Here at My Pet Nutritionist, we know how important your pet’s diet is, and how their diet can have a huge effect on their health and longevity. As part of their balanced diet, there are many vital macronutrients and micronutrients required in the correct quantities to ensure optimum health. One of the essential micronutrients required in the diet of both dogs and cats, is Choline; but why is it so important? Read on to find out! What is choline? Choline is an essential micronutrient; however it is neither a mineral nor a vitamin! It is a water soluble organic compound. Essential nutrients are nutrients the target species MUST consume within their diet. These nutrients are needed by the body, but the body cannot produce enough; meaning the diet needs to include them. As nutritional science has evolved over the years, move and more essential nutrients have been discovered. Choline is one of the newest discoveries in the nutrition world, being recognised as an essential micronutrient only since 1998 by the Institute of Medicine! When reading literature, you may find Choline is grouped with B Vitamins due to its similar functions within the body. Another important nutrient is Betaine, which is a metabolite of Choline. When Choline is metabolised, Betaine is formed, which has many health benefits such as protecting cells from osmotic stress (keeping cells perfectly hydrated, and stopping them from shrinking or swelling), and acting as a methyl donor, which plays a vital role in liver health, and is heavily involved in other major internal systems. Findings Here Findings Here Why is Choline Important? Choline, as an essential nutrient, is extremely important. It plays a huge role in many systems within the body from cells to metabolism, to DNA, to the nervous system. Let’s take a closer look at the roles it plays in the body: Cell Membranes: Choline is largely responsible for supporting the integrity of cell membranes, due to its ability to create the necessary fats to keep cell structure strong. Cell messengers: there are a number of compounds that act as cell messengers – passing signals between cells to allow them to ‘communicate’. Choline helps to produce these compounds. DNA Synthesis: like Vitamins B9 (Folate) and B12 (Cobalamin), Choline is involved in the synthesis of DNA. DNA is the body’s genetic code, so it is incredibly important to keep it healthy. Metabolism and transport of fat and cholesterol: this mainly improves the health of the liver. Choline helps to remove cholesterol from an individual’s liver by producing the responsible substance. If your pet is deficient in Choline, fat and cholesterol can build up in the liver, which would dampen it’s functionality. Benefits the nervous system: when Choline combines with an acetyl group, a reaction occurs using an enzyme called choline acetyltransferase as the catalyst. The result of this reaction is the production of Acetylcholine – an important neurotransmitter. Acetylcholine plays a major role in many aspects of health including muscle movement, memory/cognitive alertness and heartbeat regulation. Essential for healthy pancreas: studies show that a deficiency in Choline can be linked to pancreatitis. These studies suggest that supplementation with Choline can protect pancreatic cells, and reduce the risk of pancreatitis flares. One of the main pancreatic issues in those lacking a sufficient amount of Choline, is disruption to the exocrine system. Methylation: probably one of the most important roles of Choline in the body is Methylation. Methylation is incredibly important as it is the process which creates the Myelin sheath; the protective layer coating nerves in the body. These nerves affect brain health, and general nervous system health throughout the body. Benefits during pregnancy: during pregnancy and foetal development, choline is extremely important as it aids cognitive development in the maturing foetus – this sets young puppies and kittens up for better cognitive function when born and ageing. Findings Here Findings Here Findings Here Findings Here How Much Choline Does My Pet Need? Cats and dogs require different amounts of choline – in fact every species has different requirements for almost every nutrient, so it’s important that we tailor our pet’s nutrition to suit their species. With that in mind, how much choline is required for cats, and how much for dogs? Studies suggest that adult cats require a minimum of 800mg of Choline per kilogram of FRESH food per day, and that there is no upper tolerable limit in cats. in terms of dry food matter, this is around 3500mg/kg. Kittens may require a little more than this recommendation. Dogs require a different amount of Choline in their diet to cats. Adult dogs require at least 474mg per kilogram of FRESH food in their diet per day. in terms of dry matter, this value is around 2500mg/kg. Our nutritionists recommend around 800mg per kg of fresh food! Puppies may require a little extra. Sources of Choline When it comes to looking at pet foods on the market, most will contain Choline – however the form the choline is given in, may affect it’s efficacy. Ultra processed foods, such as dry extruded foods, may not be the best source of Choline for your pet; during the manufacture of these foods, the whole food ingredients are subject to high temperatures and multiple processing techniques which can damage nutrient quality and bioavailability. These foods are often sprayed with synthetic vitamins at he end of manufacture in order to reach minimum guidelines. At My Pet Nutritionist, we advocate for a fresh diet, where nutrients are sought mainly through the fresh ingredients included in the recipe. Some fresh food ingredients, rich in Choline, include: Liver – 209mg per 50g Eggs (especially egg yolk!) – 147mg per egg Kidney – 105mg per 50g Cod – 74mg per 50g Beef – 70mg per 50g Pork – 43mg per 50g Poultry – 36mg per 50g Brussels Sprouts – 31mg per 50g Shiitake Mushrooms – 29.7mg per 50g Cauliflower – 22mg per 50g Broccoli – 16mg per 50g Salmon – 11mg per 50g Nuts
Here at My Pet Nutritionist, we use a combination of healthy diets tailored to your pet’s needs, alongside beneficial gut-friendly herbs, and nutraceuticals. These supplementary additions often come with hosts of benefits, when used in the correct way, for a specific purpose. We often get asked about the various herbs and nutraceuticals we recommend in various blog posts and in our recipes and supplements – you can learn more about some of these here! What Are Gut Healing Herbs? Herbs high in mucilage are often known as the ‘gut healing herbs’. These herbs are usually considered to be a source of prebiotics – food for probiotics; however these herbs have another very important function when it comes to gut health! Mucilage is a soluble dietary fibre, which produces a mucus-like substance which lines the gut wall. When the gut wall is lined with this slimy textured substance, it forms a protective barrier to reduce the risk of further gut damage, and allow the gut to heal. Inflammation is then reduced due to lack of irritation. Mucilage has a fantastic soothing effect on the digestive tract too – those with acid reflux, or having recovered from illnesses like kennel cough which may cause throat irritation may find a powdered form best, due to the soothing effect of the mucilage in these herbs. As an additional benefit of these popular gut healing herbs, the mucilage can increase digestive performance resulting in better stools; this is due to the mucilage adding bulk to the stool (reducing constipation), aiding water absorption, and increasing gut motility. Some studies also suggest that mucilage rich herbs may reduce the build up of cholesterol, and aid the regulation of blood sugar levels. Frequently used mucilage herbs include slippery elm, marshmallow root, and deglycyrrhizinated liquorice root – we will look closer at these later. Findings Here Findings Here What Are Nutraceuticals? Nutraceuticals are components of foods that bring benefit to health. You may often come across plant based supplements for pets; these are packed full of nutraceuticals! Functional foods are also classed as nutraceuticals. Many nutraceuticals enhance basic nutrition, whereas some provide medicinal properties. Some benefits of using carefully selected nutraceuticals include improved overall health, prevention of chronic disease, increased longevity and all round structural support for the body. The term ‘nutraceutical’ is a combination of the words ‘nutrition’ and ‘pharmaceutical’ – meaning they share the same properties as pharmaceuticals, but are acquired through nutrition Functional herbs, antioxidants, probiotics, vitamins and minerals are all examples of the categories most commonly encountered in the world of pet nutrition. We will delve into these categories in terms of nutraceuticals later. Findings Here Findings Here When Should We Use Gut Healing Herbs and Nutraceuticals? A question we often hear at My Pet Nutritionist, is “should we be giving any supplements?” – and our answer is always “if your pet could benefit from a carefully selected supplement, then absolutely!”. It is important not to needlessly add lots of different nutraceuticals and gut healing herbs to your dog’s diet, unless they require/could benefit from it. When it comes to giving mucilage herbs, these can be incredibly beneficial in situations where gut damage is apparent. Situations a mucilage herb may be beneficial include: Allergies: due to an immune malfunction Intolerances: due to gut damage or leaky gut syndrome Following vaccines, worm or flesa treatment: these products are very damaging on the gut, so gut healing may be necessary. Acid reflux: soothes the digestive tract and reduces the risk of acid reflux Upset stomach or constipation: these herbs help to rectify loose or solid stools when needed. Great to have in the first aid cupboard! When looking at nutraceuticals, we need to look at the symptoms your dog or cat is displaying, alongside gaining a diagnosis from your veterinarian. Some types of illnesses you may use nutraceuticals for include: Joint issues Skin issues Digestive issues Cognitive health issues (anxiety etc) Vision issues As brilliant as nutraceuticals can be as part of your pet’s health regime, many do come with some contraindications with pharmaceuticals your pet may need. Contraindications are negative interactions with drugs – these interactions can often cause downregulation of the drugs themselves, leaving your pet vulnerable to disease progression. An example of this is curcumin – the active compound in turmeric. It is fantastic for joint support/arthritis, cardiovascular function, reducing inflammation, eradicating free radicals, immune support, cognitive ability and cancer prevention. The reduction in pain in those who take curcumin is vast; however some individuals may require pain pharmaceutical pain relief for their condition. Curcumin is known to downregulate the effects of some pharmaceutical analgesics, as well as various other drugs. It is always best to check with your veterinarian before starting a new nutraceutical, if your pet is on pharmaceutical drugs. Findings Here Findings Here Popular Gut Healing Herbs The three most popular gut healing herbs can all be found inside our Gut Guardian supplement, along with probiotics and chamomile. Lets take a closer look at these mucilage herbs! Marshmallow Root: this is a sweet smelling and tasting herb derived from the Althaea officinalis plant. When combined with water, it immediately forms a thick, slimy substance due to it’s high mucilage content. Traditionally, marshmallow root is used in cases of digestive or respiratory issues, and also topically to soothe skin issues. As well as being high in mucilage, it also contains high amounts of antioxidants, anti-inflammatory properties, and antibacterial properties. slippery elm: like marshmallow root, slippery elm produces a slimy substance when combined with water. It originates from the inner bark of the slippery elm tree (Ulmus rubra), and is often used to treat digestive issues, and sore throats by lining the oesophagus. DGL (deglycyrrhizinated liquorice): this herb increases mucous production in the body, which helps line the stomach, reducing the risk of harm caused by acid. DGL is thought to have properties to treat ulcers too! Findings Here Findings Here Findings Here Popular Nutraceuticals There are many nutraceuticals used in the
Here at My Pet Nutritionist, we consult for a huge number of families with an enormous variety of health concerns in their pets. Once diagnosed by a veterinarian, our packages aim to support your pet with a more natural view. One of the conditions we are asked about a lot, is Hypophosphatemia. This is a condition that occurs in both dogs and cats, so this blog may be a handy read for both owners of cats and dogs. Hypophosphatemia is the clinical term for low phosphorous levels being present in the blood. This condition is far more common in dogs than it is in cats. Hypophosphatemia is associated with a host of other health conditions, and can cause a variety of health conditions in itself. Some of the conditions commonly caused by Hypophosphatemia include: Bone Diseases: Rickets is a bone disease often caused by low phosphorous levels, and is specifically a bone growth disease – it ultimately causes bone softening to occur, as well as deformities, especially in puppies and kittens! Another common bone disease caused by Hypophosphatemia is Osteomalacia which is a very similar bone softening disease, but found more commonly in adults. Muscle Weakness: muscles may become weaker, and the pet may become more physically unstable, and may appear slimmer with little muscle tone. Respiratory problems: in rare, severe cases, respiratory issues can occur as a result of low blood phosphorous. Heart Failure: another rare condition to come of low phosphorous levels, in the more severe cases. Seizures: again, while rare, seizures can occur as a direct result of severe Hypophosphatemia. Findings Here Findings Here Symptoms and Causes The clinical presentation of Hypophosphatemia changes depending on the severity of the deficiency in your pet. The trickier side of these symptoms, is that they are common in a variety of health issues, not just Hypophosphatemia! This can make diagnosis more difficult. If your pet has mild Hypophosphatemia, you can expect to see some of, or all of the following symptoms: Muscle weakness: a change in gait, difficulty climbing stairs, weakness when getting up from a bed or laying position, or difficulty standing for long periods. Reduced, or total loss of appetite: pets may have a reduced appetite, or stop eating all together. Lethargy: unwillingness to be active for usual periods of time. Pets may be less alert. Disorientation: leaning or wobbling when standing may occur Findings Here If your pet has severe Hypophosphatemia, you may see the above symptoms, as well as some of the following: Seizures: neurological activity can occur due to the lack of phosphorous in the blood. Ataxia: loss of coordination is another possible neurological symptom often seen in those with a severe deficiency of phosphorous in the blood. Constipation: this can occur due to paralysis of the intestines, meaning faecal matter cannot be pushed through the digestive system in order to be expelled. This condition is called Ileus. Irregular Heartbeat: arrythmias can be detected by your vet using a stethoscope. This is a symptom of severe blood phosphorous deficiency. Haemolytic anaemia and Haemolysis: abnormalities in red blood cell counts during bloodwork may show red blood cell destruction. These conditions are a symptom of severe Hypophosphatemia. Breathing difficulties: these often come hand in hand with heart conditions, and are a symptom of Hypophosphatemia. Findings Here When we look into the possible causes of Hypophosphatemia, there are a number of possible reasons for it’s onset. Let’s take a look at them: Dietary Deficiencies: if the pet’s diet is lacking in phosphorous, hypophosphatemia is a risk. This may be found in those fed a poor quality diet. Renal Disease: disease in the kidneys can cause hypophosphatemia through two pathways – increased excretion of phosphorous in urine, and reduced ability to reabsorb phosphorous in the kidneys. Hyperparathyroidism: when the parathyroid gland (which is involved in the calcium:phosphorous ratio) is overactive, phosphorous loss is increased. Cushing’s Disease (Hyperadrenocorticism): phosphorous imbalances are common in those with Cushing’s Disease. Fatty Liver Disease (Hepatic Lipidosis): this disease in cats is a contributor to phosphorous loss. Diabetic Ketoacidosis: severe phosphorous loss can be caused by this condition which occurs as a result of complications in diabetic animals. Poor Intestinal Absorption: in those with poor gut health, absorption of phosphorous in the gut can cause deficiencies. Phosphorous Redistribution: deficiencies in phosphorous occur when there is a shift from extracellular fluid (the blood) to intracellular fluid (the cells in the body) Specific Intravenous Therapies: some IV fluids can cause a reduction in phosphorous in the blood. Findings Here Findings Here Findings Here Diagnosis Diagnosis of Hypophosphatemia is a simple process. Your veterinarian will take a blood sample, and analyse it. The test is called a ‘Serum Phosphate Test’. Once this analysis is complete, your vet will inform you as to whether your pet’s phosphorous levels are within the ‘normal’ range of results. Findings Here Conventional Treatment When it comes to treatment your vet may offer, they will first and foremost look at underlying causes. Each individual cause will have a different treatment plan, so it is important to work with your vet on these. Depending on the severity of your pet’s Hypophosphatemia, phosphorous supplementation will be advised. More severe cases may have phosphorous supplementation intravenously, but most cases will be advised to give oral supplements. Some veterinarians will also advise on changing your pet’s diet to one with extra phosphorous. Frequent check ups will be carried out by your veterinary team to keep an eye on your pet’s blood phosphorous levels. Findings Here Findings Here A Natural Approach to Hypophosphatemia As always, our approach is often supported by veterinary care, so we tend to look at this as a complementary approach as opposed to alternative. Here are some of our considerations: Feed fresh: Poor dry food will most likely be lacking in various micronutrients despite its ‘complete and balanced’ label. Nutrient levels may be affected due to the numerous periods of exposure to high heat and the subsequent nutrient loss. Synthetic nutrients are often sprayed
Here at My Pet Nutritionist, we consult with dogs and cats with a huge variety of health concerns, from digestive problems to dental problems, and everything in between! One of the dental concerns we see, affects both cats and dogs – tooth resorption. It is estimated that around 60% of cats (pure-bred cats seem to suffer the most), and 40% of dogs will be affected by Tooth Resorption by the time they turn 6 years old! There are various layers to the tooth, starting from the outer surface to the very inside of the tooth, the layers are: Enamel: a thin, white, hard layer which protects the sensitive insides of the tooth Dentin: a tick, softer layer of tissues beneath the enamel, containing microscopic tubules which lead to the nerves in the tooth. Pulp chamber: the powerhouse of the tooth. The pulp creates dentin, and also provides the dentin with nutrients to keep it healthy. This chamber is commonly known as the ‘root canal’ as it extends to the root of the tooth. Cementum: a hard surface anchoring the tooth to the gum. The gum also has multiple layers. Starting from the outer surface visible to the eye to the inside of the gum, the layers are: Gingival Margin: this part keeps the teeth securely in place. Gingival Sulcus: attaches the gum to the tooth. Cemento Enamel Junction: the area where the tooth meets the gum. Periodontal Ligament: attaches the tooth to the jaw. Pets with Tooth Resorption suffer from erosion of their dentin, which ultimately becomes destroyed. This process cannot be reversed! Gradually, more and more of the tooth is affected, becoming destroyed, and appearing to absorb into the gum. Findings Here Findings Here There are many types of Tooth Resorption in both cats, and dogs. Types in cats Type 1: Normal density is maintained, and Periodontal Ligament is unchanged. Resorption is in the Cemento Enamel Junction. Destruction occurs toward the root, or in a side to side direction. Type 2: Narrowing at the Periodontal Ligament area, and the tooth root becomes as dense as the surrounding bone. Type 3: a combination of Types 1 and 2 – teeth also become multicoloured. Types in Dogs External Replacement Resorption: most common form in dogs. The ligament space and root of the tooth change dramatically. External Inflammatory Resorption: the tooth roots are very inflamed. External Cervical Root Surface Resorption: lesions are present around the Cemento enamel junction. External Surface Resorption: the very edges of the tooth root may show on x-rays to be slightly uneven. No other clinical symptoms show. Internal Inflammatory Resorption: oval shaped swellings grow in the root of the tooth. Often caused by dental disease. Internal Surface Resorption: oval shaped swellings form further up the tooth root. May be caused by trauma, but are extremely rare. Internal Replacement Resorption: incredibly rare in pets. Progressive condition. Tunnel-like areas form as a result of tooth root fractures. Findings Here Findings Here Symptoms and Causes Outward symptoms are rarely noticeable in most cases of tooth resorption, making diagnosis often difficult. As pet owners, we need to be really vigilant when it comes to oral health. Regular teeth cleaning is important; and as part of your regular husbandry regime, practicing touching your dog or cat’s tooth may be more important than you may think! One of the few signs that your pet may be suffering with tooth resorption, is pain when the tooth is touched. Other signs include: Increase in drooling Head shaking Reduction of appetite (due to pain when eating) Gingivitis/bleeding from the mouth Face rubbing Gagging Frequent sneezing In progressed cases, tooth fractures are possible – this is largely down to potential damage to the crown of the tooth due to loss of structural tissues. As a result of tooth resorption, your pet may suffer with oral infections – this is due to lesions forming on the tooth crown making the inner tooth accessible by bad bacteria. Very little is known about causes of tooth resorption. While many studies have been carried out, no specific cause has been pinpointed. During these studies, it was found that cells known as ‘odontoclasts’ are responsible for breaking down the hard tooth tissues. Findings Here Findings Here Diagnosis The process of diagnosis is usually simple when a dog shows signs of tooth resorption. Firstly , your veterinarian will discuss your dog’s symptoms, and run a physical examination of your dog’s mouth/teeth. Some veterinarians will run an additional examination under general anaesthetic to be able to get a more thorough look/feel of your dog’s teeth and gums. Next, they will take X-rays of your dog’s teeth. The X-rays will enable them to tell if your dog does have tooth resorption, and how severe the individual’s case is. Conventional Treatment Once your cat or dog has received their diagnoses of Tooth Resorption, treatment must be prompt due to this condition being particularly painful. The treatment offered by your veterinarian will depend on the type of resorption your pet has, and also the severity. Some pets may be referred to a veterinary dentist for treatment. In the event that the condition has progressed rapidly, or too far for the tooth to remain stable, the affected unstable tooth/teeth will be removed. This is a surgical procedure carried out under anaesthetic. In some cases, only part of a tooth is removed, if the veterinary dentist, or veterinary surgeon feels this is in the pet’s best interest. If your pet’s condition is not so advanced, and their teeth are still stable in the gum, treatment mostly involves frequent oral health check ups to check if any intervention is needed yet. Another treatment offered in select cases whereby the tooth is saveable, is root canal treatment. Again, this is a procedure carried out under anaesthetic. During root canal treatment, pulp is removed from the root canal, which is then cleaned, and filled with dental material. The aim of this treatment is to slow the progression of tooth resorption. As this
The pet food market is such a crowded place, and can feel like quite the minefield! With so many types of foods, different marketing strategies, complex looking labels and ingredients lists, it’s no wonder so many people come to us here at My Pet Nutritionist worrying about what to feed their dogs or cats! Of course, we always recommend fresh food, but some owners may be unable to for various reasons; all types of pet food have to follow the legal guidelines for labelling, so we are here to help you decipher pet food labels! What Is The Difference Between Complementary, And Complete? When looking at the many pet foods available, from dry kibble, to cold pressed, to freeze dried, airdried, wet or raw options, you may notice some will say ‘complete’ and others will be ‘complementary’. You can learn about the types of foods available on the market here. A ‘complete’ food will contain all the basic nutrition needed for its target species to survive on, whether that is through the use of synthetic micronutrients, or fresh sources of these nutrients. In terms of raw and fresh feeding, this will usually mean there are fruits and vegetables added to the raw meat, bone and offal, and usually an omega source too. If a dry food states this, there is usually some form of ‘added’ vitamins and minerals, often synthetically. Omega 3 is often lacking, even in ‘complete’ dry foods, as they are inherently inflammatory. A ‘complementary’ food, usually in the form of a premade 80-10-10 raw food, a pure meat wet food, or a ‘mixer biscuit’, means more ingredients are required to be added to make the diet complete, and provide nutrition required for an animal to thrive. Those feeding an ultra-processed diet including a ‘complementary’ dry option, will often be instructed to feed an accompanying wet food by the manufacturer. Those feeding a ‘complementary’ wet or raw food, will be encouraged to feed a mixture of fruits and vegetables alongside the food, and add in an omega source. Some ‘complementary’ wet foods also require additional calcium to be added.xx We have a fantastic blog post, all about balancing an 80-10-10 raw food, which you can read here. The Order of Ingredients on Labels The ingredients on dog food labels are ordered just the same as those on human food labels – the highest amount of any single ingredient in the food is the first on the list, whereas the last ingredient is that which occurs the least in the food. Some manufacturers put percentages of each ingredient, but this isn’t law, so many don’t. When a percentage is in brackets, it is as part of the ingredient it’s next to – so when a label states ‘meat and animal derivatives (chicken 4%)’ it means there’s 4% chicken, and the rest of the meat and animal derivatives are of unknown origin. Legally, dog food manufacturers do not need to declare what preservatives are used. Those who state ‘preservatives’ and ‘antioxidants’ will often use low quality, synthetic, often carcinogenic chemicals. How Much Meat Is In My Pet’s Food? Pet food labelling can be very misleading, and very clever in terms of informing the consumer of the meat content. Obviously with out obligate carnivore cats, and our facultative carnivorous dogs, meat is the most important part of the diet, so owners will often look at the flavour of a dog or cat food, and assume the main ingredient is that meat! Sadly this isn’t the case, and with clever wording, manufacturers are able to pull the wool over most pet owners’ eyes! Here is what the very careful labelling really means! If a product says ‘chicken flavour’ there is 0% to 3% chicken. If a product says ‘with chicken’, it has 4% chicken. If a product says ‘chicken’, it has at least 26% chicken. Similarly, if a product says ‘chicken AND beef’, there will be at least 26% of each meat, whereas when a product says ‘chicken WITH beef’, there will be at least 26% chicken and 4% beef. The subtle differences, of literally just one word, can make all the difference to the food’s quality! Working Out The Carb Content When you look on pet food labels, you may notice the ‘composition’ or ‘analytical constituants’ is listed – this includes the percentage of the food that is protein, crude fibre, crude oils and fats, crude ash, and moisture. You may notice there is one macronutrient missing here – the one we want to limit or eliminate; carbohydrates! By not listing the carb content of a food, it makes it harder for consumers to see the percentage of carbs in the food – higher percentages will likely put the buyer off. Most dry foods are between 40 and 60% carbohydrates! So how do we work out how much of a food is carbohydrate? This involves a very simple maths problem. Simply subtract the listed percentages of protein, fats/oils, fibre, ash and moisture from 100. The answer will give you the percentage of carbohydrates in the food. What Does ‘Crude’ Mean? When it comes to pet food labelling, ‘crude’ simply means ‘total’. So the ‘crude protein’ in a food, is the total amount of protein in a food, regardless of it’s source. The ‘crude fat’ in a food, is the total amount of fat in a food, regardless of the source. Is There Really ‘Ash’ In My Pet’s Food? Yes, and no – by ‘ash’, it doesn’t mean the manufacturer has added in a load of fire waste. Ash in pet food is the minerals and vitamins in a food. Strange term to describe some vitamins and minerals isn’t it? But there is method to the madness! When a food is analysed to work out the analytical constituents/composition, it is burnt in a special furnace, which weighs the content as it burns. As the food burns, it’s mass and weight will reduce gradually. Once the weight reaches a constant, and doesn’t
Naturally, many pet parents come to us, here at My Pet Nutritionist, having received abnormal blood and urine test results. Abnormal readings in our pets’ results, whether high or low, can be extremely worrying for many of us humans; one of the conditions shown through an abnormally low blood test result, is Hypoglycaemia. This blog looks at what it is, how to spot it, what causes it, what the vet may offer, and how you can support the body through diet and therapeutic supplements. What is Hypoglycaemia? If we break down the word ‘hypoglycaemia’ into three parts, we know what this condition entails. ‘Hypo’ means ‘under’ or ‘less’, ‘Glyc’ relates to ‘glucose’ (a monosaccharide carbohydrate; a type of sugar that can be used for energy but must be consumed for it to be present in the body. It is stored as Glycogen), and ‘aemia’ related to ‘blood’. Hypoglycaemia is a metabolic condition diagnosed when your pet has low blood sugar, or low blood glucose readings to be precise! In healthy dogs, the blood glucose level should be between 3.3 and 6.1mmol/L. If your pet’s blood results come back having a blood glucose concentration lower than 3.3mmol/L, your pet has hypoglycaemia, and requires medical attention, and may benefit in many cases from a diet change. Which we will discuss later in this blog. As glucose is one of the main sources of energy, a lack of it can affect various organs in the body, including the brain! Findings Here Symptoms of Hypoglycaemia There are a range of symptoms associated with hypoglycaemia in cats and dogs. If you see any of these symptoms in your pet, seek veterinary assistance as soon as possible! Symptoms you may see include: Reduced appetite Fatigue and lethargy Excessive water consumption (polydipsia) Excessive urination (polyuria) Reduced coordination, and slow response times Rear end weakness, or complete loss of use Seizure activity, including mild tremors, involuntary twitching, and full seizures Neurologically associated symptoms listed above, and reduced willingness to move or exercise are often the earliest signs of hypoglycaemia. Causes of Hypoglycaemia So what could cause your pet to get low blood glucose concentration readings? There are two categories we need to look at here – physiological reasons, and pathological reasons. Let’s start with physiological reasons why your pet’s blood glucose levels may be low: Overworking/extreme exercise. This is often referred to as ‘hunting dog hypoglycaemia’, and happens mostly in dogs as opposed to cats, but can happen in cats too! Overworked pets will use all available glucose for energy, then reserves of glucose in the body are diminished, causing the aforementioned symptoms. These dogs often have inadequate glycogen stores for the amount of work they are asked to do. Malnutrition. Now, malnutrition can be many things – It can be a lack of appropriate diet, the lack of enough food/calories, or even excess portions/calories. In the case of hypoglycaemia, pets with an inadequate dietary consumption of glucose end up with depleted glycogen stores as they use these for energy. Small Stature/Anorexia. Young smaller breed puppies, or juvenile toy breed dogs can be at a greater risk of hypoglycaemia. In cats, anorexia is a possible cause of hypoglycaemia. This is because they have limited muscle mass and body fat, meaning glycogen stores are limited, and blood glucose is used up very quickly. Toxicity. Whether it’s toxicity associated with medications/drugs, consumption of xylitol, or other toxic substances, in some cases in both dogs and cats, hypersecretion of insulin occurs, which lowers blood glucose levels. Similarly, if a diabetic pet has been given two doses of insulin too close together, hypoglycaemia may occur. Extreme vomiting. This is one of the most common reasons a cat may have low blood glucose concentrations, but is possible in dogs too. As the pet vomits excessively, blood glucose is used, and ultimately this causes depletion of glycogen stores in the body. Findings Here Findings Here Moving onto pathological causes of hypoglycaemia in pets, there are many endocrine and hepatic diseases associated with low blood glucose concentration in pets. Let’s take a look at these: Diabetes. This is one of the most common causes of hypoglycaemia in both cats and dogs. When the body produces too much insulin, or the pet is given too much insulin in the event of a hyperglycaemic attack, glucose production is decreased, and hypoglycaemia occurs. You can read more about diabetes in dogs here. Severe hepatic disease. Whether your pat has hepatitis, cirrhosis of the liver, neoplasia or any other liver disease, hypoglycaemia is a risk. The liver plays a role in glucose storage, in the form of glycogen – this is called hepatic gluconeogenesis. When the liver is diseased, it is unable to perform this function, leading to low glycogen storage, and therefore, low blood glucose concentration. Both cats and dogs can fall victim to these issues. Portosystemic Shunt. This also causes hepatic gluconeogenesis to decrease, as the vein transporting blood to and from the intestines and heart, bypasses the liver. This is seen more commonly in dogs than cats. Hypoadrenocorticism (Addison’s Disease). This disease is associated with the endocrine system. The counter regulatory hormone, Cortisol, plays a huge role in keeping glucose levels stable in the bloodstream, however in cases of Hypoadrenocorticism, when the adrenal gland which releases cortisol is unable to do so, glucose production is inhibited. This can happen in both cats and dogs. Hypopituitarism. Another endocrine condition, this time affecting the pituitary gland, and it’s ability to release relevant hormones. When the gland is unable to produce and release other counter-regulatory hormones, this time being Growth Hormone and adrenocorticotropic hormone, the glycogen stores are diminished as glucose production is slower than the rate it is being used at. Both cats and dogs can be at risk of this pathway. Islet Cell Hyperplasia and Insulinoma. These are two conditions related to the excessive secretion of insulin. Insulin in high amounts makes the body use excessive amounts of glucose, which lowers the blood glucose concentration. These
At My Pet Nutritionist, we help a lot of worried pets owners who’s feline and canine companions have a condition called Pica. Pica can be indirectly life threatening, so we are here to raise awareness of what it is, why it happens, and how we can reduce risk in your pets! What is Pica, and What Causes It? Pica is a compulsive behavioural condition, whereby the pet craves inedible objects. Being a compulsive behavioural disorder, Pica can be very tricky to combat, and requires the help of one, or many professionals, from force free behaviourists to pet nutritionists like us. Underlying illnesses can very much trigger pica in pets, and this is the side we can help you with most. Some of the items commonly ingested by pets with Pica include stones/rocks, dirt, garbage, paper, socks, other fabric items, even walls and plasterboard, or licking paintwork. Faeces is another, which we delve a little deeper into next! As the items often consumed by pets with Pica are often not digestible, they can cause a host of symptoms relating to gut damage, gastric ulceration, internal blockages, and other internal health worries. Symptoms of a secondary health problem include: Vomiting Constipation Diarrhoea Fishy or metallic breath Excessive drinking Excessive drooling Lip licking ‘Downward dog’ position, denoting gastrointestinal pain Burping Changes in behaviour (dogs will often seem ‘low’, cats will often hide) Lethargy When it comes to underlying medical causes of Pica, there are quite a few conditions that can be associated, such as: Lack of nutritional balance leading to malnutrition (likely the most common cause) Kidney disease Immune Mediated Haemolytic Anaemia (IMHA) Parasitic burdens Inflammatory Bowed Disease (IBD) or Lymphatic Gastritis Iron Deficiency Over active thyroid (hyperthyroidism) Diabetes Leaky Gut/poor gut health Gastrointestinal tumours Findings Here Findings Here Those on certain anti seizure medications such as phenobarbital, some pain medications, corticosteroid medications, and some anti-cancer treatments like chemotherapy may also experience Pica. Findings Here Findings Here If we look at causes from a behavioural point of view, it can be particularly common in those with separation anxiety, those lacking mental or physical stimulation, and those lacking appropriate socialization leading to stress. These are all areas to be worked on with a qualified, force free behaviourist, for which specialists in both dogs and cats are available. Coprophagia, A Type of Pica Now, those who are serial faeces eaters, do still have Pica, but a specific type of Pica, known as Coprophagia. Coprophagy occurs more in females than it does in males, and more commonly in dogs than cats. Coprophagy can be normal, specifically in the case of a mother dog with puppies. When nursing a litter of puppies, mother dogs are instinctively clean, and consume their puppy’s excrement for the first few weeks. It is not normal for adult pets who are not nursing litters, to eat faecal matter – this is when coprophagy is not expected, and needs looking into. Findings Here A Side Note on Puppies We feel it is important to mention puppies, specifically. While Pica is indeed, very dangerous in many cases, puppies do explore the world with their mouth! Puppies will often chew inedible items, and ingest parts of toys, socks, splinters of wood from items of furniture they’ve ‘kindly’ redesigned for you; this is quite normal in young and adolescent puppies, and may not follow through to adulthood where Pica becomes an obsessive problem, where underlying illness should be ruled out. To give your puppy the best chance of not ingesting inedible artifacts, ensure plenty of rest is enforced, as well as plenty of mental stimulation. A strong ‘leave it’ command can be majorly beneficial too, and what a better time to instil this, than as a puppy?! Diagnosis and Treatment If you suspect your pet has Pica, it is important to seek veterinary guidance as your first point of call, as acting on the potential for underlying health conditions is important. Similarly, if your dog or cat is experiencing any of the aforementioned symptoms, veterinary help is likely required to reduce the risk of death due to internal blockage. So how is it diagnosed by the vet? Your veterinarian will look at your pet’s medical history – if you have been able to keep a diary of food and behaviour alongside symptoms, this can really aid your vet! A physical examination may be performed, which will feel everything from your dog’s body condition to their lymph nodes. The dog’s mouth will be checked to rule our dental issues, and their heart and lungs will be listened to via stethoscope. Full panel blood tests, and urinalyses may be carried out too, for a more internal approach to diagnostics of underlying health conditions. If the vet feels a blockage is occurring in your pet, they may perform an ultrasound or x-ray, followed by potential surgery for treatment of this issue. Treatments wise, the suitable treatment for any diagnosed internal, underlying condition will be discussed and prescribed. If your vet does not feel surgery or pharmaceutical treatment will be beneficial to your pet, they will likely refer you to a veterinary behaviourist, or other force free behaviourist. How Can We Reduce Risks? In order to reduce the risk of harm from objects consumed by those suffering with Pica, there are a number of precautions we can look at taking – these stem from both a training perspective, and a diet perspective! Training Aids It may seem obvious, but it is incredibly important that we monitor our pets’ actions, especially if they are known to suffer with Pica. Teaching a solid ‘leave it’ command using positive reinforcement is essential. Discuss this with your trainer – it can be learnt at any age. Muzzle training is important for all dogs! This is trickier for cats, but cat muzzles are available to buy. Muzzle training not only means your dog is comfortable in their muzzle, which acts as a barrier between their mouth and the inedible items they like to consume,
In our previous blog post, we wrote about exposure to environmental hazards in the home, garden, and local parks. Environmental hazards are around us the vast majority of the time, and not only in the home, garden, or on local open green spaces, but at beaches, around lakes, and in woodland areas too. How can we keep our pets safe from these environmental hazards? Read on in this blog post to find out what the potential hazards are, and how we can keep our furry family members safe! Around Lakes, Ponds and Streams Starting with water bodies – whether your pet is exposed to lakes, ponds or streams, there is potential for exposure to hazards! Blue-Green Algae More and more pet owners are becoming aware of blue-green algae blooms; but why should we avoid them? How do they form? Blue-green algae, also often referred to as Cyanobacteria, is a type of gram-negative bacteria, which presents much like an algae, which is why it’d informally known as blue-green algae. It forms in blooms, much like algal blooms, in lakes and ponds – usually still bodies of water. Conditions for the bacteria to thrive will differ from water body to water body, which is why it’s not present in every lake or pond you may come across. Contributing factors to it’s growth include water clarity, temperature, availability of sunlight, and availability of sufficient nutrients for bacterial growth. Typically, blue-green algae is seen between the months of May and September, as these months are when the conditions are generally suitable for bacterial growth. When walking near still bodies of water, you should look out for a discolouration to the water itself – the colour can range anywhere from neon green, to pea green, to blueish green, to a rusty reddish brown colour (not to be confused with the rusty coloured streams often seen in parts of the UK, which are caused by iron contamination, and a different type of bacteria), and the smell given off is quite unique; it often smells like pungent rotting food; certainly not a pleasant smell! Blooms of blue-green algae can be highly toxic to both humans and animals, due to toxins found in the bacteria. There is a variety of possible health problems that can come from blue-algae poisoning, ranging from mild to severe, such as: Rashes on the skin Nausea and vomiting Downward dog position (denoting abdominal pain) Diarrhoea High temperature Liver damage Kidney damage Neurological damage How do we avoid the risks associated with blue-green algae? When you are walking near still bodies of water, particularly in the aforementioned months, it is wise to keep your dog on a lead, at least until you have fully checked the water for contamination, or discolouration. If you suspect there is a bloom in the area you;re walking in, ensure your pet (and any human children!) keeps well away from it. Do not let them drink from the water body, nor swim in it. Some councils do put up signage in places where there are frequent blooms of cyanobacteria, but it is important not to rely on these! There is an application for mobile phones called “Bloomin’ Algae”, which is well worth downloading, as it shows reports of algal blooms. Sewerage Leaks and Other Contaminants Another risk of lakes and other water bodies, is sadly, and rather disgustingly, sewerage leaks and chemical contamination. It happens more than we care to imagine, and is pretty self explanatory. When sewers leak in to streams, toxic waste is transported down stream, and into any larger water bodies the stream leads to. With regard to chemical contamination, every now and then, you may hear of such an event on your local news, whereby a company or individual has disposed of toxic waste into a stream, whether by accident or on purpose. Depending on the spillage and type of contaminant, a host of health risks are present, from skin rashes, to vomiting and diarrhoea, to potential poisoning and internal organ damage. How can we avoid these areas? It can be tricky to tell if the stream you may be walking near has been contaminated, so it’s wise to keep an eye and ear open on local news channels, in newspapers, and on local community social media groups. Some water companies will map out sewerage and other contamination points, and their potential direction of travel, and display this on their websites and/or social media. Some may also offer an alert system for local residents to sign up to – this is worth investigating and signing up to any facilities for your area. Avoid walking in or near these places. Water Intoxication An example of an often overlooked environmental hazard your dog could be exposed to is water toxicity. Now, unlike the other hazards around lakes, ponds and streams, water toxicity doesn’t involve any contamination, and can happen even in the cleanest of water bodies! So what is water intoxication, if there is nothing toxic in the water? When a dog consumes too much water in a short amount of time, it can lead to water intoxication, scientifically known as hyponatremia. During play time in lakes and ponds, dogs can take in a huge amount of water, especially when retrieving items. When a dog takes in too much water in a short amount of time, the body loses sodium, which in turn causes cells to fill with water, and swell. Cells swelling throughout the body, but especially in the brain, can be fatal. Symptoms of water intoxication include: Vomiting Difficulty breathing Lethargy Glazed eyes Lack of coordination Excessive salivation Seizure activity Bloating Loss of consciousness What can we do to avoid water intoxication? It may seem pretty self explanatory, but in order to reduce the risk of water being ingested too fast, we must be careful with how we interact with our dogs when they are enjoying the use of ponds and lakes. Try to avoid throwing items for them to catch or retrieve –
Here at My Pet Nutritionist, we understand the importance of keeping your pets healthy. As we often write about, keeping the gut healthy and feeding a fresh balanced diet are two steps toward a full picture of health. The world around us is sadly a very toxic place, with us and our pets being surrounded by environmental hazards at nearly all times! How can we avoid this exposure? What can we do to negate the potential effects of environmental toxins and hazards? This bumper two-part blog post will look at a host of potential dangers in a variety of environments you may frequent regularly with your pets in tow, how you can reduce exposure to these, and what we can do to help the body cope with it’s environment. Part 1 looks at hazards in the home, garden, and local parklands. Click here for Part 2, which will look at hazards in and around lakes, woodlands, and beaches. Domestic Environment The first of our areas of exposure to environmental hazards, is the place you and your pets probably spend most of your time; at home, or even in other people’s homes, cafes, and shops. All the indoors places. Your pet may be exposed to a huge variety of environmental hazards when inside, so let’s take a look at some of these. Cleaning Products Take a look at the cleaning products you use in your home. You may have floor cleaners, bleach, surface cleaners, laundry detergent, laundry softener, laundry scent boosters, carpet cleaners, stain removal products, window cleaning sprays, dishwasher tablets; the list goes on! When you think about every cleaning product used in your home, you can really begin to see how exposed your pet might be to them! Every surface they touch, the air they breathe – it all contributes to exposure. Now, take a look at the ingredients label on each product. Can you easily identify each ingredient? Are there some long, science-y looking words you haven’t heard of before? It’s quite likely! Next have a look at the warning label; what warnings does the product come with? Irritation to skin or eyes, hazard to health, hazardous to the environment, corrosive, acute toxicity; these are all common warnings on household cleaning products! Some of the more worrying ingredients often used in cleaning products are: Ammonia Chlorine Bleach Isopropyl Alcohol Formaldehyde Pine But my bottle says ‘pet friendly’… sadly, the ‘pet friendly’ qualities of a product, merely mean that the product won’t kill your pet if used correctly. Just because a product is pet friendly, doesn’t mean that exposure to it can cause some health issues in pets, including most commonly, skin issues, and sometimes breathing issues too. Conventional cleaning products can cause so many problems in pets through exposure by touching, inhaling or ingesting, including: Burns to the skin, throat or gastrointestinal system Dry skin, rashes and itching Interdigital cysts Lethargy Vomiting and diarrhoea Seizures/neurological abnormalities Stomach ulcers Your dog or cat may breathe in particles of sprays, lick flooring or textiles, lick their fur or paws after contact with cleaning chemicals, have direct contact with chemicals by walking through the house or laying on furnishings etc. What can we do to reduce exposure to these products? Lots! You can make lots of excellent switches in your home, to more natural products, without the risk of nasty side affects if ingested, inhaled, or touched. Some handy ideas are as follows: Provilan Probiotic Cleaning Products from Ingenious Probiotics (in the UK – other suppliers may be available) are a fantastic range of natural cleaning products, with the added bonus of good bacteria in the form of probiotics. The bacteria outcompetes/eats the bad bacteria in the area being cleaned, and is completely unharmful for pets! No only are they safe, but they’re beneficial too! Baking soda (bicarbonate of soda) mixed with water can be used to scrub places like toilets, sinks, ovens etc White vinegar or apple cider vinegar mixed with water can be great for cleaning hard surfaces, and soft furnishings. Home Fragrance Home fragrance is a big, but important topic when it comes to hazardous exposure to our pets! We all want out homes to smell nice – walking in your front door to be hit with a beautiful fragrance of apple, geranium, freesia, or whatever you most prefer is just the loveliest thing… however; is it doing the health our pets any favours (or us for that matter!)? It may not be! The vast majority of scents in the home, whether it’s through the burning of candles, plug in diffusers, reed diffusers, or room sprays, contain VOCs – Volatile Organic Compounds. These VOCs can be quite a hazard to the health of us and our pets, not to mention the behavioural side of it for our fluffy dependants! Health risks of VOCs include: Eye, nose and throat irritation Headaches Loss of coordination Nausea Potential damage to the liver Potential damage to the kidneys Potential neurological damage Cancer (some, not all, VOCs are known to be carcinogenic) Birth defects Fertility issues How can we have a nice smelling home, without the VOC risks? First, ditch the diffusers, plug ins, candles and room sprays! Here’s some handy hints and tips to help your home smell nice, without the risks: Vacuum daily Invest in a good air purifying unit, appropriate to the size of the area you want it to cover. Pop a pan of water on the stove. Add in your favourite natural scent providing materials, such as cinnamon sticks, orange peel, lemon peel, cloves, star anise, lavender, thyme, or whatever fresh ingredients really take your fancy! Heat it and keep it on a low simmer – it will fill the room with a beautiful, custom made scent! You can even pop some of the boiled, scented water in a spray bottle, and spray it in other rooms! Chat to a qualified naturopath with knowledge on suitable essential oils for your pets – these must be self-selected by
Internal parasitic burdens can be quite worrisome for pet parents – they can affect both our pets, and us humans too, so they’re certainly something to be one step ahead of! Here at My pet Nutritionist, we aim to put your mind at ease, and to help you fully understand the ins and outs of parasites, giving you lots of options to help prevent and control infestations. You can read part 1 here! Welcome to part 2 – Internal Parasites When looking at internal parasites, there are various parts of the body targeted, which we need to look at, including the intestines, (where you can find nematodes, cestodes and protozoa), the lungs, and the heart. Some of these parasites can be life threatening, so it’s important to understand symptoms, prevention, and treatment options. Intestinal Parasites Intestinal parasites are usually referred to by pet owners, as ‘worms’. While some are worms, not all intestinal parasites are worms, nor are all worms equal! Nematodes differ from Cestodes, which differ from Protozoa, so we will delve deeper into each type here in this blog post. Nematodes Nematodes are from the phyla Nematoda, and are your typical worm – they usually look similar to your garden earth worms (though are not actually related!); long and thin, with a squashable texture, and tapered ends. This, of course, is a generalisation, and there are various physical and mechanical differences between the different parasitic nematodes. Here’s the strange thing about nematodes – they can be harmless, and actually beneficial, or they can be parasitic – it’s a very broad phyla! Beneficial nematodes are often used as a means of environmental flea, tick and ant control. These are sold online or from some environmental/gardening shops, and are mixed with water before being sprayed onto the affected area. The microscopic nematodes, now sprayed all over the area, target, and eat the larvae of their target species, which controls pest population! Anyway, getting back to the parasitic kind! Let’s take a look at the intestinal nematodes pet owners may face during their time with pets. Roundworms (Toxocara canis and Toxicaris leonina) Roundworms, also known as Ascarid worms, are very easy to identify in their matured form. If a pet has a burden of these worms, which have matured from their larval stage, they will be very obviously present in the animal’s faeces, or vomit. They are white in colour, usually long (between 4 and 6 inches), thin, and curly – they are often expelled from the body in spirals. The main method of transmission of roundworm to our pets, is through coming into contact with contaminated faeces. Those carrying roundworm, shed microscopic eggs into their faeces, leaving others to come into contact with it. Some insects and other animals, including cockroaches, earthworms, and birds can also carry roundworm eggs, which if eaten by your pet, can pass onto, and mature inside your pet. Puppies can also be born with roundworms, and shed live eggs in their faeces. A question owners often ask, is if they can catch roundworms from their pets – and the answer is yes! Accidental oral contact with your pets faeces can pass roundworms on to you, if your pet is carrying roundworm eggs. Symptoms you may see if your dog has a mature roundworm burden include: Diarrhoea Vomiting Changes to skin and coat Weight loss Bloated appearance to the stomach Visible worms in faeces and/or vomit If your dog has recently contracted roundworm, and it is still in it’s larval stage, it’s unlikely there will be many symptoms, apart from perhaps some loose stools. Findings Here Hookworms (Uncinaria stenocephala and Ancylostoma caninum) The next intestinal nematodes we will look at are Hookworms. As per their name, matured hookworms look like very small, but not microscopic, hooks. They are very thin, no longer than 2cm long, and are white in colour. They can be seen in faeces when they’re matured, but can be confused with undigested food particles, or even small pieces of string. In order to stay inside the intestine, where they are fed and housed in those infected, they have small mouthparts which latch onto the intestine walls where they feed directly from blood vessels surrounding the intestine. There are a few methods of transmission for hookworms in pets – pets can contract them through their mother’s milk as puppies or via the placenta before birth, and they can be orally ingested, or even be contracted through the skin. Hookworm larvae can lay dormant, and reactivate during pregnancy too, so it’s important to run regular faecal samples during pregnancy. Can hookworms transmit to humans? Yes, and no. Larvae can be transmitted in unsanitary conditions, but are rarely transmitted as adults. There is one exception to this however! This may make you shudder, but matured Hookworms can work their way into the human body through the skin, most commonly through bare feet in unsanitary conditions where pets have shed larvae in their faeces. While Hookworm infestations aren’t generally life threatening, they can cause anaemia if left untreated – this is more common in young animals than in adults though. Some symptoms you may notice if your pet has Hookworms include: ‘downward dog’ position in dogs (showing gastrointestinal discomfort) Diarrhoea Vomiting Bloodied stools (due to blood loss when Hookworms detach from the gut lining, as they inject anticoagulants into the localised feeding area) Changes to skin and coat Anaemia, especially in young animals Physical development impairments in young pets Small string like worms visible in faeces Coughing in severe cases If your dog has Hookworms in their larval stage, you may see diarrhoea, but may not see other symptoms, as eggs are microscopic. Findings Here Findings Here Whipworms (Trichuris vulpis) Whipworms, the third nematode sometimes found in our pets, get their name from their shape, much like the other nematodes discussed in this article. If you think of a whip, carried by movie heroes like Indiana Jones, and reduce it’s size to 0.5-5cm – you’ll have
Parasites are always a worry with our pets – let’s face it, our pets touch all sorts on the ground during their walks, sniffing sessions, and play time! It’s inevitable that they come into contact with faeces, urine, slugs, snails and so much more, giving many opportunities for parasites to be picked up, both internally and externally. Here at My Pet Nutritionist we want to help you understand more about parasites, how we can test for them, and how we can help the body rid of them. This is a bumper two part blog, providing you with all the need-to-know information regarding parasites! You can read Part 2 here! Welcome to part 1 – External Parasites Fleas Fleas can be identified as tiny black insects, moving in a hopping form. They jump and crawl around your dog, using a long feeding tube to suck blood from under your dog’s skin. they are very much visible to the naked eye, and another sign of fleas being present, is the dirt they leave behind – this can be identified as black matter in patches across the skin of the dog, at the base of hair follicles. Fleas can be picked up out on walks, or from communal dog establishments when in contact with another dog with fleas, or wildlife with fleas. There are different types of fleas, which target different animal species, some live happily on dogs and cats too, but others can only survive on their intended species, for example hedgehog fleas can only survive on hedgehogs. Cat fleas and dog fleas are the ones most commonly seen in pet households. They can also bite their humans too! If flea infestations are left for too long, the pet can become anaemic (particularly common in puppies), and also suffer with hair loss. Later in this blog post, we will discuss the dangers of using isoxazolines (chewable pest treatments) and spot-on treatments for our pets. Sometimes severe infestations do require one of these products to get them under control, as well as professional house exterminators, but we recommend avoiding these products unless it is as a last resort. Naturally, you can help prevent fleas through the use of selected essential oils (take extra caution with cats when using EOs) and neem oil on the pet, and feeding fresh garlic to dogs (though avoid feeding garlic to puppies under 6 months, and any Japanese breed as these are susceptible to allicin poisoning), as well as another herbal flea prevention supplement. There are many natural topical and internal products on the market, specifically for their target species, whether that’s cat or dog, so using these in a layered approach may give you the best chance of staying flea free! If your pet was to get some fleas, rubbing a thick layer of shampoo onto their dry coat, and leaving for 10 minutes before rinsing out using a comb can really help control the infestation. You can also purchase electric flea-zapping combs which can have great results! In severe cases, food grade diatomaceous earth could be sprinkled onto the coat, however this is extremely drying on the skin, and can be lethal if inhaled. You will also need to focus on steam cleaning your soft furnishings, carpets etc, and clean the house regularly, making extra sure to clean any small, potentially moist nooks and crannies, and wicker items as fleas seem to love these areas! Findings Here Findings Here Ticks Ticks get a really bad reputation – and for good reason, especially in some countries outside of the UK. Ticks can be identified as having a bulbous body, with very small head, and 8 legs, protruding from the head area. When they’re attached to your pet’s skin, you will be able to see the large rounded body (the larger the body, the more the tick has fed), with some legs seen very close to the skin. Ticks need to be removed as soon as possible, as they can carry a range of diseases – anything from Lyme disease (which is the most common tick bourne disease in the UK, though isn’t very common I itself) to disease leading to Alfa Gal Syndrome in humans, and paralysis in the host in other countries. They really can be nasty little creatures! To remove a tick, simply grab a tick removal tool and follow the basic instructions. They’re usually fail safe, and easy to use. If by chance, you do get the head stuck in the pet, these usually work their way out in time. To transmit Lymes Disease, ticks have to be attached for 36-48 hours, however some species of ticks carrying more sinister diseases in countries outside the UK can transmit disease quicker, so it’s super important to check your pets twice a day, and after every walk. You can read more about types of ticks, tick removal, and tick prevention in our blog dedicated to ticks here! Mites Mites come in various forms. The most common ones we see, are Mange (of which there are two types), harvest mites, and ear mites. Let’s take a look at some of these. Mange Mange presents as large areas of hair loss and scabbing. In severe cases, dogs can become completely bald. To test for mange, your veterinarian will take a skin scrape – a sample of the skin’s microbiome, which is analysed under a microscope for mite activity. Each type of mite is a different shape, so the type of mite can easily be diagnosed. Sarcoptic mange is often referred to as Scabies. Sarcoptic mange mites tend to live on the skin’s surface, and tend to be contagious. Ivermectin is the treatment often prescribed by veterinarians to battle sarcoptic mange, however there are some potential complication to using this, which we will discuss later in this blog. Some medicated, anti-seborrheic shampoos, are often used too. There are some natural options that may work in helping fight sarcoptic mange mites, including neem oil, turmeric, and some select essential
Here at My Pet Nutritionist, we strive to help you decide on the best diet for your pet, including all the add-ons! We advocate feeding a fresh food diet when at all possible, whether that is raw or cooked using one of our balanced recipes. The big question often asked by pet owners is – does my pet need vegetables? The answer depends on the species of pet, and the individual animal! Let’s discuss the feeding of vegetables to pets, which veggies are suitable, and how much and often they should be fed! Do Cats Need Vegetables? Our feline friends are obligate carnivores. This means their diet should consist of meat, offal and bone. Cats will not benefit from a portion of vegetables, as they don’t have the required enzymes for digestion of plants or starch. Cats undergo a process called gluconeogenesis, which turns fats and proteins into energy, unlike many other species whereby carbohydrates are used for energy. During gluconeogenesis, a series of enzymatic reactions occur to achieve the release of energy from protein and fat. Findings Here Cats may benefit from a little wheatgrass and kelp; these ingredients are a great source of fibre which helps digestion and gut motility. They also contain a plethora of nutrition, such as Vitamin E, Zinc, Manganese, Iodine and copper. Kelp can help with plaque control on the teeth, and wheatgrass is great to aid immune health, eye health and vision, and also helps keep oral and gastrointestinal health in check. Do Dogs Need Vegetables? Unlike cats, while dogs are also carnivores, our canine counterparts are facultative carnivores; not obligate. This means they can benefit from a small amount of plant matter. For a more detailed explanation of facultative carnivorism, have a read of our blog: Is My Dog a Carnivore or an Omnivore? A complete meal for dogs does contain vegetables and fruits (collectively known as ‘plant matter’), as well as omega rich meat, fish or algae based sources. Dogs struggling with itchy skin may not tolerate some, or all vegetables – in these cases, vegetables should be avoided. If your dog is on an elimination diet they should not have vegetables, but may include vegetables as part of their elimination trial once protein choices are exhausted. Let’s look at the benefits feeding plant matter can bring! Benefits of Vegetables for Dogs There are a range of benefits plant matter can bring to your dog’s diet. These benefits cannot be sought from a purely meat diet. Polyphenols Polyphenols work alongside antioxidants to protect the tissues in the body from oxidative stress. In turn, this helps prevent cancer, general inflammation in the body, and coronary heart disease. Polyphenols inhibit transcript factors for inflammation by positively interacting with proteins which are involved in expression of genes, which ultimately helps keep inflammation in the body down. Studies also show that supplementing the diet with polyphenols when a dog has diarrhoea is beneficial as it helps reduce inflammation in the intestines. Vegetables high in polyphenols include: berries, nuts, seeds, and leafy greens. Findings Here Findings Here Findings Here Antioxidants Antioxidants are a very important part of the diet, in order to keep your dog healthy. The body contains lots of free radicals – these are molecules which have an unpaired electron. These are extremely unstable, highly reactive, and can cause the onset of cancer, cataracts, heart disease, and inflammatory disease. They really are very damaging to healthy cells in the body, so we really need to work toward controlling levels of free radicals in the body, using antioxidants. When the diet is rich in antioxidants, free radicals are ‘eaten’ away from healthy cells in the body, which reduces the risk of oxidative stress. Not only is the reduction of oxidative stress a huge benefit to antioxidants, but eye health, cardiovascular health, and brain function are supported, as well as a reduction in inflammation in the body. Healthy ageing is largely down to reducing oxidative stress, so antioxidants are also very important for the ageing dog. Blueberries are excellent sources of antioxidants, as well as spinach, raspberries, and broccoli. Findings Here Findings Here Phytonutrients Phytonutrients bring wonderful anti-cancer and pro-heart health benefits. Studies show links between phytonutrient consumption, and longevity too! As well as these fantastic benefits, phytonutrients play a role in immune modulation, to keep the immune function strong, and prevent various diseases including skin cancer, internal cancers, inflammatory diseases, osteoarthritis, and others. It may also play a role in the management of diabetes, and allergies, as well as having anti-ageing effects. Findings Here Findings Here Choosing Suitable Vegetables for Dogs When choosing suitable plant matter for your dog, you need to consider the Glycaemic Index Rating of the vegetable in question. Glycaemic Index Rating Looking at the glycaemic index (GI) rating of plant matter is a very important part of choosing suitable options. The glycaemic index rates how quickly a food digests and causes a blood sugar spike. The lower the glycaemic index value, the longer it takes to digest that food, and the less likely it is to cause a spike in blood glucose. Higher GI foods digest quicker and cause a blood glucose spike. Try to feed lower GI foods more often, and only feeding higher GI foods occasionally, and sparingly. In general, the lower GI foods tend to be the most beneficial anyway! Findings Here Findings Here Some examples of Low GI foods include: Leafy green vegetables Broccoli Brussels Sprouts Cabbage Asparagus Spinach Peppers Mushrooms Avocado flesh Herbs Some medium GI foods include: Berries Pear Apple Some high GI foods include: Banana Melon Sweet potato Carrot Parsnip Pumpkin Butternut squash Introducing, and Serving Vegetables When introducing vegetables to your dog for the first time, you may wish to start by giving a little veg, of only one or two varieties to ensure they like the options given and so as not to put them off entirely. If your dog is itch-prone, or has allergies, avoid all medium and high GI
