Naturally, many pet parents come to us, here at My Pet Nutritionist, having received abnormal blood and urine test results. Abnormal readings in our pets’ results, whether high or low, can be extremely worrying for many of us humans; one of the conditions shown through an abnormally low blood test result, is Hypoglycaemia. This blog looks at what it is, how to spot it, what causes it, what the vet may offer, and how you can support the body through diet and therapeutic supplements. What is Hypoglycaemia? If we break down the word ‘hypoglycaemia’ into three parts, we know what this condition entails. ‘Hypo’ means ‘under’ or ‘less’, ‘Glyc’ relates to ‘glucose’ (a monosaccharide carbohydrate; a type of sugar that can be used for energy but must be consumed for it to be present in the body. It is stored as Glycogen), and ‘aemia’ related to ‘blood’. Hypoglycaemia is a metabolic condition diagnosed when your pet has low blood sugar, or low blood glucose readings to be precise! In healthy dogs, the blood glucose level should be between 3.3 and 6.1mmol/L. If your pet’s blood results come back having a blood glucose concentration lower than 3.3mmol/L, your pet has hypoglycaemia, and requires medical attention, and may benefit in many cases from a diet change. Which we will discuss later in this blog. As glucose is one of the main sources of energy, a lack of it can affect various organs in the body, including the brain! Findings Here Symptoms of Hypoglycaemia There are a range of symptoms associated with hypoglycaemia in cats and dogs. If you see any of these symptoms in your pet, seek veterinary assistance as soon as possible! Symptoms you may see include: Reduced appetite Fatigue and lethargy Excessive water consumption (polydipsia) Excessive urination (polyuria) Reduced coordination, and slow response times Rear end weakness, or complete loss of use Seizure activity, including mild tremors, involuntary twitching, and full seizures Neurologically associated symptoms listed above, and reduced willingness to move or exercise are often the earliest signs of hypoglycaemia. Causes of Hypoglycaemia So what could cause your pet to get low blood glucose concentration readings? There are two categories we need to look at here – physiological reasons, and pathological reasons. Let’s start with physiological reasons why your pet’s blood glucose levels may be low: Overworking/extreme exercise. This is often referred to as ‘hunting dog hypoglycaemia’, and happens mostly in dogs as opposed to cats, but can happen in cats too! Overworked pets will use all available glucose for energy, then reserves of glucose in the body are diminished, causing the aforementioned symptoms. These dogs often have inadequate glycogen stores for the amount of work they are asked to do. Malnutrition. Now, malnutrition can be many things – It can be a lack of appropriate diet, the lack of enough food/calories, or even excess portions/calories. In the case of hypoglycaemia, pets with an inadequate dietary consumption of glucose end up with depleted glycogen stores as they use these for energy. Small Stature/Anorexia. Young smaller breed puppies, or juvenile toy breed dogs can be at a greater risk of hypoglycaemia. In cats, anorexia is a possible cause of hypoglycaemia. This is because they have limited muscle mass and body fat, meaning glycogen stores are limited, and blood glucose is used up very quickly. Toxicity. Whether it’s toxicity associated with medications/drugs, consumption of xylitol, or other toxic substances, in some cases in both dogs and cats, hypersecretion of insulin occurs, which lowers blood glucose levels. Similarly, if a diabetic pet has been given two doses of insulin too close together, hypoglycaemia may occur. Extreme vomiting. This is one of the most common reasons a cat may have low blood glucose concentrations, but is possible in dogs too. As the pet vomits excessively, blood glucose is used, and ultimately this causes depletion of glycogen stores in the body. Findings Here Findings Here Moving onto pathological causes of hypoglycaemia in pets, there are many endocrine and hepatic diseases associated with low blood glucose concentration in pets. Let’s take a look at these: Diabetes. This is one of the most common causes of hypoglycaemia in both cats and dogs. When the body produces too much insulin, or the pet is given too much insulin in the event of a hyperglycaemic attack, glucose production is decreased, and hypoglycaemia occurs. You can read more about diabetes in dogs here. Severe hepatic disease. Whether your pat has hepatitis, cirrhosis of the liver, neoplasia or any other liver disease, hypoglycaemia is a risk. The liver plays a role in glucose storage, in the form of glycogen – this is called hepatic gluconeogenesis. When the liver is diseased, it is unable to perform this function, leading to low glycogen storage, and therefore, low blood glucose concentration. Both cats and dogs can fall victim to these issues. Portosystemic Shunt. This also causes hepatic gluconeogenesis to decrease, as the vein transporting blood to and from the intestines and heart, bypasses the liver. This is seen more commonly in dogs than cats. Hypoadrenocorticism (Addison’s Disease). This disease is associated with the endocrine system. The counter regulatory hormone, Cortisol, plays a huge role in keeping glucose levels stable in the bloodstream, however in cases of Hypoadrenocorticism, when the adrenal gland which releases cortisol is unable to do so, glucose production is inhibited. This can happen in both cats and dogs. Hypopituitarism. Another endocrine condition, this time affecting the pituitary gland, and it’s ability to release relevant hormones. When the gland is unable to produce and release other counter-regulatory hormones, this time being Growth Hormone and adrenocorticotropic hormone, the glycogen stores are diminished as glucose production is slower than the rate it is being used at. Both cats and dogs can be at risk of this pathway. Islet Cell Hyperplasia and Insulinoma. These are two conditions related to the excessive secretion of insulin. Insulin in high amounts makes the body use excessive amounts of glucose, which lowers the blood glucose concentration. These
If there’s one thing us dog owners and carers see and handle a lot, its poop! It comes in all different colours, shapes, sizes and textures, but do you know if your dog’s poop is ‘good’, or ‘bad’? At My Pet Nutritionist, we often hear from panicked pet parents regarding their pet’s faeces, and if it looks how it should! This handy guide looks at everything ‘dog poop’, including some troubleshooting tips along the way! Pooh Colours When it comes to colour, dog pooh can vary massively! Different colours can indicate different things, so let’s have a look at common dog pooh colours, and what they might mean! Brown is typically associated with poop. Brown can come in any shade, from very light brown, to very dark brown. Brown is a very ‘normal’ colour for faeces. If you feed fresh food, you may notice your dog’s pooh is darker on darker proteins such as lamb, duck or beef, and lighter, almost cream in colour, on lighter proteins like turkey, chicken or white fish. White pooh is commonly seen for two reasons. If it is an older pooh which has been laying around in the garden, it may be simply that it has dried out or been ‘sun bleached’ – especially if your dog is raw fed. If your dog is producing fresh white coloured pooh, and is raw fed, this can be a sign that your dog is not tolerating bone well. In these instances, you may need to switch to a cooked food using one of our recipes, or look at using a bone substitute. Mixed coloured pooh is a common occurrence in fresh fed dogs, and sends a lot of pet owners into panic-mode! Mixed coloured pooh when feeding a fresh food diet is completely normal! You may observe light and dark brown parts withing your dog’s faeces, which is due to your dog having eaten a variety of different proteins. If your dog has eaten a mixture of light and dark proteins in the last day or so, it’s likely their poop will be multi-coloured! Black pooh is something we don’t want to see, particularly if it is loose in texture too! Tarry stools are caused by the presence of Melena (blood) in the faeces, which can be secondary to a number of digestive issues, parasite burdens, liver or kidney disease/cancer. Black, but solid stools can also denote health concerns such as internal bleeding. Some supplements may darken the stool to an almost-black colour, including some soil based probiotic blends. Yellow/orange stools can also be of concern for your dog. Yellow or orange pooh is often soft in texture, and can be due to a number of health conditions. Those suffering with campylobacter often have yellow faeces. Another common reason a dog may have yellow or orange faeces is an issue with the liver, or bile production. Some intolerances present with yellow or orange pooh too, so an elimination diet may be useful. If your dog has yellow or orange stools, further investigation is required by your veterinarian. Pooh Textures Our dogs’ pooh comes in many textures, from so solid it crumbles, to completely watery. Each different pooh formation tells a different story, so it is important to learn what each type means! When your dog’s poop is extremely hard and/or crumbly, it is often shaped in multiple small pieces, and quite often white in colour. ‘Crumbly’ can also be described as the poop turning to dust upon landing on the ground, or when being picked up. Poops like this, are not desirable! These poops show the digestive tract is unable to cope with the recommended amount of bone in a fresh food diet, or that there is too much bone in the fresh diet you are feeding. If this is the case for your dog, you may need to dilute the bone content in the food you are feeding, by replacing 20g of the complete diet per 10kg bodyweight, with the same amount of boneless mince. Some owners prefer to switch to a bone alternative if their dog struggles to digest the bone content of balanced meals, to ensure they’re still getting the calcium they need, but in a form the dog tolerates better. You may also need to give a gut support supplement such as our supplement, Gut Guardian, which you can purchase here! Additional fibre may also be required in the diet. A hard but not crumbly poop is what we are aiming for! The pooh should be a log-like shape, and should be firm to touch (with a poop bag, of course!), but should not easily break apart. This is a great sign that your dog’s digestive tract is functioning well, and their diet is suiting them perfectly! Keep up with the good stuff! Sometimes you may spot a formed, but soft poop laying around, reminding you of the typical cartoon dog poop! These tend to be produced by those on a higher carbohydrate, more processed food (though not all dogs fed these diets will have this type of pooh!), or by a dog with a little digestive upset, be it an intolerance, or gut damage. A small parasitic burden could also result in this type of faeces. In this instance, you may wish to run a wormcount (order a kit from a reputable company, send off your sample, and await results) to check for intestinal parasites, look at running an elimination diet if your dog is already on fresh food, add in some gut support, some more fibre, and perhaps some extra bone. If your dog is fed a dry. Processed diet, switch to a fresh food diet. If you are unable to feed fresh, switching to a food with higher meat content, or a high quality wet food may help you out! If your dog produces a soft and unformed pooh, this should be investigated as it is a clear sign of some digestive upset, or lack of tolerance for
Omega oils are one of the most important components of your pet’s diet, but with such variety of products on the market, aimed both at animals and humans, how do we know which to opt for? Here at My Pet Nutritionist, we recommend a variety of different products from various different brands, and for many different reasons! This blog past aims to help you choose the right omega source for your pets, and explains how to tell one product from the next! What Are Omegas? Omegas are Fatty Acids with a huge variety of uses within the body. Cell membranes are partly formed by Omegas, which deems them an essential nutrient for all living beings. Brain and heart health are both aided by omegas, as well as weight management and cognitive development during puppyhood, and as seniors. Omegas also control part of the body’s inflammatory response, making them useful for joint health, as well as aiding the management of, prevention of, or treatment of many health conditions. Omega Fatty Acids come in three types: Omega 3 and Omega 6 fatty acids are both classed as ‘essential’ nutrients Omega 9 is classed as non-essential but is beneficial to include in the diet So how do the three types of omegas differ chemically? Each different type of omega has not only a different chemical structure, but they have a different amount of saturation of fat. Let’s take a look at their differences a bit more closely. Omega 3 Fatty Acids are ‘polyunsaturated’, which means there is more than one unsaturated carbon bond. In a diagram of chemical structure, you will see two or more ‘double bonds’ between carbon atoms, with a hydrogen atom missing. These polyunsaturated fatty acids cannot be produced by the body, and must be consumed in the diet. Omega 6 Fatty Acids are also ‘polyunsaturated’, however two of the Omega 6 Fatty Acids are able to be produced by the body, leaving the third needing to be consumed in the diet. Omega 9 Fatty Acids are ‘monounsaturated’, which means there is only one unsaturated carbon bond. In a diagram of chemical structure, you would see only one ‘double bond’ with no hydrogen attached to the carbon atoms. These fatty acids can be produced by the body, which makes them non-essential in the diet. We mentioned that some omegas play a role in the body’s inflammatory response, so let’s discuss which ones are inflammatory, and which are anti-inflammatory. Omegas 3 and 9 have some fantastic anti-inflammatory effects on the body, which aids joint health, and is also a contributor to the reduced risk of cancers. There is also one Omega 6 fatty acid which is anti-inflammatory. The names and health roles of these anti-inflammatory Omega 3, 6 and 9 Fatty Acids are as follows: Eicosapentaenoic Acid (EPA): Omega 3 Fatty Acid playing a role in general reduction in inflammation. Alpha-linolenic Acid (ALA): Omega 3 Fatty Acid playing a role in heart and immune health. Docosahexaenoic Acid (DHA): Omega 3 Fatty Acid playing a role in brain health and cognitive development. Gamma-linolenic Acid (GLA): Omega 6 Fatty Acid aiding the control of hormones. Oleic Acid (OA): Omega 9 Fatty Acid plays a large role in prevention of cancer and heart disease, and reduction of cholesterol. The other Omega 6 Fatty Acids are inflammatory, which negate the omega 3, and vice versa. It is very much a balancing act of omega 3 and 6 consumption, to receive the benefits of omega 6, but keep inflammation to a minimum. Linolenic Acid (LA): Omega 6 Fatty Acid which helps to prevent heart disease, keep a regular heartbeat, and potential to prevent blood clots. Arachidonic Acid (ARA): Omega 6 Fatty Acid which as an important signalling molecule, plays a huge role in the mediation of many cellular functions such as remodelling actin, a extremely important protein in some cells in the body, useful for protein-protein interactions. Findings Here Findings Here Findings Here Sources of Omega Where can we find these all important Omegas in order to add them into our pet’s diets? There are so many sources of Omegas, some good, some not so advisable. They are found in many forms, from fresh foods, to extracted oils which come in capsules, or in a large bottle, usually with a pump. There are meat based sources of omegas, and there are plant based sources of omegas. Some of the most popular sources of each type of Omega 3, 6 or 9 Fatty Acid we have discussed so far in this blog post, are: Eicosapentaenoic Acid (EPA): found in fatty fish and fish oils, as well as many algal oils. Alpha-linolenic Acid (ALA): found in flaxseed oil, chia seeds, walnut oil, perilla oil or oysters. Docosahexaenoic Acid (DHA): found in fatty fish , fish oils and algae oils, and eggs. Gamma-linolenic Acid (GLA): found in Hempseed oil, borage oil (to be given with caution, in small quantities only), and evening primrose oil (to be given with caution, and not to be given to epileptic pets) Linolenic Acid (LA): found in sunflower oil, some nuts, seeds, olive oil, flaxseed, avocado oil (though the amount here is low) and eggs. Arachidonic Acid (ARA): found in meat and poultry, particularly farmed. Oleic Acid (OA): found in olive oil, some fish oils, and some nuts. What to Look Out For When it comes to picking an omega source for our pets, as with anything, most of us want to make an informed decision to pick the absolute best for our furry friends! With such huge variety of Omega products on the market, how to we know what is best? How is one product different to another? As with many dietary additions, there are many qualities to look out for or avoid in different products. Not all products are equal in quality, so that’s where we come in handy – keep reading for pointers on selecting a source of omegas for your pets! Fresh Food Sources As with most things we
In our previous blog post, we wrote about exposure to environmental hazards in the home, garden, and local parks. Environmental hazards are around us the vast majority of the time, and not only in the home, garden, or on local open green spaces, but at beaches, around lakes, and in woodland areas too. How can we keep our pets safe from these environmental hazards? Read on in this blog post to find out what the potential hazards are, and how we can keep our furry family members safe! Around Lakes, Ponds and Streams Starting with water bodies – whether your pet is exposed to lakes, ponds or streams, there is potential for exposure to hazards! Blue-Green Algae More and more pet owners are becoming aware of blue-green algae blooms; but why should we avoid them? How do they form? Blue-green algae, also often referred to as Cyanobacteria, is a type of gram-negative bacteria, which presents much like an algae, which is why it’d informally known as blue-green algae. It forms in blooms, much like algal blooms, in lakes and ponds – usually still bodies of water. Conditions for the bacteria to thrive will differ from water body to water body, which is why it’s not present in every lake or pond you may come across. Contributing factors to it’s growth include water clarity, temperature, availability of sunlight, and availability of sufficient nutrients for bacterial growth. Typically, blue-green algae is seen between the months of May and September, as these months are when the conditions are generally suitable for bacterial growth. When walking near still bodies of water, you should look out for a discolouration to the water itself – the colour can range anywhere from neon green, to pea green, to blueish green, to a rusty reddish brown colour (not to be confused with the rusty coloured streams often seen in parts of the UK, which are caused by iron contamination, and a different type of bacteria), and the smell given off is quite unique; it often smells like pungent rotting food; certainly not a pleasant smell! Blooms of blue-green algae can be highly toxic to both humans and animals, due to toxins found in the bacteria. There is a variety of possible health problems that can come from blue-algae poisoning, ranging from mild to severe, such as: Rashes on the skin Nausea and vomiting Downward dog position (denoting abdominal pain) Diarrhoea High temperature Liver damage Kidney damage Neurological damage How do we avoid the risks associated with blue-green algae? When you are walking near still bodies of water, particularly in the aforementioned months, it is wise to keep your dog on a lead, at least until you have fully checked the water for contamination, or discolouration. If you suspect there is a bloom in the area you;re walking in, ensure your pet (and any human children!) keeps well away from it. Do not let them drink from the water body, nor swim in it. Some councils do put up signage in places where there are frequent blooms of cyanobacteria, but it is important not to rely on these! There is an application for mobile phones called “Bloomin’ Algae”, which is well worth downloading, as it shows reports of algal blooms. Sewerage Leaks and Other Contaminants Another risk of lakes and other water bodies, is sadly, and rather disgustingly, sewerage leaks and chemical contamination. It happens more than we care to imagine, and is pretty self explanatory. When sewers leak in to streams, toxic waste is transported down stream, and into any larger water bodies the stream leads to. With regard to chemical contamination, every now and then, you may hear of such an event on your local news, whereby a company or individual has disposed of toxic waste into a stream, whether by accident or on purpose. Depending on the spillage and type of contaminant, a host of health risks are present, from skin rashes, to vomiting and diarrhoea, to potential poisoning and internal organ damage. How can we avoid these areas? It can be tricky to tell if the stream you may be walking near has been contaminated, so it’s wise to keep an eye and ear open on local news channels, in newspapers, and on local community social media groups. Some water companies will map out sewerage and other contamination points, and their potential direction of travel, and display this on their websites and/or social media. Some may also offer an alert system for local residents to sign up to – this is worth investigating and signing up to any facilities for your area. Avoid walking in or near these places. Water Intoxication An example of an often overlooked environmental hazard your dog could be exposed to is water toxicity. Now, unlike the other hazards around lakes, ponds and streams, water toxicity doesn’t involve any contamination, and can happen even in the cleanest of water bodies! So what is water intoxication, if there is nothing toxic in the water? When a dog consumes too much water in a short amount of time, it can lead to water intoxication, scientifically known as hyponatremia. During play time in lakes and ponds, dogs can take in a huge amount of water, especially when retrieving items. When a dog takes in too much water in a short amount of time, the body loses sodium, which in turn causes cells to fill with water, and swell. Cells swelling throughout the body, but especially in the brain, can be fatal. Symptoms of water intoxication include: Vomiting Difficulty breathing Lethargy Glazed eyes Lack of coordination Excessive salivation Seizure activity Bloating Loss of consciousness What can we do to avoid water intoxication? It may seem pretty self explanatory, but in order to reduce the risk of water being ingested too fast, we must be careful with how we interact with our dogs when they are enjoying the use of ponds and lakes. Try to avoid throwing items for them to catch or retrieve –
Here at My Pet Nutritionist, we understand the importance of keeping your pets healthy. As we often write about, keeping the gut healthy and feeding a fresh balanced diet are two steps toward a full picture of health. The world around us is sadly a very toxic place, with us and our pets being surrounded by environmental hazards at nearly all times! How can we avoid this exposure? What can we do to negate the potential effects of environmental toxins and hazards? This bumper two-part blog post will look at a host of potential dangers in a variety of environments you may frequent regularly with your pets in tow, how you can reduce exposure to these, and what we can do to help the body cope with it’s environment. Part 1 looks at hazards in the home, garden, and local parklands. Click here for Part 2, which will look at hazards in and around lakes, woodlands, and beaches. Domestic Environment The first of our areas of exposure to environmental hazards, is the place you and your pets probably spend most of your time; at home, or even in other people’s homes, cafes, and shops. All the indoors places. Your pet may be exposed to a huge variety of environmental hazards when inside, so let’s take a look at some of these. Cleaning Products Take a look at the cleaning products you use in your home. You may have floor cleaners, bleach, surface cleaners, laundry detergent, laundry softener, laundry scent boosters, carpet cleaners, stain removal products, window cleaning sprays, dishwasher tablets; the list goes on! When you think about every cleaning product used in your home, you can really begin to see how exposed your pet might be to them! Every surface they touch, the air they breathe – it all contributes to exposure. Now, take a look at the ingredients label on each product. Can you easily identify each ingredient? Are there some long, science-y looking words you haven’t heard of before? It’s quite likely! Next have a look at the warning label; what warnings does the product come with? Irritation to skin or eyes, hazard to health, hazardous to the environment, corrosive, acute toxicity; these are all common warnings on household cleaning products! Some of the more worrying ingredients often used in cleaning products are: Ammonia Chlorine Bleach Isopropyl Alcohol Formaldehyde Pine But my bottle says ‘pet friendly’… sadly, the ‘pet friendly’ qualities of a product, merely mean that the product won’t kill your pet if used correctly. Just because a product is pet friendly, doesn’t mean that exposure to it can cause some health issues in pets, including most commonly, skin issues, and sometimes breathing issues too. Conventional cleaning products can cause so many problems in pets through exposure by touching, inhaling or ingesting, including: Burns to the skin, throat or gastrointestinal system Dry skin, rashes and itching Interdigital cysts Lethargy Vomiting and diarrhoea Seizures/neurological abnormalities Stomach ulcers Your dog or cat may breathe in particles of sprays, lick flooring or textiles, lick their fur or paws after contact with cleaning chemicals, have direct contact with chemicals by walking through the house or laying on furnishings etc. What can we do to reduce exposure to these products? Lots! You can make lots of excellent switches in your home, to more natural products, without the risk of nasty side affects if ingested, inhaled, or touched. Some handy ideas are as follows: Provilan Probiotic Cleaning Products from Ingenious Probiotics (in the UK – other suppliers may be available) are a fantastic range of natural cleaning products, with the added bonus of good bacteria in the form of probiotics. The bacteria outcompetes/eats the bad bacteria in the area being cleaned, and is completely unharmful for pets! No only are they safe, but they’re beneficial too! Baking soda (bicarbonate of soda) mixed with water can be used to scrub places like toilets, sinks, ovens etc White vinegar or apple cider vinegar mixed with water can be great for cleaning hard surfaces, and soft furnishings. Home Fragrance Home fragrance is a big, but important topic when it comes to hazardous exposure to our pets! We all want out homes to smell nice – walking in your front door to be hit with a beautiful fragrance of apple, geranium, freesia, or whatever you most prefer is just the loveliest thing… however; is it doing the health our pets any favours (or us for that matter!)? It may not be! The vast majority of scents in the home, whether it’s through the burning of candles, plug in diffusers, reed diffusers, or room sprays, contain VOCs – Volatile Organic Compounds. These VOCs can be quite a hazard to the health of us and our pets, not to mention the behavioural side of it for our fluffy dependants! Health risks of VOCs include: Eye, nose and throat irritation Headaches Loss of coordination Nausea Potential damage to the liver Potential damage to the kidneys Potential neurological damage Cancer (some, not all, VOCs are known to be carcinogenic) Birth defects Fertility issues How can we have a nice smelling home, without the VOC risks? First, ditch the diffusers, plug ins, candles and room sprays! Here’s some handy hints and tips to help your home smell nice, without the risks: Vacuum daily Invest in a good air purifying unit, appropriate to the size of the area you want it to cover. Pop a pan of water on the stove. Add in your favourite natural scent providing materials, such as cinnamon sticks, orange peel, lemon peel, cloves, star anise, lavender, thyme, or whatever fresh ingredients really take your fancy! Heat it and keep it on a low simmer – it will fill the room with a beautiful, custom made scent! You can even pop some of the boiled, scented water in a spray bottle, and spray it in other rooms! Chat to a qualified naturopath with knowledge on suitable essential oils for your pets – these must be self-selected by
If you’re reading this blog post, it’s quite likely that you have just become, or will soon become a puppy parent, owner, guardian, or whatever you prefer to go by! Getting a puppy can be both exciting and scary – the dog world is such a minefield when it comes to information on general health and wellbeing. To set our pups up for a life of health, we need to be super careful what we feed them! Here at My Pet Nutritionist, we bring you this blog post, where you will find out what is best to feed your new, or future addition! Dietary Requirements for Puppies Puppies require different nutrients for different functions; providing too much, or too little of some nutrients can have a detrimental effect on health, so let’s take a look at nutrients, what theyre for, and the risks of a deficiency, or over consumption of each one. Protein Proteins are macronutrients, and are the building blocks of the body! They’re formed by complex chains of amino acids, of which some are essential (which cannot be made by the body, so must be consumed in the diet), and others are non-essential (which can be made by a healthy body). Proteins make up everything from the fur, claws, immune system, hormones and many more components of the body. While the body doesn’t care where the amino acids come from, we should aim to pick good quality, amino acid rich sources for our dogs – these are found in best quality in beef, chicken, pork and lamb. Sources of inferior, poor quality amino acids include wheat and rice, which we recommend avoiding completely. Proteins build the body and aid repair as they are in a constant state of renewal and degradation. If your puppy consumes too much protein, it may be used as an energy source, but if there is still too much present, it will just be excreted safely through the faeces. If there is a deficiency of protein in your puppy’s diet, your puppy may experience reduced growth rates, anorexia, anaemia, alopecia, infertility, dull coat and brittle fur. Puppies require higher amounts of protein than adult dogs because of their need for growth of new tissues, however this does not mean that owners can safely over-feed their puppies! A small amount of excess protein can be safely excreted, but too much, and excessive weight gain, and rapid growth rates can occur, especially in larger breeds – this is terrible for joints, and can lead to major issues imminently, or further down the line! Fat Fat is another macronutrient, and is super important in a canine diet. They are used as the primary source of energy, of stored in the Adipose tissue for use as an energy source later. Fats are also essential for temperature control, as they insulate the body, as well as acting as a cushion form trauma to major organs. Fats can be saturated, mono-unsaturated, or poly-unsaturated. If you’re into the sciencey side of things, a saturated fat has no double bonds between carbon atoms in its chemical make up, mono-unsaturated fats have one double bond between two carbon atoms in its chemical make up, and poly-unsaturated fats have more than one double bond between carbon atoms in its chemical make up. Dogs have a requirement for two important families of essential fatty acids – omega 3, and omega 6. Omega 3 fatty acids have incredible anti-inflammatory properties, whereas omega 6 can be inflammatory. The modern day canine consumes far more omega 6 than needed in their normal diet and day to day life, so it’s super important to get those omega 3s in the diet, including things like raw egg, raw sprats, raw salmon, tinned sardines, algal oils, fish oils etc. Omega 3 is useful for healthy skin formation, healthy joints during growth, the transportation of fat-soluble vitamins, and modulation of the immune system. As omega 3 is also very important for healthy cognitive function, it’s especially important in puppies! Omega 3 deficiency has also been proven to be linked with aggression in dogs! Findings Here Findings Here Carbohydrates The third of our macronutrients, carbohydrates, come in two types, available, and unavailable. Available carbohydrates are those used for energy. They are digested through the small intestine. The metabolism of these carbohydrates provides glucose for brain function. As there’s only so much storage available for these carbohydrates, over consumption may lead to increased body fat. Unavailable cabrohydrates cannot be digested by dogs, such as soluble and insoluble fibre. Insoluble fibres can aid good bowel health, and keep stools bulky and firm, whereas soluble fibre does the opposite, and helps stools pass easily as it draws water to them. There is no literature available to prove this macronutrients are essential for dogs. Vitamins A, D, E and K These are micronutrients, and are fat-soluble vitamins, meaning they’re transported through the body in fat molecules. Vitamin A is essential for eye and bone health, and can be found in great quantities in eggs, oily fish, carrot, broccoli, and cantaloupe melon. Vitamin D is a hormone that promotes calcium absorption, so play a role in bone health, as well as immune function and cell growth and development. Vitamin D can only be acquired through the diet for dogs, unlike us humans who can get it from the sun. sources include salmon, egg, sardines, liver and mushrooms. Vitamin E is an antioxodiant which protects cells from oxidative stress (damage). Sources include sunflower seeds, wheatgrass, spinach, red bell pepper and pumpkin. Vitamin K contains K1, K2 and K3 – these are all categorised as quinones. These are essential for blood and bone health and development. Vitamin K1 can be found in leafy greens and beef liver, K2 is synthesised by bacteria in the large intestine, and K3 is a common synthetic vitamin. Vitamins B and C Now we move onto the water-soluble vitamins; the vitamins that are transported in water molecules around the body. Vitamin B vitamins have
Those with female dogs will most likely deal with seasons at some point in their dog’s earlier years – the recommended time for spaying is between 2 and 4 years of age, unless medically necessary prior to this age. With seasons, comes the risk of phantom pregnancy! This can be quite a trying time for both us and our perfect pooches, so we bring to you, the My Pet Nutritionist guide to phantom pregnancies in dogs! What is a Phantom Pregnancy, When, and Why Do They Happen? Phantom pregnancy in dogs is fairly common other terms you may see are ‘false pregnancy’ or ‘psuedopregnancy’. Phantom pregnancy is a term used to describe behavioural and physiological tendencies similar to those displayed in a pregnant female dog, even though the dog experiencing these changes is not pregnant. They can occur at any age, following an oestrus cycle (commonly known as a ‘season’ or ‘heat’) in an unspayed female. When your dog has a phantom pregnancy following their season, she may have another after the next season, but this isn’t definite – they can occur after every season, or just intermittently. We’ve covered the what and the when, but now onto the why! At the end of your dog’s season, her ovaries begin to produce the hormones necessary for preparing the uterus for implantation of foetuses and pregnancy maintenance. Now, if your dog has been mated, and is pregnant, these hormones are very important, and well utilised. The problem arises when your dog is not pregnant, so these hormones are not required. It takes around 4 to 6 weeks for these hormones to reduce, and for symptoms to reduce, if the dog displays behaviours as if she were pregnant. When these hormones are present without a pregnancy, changes in the body occur, which show as actions mimicking pregnancy. As the dog gets closer to the 4 to 6 weeks after the end of the season, as the levels of hormones start to reduce, false labour is stimulated, alongside mammary gland swelling. Findings Here Symptoms of a Phantom Pregnancy There are a variety of symptoms of a phantom pregnancy in dogs, such as: Enlarged mammary glands (teats); milk may be present Clingy behaviour Lethargy and fatigue Fluid retention Potential vomiting Loss of appetite Nesting Pacing Carrying and guarding toys Symptoms will vary between individuals, as well as severity of symptoms. Findings Here Findings Here Conventional Treatments In severe or extreme cases of phantom pregnancy, your dog may require veterinary attention, where they may be given a hormone treatment. This treatment stops the production of pregnancy hormones, which heavily reduces symptoms, and stops milk production. Findings Here Supplements to Help Your Dog There are a few supplements that could help your dog through her phantom pregnancy. Let’s take a look at these! There’s also one frequently recommended, which we do not recommend, so we will look deeper into why! Homeopathy is a very popular choice when it comes to those in phantom pregnancy. If you choose to use homeopathy, speak to a homeopath or supplier of remedies. The commonly given options for a phantom pregnancy are Pulsatilla and Urtica. Other remedies may also be advised for mood if the dog is in a low mood. Dogs struggling with behavioural effects of phantom pregnancy, who are just not themselves, may require some calming supplements like Scullcap and Valerian. Another supplement that can help in the event of a phantom pregnancy by aiding in the regulation of hormones, is Borage/Starflower oil. This does come with a caveat though – it must be used with caution, and in small amounts as it can cause liver damage, and may also be carcinogenic. This is due to the content of chemicals known as pyrrolizidine alkaloids. Findings Here Findings Here Vitamin B is a great supplement for those in phantom pregnancy, specifically B6, as it helps regress phantom pregnancies in dogs. Magnesium is an essential mineral for our dogs, and it is great to increase in those with phantom pregnancy, as it encourages all round health within the body, keeping all systems running smoothly, and normally. Finally, Theanine helps control arousal levels in mammals. Keeping the arousal levels in check is important in a female with phantom pregnancy, so as to reduce symptoms and keep hormone levels steady. Evening Primrose Oil – Why Should You Avoid It? We mentioned that one popular supplement isn’t one we would recommend – this supplement is Evening Primrose Oil. It can certainly help a bitch in phantom, but why don’t we recommend it? Evening primrose oil is lower in the omega GLA than Borage oil, meaning it has less of an anti inflammatory effect. This isn’t the biggest problem with evening primrose oil though! The main issue is concerning Prostaglandins; a group of fats which have hormone-like effects in mammals. Prostaglandins stimulate the uterine muscles to shed the lining of the uterus which in turn causes increased pain and worsened associated symptoms. Evening primrose oil is what’s known as ‘oestrogenic’ – meaning it promotes oestrus, and makes symptoms more harsh. Evening Primrose Oil also poses a risk to potential epilepsy patients, as it can trigger seizures, so as a precaution, we recommend avoiding it’s use. Findings Here Other Tips to Help Your Dog As well as offering appropriate supplements to your dog, there are some other things you can do to help them through a phantom pregnancy. Lets have a look at some of these: Firstly, your dog will likely be feeling a little unusual, and sorry for herself. Her body is going through some big changes at this time, so the need for more attention and TLC is common. It is so important to be there for her – it can be a bit overwhelming with your dog clinging to you more than normal, but try to stay calm, and give her plenty of love and extra attention to comfort her. Another behavioural aid during this time, possibly one of the most important
In the modern dog world, there are so many controversies over various food items, from salmon oil to raw eggs to coconut oil to garlic. Here at My Pet Nutritionist, we like to put owners minds at ease, and help you to evaluate whether it is suitable for your pets, using both scientific and anecdotal evidence based on our professional experience. Salmon oil, raw eggs and coconut oil have all been covered within our blog to date, so now it’s time to have garlic in the spotlight! Let’s discover some myths, and truths about this powerful, often useful ingredient! What Is Garlic? This may seem a bit of an obvious section to many, but you may learn something new too! Garlic (Latin name: Allium sativum), is the bulb of a flowering plant, and is a potent addition to foods in the human world, for flavour as well as medicine. It’s closest relatives are onions, leeks, shallots and chives. Humans have consumed garlic since the times of Ancient Egypt. Originating from south and central Asia, and Iran, the vast majority of the world’s garlic production occurs in China. The chemical make up of garlic gives it it’s many beneficial uses in both the human and dog world, however there are caveats when it comes to garlic and dogs! Allicin, ajoene and polysulfides are among the most powerful sulfur containing compounds, alongside lots of useful enzymes, flavonoids (often useful as antioxidants), and saponins (which have great cancer risk reducing properties, as well as being great for lowering blood fat and blood glucose levels. Findings Here Findings Here The Controversy Around Garlic As dog owners, we only want the best for our precious pooches! And that’s where the confusion sets in – safe? Unsafe? My vet said it’s toxic! Someone on an online dog forum said it’s toxic, but another said its ok? The stigma around garlic really is huge! Some professionals will advise against it through no fault of their own – it’s often simply what is taught to them during their education. The controversy all stems from one specific study on garlic, and it’s affects on dogs. Afterall, it’s relatives onion and leek are very much toxic to our pets, so why should garlic be ok when it contains the same active ingredient, allicin? As well as allicin, members of the allium family also contain Thiosulfate. Thiosulfate, in large quantities, can cause a severe type of anaemia in cats and dogs, called Heinz Body Anaemia. If we look at onions vs garlic, we can compare the amount of thiosulfate, and therefore calculate the risk of Heinz Body Anaemia. Onions contain large quantities of Thiosulfate, whereas garlic only contains miniscule amounts, which plays very little to no risk in healthy individuals, and studies were began to work out just how much garlic is safe for our pet dogs. Findings Here So, moving on to the study. The nutrition world was taken by a storm in 2000 when Dr Osamu Yamamoto released a study called ‘Haemolytic Changes Associated with the Appearance of Eccentrocytes After Intragastric Administration of Garlic Extract to Dogs’. You can find the study here. Now, the first point to make, just from looking at the title; garlic ‘extract’ was used. Have you ever baked a cake, using Vanilla Extract? You may notice the extract is extremely concentrated, making it extremely pungent, requiring just a few drips to flavour the entire cake batter! This concept goes for any extract, including that of garlic. The garlic was administered to the dogs in the study in extract form – 1.2mls of this liquid was given to each dog per day for 7 days – likely the equivalent to much more than one would consider giving their dog of anything! More on equivalent amounts shortly. When looking at the health of the dogs in the study, it’s important to note that there was a death rate of 0% – that’s right, a big fat ZERO! No dogs died in the study, nor were there any physical changes to the dogs. When blood tests were analysed under a microscope, despite the lack of symptoms, there was a case of Heinz Body Anaemia. This was the evidence which caused the scientists to make the rather bold statement, that garlic is unsafe for dogs, sending the pet world into panic! Some of the large pet information databases and websites are still under the assumption that garlic is very much toxic to dogs, warning owners to avoid it. Pet food manufacturers were forced to remove garlic from their recipes once this information was released, but further studies were needed to ascertain whether fresh garlic would be safe, since the aforementioned study used the ultra concentrated garlic extract. Let’s take a deeper look at exactly how fresh garlic tolerance levels differ to that of concentrated garlic extract! What Science Has to Say About It As with many preliminary scientific studies, mass panic had set in, opening up opportunities to research the tolerance level of fresh garlic in dogs, after all in unsuitable quantities, anything can be classed as toxic – even water, and we all know water is incredibly important for all living things! When converting the amount of garlic extract that would need to be administered to a medium sized dog for adverse reactions to occur, to the equivalent amount of fresh garlic, the dog would need to consume 35 cloves of garlic every day (or 245 cloves per week!) – not something any owner would dream of doing, we are very sure! Now for the next study by Dr Osamu Yamamoto, titled ‘Acceleration of Superoxide Generation in Polymorphonuclear Leukocytes and Inhibition of Platelet Aggregation by Alk(en)yl Thiosulfates Derived from Onion and Garlic in Dogs and Humans’, published in 2004. This study can be found here. In this study, they used a fresher form of garlic to carry out their investigation, which ultimately found that garlic was in fact good for cardiovascular health, and useful for a
In this blog post, we will look in depth at a popular supplement; salmon oil. Salmon oil does come with it’s controversies among the dog community, so here at My Pet Nutritionist, we bring to you this blog, to help you understand more about salmon oil – what it is, it’s pros and cons, and how to pick a product – not all salmon oil products are equal! What Is Salmon Oil, and How is it Extracted? Salmon is a known as an ‘oily fish’. Oily fish are very high in fatty acids, more specifically Omega 3 Fatty Acids. There are various types of omega 3, but salmon oil is high in two types: Eicosapentaenoic Acid (EPA): reduces inflammation Docosahexaenoic Acid (DHA): aids cognitive health and development The body is unable to produce Omega 3 Fatty Acids, as they are polyunsaturated, so adding omega 3 to our pets’ diets is extremely important. Salmon oil is literally, the oil extracted from fresh salmon, as it’s name suggests. How is it harvested though? One may envision a salmon fillet being squeezed, however this isn’t quite how salmon oil is extracted! There are a few methods for salmon oil extraction. Most traditionally, oily fish is subject to temperatures of between 90oC and 100oC, which releases the molecules of oil to be collected. Another traditional method is through the use of organic solvents and hydrolysis. Organic solvents can be very damaging to the environment, and potentially pose as a health risk too. More recently, enzymatic hydrolysis was found to result in high yields of fish oil and can be carried out at much lower temperatures of 40oC to 65oC. A study published in 2022 found that a new technology using an immobilised enzyme called Alcalase, crosslinked with a polymer known as Chitosan which coats magnetic nanoparticles, is effective at rapidly splitting amino groups from proteins. This method is bioavailable, biodegradable, safe for consumption, and economically beneficial, with the added bonus that the Alcalase enzyme can be reused. The study proved that the oil harvested using this method was of a higher quality than oil extracted through other methods, and the oil was less prone to oxidation. Findings Here Findings Here Then we can move onto our cold pressed salmon oil – something some brands state on their packaging. Cold pressed salmon oil is extracted from fresh fish through means of mechanical force and low heat. The longevity of oil extracted this way is thought to be shorter than using Alcalase, as it can be much more prone to oxidation – we will talk more about oxidation later in this blog post. Cold pressing produces a very low yield, but a high quality oil. Findings Here Benefits of Salmon Oil There are both benefits, and disadvantages to using salmon oil for your pet. Let’s discuss the benefits first, before we move on to the disadvantages. Omega 3 is an incredibly important nutrient to add to your pet’s diet, as we mentioned earlier in this blog post! The anti-inflammatory effect is essential for everything from heart health to cognitive ability and health, to eye health, recovery and prevention from injury, skin health and more. The natural meat based diet of our dogs and cats can be naturally high in omega 6, especially when using meat from farmed sources. Two types of omega 6 (Linolenic Acid (LA) and Arachidonic Acid (ARA)) are inflammatory. Inflammation in the body is bad news – we want to balance this inflammation out or eradicate it completely by adding healthy sources of the anti-inflammatory Omega 3 into the diet. Salmon oil can massively benefit your pet’s brain health, and reduce general inflammation in the body which could be causing anything from itching to heart disease to pancreatitis. Sources of DHA are particularly important for puppies, kittens, and seniors too, as cognitive health and development is most important at these ages. The anti inflammatory properties of salmon oil are also greatly beneficial to pets requiring additional joint support. Findings Here Skin and eye health are also greatly benefited through the use of high quality fish oils and other omega sources. This is once again, linked back to the anti-inflammatory properties of such supplements. Findings Here Human based studies show that salmon oil supplementation can lower the amount of triglycerides in the blood, and increase the level of HDL Cholesterol. As with most things, these studies can be a great backbone for care of our pets too! Triglycerides are ‘bad’ fats which can be linked to heart disease, so reducing these in the blood is essential, and can help to protect the heart. HDL Cholesterol is the ‘good’ stuff, helping also to protect the heart. Findings Here While we are on the topic of blood and how the consumption of EPA and DHA rich supplements like salmon oil can improve it, we can look at blood flow rates. Findings Here As we just mentioned, blood flow can be improved through supplementing the diet with salmon oil, or other sources of DHA and EPA. This can help fertility in those wishing to breed too! The testicular blood flow of a dog has been shown to dramatically improve when given these supplements, which in turn improves semen quality and testosterone levels. Furthermore, for the owners of female pets among us who are pregnant, feeding high quality sources of DHA and EPA can improve fetal development and ultimately lead to healthier litters. Findings Here Findings Here Some animal based studies suggest that supplementation with salmon oil can help in weight maintenance, as the body is ‘satisfied’ with the fat consumption, leaving it unable to accumulate excess body fat. Findings Here Finally, salmon oil is high in Vitamin D. Around 75% of dogs are deficient in Vitamin D, which is essential for regulation of phosphorus and calcium in the body, and in turn keeping bones, muscles and teeth healthy. While offal is a great source of Vitamin D, it doesn’t contain quite enough to meet the required
Internal parasitic burdens can be quite worrisome for pet parents – they can affect both our pets, and us humans too, so they’re certainly something to be one step ahead of! Here at My pet Nutritionist, we aim to put your mind at ease, and to help you fully understand the ins and outs of parasites, giving you lots of options to help prevent and control infestations. You can read part 1 here! Welcome to part 2 – Internal Parasites When looking at internal parasites, there are various parts of the body targeted, which we need to look at, including the intestines, (where you can find nematodes, cestodes and protozoa), the lungs, and the heart. Some of these parasites can be life threatening, so it’s important to understand symptoms, prevention, and treatment options. Intestinal Parasites Intestinal parasites are usually referred to by pet owners, as ‘worms’. While some are worms, not all intestinal parasites are worms, nor are all worms equal! Nematodes differ from Cestodes, which differ from Protozoa, so we will delve deeper into each type here in this blog post. Nematodes Nematodes are from the phyla Nematoda, and are your typical worm – they usually look similar to your garden earth worms (though are not actually related!); long and thin, with a squashable texture, and tapered ends. This, of course, is a generalisation, and there are various physical and mechanical differences between the different parasitic nematodes. Here’s the strange thing about nematodes – they can be harmless, and actually beneficial, or they can be parasitic – it’s a very broad phyla! Beneficial nematodes are often used as a means of environmental flea, tick and ant control. These are sold online or from some environmental/gardening shops, and are mixed with water before being sprayed onto the affected area. The microscopic nematodes, now sprayed all over the area, target, and eat the larvae of their target species, which controls pest population! Anyway, getting back to the parasitic kind! Let’s take a look at the intestinal nematodes pet owners may face during their time with pets. Roundworms (Toxocara canis and Toxicaris leonina) Roundworms, also known as Ascarid worms, are very easy to identify in their matured form. If a pet has a burden of these worms, which have matured from their larval stage, they will be very obviously present in the animal’s faeces, or vomit. They are white in colour, usually long (between 4 and 6 inches), thin, and curly – they are often expelled from the body in spirals. The main method of transmission of roundworm to our pets, is through coming into contact with contaminated faeces. Those carrying roundworm, shed microscopic eggs into their faeces, leaving others to come into contact with it. Some insects and other animals, including cockroaches, earthworms, and birds can also carry roundworm eggs, which if eaten by your pet, can pass onto, and mature inside your pet. Puppies can also be born with roundworms, and shed live eggs in their faeces. A question owners often ask, is if they can catch roundworms from their pets – and the answer is yes! Accidental oral contact with your pets faeces can pass roundworms on to you, if your pet is carrying roundworm eggs. Symptoms you may see if your dog has a mature roundworm burden include: Diarrhoea Vomiting Changes to skin and coat Weight loss Bloated appearance to the stomach Visible worms in faeces and/or vomit If your dog has recently contracted roundworm, and it is still in it’s larval stage, it’s unlikely there will be many symptoms, apart from perhaps some loose stools. Findings Here Hookworms (Uncinaria stenocephala and Ancylostoma caninum) The next intestinal nematodes we will look at are Hookworms. As per their name, matured hookworms look like very small, but not microscopic, hooks. They are very thin, no longer than 2cm long, and are white in colour. They can be seen in faeces when they’re matured, but can be confused with undigested food particles, or even small pieces of string. In order to stay inside the intestine, where they are fed and housed in those infected, they have small mouthparts which latch onto the intestine walls where they feed directly from blood vessels surrounding the intestine. There are a few methods of transmission for hookworms in pets – pets can contract them through their mother’s milk as puppies or via the placenta before birth, and they can be orally ingested, or even be contracted through the skin. Hookworm larvae can lay dormant, and reactivate during pregnancy too, so it’s important to run regular faecal samples during pregnancy. Can hookworms transmit to humans? Yes, and no. Larvae can be transmitted in unsanitary conditions, but are rarely transmitted as adults. There is one exception to this however! This may make you shudder, but matured Hookworms can work their way into the human body through the skin, most commonly through bare feet in unsanitary conditions where pets have shed larvae in their faeces. While Hookworm infestations aren’t generally life threatening, they can cause anaemia if left untreated – this is more common in young animals than in adults though. Some symptoms you may notice if your pet has Hookworms include: ‘downward dog’ position in dogs (showing gastrointestinal discomfort) Diarrhoea Vomiting Bloodied stools (due to blood loss when Hookworms detach from the gut lining, as they inject anticoagulants into the localised feeding area) Changes to skin and coat Anaemia, especially in young animals Physical development impairments in young pets Small string like worms visible in faeces Coughing in severe cases If your dog has Hookworms in their larval stage, you may see diarrhoea, but may not see other symptoms, as eggs are microscopic. Findings Here Findings Here Whipworms (Trichuris vulpis) Whipworms, the third nematode sometimes found in our pets, get their name from their shape, much like the other nematodes discussed in this article. If you think of a whip, carried by movie heroes like Indiana Jones, and reduce it’s size to 0.5-5cm – you’ll have
Parasites are always a worry with our pets – let’s face it, our pets touch all sorts on the ground during their walks, sniffing sessions, and play time! It’s inevitable that they come into contact with faeces, urine, slugs, snails and so much more, giving many opportunities for parasites to be picked up, both internally and externally. Here at My Pet Nutritionist we want to help you understand more about parasites, how we can test for them, and how we can help the body rid of them. This is a bumper two part blog, providing you with all the need-to-know information regarding parasites! You can read Part 2 here! Welcome to part 1 – External Parasites Fleas Fleas can be identified as tiny black insects, moving in a hopping form. They jump and crawl around your dog, using a long feeding tube to suck blood from under your dog’s skin. they are very much visible to the naked eye, and another sign of fleas being present, is the dirt they leave behind – this can be identified as black matter in patches across the skin of the dog, at the base of hair follicles. Fleas can be picked up out on walks, or from communal dog establishments when in contact with another dog with fleas, or wildlife with fleas. There are different types of fleas, which target different animal species, some live happily on dogs and cats too, but others can only survive on their intended species, for example hedgehog fleas can only survive on hedgehogs. Cat fleas and dog fleas are the ones most commonly seen in pet households. They can also bite their humans too! If flea infestations are left for too long, the pet can become anaemic (particularly common in puppies), and also suffer with hair loss. Later in this blog post, we will discuss the dangers of using isoxazolines (chewable pest treatments) and spot-on treatments for our pets. Sometimes severe infestations do require one of these products to get them under control, as well as professional house exterminators, but we recommend avoiding these products unless it is as a last resort. Naturally, you can help prevent fleas through the use of selected essential oils (take extra caution with cats when using EOs) and neem oil on the pet, and feeding fresh garlic to dogs (though avoid feeding garlic to puppies under 6 months, and any Japanese breed as these are susceptible to allicin poisoning), as well as another herbal flea prevention supplement. There are many natural topical and internal products on the market, specifically for their target species, whether that’s cat or dog, so using these in a layered approach may give you the best chance of staying flea free! If your pet was to get some fleas, rubbing a thick layer of shampoo onto their dry coat, and leaving for 10 minutes before rinsing out using a comb can really help control the infestation. You can also purchase electric flea-zapping combs which can have great results! In severe cases, food grade diatomaceous earth could be sprinkled onto the coat, however this is extremely drying on the skin, and can be lethal if inhaled. You will also need to focus on steam cleaning your soft furnishings, carpets etc, and clean the house regularly, making extra sure to clean any small, potentially moist nooks and crannies, and wicker items as fleas seem to love these areas! Findings Here Findings Here Ticks Ticks get a really bad reputation – and for good reason, especially in some countries outside of the UK. Ticks can be identified as having a bulbous body, with very small head, and 8 legs, protruding from the head area. When they’re attached to your pet’s skin, you will be able to see the large rounded body (the larger the body, the more the tick has fed), with some legs seen very close to the skin. Ticks need to be removed as soon as possible, as they can carry a range of diseases – anything from Lyme disease (which is the most common tick bourne disease in the UK, though isn’t very common I itself) to disease leading to Alfa Gal Syndrome in humans, and paralysis in the host in other countries. They really can be nasty little creatures! To remove a tick, simply grab a tick removal tool and follow the basic instructions. They’re usually fail safe, and easy to use. If by chance, you do get the head stuck in the pet, these usually work their way out in time. To transmit Lymes Disease, ticks have to be attached for 36-48 hours, however some species of ticks carrying more sinister diseases in countries outside the UK can transmit disease quicker, so it’s super important to check your pets twice a day, and after every walk. You can read more about types of ticks, tick removal, and tick prevention in our blog dedicated to ticks here! Mites Mites come in various forms. The most common ones we see, are Mange (of which there are two types), harvest mites, and ear mites. Let’s take a look at some of these. Mange Mange presents as large areas of hair loss and scabbing. In severe cases, dogs can become completely bald. To test for mange, your veterinarian will take a skin scrape – a sample of the skin’s microbiome, which is analysed under a microscope for mite activity. Each type of mite is a different shape, so the type of mite can easily be diagnosed. Sarcoptic mange is often referred to as Scabies. Sarcoptic mange mites tend to live on the skin’s surface, and tend to be contagious. Ivermectin is the treatment often prescribed by veterinarians to battle sarcoptic mange, however there are some potential complication to using this, which we will discuss later in this blog. Some medicated, anti-seborrheic shampoos, are often used too. There are some natural options that may work in helping fight sarcoptic mange mites, including neem oil, turmeric, and some select essential
The humble blueberry; small, sweet, juicy … and incredibly beneficial! Here at My Pet Nutritionist, we are big fans of feeding fresh, and adding beneficial, fresh ingredients to the dinner bowl. Blueberries are one of those tiny powerhouses we often recommend adding to your pet’s bowl. Find out all about the brilliant blueberry, and all it has to offer in this blog post. The Blueberry – Nutrition Let’s take a look at the nutrition, appearance, and texture of the blueberry. Blueberries are small, dark blue-purple coloured, round berries. They are very juicy, as they’re 85% water! The skin is soft, smooth and digestible, with a little crown on the top, where a stalk would have once attached them to the plant. They are quite sweet to taste, however some can be a little tart – generally speaking, the smaller the blueberry, the more tart it is, so if your dog prefers the sweeter fruits, aim for the larger berries! As well as being super high in moisture, blueberries are a great source of dietary fibre compared to other berries, high in Vitamin C, high in Vitamin K, and high in both Potassium and Manganese. Blueberries are 9% carbohydrates in the form of naturally occurring sugars, so it’s important to feed in moderation. All in all, the blueberry is a relatively low calorie fruit choice, with added benefits, which we will discuss next! What Benefits Does the Blueberry Bring? There are many health benefits to feeding blueberries – these go for us humans too, so why not share them with your dog?! Fantastic Antioxidants The biggest benefit to feeding blueberries, is their incredibly powerful antioxidant complex! Blueberries are one of the best antioxidant foods. To understand a little more about antioxidants, and why they’re important, we need to learn about Free Radicals. Free Radicals are unstable molecules found in the body – if you want the nitty gritty science stuff, a free radical is an atom, molecule or ion which has an unpaired electron in it’s orbital. Due to the lack of a paired electron, the molecule becomes extremely unstable and volatile, which in turn has major negative effects on the body. Free radicals cause damage to healthy cells through oxidisation, which leads to cancer, premature ageing and can be linked to many other diseases within the body. Now you know a bit about free radicals, you can probably see why it’s important to rid the body of them. This is the job of antioxidants! Findings Here Findings Here The term ‘antioxidants’ is actually quite broad. There are various types of antioxidants, but the one most prominent in blueberries, giving them their awesome properties, is the ‘flavonoid’ family. When looking at flavonoids in blueberries, we can be even more specific! The group of flavonoids in blueberries is the ‘anthocyanins’. Studies show that consumption of wild blueberries directly increases antioxidant levels in the body! Findings Here Findings Here Findings Here Anti-Aging and Anti-Cancer Properties Now we understand the general benefits of antioxidants, we can look at other parts of the body which need antioxidant action to stay healthy! Free radicals cause oxidative stress, which affects DNA health! Damaged DNA is bad news – this occurs naturally to nearly every cell in the body, all day, every day … it’s a part of ageing! Not only does DNA damage lead to general ageing, it also leaves the body more vulnerable to cancer. Here’s where our important antioxidants come in – we want to reduce the free radicals in the body, to reduce DNA damage, slow ageing, and reduce the risk of cancer. Findings Here Findings Here Heart Happy Berries – Cholesterol Protection Cholesterol in the body plays an important role, but high cholesterol, or oxidised low density lipoprotein (LDL) cholesterol can lead to heart disease. So how does protecting cholesterol help, when most of the body’s cholesterol is the ‘bad’ LDL type? Well, protecting it from damage makes it less of a risk! As oxidised LDL cholesterol is what leads to heart disease, and free radicals are what causes the oxidisation, providing a good quality antioxidant reduces the risk of damaged LDL cholesterol, and in turn reduces the risk of heart disease. Findings Here Findings Here While there is not many studies into the heart failure rate in dogs, with data on the reduction of heart attacks in those being fed anthocyanins, there is a human based study with quite staggering results! Study participants with a higher intake of anthocyanins had a 32% reduced risk of heart attacks! Cognitive Function You may have seen other My Pet Nutritionist articles regarding cognitive function, and the importance of omega 3 in the diet to aid this by reducing inflammation on the brain. This is incredibly important, however the destruction of free radicals is also incredibly important for brain health and cognitive function. As all cells in the body are affected by free radicals, and subsequent oxidation, brain cells are no exception! Different parts of the brain have different uses. Antioxidants tend to have the greatest affect in the health of areas associated with intelligence, and also act on ageing neurons, which causes greater general brain function as individuals age. Some studies show an improved memory too! Findings Here Findings Here Findings Here Findings Here Muscle Recovery and Function The final part of the body commonly affected by oxidative stress through damage by free radicals, is the musculoskeletal system, specifically the muscles. During, and after strenuous exercise (for example after a long walk, or dog sport like agility or flyball), oxidative stress occurs in the muscles due to inflammation. This is how muscular soreness happens. Reducing oxidation of the muscular cells may help to reduce muscle fatigue, and stiffness post exercise. This is an area which still needs further research, and more studies, but one studies so far show positive data, supporting antioxidants being useful for muscle recovery post exercise! Findings Here Findings Here Findings Here Reduced Risk of Diabetes Those who own a dog
