pets. Progressive condition. Tunnel-like areas form as a result of tooth root fractures. Findings Here Findings Here Symptoms and Causes Outward symptoms are rarely noticeable in most cases of tooth resorption, making diagnosis often difficult. As pet owners, we need to be really vigilant when it comes to oral health. Regular teeth cleaning is important; and as part of your regular husbandry regime, practicing touching your dog or cat’s tooth may be more important than you may think! One of the few signs that your pet may be suffering with tooth resorption, is pain when the tooth is touched. Other signs include: Increase in drooling Head shaking Reduction of appetite (due to pain when eating) Gingivitis/bleeding from the mouth Face rubbing Gagging Frequent sneezing In progressed cases, tooth fractures are possible – this is largely down to potential damage to the crown of the tooth due to loss of structural tissues. As a result of tooth resorption, your pet may suffer with oral infections – this is due to lesions forming on the tooth crown making the inner tooth accessible by bad bacteria. Very little is known about causes of tooth resorption. While many studies have been carried out, no specific cause has been pinpointed. During these studies, it was found that cells known as ‘odontoclasts’ are responsible for breaking down the hard tooth tissues. Findings Here Findings Here Diagnosis The process of diagnosis is usually simple when a dog shows signs of tooth resorption. Firstly , your veterinarian will discuss your dog’s symptoms, and run a physical examination of your dog’s mouth/teeth. Some veterinarians will run an additional examination under general anaesthetic to be able to get a more thorough look/feel of your dog’s teeth and gums. Next, they will take X-rays of your dog’s teeth. The X-rays will enable them to tell if your dog does have tooth resorption, and how severe the individual’s case is. Conventional Treatment Once your cat or dog has received their diagnoses of Tooth Resorption, treatment must be prompt due to this condition being particularly painful. The treatment offered by your veterinarian will depend on the type of resorption your pet has, and also the severity. Some pets may be referred to a veterinary dentist for treatment. In the event that the condition has progressed rapidly, or too far for the tooth to remain stable, the affected unstable tooth/teeth will be removed. This is a surgical procedure carried out under anaesthetic. In some cases, only part of a tooth is removed, if the veterinary dentist, or veterinary surgeon feels this is in the pet’s best interest. If your pet’s condition is not so advanced, and their teeth are still stable in the gum, treatment mostly involves frequent oral health check ups to check if any intervention is needed yet. Another treatment offered in select cases whereby the tooth is saveable, is root canal treatment. Again, this is a procedure carried out under anaesthetic. During root canal treatment, pulp is removed from the root canal, which is then cleaned, and filled with dental material. The aim of this treatment is to slow the progression of tooth resorption. As this
Oral and dental health is incredibly important for all animals. Here at My Pet Nutritionist we strive to educate pet owners on all aspects of health and welfare, so here is our blog about dental hygiene and keeping your pet’s teeth clean! Anatomy of the Tooth and Gum Types of Tooth Just like in humans, dogs have 4 types of teeth. From the front of the mouth to the back of the mouth, these are; incisors, canines, pre-molars, and molars. Adult dogs naturally have 6 incisors on the top jaw,and 6 on the bottom jaw. Incisors are used for grasping items. The canines, of which adult dogs have 2 on the top jaw, and 2 on the bottom jaw, are used for ripping – particularly meat from bones! Adult dogs possess 8 pre-molars on the top jaw, and 8 on the bottom jaw; these are used for grinding – especially bone, and plant matter. Finally, the molars. In adult dogs, there are 4 molars on the top jaw, and 6 on the bottom; these are also used for grinding. The bottom jaw is called the Mandible, and the upper jaw is called the Maxilla. Tooth Structure The outermost layer of the tooth (the white coloured bit we see) is the enamel. This is a fairly thin, hard layer which protects the more fragile/sensitive parts of the tooth. It’s the hardest tissue in the body. Beneath the enamel, lays the Dentin. This is a thick layer of softer tissue which contains numerous microscopic tubules, leading to the nerves in the tooth. These being exposed due to worn enamel are what give the, sometimes painful, sensation when hot/cold foods are consumed. In the very centre of the tooth, you can find the pulp chamber; the powerhouse of the tooth. The pulp in the chamber creates dentin, and also keeps the dentin healthy by providing it with nutrients. The pulp chamber extends into the roots of the teeth, so is often referred to as the root canal. Surrounding the part of the tooth beneath the gum, is a hard substance called Cementum which anchors the tooth into the gum. Gum Structure The visible outside of the gum is called the Gingival Margin, which keeps the teeth securely in place. The next part of the gum, is what attaches the gum to the tooth, and it is known as the Gingival Sulcus. The area where the tooth meats the gum is called the Cemento Enamel Junction. Between the tooth and the Alveolar Bone (the main jaw bone), is the periodontal ligament, which attaches the tooth to the jaw. What do Healthy Teeth and Gums Look Like? Healthy teeth should be white, free from any blemishes (plaque), and meet the gum. Teeth that are grey in colour may need to be removed by a veterinarian because grey denotes dead tissue inside the tooth. A root canal surgery may be performed to save the tooth. Healthy gums should be pink in colour, and moist. They should meet the tooth in a relatively straight line. If the visible tooth is rounded sharply at the bottom, the gum is likely in recession due to gingivitis or periodontal disease. Inflammation around the bottom of the tooth is also a major symptom of poor oral health, as well as bleeding gums. If the gum is blue, red, very pale (almost white) and tacky, this shows there is either an underlying health problem, poor dental/oral health, or dehydration. Age is a factor when looking at oral health. As dogs age, their dental health tends to worsen, often resulting in tooth removals. Older teeth may become discoloured and weaker than those of younger dogs. Findings Here Genetics also play a role in dental health in dogs, just as much as it does in humans. Some dogs are genetically more likely to have weaker enamel, and naturally more yellowed teeth. Breeds most prone to poor oral health include: – Toy Poodle – Greyhound – King Charles Spaniel – Cavalier King Charles Spaniel – Boxer – French Bulldog – English Bulldog – Pug – Yorkshire Terrier – Chihuahua Tips on Keeping Teeth Clean Diet When it comes to diet, which of course we are all about here at My Pet Nutritionist, there are so many things which we could feed our dogs which contribute to poor dental and oral health. Feeding kibble is one of the major contributing factors to poor oral health and dental disease. Firstly, the texture of extruded dry foods; much like when humans eat a biscuit, it gets stuck in our teeth – kibble gets stuck in the dogs’ teeth, as well as around the gumlines, which then contributes to plaque build-up, and gingivitis. Secondly, kibble is very high in starchy carbohydrates which also causes plaque build-up, and damages the enamel. Due to the low level of salivary amylase in dogs (the enzyme that targets carbohydrates), the oral bacteria are put to work, and as a result, the carbohydrates are fermented on the tooth surface, which releases acids which damage the tooth itself. Findings Here Fresh food is much better for the teeth! Not only is it much more digestible than dry food, it’s high moisture content prevents it from getting stuck in the teeth and gumlines. Some breeds with large lips may require a little assistance on removing remnants of food from the inside of the lips. Fresh food is also not high in starchy carbohydrates, so this reduces the risk of tooth and gum damage by carbohydrates. Raw Meaty Bones and Other Chews Feeding Raw Meaty Bones (RMBs) is an excellent way to help keep teeth clean. The ripping action a dog makes to remove the meat from the bone, and the grinding of teeth against the bone itself, help soften and scrape any present plaque from teeth, keeping teeth and gums healthy. Large bones help keep the front teeth and canines clean, whereas smaller bones (always size appropriate for your dog!) will encourage chewing at the back of the mouth to help keep premolars, and molars
Whether you are a seasoned raw feeder or simply want to include raw meaty bones as a way to support dental hygiene for your dog, knowing which bones to feed can be a bit of a minefield. It’s a question we get asked here a lot at My Pet Nutritionist, so we thought we’d put together a handy guide on feeding bones to your dog. We’ll look at the do’s and don’ts and the why’s and wherefores. Why Feed Bones? Depending on the approach you have in feeding your dog, bones will either provide recreational enrichment and dental health support, or a solid 10% of their diet. Bones as Enrichment and Stress Relief Study after study have demonstrated that chewing can counter the effects of stress. Not only does it reduce stress hormone levels, but it also limits sensory processing of external stressors. In short, it keeps your dog’s attention off things it doesn’t need to be paying attention to. At the same time, chewing is known to improve alertness; it shortens reaction time and increases vigilance. This is thought to be due to the increase in heart rate during the chewing task which increases cerebral blood flow and brain activity. So, chewing for the dog can help them rebalance their stress levels and also improve their alertness, which may be of interest if you are preparing training sessions In rest and recovery, chewing opportunities need to be in a quiet space where rest can be encouraged. The increase in heart rate and blood flow, soon dissipates, and with the limited processing of external stressors, the dog is prepared to rest. At the other end of the scale, to promote alertness, offer a chewing opportunity 15-30 minutes before training. This will vary from dog to dog, so it may take some time to find the sweet spot. What is also interesting, is the rate of force needed when chewing, especially when we are encouraging dogs to rest and recover. A strong chewing force induces a greater reduction in stress levels. So, in this situation, larger bones may be more appropriate. Bones for Dental Health Periodontal disease begins when bacteria in the dog’s mouth forms to create a substance called plaque. The plaque sits on the surface of the teeth and with the help of saliva, it hardens to form tartar. Not only does it sit on the teeth, plaque and tartar seeps into gum lines which causes inflammation. Over a period of time, this inflammation and presence of bacteria causes damage to the structures surrounding the teeth; causing receding gum lines and eventually tooth loss. Not only is the mouth and teeth a concern, but the bacteria found in the mouth of your dog can be released into the circulatory system, which then travels through the body. It has been found to damage cardiac tissue causing endocarditis (infection and inflammation in the heart). Oral health is gaining more and more attention in the human realms for its implication in a range of diseases. Much of this we can transfer to our canine companions which means optimising their dental health is of paramount importance. There are a number of chews on the market promoting oral health, but it is actually the mechanism of chewing that helps to reduce build up. Chewing stimulates saliva which produces anti-bacterial agents, helping to keep the mouth clean. Not only this, but the abrasion that occurs during chewing helps scrape deposits off the teeth. So, what type of chew is best? Here’s what the data suggests: Raw bones reduced mouth bacteria by 79%, Daily brushing reduced it by 70% and, Marketed dental chews reduced it by 54-60%. Findings Here As you can see, raw bones lead the way in reducing bacteria and therefore optimising dental health in the dog. Bones as a Source of Nutrition Bone starts as a cartilage model which gets slowly replaced. Osteoblasts are the cells that form new bone and they secrete osteoids. Osteoid tissue is simply unmineralized bone tissue. Soon after the osteoid is laid down, inorganic salts, like calcium and phosphorus are deposited which forms the hardened material that we know as bone. As you can see, calcium and phosphorus make up a large part of the skeleton, and so when these compounds are ingested by another animal, they ingest calcium and phosphorus (amongst others). In other words, when our dogs eat the bones of other animals, they are ingesting what that animal is built of. Whilst calcium is the main structural component of skeleton and teeth, it also plays a role in blood clotting. In addition, it is involved in the intracellular messaging triggering the contraction of muscle fibres. Calcium also plays a role in fat oxidation, and it carries ATP (energy) with magnesium. Calcium’s role in muscle function also includes maintaining the action of the heart muscle. Calcium particles enter the heart muscle cells during each heartbeat and contribute to the electrical signal that coordinates its function, so it’s also vitally important to cardiovascular health. Why Does My Dog Need Calcium Phosphorus in mainly used for the growth and repair of body tissues – it is a component part of bones, teeth, RNA and DNA. In the form of phospholipids, phosphorus is also a component of cell membrane structure and of the body’s key energy source, ATP. Many proteins and sugars in the body are phosphorylated. In addition, phosphorus plays key roles in regulation of gene transcription, activation of enzymes, maintenance of normal pH in extracellular fluid, and intracellular energy storage. As you can see, whilst they are important nutrients for skeletal health and integrity, both calcium and phosphorus also play other roles in the body. But bones are also a source of sodium and magnesium too! Why Does My Dog Need Minerals How To Feed Bones No cooked bones Feed the right size for the breed Avoid weight bearing bones Avoid hollow-marrow bones Weaning/Puppies Chicken necks, wings, feet, thighs Duck feet, necks Rabbit, cut Quail, cut
When we take on a dog, we make it our life mission to keep them healthy and happy; but this isn’t always easy. In an age of information, it can get confusing what to do for the best, so here at My Pet Nutritionist, we thought we’d pop together the top 5 mistakes dog owners can make which compromises health. 1) Over-Vaccinating There is no doubt that vaccination has been progressive in public health concerns, for both humans and pets, but they were never meant to make the host sick. For a number of reasons, the current vaccinations schedule for our pets, is. There is increasing evidence that over-vaccination is associated with the development or aggravation of immune-mediated disorders and chronic diseases in individual pets that are genetically predisposed. This is where titre testing can be useful. A titre is a simple blood test which establishes the levels of existing antibodies in the blood. Antibodies are produced when an antigen provokes a response from the immune system. This response can be from natural exposure or a previous vaccination. A positive test indicates that the patient does have protective levels of antibodies. A negative test indicates that the patient does not have protective levels of circulating antibody. However, it is worth noting here that a negative test result does not indicate susceptibility to disease. On the whole, test correlation with protection is fair to good. Canine adenovirus, distemper virus and parvovirus all correlate well. Feline calicivirus is fair to good, whereas herpesvirus is fair. Feline parvovirus correlates well. Findings Here Titre tests are routinely used to establish the efficacy of rabies vaccination for pet travel schemes. Findings Here These outcomes particularly shine when you compare them to the suspected adverse reactions for vaccination in small animals. Findings Here Titre testing is like checking your fuel gauge before you leave home. You want to make sure you have enough fuel to get to where you need to go. Why not check your dog needs a vaccine before you actually give it? Vaccinosis: Damage Vaccinations Can Cause Your Pet 2) Not Feeding A Fresh Food Diet Dogs are facultative carnivores. This means they thrive on a meat-based diet. Every cell in the body requires energy to carry out its role. Without getting caught up in biology 101, there are a number of cycles that occur in the body to produce energy. Dogs have this nifty ability to use this process known as gluconeogenesis – this produces glucose from non-carbohydrate sources. Dogs have a great capacity for using fat for energy. Not only do they reap the energy rewards from nutrients, but meat in it’s whole-food form contains a number of micronutrients which support body function. Why Does My Dog Need Minerals The issue with over-processed food is that it often becomes nutrient deplete during the process, and so, synthetic nutrients are added back in – makes a little more sense to offer them in their whole-food form in the first place doesn’t it? In addition, food is only as useful as its constituents; it all needs to be digested. Dogs have evolved on a whole-food diet for thousands of years, so their digestive system has figured out how to deal with it. It also makes sense to feed the system something it knows how to work its magic on doesn’t it? Why Dry Food Is Not Good For Your Pets What Is The Best Kind Of Pet Food 3) Using Toxic Chemicals in Your Home and Garden Every day, ours and our pet’s bodies are exposed to toxins. They are produced internally in the body, like lactic acid, and consist of waste products from gut microbes, hormones, and neurotransmitters. But the largest threat is possibly those external toxins, like air pollution, chemicals from cleaning products and volatile organic compounds from the plug-in air diffuser in your lounge. It is thought that in the 25 years between 1970 and 1995, the volume of synthetic organic chemicals produced tripled from about 50 million tonnes to approximately 150 million tons, and this number has grown year on year since. Findings Here Data way back in 2008 reported that dogs have perfluorochemicals in their systems 2.4 times higher than humans, and cats have fire retardant particles in their systems 23.4 times higher than humans. We can only imagine how this has panned out over recent years. The Environmental Working Group found that dogs and cats are contaminated with 48 out of 70 industrial chemicals found in plastics, food packaging, heavy metals, fire retardants and stain-proofing chemicals. In dogs, the findings established: Contamination with 11 carcinogens Contamination with 31 chemicals toxic to reproductive health Contamination with 23 neurotoxins Exposure included: Dog food bag coatings House dust Stain-proofed furniture Medications/pesticides Dog beds Carpets Plastic toys Shampoos Findings Here Check out our other blogs on how to avoid this and also ways to help! Does My Pet Need To Detox Is Your Toxic Home Affecting Your Pet 4) Overuse of Medications Whilst medications are lifesaving, there are often cases of overuse. Antibiotics are commonly inappropriately prescribed which can have long lasting effects on the health of your dog’s gut. Broad-spectrum antibiotics are exactly that – they take all the bugs (both the bad and the good). There is also the increasing concern around antibiotic resistance; this is when a microbe becomes more or fully resistant to antimicrobials which could previously treat it. For this reason, the EMA “is promoting the prudent use of antimicrobials in animals.” Source NSAIDs are also increasingly overused. During the inflammatory response, certain enzymes catalyse the production of compounds which cause pain, redness, and heat. NSAIDs work by blocking the activity of these enzymes and so inhibit the response. But these same enzymes, like many in the body don’t just carry out that role. They are also protective of the stomach mucosa for example, which means when you take out that enzyme, you also take out a layer of mucosal protection! This is why chronic
Being the most common clinical condition in adult dogs, periodontal disease raises the flag on why dental care is so important in optimal canine health. Sadly, here at My Pet Nutritionist, we see it, a lot. Periodontal disease begins when bacteria in the dog’s mouth forms to create a substance called plaque. The plaque sits on the surface of the teeth and with the help of saliva, it hardens to form tartar. Not only does it sit on the teeth, plaque and tartar seeps into gum lines which causes inflammation. Over a period of time, this inflammation and presence of bacteria causes damage to the structures surrounding the teeth; causing receding gum lines and eventually tooth loss. These bacteria can also travel to other parts of the body, causing a range of additional health concerns. So, let’s look at periodontal disease in more detail and what we can do to prevent it! But, before we get to the diseased mouth, let’s take a look at a healthy mouth. The Canine Mouth Puppies are born without teeth and they then develop 28 of them. They will shed these between 4-6 months of age as their 42 adult teeth erupt. A dog will possess: incisors canines premolars and molars Incisors are used for cutting food; dogs have 6 upper (maxilla) and 6 lower (mandible). Next come the canines, which are used to grab and tear food, there are 2 canines in the mandible and 2 in the maxilla. The premolars are used for chewing, tearing, and biting; there are 8 in both the mandible and maxilla. Finally, molars are used to crush food; dogs have 4 in the maxilla and in the mandible. Teeth in fact provide the first step of digestion, but over their lifetime and in consideration of genetics and poor hygiene, many dogs will lose most, or all of their teeth. Dental Disease From the moment a tooth erupts it is exposed to food, saliva, and bacteria. Periodontal disease occurs when there is a buildup of bacteria in the mouth, which forms plaque. Eventually,this hardens to form tartar. This can sit in the gum line causing inflammation, known as gingivitis. Left untreated, further harm occurs which results in periodontitis, where teeth fall out and damage can occur to the surrounding bone. Signs your dog has dental disease: Bad breath Pawing at his mouth Reluctance to eat Food or toys will have blood on them Smaller breeds are statistically more likely to suffer with periodontal disease, as are brachycephalic breeds. Their teeth are often closer together which means food and bacteria can more easily get stuck. But what is also interesting is that it is generally accepted that the inflammation and resulting tissue damage is due to an improperly regulated immune response to bacterial infection, and not solely from the bacterial pathogens themselves. This suggests that if your dog already has immune mediated health concerns, then they may be at a higher risk of dental disease. Findings here The point to make is that gingivitis is thought to be reversible, whereas periodontitis is not. Not only is the mouth and teeth a concern, but the bacteria found in the mouth of your dog can be released into the circulatory system, which then travels through the body. It has been found to damage cardiac tissue causing endocarditis (infection and inflammation in the heart). Studies have also shown that periodontal disease is linked to increased insulin resistance and kidney, and liver issues. Findings here All things considered, prevention is certainly better than cure, so what can we do? 1) Avoid ultra-processed refined foods Ultra-processed food is defined as any food that undergoes multiple processes like extrusion and milling. They may also contain added ingredients that are highly manipulated. Sadly, many dry based dog foods fall directly under this definition. In human Hunter-gatherer studies, it is demonstrated that cavities and gum disease were a rarity, and this remains in modern times; Aboriginals living a traditional lifestyle do not generally get dental disease until they adopt a Western diet. There are a number of reasons for this. The mouth, just like the gut contains its own microbiome. It is a community of microbes that maintain balance; the good guys can keep the bad guys in check. Not only do ultra-processed foods skew the balance in the mouth, but they do also the same in the remainder of the digestive tract. As we know, the gut houses much immune tissue, and so it does in fact train the immune response. As we mentioned early, it is thought that much of the damage originating in the mouth is due to an improperly regulated immune response and not solely the bacterial pathogens themselves. For this reason, we would advocate the removal of an ultra-processed diet for oral and gut microbiome health. For more information on the microbiome in your dog, check out our blog here. 2) Dental Sticks There are a number of chews on the market promoting oral health, but it is actually the mechanism of chewing that helps to reduce build up. Chewing stimulates saliva which produces anti-bacterial agents, helping to keep the mouth clean. Not only this but the abrasion that occurs during chewing helps to scrape deposits off the teeth. What type of chew is best? Here’s what the data suggests: Raw bones reduced mouth bacteria by 79% Daily brushing reduced it by 70% and, Marketed dental chews reduced it by 54-60%. Findings here Raw bones lead the way in reducing bacteria,and the added bonus? You know exactly what you are feeding. There is no long list of ingredients to consider. If you are opting for raw bones, ensure they are a manageable size for your dog; chicken necks and wings are a great place to start if you’ve never fed them before! If you’d learn to learn more about the benefits of chewing for your dog, check out our blog here. 3) Diet It is thought that periodontal disease may be related to
Not only is diet important to your pet’s health but also their dental hygiene is essential. Poor dental care and disease is also linked to a higher rate of heart disease. Many owners leave it until it’s a problem. Let’s look at prevention instead shall we? Dry food isn’t something that pet’s naturally graze on with grating action. They nominally chew or crunch the dry food and down the hatch it goes. Once chewed and wet, it’s like any other food, it collects around the teeth and contributes to plaque build-up that leads to hardened tartar. Dental problems and issues are within the top 10 complaints seen by vets in 2019 but here at MPN we have some great tips to help prevent this from happening. Raw feeding (although for some is controversial) boasts great dental hygiene and whiter, cleaner teeth. Feeding bones is also a socially and mental stimulation that namely dogs require. The bare bones of it! My Pet Nutritionist have a strong working relationship with veterinarians but have to tread carefully on how we approach dental care as many vets are ardently against feeding raw bones unless they lean towards raw feeding and holistic care. Bones are perfectly fine but there are hard and fast rules and we would always recommend monitoring at all times (as a duty of care). Vets see mostly dogs coming in with fractured teeth and raw bone due to a lack of knowledge. Both are serious and expensive so please read on. Do not feed cooked or smoked bones. They are dry, hard and would most likely splinter due to indigestible materials. Raw chicken bones are nutritious but can be awkward to consume and they are too soft to warrant cleaning. It’s the grating and consistent gnawing action that tends to clean the gums and teeth, alongside the natural enzyme action, helping to destroy bacteria in the mouth. Medium sized animals such as lamb and goat are probably the most effective and safest bones to serve your dog and ones I generally recommend. If the prey is hard for the dog (or cat) to tackle naturally, then the bones will be too large and hard for your pet to gnaw in reality. Larger animals and bones such as beef are too hard and will more than likely cause dental fractures (think beef knuckle) if left to chew for too long and without supervision. We recommend avoiding beef, bull and bison. Raw dental bones are best fed as a treat approximately twice a week to keep teeth clean. It’s important to note that recreational bones are not to be completely consumed and that any bone should always be fed under supervision. Other options Oral chews have been shown to be beneficial, of course the type is important. plain meat chews, braids and non hides can he very useful. Avoiding dental chews such as dental sticks are highly advised due to poor ingredients. Findings here There are certain supplements on the market and one of which is based on a seaweed that does have a couple of randomised clinical studies to show it helps with the build-up of plaque. The seaweed is called ‘Ascophyllum Nodosum’ and the well-known and registered food supplement product for dogs is called Plaque Off. As part of a regime I have found this useful but great care must be taken with cats as hyperthyroidism can be expressed when taking anything with a high iodine content. This can be added to food or simply added to a homemade treat. Keep sugar containing foods (this includes dry food) to a minimum and even fresh foods naturally containing sugars should be given with care. We are not keen on companies who dehydrate fruits and vegetables such as pumpkin, carrots and papaya and sell them as dental chews. These are highly concentrated sugar chews and for gnawing action aren’t recommended for good oral hygiene, rather an odd treat. Brushing teeth doesn’t have to happen if you feed the correct raw food and bones but generally we need to consider keeping up with a good regime. Brushing teeth with a natural toothpaste and bamboo toothbrush is preferable. Alternatively, you can use a tooth cleaner and the polish from Lintbells. Make sure you don’t use human grade toothpaste with sweeteners added such as xylitol. This is dangerous to dogs. Please remember disease is complicated and our services offer an 8 elements approach to health, looking at nutrition, genetics and the environment. A complex jigsaw to piece together but one we are fully acquainted with and have great success! We look forward to helping you in the future. MPN Team x
