Pet dental health is so important for all! At My Pet Nutritionist, we love to educate owners on all aspects of pet health and husbandry. Many pet owners come to us when their pet’s oral health needs improvement; dental surgery is often required, but what do you do if your pet needs dental surgery? This blog post aims to help you understand why a pet may need dental surgery, what to do before surgery, after surgery, and ongoing to reduce the risk of needing further dental surgery. Why Might Your Pet Need Dental Surgery? There are many reasons a dog or cat may need dental surgery. Some mild conditions or cases of dirty teeth may be resolved at home, but many pets require professional help to avoid severe health complications caused by very poor oral health. Here’s some of the most common reasons a pet may need dental surgery: Periodontal Disease: pets with periodontal disease often end up going undiagnosed for a long time, causing the disease to develop. There are various symptoms of periodontal disease including bleeding gums, bad breath, receding gums, tooth loss, pus around the teeth, tooth discolouration and formation of epulis. If left untreated, periodontal disease can be life threatening, as bacteria emanating from the mouth enters the gut via the bloodstream. Organs commonly affected by periodontal disease are the kidneys, liver and heart. If your pet has diabetes, you may also find blood sugar regulation more difficult. Fractured Teeth/Jaw: if your pet manages to fracture their jaw or teeth, this will require dental surgery. Generally speaking, fractured teeth will be removed; some cases may be offered root canal surgery, but it is usually easier to have the tooth removed. Fractured jaws can require more extensive surgery, and come with a longer recovery process. Retained Juvenile Teeth: some young dogs require tooth removal surgery due to retained juvenile teeth. This is when the adult teeth have grown in front of, behind, or next to the puppy teeth, but the puppy teeth have not detached from the gumline, leaving two sets of teeth. Most puppies won’t require this intervention, but some may. Oral Tumours: while rare, oral tumours can happen in dogs at any age, but particularly in older dogs, or dogs with poor dental hygiene in general. Dental surgery is usually recommended to remove the tumour, and surrounding tissues if the margin is available. Some oral tumours will require removal of parts of the jaw. Cleft Palate: in rare cases, a pet may suffer with a cleft palate, which is a congenital defect whereby the roof of the mouth has failed to form properly. This lack of closure results in an opening being left between the mouth and the nasal cavity. Dog breeds most susceptible to this are the brachycephalic breeds (pugs, French bulldogs, English bulldogs, Boston terriers), and cat breeds most prone to this condition are the Siamese, Persian and Savannah cats. Findings Here Findings Here Should I See A Specialist? We recommend seeking help from a veterinary dental specialist! While traditional vets are amazing people, worth their weight in gold, when your dog is undergoing dental surgery we recommend seeking help from a veterinary dental surgeon. The tissues in the mouth are very delicate, and while traditional veterinarians learn about oral health, veterinary dental surgeons are highly skilled in their specialist area, with far more in-depth knowledge when it comes to oral health and disease. Post Diagnosis Preparation Once you have received a diagnosis for your pet’s dental issue, and are awaiting a date for their dental surgery, your veterinarian will most likely give you a short list of things to do between diagnosis and surgery. This list may include some of the following: Feed a softer food: while waiting for surgery, your pet is likely to require a soft food. Softer foods will put less strain on the gums and teeth themselves, which will therefore decrease the risk of pain in these diseased or damaged areas. Many pets lose their appetite when their mouth is painful, which may also create a negative association with food. Some pet owners choose to feed a soft, high quality, high meat content wet food, others may choose to feed a cooked food with added bone broth to soften it. Avoid chews: as chews are generally hard or chewy in texture, allowing your pet access to these may cause pain or further aggravate the affected area. Remove unsuitable toys: some of the toys your vet may recommend removing from your pet’s reach include knotted toys, tug toys, solid toys and balls. Avoiding use of these toys will help reduce discomfort for your pet, and reduce the risk of further damage prior to surgery. Keep these toys out of reach until oral wounds are healed. Antibiotics: depending on your pet’s diagnosis, your vet may recommend a course of oral antibiotics to reduce risk of infection in the affected area, or to treat infection that may already be present. As with any course of antibiotics, it is important to finish the whole course prescribed, unless advised otherwise by your veterinarian. Painkillers: as dental health problems usually cause discomfort or pain, your vet is likely to prescribe painkillers in the time between diagnosis and surgery. Ensure your pet is given these, and look out for any changes in behaviour which may suggest worsening of pain. Practice crate training/calmness: some pets my require a complete rest period after surgery, depending on the procedure required. As activity increases blood flow to the gums, you will most likely need to keep your pet calm following surgery to allow the surgical site to heal. Ensuring your pet is both comfortable in a crate, and able to relax without being overstimulated by normal household life is incredibly beneficial to their post operative period. The more comfortable they are in these scenarios before their surgery, the more relaxed they will be during recovery, which aids the speed of recovery. Findings Here Preparation for the Night Before/Morning
Here at My Pet Nutritionist, we know how important your pet’s diet is, and how their diet can have a huge effect on their health and longevity. As part of their balanced diet, there are many vital macronutrients and micronutrients required in the correct quantities to ensure optimum health. One of the essential micronutrients required in the diet of both dogs and cats, is Choline; but why is it so important? Read on to find out! What is choline? Choline is an essential micronutrient; however it is neither a mineral nor a vitamin! It is a water soluble organic compound. Essential nutrients are nutrients the target species MUST consume within their diet. These nutrients are needed by the body, but the body cannot produce enough; meaning the diet needs to include them. As nutritional science has evolved over the years, move and more essential nutrients have been discovered. Choline is one of the newest discoveries in the nutrition world, being recognised as an essential micronutrient only since 1998 by the Institute of Medicine! When reading literature, you may find Choline is grouped with B Vitamins due to its similar functions within the body. Another important nutrient is Betaine, which is a metabolite of Choline. When Choline is metabolised, Betaine is formed, which has many health benefits such as protecting cells from osmotic stress (keeping cells perfectly hydrated, and stopping them from shrinking or swelling), and acting as a methyl donor, which plays a vital role in liver health, and is heavily involved in other major internal systems. Findings Here Findings Here Why is Choline Important? Choline, as an essential nutrient, is extremely important. It plays a huge role in many systems within the body from cells to metabolism, to DNA, to the nervous system. Let’s take a closer look at the roles it plays in the body: Cell Membranes: Choline is largely responsible for supporting the integrity of cell membranes, due to its ability to create the necessary fats to keep cell structure strong. Cell messengers: there are a number of compounds that act as cell messengers – passing signals between cells to allow them to ‘communicate’. Choline helps to produce these compounds. DNA Synthesis: like Vitamins B9 (Folate) and B12 (Cobalamin), Choline is involved in the synthesis of DNA. DNA is the body’s genetic code, so it is incredibly important to keep it healthy. Metabolism and transport of fat and cholesterol: this mainly improves the health of the liver. Choline helps to remove cholesterol from an individual’s liver by producing the responsible substance. If your pet is deficient in Choline, fat and cholesterol can build up in the liver, which would dampen it’s functionality. Benefits the nervous system: when Choline combines with an acetyl group, a reaction occurs using an enzyme called choline acetyltransferase as the catalyst. The result of this reaction is the production of Acetylcholine – an important neurotransmitter. Acetylcholine plays a major role in many aspects of health including muscle movement, memory/cognitive alertness and heartbeat regulation. Essential for healthy pancreas: studies show that a deficiency in Choline can be linked to pancreatitis. These studies suggest that supplementation with Choline can protect pancreatic cells, and reduce the risk of pancreatitis flares. One of the main pancreatic issues in those lacking a sufficient amount of Choline, is disruption to the exocrine system. Methylation: probably one of the most important roles of Choline in the body is Methylation. Methylation is incredibly important as it is the process which creates the Myelin sheath; the protective layer coating nerves in the body. These nerves affect brain health, and general nervous system health throughout the body. Benefits during pregnancy: during pregnancy and foetal development, choline is extremely important as it aids cognitive development in the maturing foetus – this sets young puppies and kittens up for better cognitive function when born and ageing. Findings Here Findings Here Findings Here Findings Here How Much Choline Does My Pet Need? Cats and dogs require different amounts of choline – in fact every species has different requirements for almost every nutrient, so it’s important that we tailor our pet’s nutrition to suit their species. With that in mind, how much choline is required for cats, and how much for dogs? Studies suggest that adult cats require a minimum of 800mg of Choline per kilogram of FRESH food per day, and that there is no upper tolerable limit in cats. in terms of dry food matter, this is around 3500mg/kg. Kittens may require a little more than this recommendation. Dogs require a different amount of Choline in their diet to cats. Adult dogs require at least 474mg per kilogram of FRESH food in their diet per day. in terms of dry matter, this value is around 2500mg/kg. Our nutritionists recommend around 800mg per kg of fresh food! Puppies may require a little extra. Sources of Choline When it comes to looking at pet foods on the market, most will contain Choline – however the form the choline is given in, may affect it’s efficacy. Ultra processed foods, such as dry extruded foods, may not be the best source of Choline for your pet; during the manufacture of these foods, the whole food ingredients are subject to high temperatures and multiple processing techniques which can damage nutrient quality and bioavailability. These foods are often sprayed with synthetic vitamins at he end of manufacture in order to reach minimum guidelines. At My Pet Nutritionist, we advocate for a fresh diet, where nutrients are sought mainly through the fresh ingredients included in the recipe. Some fresh food ingredients, rich in Choline, include: Liver – 209mg per 50g Eggs (especially egg yolk!) – 147mg per egg Kidney – 105mg per 50g Cod – 74mg per 50g Beef – 70mg per 50g Pork – 43mg per 50g Poultry – 36mg per 50g Brussels Sprouts – 31mg per 50g Shiitake Mushrooms – 29.7mg per 50g Cauliflower – 22mg per 50g Broccoli – 16mg per 50g Salmon – 11mg per 50g Nuts
Here at My Pet Nutritionist, we consult for a huge number of families with an enormous variety of health concerns in their pets. Once diagnosed by a veterinarian, our packages aim to support your pet with a more natural view. One of the conditions we are asked about a lot, is Hypophosphatemia. This is a condition that occurs in both dogs and cats, so this blog may be a handy read for both owners of cats and dogs. Hypophosphatemia is the clinical term for low phosphorous levels being present in the blood. This condition is far more common in dogs than it is in cats. Hypophosphatemia is associated with a host of other health conditions, and can cause a variety of health conditions in itself. Some of the conditions commonly caused by Hypophosphatemia include: Bone Diseases: Rickets is a bone disease often caused by low phosphorous levels, and is specifically a bone growth disease – it ultimately causes bone softening to occur, as well as deformities, especially in puppies and kittens! Another common bone disease caused by Hypophosphatemia is Osteomalacia which is a very similar bone softening disease, but found more commonly in adults. Muscle Weakness: muscles may become weaker, and the pet may become more physically unstable, and may appear slimmer with little muscle tone. Respiratory problems: in rare, severe cases, respiratory issues can occur as a result of low blood phosphorous. Heart Failure: another rare condition to come of low phosphorous levels, in the more severe cases. Seizures: again, while rare, seizures can occur as a direct result of severe Hypophosphatemia. Findings Here Findings Here Symptoms and Causes The clinical presentation of Hypophosphatemia changes depending on the severity of the deficiency in your pet. The trickier side of these symptoms, is that they are common in a variety of health issues, not just Hypophosphatemia! This can make diagnosis more difficult. If your pet has mild Hypophosphatemia, you can expect to see some of, or all of the following symptoms: Muscle weakness: a change in gait, difficulty climbing stairs, weakness when getting up from a bed or laying position, or difficulty standing for long periods. Reduced, or total loss of appetite: pets may have a reduced appetite, or stop eating all together. Lethargy: unwillingness to be active for usual periods of time. Pets may be less alert. Disorientation: leaning or wobbling when standing may occur Findings Here If your pet has severe Hypophosphatemia, you may see the above symptoms, as well as some of the following: Seizures: neurological activity can occur due to the lack of phosphorous in the blood. Ataxia: loss of coordination is another possible neurological symptom often seen in those with a severe deficiency of phosphorous in the blood. Constipation: this can occur due to paralysis of the intestines, meaning faecal matter cannot be pushed through the digestive system in order to be expelled. This condition is called Ileus. Irregular Heartbeat: arrythmias can be detected by your vet using a stethoscope. This is a symptom of severe blood phosphorous deficiency. Haemolytic anaemia and Haemolysis: abnormalities in red blood cell counts during bloodwork may show red blood cell destruction. These conditions are a symptom of severe Hypophosphatemia. Breathing difficulties: these often come hand in hand with heart conditions, and are a symptom of Hypophosphatemia. Findings Here When we look into the possible causes of Hypophosphatemia, there are a number of possible reasons for it’s onset. Let’s take a look at them: Dietary Deficiencies: if the pet’s diet is lacking in phosphorous, hypophosphatemia is a risk. This may be found in those fed a poor quality diet. Renal Disease: disease in the kidneys can cause hypophosphatemia through two pathways – increased excretion of phosphorous in urine, and reduced ability to reabsorb phosphorous in the kidneys. Hyperparathyroidism: when the parathyroid gland (which is involved in the calcium:phosphorous ratio) is overactive, phosphorous loss is increased. Cushing’s Disease (Hyperadrenocorticism): phosphorous imbalances are common in those with Cushing’s Disease. Fatty Liver Disease (Hepatic Lipidosis): this disease in cats is a contributor to phosphorous loss. Diabetic Ketoacidosis: severe phosphorous loss can be caused by this condition which occurs as a result of complications in diabetic animals. Poor Intestinal Absorption: in those with poor gut health, absorption of phosphorous in the gut can cause deficiencies. Phosphorous Redistribution: deficiencies in phosphorous occur when there is a shift from extracellular fluid (the blood) to intracellular fluid (the cells in the body) Specific Intravenous Therapies: some IV fluids can cause a reduction in phosphorous in the blood. Findings Here Findings Here Findings Here Diagnosis Diagnosis of Hypophosphatemia is a simple process. Your veterinarian will take a blood sample, and analyse it. The test is called a ‘Serum Phosphate Test’. Once this analysis is complete, your vet will inform you as to whether your pet’s phosphorous levels are within the ‘normal’ range of results. Findings Here Conventional Treatment When it comes to treatment your vet may offer, they will first and foremost look at underlying causes. Each individual cause will have a different treatment plan, so it is important to work with your vet on these. Depending on the severity of your pet’s Hypophosphatemia, phosphorous supplementation will be advised. More severe cases may have phosphorous supplementation intravenously, but most cases will be advised to give oral supplements. Some veterinarians will also advise on changing your pet’s diet to one with extra phosphorous. Frequent check ups will be carried out by your veterinary team to keep an eye on your pet’s blood phosphorous levels. Findings Here Findings Here A Natural Approach to Hypophosphatemia As always, our approach is often supported by veterinary care, so we tend to look at this as a complementary approach as opposed to alternative. Here are some of our considerations: Feed fresh: Poor dry food will most likely be lacking in various micronutrients despite its ‘complete and balanced’ label. Nutrient levels may be affected due to the numerous periods of exposure to high heat and the subsequent nutrient loss. Synthetic nutrients are often sprayed
Here at My Pet Nutritionist, we consult with dogs and cats with a huge variety of health concerns, from digestive problems to dental problems, and everything in between! One of the dental concerns we see, affects both cats and dogs – tooth resorption. It is estimated that around 60% of cats (pure-bred cats seem to suffer the most), and 40% of dogs will be affected by Tooth Resorption by the time they turn 6 years old! There are various layers to the tooth, starting from the outer surface to the very inside of the tooth, the layers are: Enamel: a thin, white, hard layer which protects the sensitive insides of the tooth Dentin: a tick, softer layer of tissues beneath the enamel, containing microscopic tubules which lead to the nerves in the tooth. Pulp chamber: the powerhouse of the tooth. The pulp creates dentin, and also provides the dentin with nutrients to keep it healthy. This chamber is commonly known as the ‘root canal’ as it extends to the root of the tooth. Cementum: a hard surface anchoring the tooth to the gum. The gum also has multiple layers. Starting from the outer surface visible to the eye to the inside of the gum, the layers are: Gingival Margin: this part keeps the teeth securely in place. Gingival Sulcus: attaches the gum to the tooth. Cemento Enamel Junction: the area where the tooth meets the gum. Periodontal Ligament: attaches the tooth to the jaw. Pets with Tooth Resorption suffer from erosion of their dentin, which ultimately becomes destroyed. This process cannot be reversed! Gradually, more and more of the tooth is affected, becoming destroyed, and appearing to absorb into the gum. Findings Here Findings Here There are many types of Tooth Resorption in both cats, and dogs. Types in cats Type 1: Normal density is maintained, and Periodontal Ligament is unchanged. Resorption is in the Cemento Enamel Junction. Destruction occurs toward the root, or in a side to side direction. Type 2: Narrowing at the Periodontal Ligament area, and the tooth root becomes as dense as the surrounding bone. Type 3: a combination of Types 1 and 2 – teeth also become multicoloured. Types in Dogs External Replacement Resorption: most common form in dogs. The ligament space and root of the tooth change dramatically. External Inflammatory Resorption: the tooth roots are very inflamed. External Cervical Root Surface Resorption: lesions are present around the Cemento enamel junction. External Surface Resorption: the very edges of the tooth root may show on x-rays to be slightly uneven. No other clinical symptoms show. Internal Inflammatory Resorption: oval shaped swellings grow in the root of the tooth. Often caused by dental disease. Internal Surface Resorption: oval shaped swellings form further up the tooth root. May be caused by trauma, but are extremely rare. Internal Replacement Resorption: incredibly rare in pets. Progressive condition. Tunnel-like areas form as a result of tooth root fractures. Findings Here Findings Here Symptoms and Causes Outward symptoms are rarely noticeable in most cases of tooth resorption, making diagnosis often difficult. As pet owners, we need to be really vigilant when it comes to oral health. Regular teeth cleaning is important; and as part of your regular husbandry regime, practicing touching your dog or cat’s tooth may be more important than you may think! One of the few signs that your pet may be suffering with tooth resorption, is pain when the tooth is touched. Other signs include: Increase in drooling Head shaking Reduction of appetite (due to pain when eating) Gingivitis/bleeding from the mouth Face rubbing Gagging Frequent sneezing In progressed cases, tooth fractures are possible – this is largely down to potential damage to the crown of the tooth due to loss of structural tissues. As a result of tooth resorption, your pet may suffer with oral infections – this is due to lesions forming on the tooth crown making the inner tooth accessible by bad bacteria. Very little is known about causes of tooth resorption. While many studies have been carried out, no specific cause has been pinpointed. During these studies, it was found that cells known as ‘odontoclasts’ are responsible for breaking down the hard tooth tissues. Findings Here Findings Here Diagnosis The process of diagnosis is usually simple when a dog shows signs of tooth resorption. Firstly , your veterinarian will discuss your dog’s symptoms, and run a physical examination of your dog’s mouth/teeth. Some veterinarians will run an additional examination under general anaesthetic to be able to get a more thorough look/feel of your dog’s teeth and gums. Next, they will take X-rays of your dog’s teeth. The X-rays will enable them to tell if your dog does have tooth resorption, and how severe the individual’s case is. Conventional Treatment Once your cat or dog has received their diagnoses of Tooth Resorption, treatment must be prompt due to this condition being particularly painful. The treatment offered by your veterinarian will depend on the type of resorption your pet has, and also the severity. Some pets may be referred to a veterinary dentist for treatment. In the event that the condition has progressed rapidly, or too far for the tooth to remain stable, the affected unstable tooth/teeth will be removed. This is a surgical procedure carried out under anaesthetic. In some cases, only part of a tooth is removed, if the veterinary dentist, or veterinary surgeon feels this is in the pet’s best interest. If your pet’s condition is not so advanced, and their teeth are still stable in the gum, treatment mostly involves frequent oral health check ups to check if any intervention is needed yet. Another treatment offered in select cases whereby the tooth is saveable, is root canal treatment. Again, this is a procedure carried out under anaesthetic. During root canal treatment, pulp is removed from the root canal, which is then cleaned, and filled with dental material. The aim of this treatment is to slow the progression of tooth resorption. As this
We love our feline friends here at My Pet Nutritionist, and one of the most commonly asked questions we get from concerned cat owners, is ‘does my indoor cat need different nutrition to cats who free-roam outside?’. Many cat owners keep their cats indoors for many reasons, from expensive pedigree breeds, to moggies. Some cats may live indoors for their own safety away from main roads, some may live indoors to help control medical needs, and some may live indoors, simply down to their breed. So, are there any different needs for these cats, versus the ones you may encounter when out and about? We will discuss this in this blog post, and help to put your mind at ease! Nutritional Needs Cats Are Carnivores Our kitty companions are what we call ‘obligate carnivores’. There are two types of carnivore (meat eaters); facultative, and obligate. Facultative carnivores (the likes of dogs and other canids) eat primarily meat, but may benefit from a little plant matter. Obligate carnivores are meat eaters that eat, and thrive on a purely meat diet with no plant matter at all. Our cats do not need vegetables or fruits to thrive. This is very much the same for indoor and outdoor cats – those with outdoor cats may often find their cats will even catch their own prey; some may even eat it, but many will bring their owner a ‘gift’ – how kind of them! Calorie Content While indoor and outdoor cats require the same nutrients, many indoor cat owners may notice their pets need a smaller portion of food vs their outdoor counterparts. Outdoor cats often tend to be more active than those with a purely indoor lifestyle, which of course burns more calories, meaning outdoor cats, particularly those who are more active and enjoy hunting or walking longer distances, may need larger meals than those who live a more sedentary lifestyle in the home. Protein Both indoor and outdoor cats need a high protein diet. Protein is incredibly important in the diet of cats, as it is one of the main energy sources used to maintain blood glucose levels due to metabolic adaptations carried by the cat. Protein is not only used to maintain blood glucose levels, but for general energy too; even in those who are fed a diet lacking in protein, resulting in rapid weight loss. This is seen very frequently in older cats fed a commercial dry food diet, as these are very high in carbs, and lack quality meat proteins. Amino acids are the building blocks of proteins, and there are 11 amino acids that are absolutely essential for cats; but there is one of particular importance, and that is Taurine. Taurine is used throughout the feline body to maintain healthy vision, aid cardiac muscle strength and contractions, maintain a healthy reproductive system, and keep the immune system in tip top condition. The protein content of your cat’s diet should remain the same regardless of being an indoor, or an outdoor cat, the source of the protein may need to be tweaked though, depending on activity levels, due to different amounts of fat per protein, which brings us nicely onto fats in the diet of indoor vs outdoor cats. Fat Now, fat is one of the most important nutrients in your cat’s diet! Fat is the main energy source for general activity in cats. When seeking out a meat suitable for your cat, it is important to consider your pet’s lifestyle, age and activity levels. A more sedentary indoor cat, will need a protein lower in fat than an active outdoor cat, as feeding a cat that is not very active, a meat with a high fat content will result in the energy creates not being used, and your pet could end up overweight. Chicken, turkey or white fish may be a better option than beef, as an example, for those with a less active lifestyle. Regardless of your cat being and inside, or outside cat, omega 3 fatty acids are a very important part of your cat’s diet! With cats eating meat, and lots of it, their natural intake of pro-inflammatory omega 6 fatty acids will be high. We need to balanced this out with added anti-inflammatory omega 3 fatty acids, in order to reduce inflammation in the body. You can read more about choosing an ideal omega 3 for your cat here! Furball Control Due to being indoors, and away from environmental temperature changes that naturally occur throughout the year, indoor cats tend to shed noticeably more than outdoor cats, and all year around, too! This bring the higher chance of furballs – with the telltale retching noise our furry friends do when they have consumed too much fur through regular grooming! In order to help these furballs pass easily through the gut, indoor cats often require a diet higher in fibre than those who roam freely outside. Supplements high in insoluble fibre can be included in the diet of indoor cats, or outdoor cats prone to furballs, in order to help them pass through the digestive tract with ease, and reduce the risk of intestinal blockage. Although indoor cats are obligate carnivores, insoluble fibre can be sought through feeding a very small amount of plant matter, or a cellulose (the fibrous substance making the cell wall of plant cells) supplement. Stress In Indoor Cats It is thought that indoor cats may also be subject to stress, particularly when their owner leaves them. Indoor cats can be very loyal, and very much attached to their owner, leaving them with the chance of separation anxiety. While this concept isn’t set in stone, and more research is needed to confirm it, it certainly is a possibility. Outdoor cats may also come into stressful situations when they meet other cats, or environmental challenges. There are nutrients we can include in our cat’s diet to help reduce stress, such as: Vitamin B6 which helps the body create red blood cells
The pet food market is such a crowded place, and can feel like quite the minefield! With so many types of foods, different marketing strategies, complex looking labels and ingredients lists, it’s no wonder so many people come to us here at My Pet Nutritionist worrying about what to feed their dogs or cats! Of course, we always recommend fresh food, but some owners may be unable to for various reasons; all types of pet food have to follow the legal guidelines for labelling, so we are here to help you decipher pet food labels! What Is The Difference Between Complementary, And Complete? When looking at the many pet foods available, from dry kibble, to cold pressed, to freeze dried, airdried, wet or raw options, you may notice some will say ‘complete’ and others will be ‘complementary’. You can learn about the types of foods available on the market here. A ‘complete’ food will contain all the basic nutrition needed for its target species to survive on, whether that is through the use of synthetic micronutrients, or fresh sources of these nutrients. In terms of raw and fresh feeding, this will usually mean there are fruits and vegetables added to the raw meat, bone and offal, and usually an omega source too. If a dry food states this, there is usually some form of ‘added’ vitamins and minerals, often synthetically. Omega 3 is often lacking, even in ‘complete’ dry foods, as they are inherently inflammatory. A ‘complementary’ food, usually in the form of a premade 80-10-10 raw food, a pure meat wet food, or a ‘mixer biscuit’, means more ingredients are required to be added to make the diet complete, and provide nutrition required for an animal to thrive. Those feeding an ultra-processed diet including a ‘complementary’ dry option, will often be instructed to feed an accompanying wet food by the manufacturer. Those feeding a ‘complementary’ wet or raw food, will be encouraged to feed a mixture of fruits and vegetables alongside the food, and add in an omega source. Some ‘complementary’ wet foods also require additional calcium to be added.xx We have a fantastic blog post, all about balancing an 80-10-10 raw food, which you can read here. The Order of Ingredients on Labels The ingredients on dog food labels are ordered just the same as those on human food labels – the highest amount of any single ingredient in the food is the first on the list, whereas the last ingredient is that which occurs the least in the food. Some manufacturers put percentages of each ingredient, but this isn’t law, so many don’t. When a percentage is in brackets, it is as part of the ingredient it’s next to – so when a label states ‘meat and animal derivatives (chicken 4%)’ it means there’s 4% chicken, and the rest of the meat and animal derivatives are of unknown origin. Legally, dog food manufacturers do not need to declare what preservatives are used. Those who state ‘preservatives’ and ‘antioxidants’ will often use low quality, synthetic, often carcinogenic chemicals. How Much Meat Is In My Pet’s Food? Pet food labelling can be very misleading, and very clever in terms of informing the consumer of the meat content. Obviously with out obligate carnivore cats, and our facultative carnivorous dogs, meat is the most important part of the diet, so owners will often look at the flavour of a dog or cat food, and assume the main ingredient is that meat! Sadly this isn’t the case, and with clever wording, manufacturers are able to pull the wool over most pet owners’ eyes! Here is what the very careful labelling really means! If a product says ‘chicken flavour’ there is 0% to 3% chicken. If a product says ‘with chicken’, it has 4% chicken. If a product says ‘chicken’, it has at least 26% chicken. Similarly, if a product says ‘chicken AND beef’, there will be at least 26% of each meat, whereas when a product says ‘chicken WITH beef’, there will be at least 26% chicken and 4% beef. The subtle differences, of literally just one word, can make all the difference to the food’s quality! Working Out The Carb Content When you look on pet food labels, you may notice the ‘composition’ or ‘analytical constituants’ is listed – this includes the percentage of the food that is protein, crude fibre, crude oils and fats, crude ash, and moisture. You may notice there is one macronutrient missing here – the one we want to limit or eliminate; carbohydrates! By not listing the carb content of a food, it makes it harder for consumers to see the percentage of carbs in the food – higher percentages will likely put the buyer off. Most dry foods are between 40 and 60% carbohydrates! So how do we work out how much of a food is carbohydrate? This involves a very simple maths problem. Simply subtract the listed percentages of protein, fats/oils, fibre, ash and moisture from 100. The answer will give you the percentage of carbohydrates in the food. What Does ‘Crude’ Mean? When it comes to pet food labelling, ‘crude’ simply means ‘total’. So the ‘crude protein’ in a food, is the total amount of protein in a food, regardless of it’s source. The ‘crude fat’ in a food, is the total amount of fat in a food, regardless of the source. Is There Really ‘Ash’ In My Pet’s Food? Yes, and no – by ‘ash’, it doesn’t mean the manufacturer has added in a load of fire waste. Ash in pet food is the minerals and vitamins in a food. Strange term to describe some vitamins and minerals isn’t it? But there is method to the madness! When a food is analysed to work out the analytical constituents/composition, it is burnt in a special furnace, which weighs the content as it burns. As the food burns, it’s mass and weight will reduce gradually. Once the weight reaches a constant, and doesn’t
Naturally, many pet parents come to us, here at My Pet Nutritionist, having received abnormal blood and urine test results. Abnormal readings in our pets’ results, whether high or low, can be extremely worrying for many of us humans; one of the conditions shown through an abnormally low blood test result, is Hypoglycaemia. This blog looks at what it is, how to spot it, what causes it, what the vet may offer, and how you can support the body through diet and therapeutic supplements. What is Hypoglycaemia? If we break down the word ‘hypoglycaemia’ into three parts, we know what this condition entails. ‘Hypo’ means ‘under’ or ‘less’, ‘Glyc’ relates to ‘glucose’ (a monosaccharide carbohydrate; a type of sugar that can be used for energy but must be consumed for it to be present in the body. It is stored as Glycogen), and ‘aemia’ related to ‘blood’. Hypoglycaemia is a metabolic condition diagnosed when your pet has low blood sugar, or low blood glucose readings to be precise! In healthy dogs, the blood glucose level should be between 3.3 and 6.1mmol/L. If your pet’s blood results come back having a blood glucose concentration lower than 3.3mmol/L, your pet has hypoglycaemia, and requires medical attention, and may benefit in many cases from a diet change. Which we will discuss later in this blog. As glucose is one of the main sources of energy, a lack of it can affect various organs in the body, including the brain! Findings Here Symptoms of Hypoglycaemia There are a range of symptoms associated with hypoglycaemia in cats and dogs. If you see any of these symptoms in your pet, seek veterinary assistance as soon as possible! Symptoms you may see include: Reduced appetite Fatigue and lethargy Excessive water consumption (polydipsia) Excessive urination (polyuria) Reduced coordination, and slow response times Rear end weakness, or complete loss of use Seizure activity, including mild tremors, involuntary twitching, and full seizures Neurologically associated symptoms listed above, and reduced willingness to move or exercise are often the earliest signs of hypoglycaemia. Causes of Hypoglycaemia So what could cause your pet to get low blood glucose concentration readings? There are two categories we need to look at here – physiological reasons, and pathological reasons. Let’s start with physiological reasons why your pet’s blood glucose levels may be low: Overworking/extreme exercise. This is often referred to as ‘hunting dog hypoglycaemia’, and happens mostly in dogs as opposed to cats, but can happen in cats too! Overworked pets will use all available glucose for energy, then reserves of glucose in the body are diminished, causing the aforementioned symptoms. These dogs often have inadequate glycogen stores for the amount of work they are asked to do. Malnutrition. Now, malnutrition can be many things – It can be a lack of appropriate diet, the lack of enough food/calories, or even excess portions/calories. In the case of hypoglycaemia, pets with an inadequate dietary consumption of glucose end up with depleted glycogen stores as they use these for energy. Small Stature/Anorexia. Young smaller breed puppies, or juvenile toy breed dogs can be at a greater risk of hypoglycaemia. In cats, anorexia is a possible cause of hypoglycaemia. This is because they have limited muscle mass and body fat, meaning glycogen stores are limited, and blood glucose is used up very quickly. Toxicity. Whether it’s toxicity associated with medications/drugs, consumption of xylitol, or other toxic substances, in some cases in both dogs and cats, hypersecretion of insulin occurs, which lowers blood glucose levels. Similarly, if a diabetic pet has been given two doses of insulin too close together, hypoglycaemia may occur. Extreme vomiting. This is one of the most common reasons a cat may have low blood glucose concentrations, but is possible in dogs too. As the pet vomits excessively, blood glucose is used, and ultimately this causes depletion of glycogen stores in the body. Findings Here Findings Here Moving onto pathological causes of hypoglycaemia in pets, there are many endocrine and hepatic diseases associated with low blood glucose concentration in pets. Let’s take a look at these: Diabetes. This is one of the most common causes of hypoglycaemia in both cats and dogs. When the body produces too much insulin, or the pet is given too much insulin in the event of a hyperglycaemic attack, glucose production is decreased, and hypoglycaemia occurs. You can read more about diabetes in dogs here. Severe hepatic disease. Whether your pat has hepatitis, cirrhosis of the liver, neoplasia or any other liver disease, hypoglycaemia is a risk. The liver plays a role in glucose storage, in the form of glycogen – this is called hepatic gluconeogenesis. When the liver is diseased, it is unable to perform this function, leading to low glycogen storage, and therefore, low blood glucose concentration. Both cats and dogs can fall victim to these issues. Portosystemic Shunt. This also causes hepatic gluconeogenesis to decrease, as the vein transporting blood to and from the intestines and heart, bypasses the liver. This is seen more commonly in dogs than cats. Hypoadrenocorticism (Addison’s Disease). This disease is associated with the endocrine system. The counter regulatory hormone, Cortisol, plays a huge role in keeping glucose levels stable in the bloodstream, however in cases of Hypoadrenocorticism, when the adrenal gland which releases cortisol is unable to do so, glucose production is inhibited. This can happen in both cats and dogs. Hypopituitarism. Another endocrine condition, this time affecting the pituitary gland, and it’s ability to release relevant hormones. When the gland is unable to produce and release other counter-regulatory hormones, this time being Growth Hormone and adrenocorticotropic hormone, the glycogen stores are diminished as glucose production is slower than the rate it is being used at. Both cats and dogs can be at risk of this pathway. Islet Cell Hyperplasia and Insulinoma. These are two conditions related to the excessive secretion of insulin. Insulin in high amounts makes the body use excessive amounts of glucose, which lowers the blood glucose concentration. These
At My Pet Nutritionist, we help a lot of worried pets owners who’s feline and canine companions have a condition called Pica. Pica can be indirectly life threatening, so we are here to raise awareness of what it is, why it happens, and how we can reduce risk in your pets! What is Pica, and What Causes It? Pica is a compulsive behavioural condition, whereby the pet craves inedible objects. Being a compulsive behavioural disorder, Pica can be very tricky to combat, and requires the help of one, or many professionals, from force free behaviourists to pet nutritionists like us. Underlying illnesses can very much trigger pica in pets, and this is the side we can help you with most. Some of the items commonly ingested by pets with Pica include stones/rocks, dirt, garbage, paper, socks, other fabric items, even walls and plasterboard, or licking paintwork. Faeces is another, which we delve a little deeper into next! As the items often consumed by pets with Pica are often not digestible, they can cause a host of symptoms relating to gut damage, gastric ulceration, internal blockages, and other internal health worries. Symptoms of a secondary health problem include: Vomiting Constipation Diarrhoea Fishy or metallic breath Excessive drinking Excessive drooling Lip licking ‘Downward dog’ position, denoting gastrointestinal pain Burping Changes in behaviour (dogs will often seem ‘low’, cats will often hide) Lethargy When it comes to underlying medical causes of Pica, there are quite a few conditions that can be associated, such as: Lack of nutritional balance leading to malnutrition (likely the most common cause) Kidney disease Immune Mediated Haemolytic Anaemia (IMHA) Parasitic burdens Inflammatory Bowed Disease (IBD) or Lymphatic Gastritis Iron Deficiency Over active thyroid (hyperthyroidism) Diabetes Leaky Gut/poor gut health Gastrointestinal tumours Findings Here Findings Here Those on certain anti seizure medications such as phenobarbital, some pain medications, corticosteroid medications, and some anti-cancer treatments like chemotherapy may also experience Pica. Findings Here Findings Here If we look at causes from a behavioural point of view, it can be particularly common in those with separation anxiety, those lacking mental or physical stimulation, and those lacking appropriate socialization leading to stress. These are all areas to be worked on with a qualified, force free behaviourist, for which specialists in both dogs and cats are available. Coprophagia, A Type of Pica Now, those who are serial faeces eaters, do still have Pica, but a specific type of Pica, known as Coprophagia. Coprophagy occurs more in females than it does in males, and more commonly in dogs than cats. Coprophagy can be normal, specifically in the case of a mother dog with puppies. When nursing a litter of puppies, mother dogs are instinctively clean, and consume their puppy’s excrement for the first few weeks. It is not normal for adult pets who are not nursing litters, to eat faecal matter – this is when coprophagy is not expected, and needs looking into. Findings Here A Side Note on Puppies We feel it is important to mention puppies, specifically. While Pica is indeed, very dangerous in many cases, puppies do explore the world with their mouth! Puppies will often chew inedible items, and ingest parts of toys, socks, splinters of wood from items of furniture they’ve ‘kindly’ redesigned for you; this is quite normal in young and adolescent puppies, and may not follow through to adulthood where Pica becomes an obsessive problem, where underlying illness should be ruled out. To give your puppy the best chance of not ingesting inedible artifacts, ensure plenty of rest is enforced, as well as plenty of mental stimulation. A strong ‘leave it’ command can be majorly beneficial too, and what a better time to instil this, than as a puppy?! Diagnosis and Treatment If you suspect your pet has Pica, it is important to seek veterinary guidance as your first point of call, as acting on the potential for underlying health conditions is important. Similarly, if your dog or cat is experiencing any of the aforementioned symptoms, veterinary help is likely required to reduce the risk of death due to internal blockage. So how is it diagnosed by the vet? Your veterinarian will look at your pet’s medical history – if you have been able to keep a diary of food and behaviour alongside symptoms, this can really aid your vet! A physical examination may be performed, which will feel everything from your dog’s body condition to their lymph nodes. The dog’s mouth will be checked to rule our dental issues, and their heart and lungs will be listened to via stethoscope. Full panel blood tests, and urinalyses may be carried out too, for a more internal approach to diagnostics of underlying health conditions. If the vet feels a blockage is occurring in your pet, they may perform an ultrasound or x-ray, followed by potential surgery for treatment of this issue. Treatments wise, the suitable treatment for any diagnosed internal, underlying condition will be discussed and prescribed. If your vet does not feel surgery or pharmaceutical treatment will be beneficial to your pet, they will likely refer you to a veterinary behaviourist, or other force free behaviourist. How Can We Reduce Risks? In order to reduce the risk of harm from objects consumed by those suffering with Pica, there are a number of precautions we can look at taking – these stem from both a training perspective, and a diet perspective! Training Aids It may seem obvious, but it is incredibly important that we monitor our pets’ actions, especially if they are known to suffer with Pica. Teaching a solid ‘leave it’ command using positive reinforcement is essential. Discuss this with your trainer – it can be learnt at any age. Muzzle training is important for all dogs! This is trickier for cats, but cat muzzles are available to buy. Muzzle training not only means your dog is comfortable in their muzzle, which acts as a barrier between their mouth and the inedible items they like to consume,
Omega oils are one of the most important components of your pet’s diet, but with such variety of products on the market, aimed both at animals and humans, how do we know which to opt for? Here at My Pet Nutritionist, we recommend a variety of different products from various different brands, and for many different reasons! This blog past aims to help you choose the right omega source for your pets, and explains how to tell one product from the next! What Are Omegas? Omegas are Fatty Acids with a huge variety of uses within the body. Cell membranes are partly formed by Omegas, which deems them an essential nutrient for all living beings. Brain and heart health are both aided by omegas, as well as weight management and cognitive development during puppyhood, and as seniors. Omegas also control part of the body’s inflammatory response, making them useful for joint health, as well as aiding the management of, prevention of, or treatment of many health conditions. Omega Fatty Acids come in three types: Omega 3 and Omega 6 fatty acids are both classed as ‘essential’ nutrients Omega 9 is classed as non-essential but is beneficial to include in the diet So how do the three types of omegas differ chemically? Each different type of omega has not only a different chemical structure, but they have a different amount of saturation of fat. Let’s take a look at their differences a bit more closely. Omega 3 Fatty Acids are ‘polyunsaturated’, which means there is more than one unsaturated carbon bond. In a diagram of chemical structure, you will see two or more ‘double bonds’ between carbon atoms, with a hydrogen atom missing. These polyunsaturated fatty acids cannot be produced by the body, and must be consumed in the diet. Omega 6 Fatty Acids are also ‘polyunsaturated’, however two of the Omega 6 Fatty Acids are able to be produced by the body, leaving the third needing to be consumed in the diet. Omega 9 Fatty Acids are ‘monounsaturated’, which means there is only one unsaturated carbon bond. In a diagram of chemical structure, you would see only one ‘double bond’ with no hydrogen attached to the carbon atoms. These fatty acids can be produced by the body, which makes them non-essential in the diet. We mentioned that some omegas play a role in the body’s inflammatory response, so let’s discuss which ones are inflammatory, and which are anti-inflammatory. Omegas 3 and 9 have some fantastic anti-inflammatory effects on the body, which aids joint health, and is also a contributor to the reduced risk of cancers. There is also one Omega 6 fatty acid which is anti-inflammatory. The names and health roles of these anti-inflammatory Omega 3, 6 and 9 Fatty Acids are as follows: Eicosapentaenoic Acid (EPA): Omega 3 Fatty Acid playing a role in general reduction in inflammation. Alpha-linolenic Acid (ALA): Omega 3 Fatty Acid playing a role in heart and immune health. Docosahexaenoic Acid (DHA): Omega 3 Fatty Acid playing a role in brain health and cognitive development. Gamma-linolenic Acid (GLA): Omega 6 Fatty Acid aiding the control of hormones. Oleic Acid (OA): Omega 9 Fatty Acid plays a large role in prevention of cancer and heart disease, and reduction of cholesterol. The other Omega 6 Fatty Acids are inflammatory, which negate the omega 3, and vice versa. It is very much a balancing act of omega 3 and 6 consumption, to receive the benefits of omega 6, but keep inflammation to a minimum. Linolenic Acid (LA): Omega 6 Fatty Acid which helps to prevent heart disease, keep a regular heartbeat, and potential to prevent blood clots. Arachidonic Acid (ARA): Omega 6 Fatty Acid which as an important signalling molecule, plays a huge role in the mediation of many cellular functions such as remodelling actin, a extremely important protein in some cells in the body, useful for protein-protein interactions. Findings Here Findings Here Findings Here Sources of Omega Where can we find these all important Omegas in order to add them into our pet’s diets? There are so many sources of Omegas, some good, some not so advisable. They are found in many forms, from fresh foods, to extracted oils which come in capsules, or in a large bottle, usually with a pump. There are meat based sources of omegas, and there are plant based sources of omegas. Some of the most popular sources of each type of Omega 3, 6 or 9 Fatty Acid we have discussed so far in this blog post, are: Eicosapentaenoic Acid (EPA): found in fatty fish and fish oils, as well as many algal oils. Alpha-linolenic Acid (ALA): found in flaxseed oil, chia seeds, walnut oil, perilla oil or oysters. Docosahexaenoic Acid (DHA): found in fatty fish , fish oils and algae oils, and eggs. Gamma-linolenic Acid (GLA): found in Hempseed oil, borage oil (to be given with caution, in small quantities only), and evening primrose oil (to be given with caution, and not to be given to epileptic pets) Linolenic Acid (LA): found in sunflower oil, some nuts, seeds, olive oil, flaxseed, avocado oil (though the amount here is low) and eggs. Arachidonic Acid (ARA): found in meat and poultry, particularly farmed. Oleic Acid (OA): found in olive oil, some fish oils, and some nuts. What to Look Out For When it comes to picking an omega source for our pets, as with anything, most of us want to make an informed decision to pick the absolute best for our furry friends! With such huge variety of Omega products on the market, how to we know what is best? How is one product different to another? As with many dietary additions, there are many qualities to look out for or avoid in different products. Not all products are equal in quality, so that’s where we come in handy – keep reading for pointers on selecting a source of omegas for your pets! Fresh Food Sources As with most things we
In our previous blog post, we wrote about exposure to environmental hazards in the home, garden, and local parks. Environmental hazards are around us the vast majority of the time, and not only in the home, garden, or on local open green spaces, but at beaches, around lakes, and in woodland areas too. How can we keep our pets safe from these environmental hazards? Read on in this blog post to find out what the potential hazards are, and how we can keep our furry family members safe! Around Lakes, Ponds and Streams Starting with water bodies – whether your pet is exposed to lakes, ponds or streams, there is potential for exposure to hazards! Blue-Green Algae More and more pet owners are becoming aware of blue-green algae blooms; but why should we avoid them? How do they form? Blue-green algae, also often referred to as Cyanobacteria, is a type of gram-negative bacteria, which presents much like an algae, which is why it’d informally known as blue-green algae. It forms in blooms, much like algal blooms, in lakes and ponds – usually still bodies of water. Conditions for the bacteria to thrive will differ from water body to water body, which is why it’s not present in every lake or pond you may come across. Contributing factors to it’s growth include water clarity, temperature, availability of sunlight, and availability of sufficient nutrients for bacterial growth. Typically, blue-green algae is seen between the months of May and September, as these months are when the conditions are generally suitable for bacterial growth. When walking near still bodies of water, you should look out for a discolouration to the water itself – the colour can range anywhere from neon green, to pea green, to blueish green, to a rusty reddish brown colour (not to be confused with the rusty coloured streams often seen in parts of the UK, which are caused by iron contamination, and a different type of bacteria), and the smell given off is quite unique; it often smells like pungent rotting food; certainly not a pleasant smell! Blooms of blue-green algae can be highly toxic to both humans and animals, due to toxins found in the bacteria. There is a variety of possible health problems that can come from blue-algae poisoning, ranging from mild to severe, such as: Rashes on the skin Nausea and vomiting Downward dog position (denoting abdominal pain) Diarrhoea High temperature Liver damage Kidney damage Neurological damage How do we avoid the risks associated with blue-green algae? When you are walking near still bodies of water, particularly in the aforementioned months, it is wise to keep your dog on a lead, at least until you have fully checked the water for contamination, or discolouration. If you suspect there is a bloom in the area you;re walking in, ensure your pet (and any human children!) keeps well away from it. Do not let them drink from the water body, nor swim in it. Some councils do put up signage in places where there are frequent blooms of cyanobacteria, but it is important not to rely on these! There is an application for mobile phones called “Bloomin’ Algae”, which is well worth downloading, as it shows reports of algal blooms. Sewerage Leaks and Other Contaminants Another risk of lakes and other water bodies, is sadly, and rather disgustingly, sewerage leaks and chemical contamination. It happens more than we care to imagine, and is pretty self explanatory. When sewers leak in to streams, toxic waste is transported down stream, and into any larger water bodies the stream leads to. With regard to chemical contamination, every now and then, you may hear of such an event on your local news, whereby a company or individual has disposed of toxic waste into a stream, whether by accident or on purpose. Depending on the spillage and type of contaminant, a host of health risks are present, from skin rashes, to vomiting and diarrhoea, to potential poisoning and internal organ damage. How can we avoid these areas? It can be tricky to tell if the stream you may be walking near has been contaminated, so it’s wise to keep an eye and ear open on local news channels, in newspapers, and on local community social media groups. Some water companies will map out sewerage and other contamination points, and their potential direction of travel, and display this on their websites and/or social media. Some may also offer an alert system for local residents to sign up to – this is worth investigating and signing up to any facilities for your area. Avoid walking in or near these places. Water Intoxication An example of an often overlooked environmental hazard your dog could be exposed to is water toxicity. Now, unlike the other hazards around lakes, ponds and streams, water toxicity doesn’t involve any contamination, and can happen even in the cleanest of water bodies! So what is water intoxication, if there is nothing toxic in the water? When a dog consumes too much water in a short amount of time, it can lead to water intoxication, scientifically known as hyponatremia. During play time in lakes and ponds, dogs can take in a huge amount of water, especially when retrieving items. When a dog takes in too much water in a short amount of time, the body loses sodium, which in turn causes cells to fill with water, and swell. Cells swelling throughout the body, but especially in the brain, can be fatal. Symptoms of water intoxication include: Vomiting Difficulty breathing Lethargy Glazed eyes Lack of coordination Excessive salivation Seizure activity Bloating Loss of consciousness What can we do to avoid water intoxication? It may seem pretty self explanatory, but in order to reduce the risk of water being ingested too fast, we must be careful with how we interact with our dogs when they are enjoying the use of ponds and lakes. Try to avoid throwing items for them to catch or retrieve –
Here at My Pet Nutritionist, we understand the importance of keeping your pets healthy. As we often write about, keeping the gut healthy and feeding a fresh balanced diet are two steps toward a full picture of health. The world around us is sadly a very toxic place, with us and our pets being surrounded by environmental hazards at nearly all times! How can we avoid this exposure? What can we do to negate the potential effects of environmental toxins and hazards? This bumper two-part blog post will look at a host of potential dangers in a variety of environments you may frequent regularly with your pets in tow, how you can reduce exposure to these, and what we can do to help the body cope with it’s environment. Part 1 looks at hazards in the home, garden, and local parklands. Click here for Part 2, which will look at hazards in and around lakes, woodlands, and beaches. Domestic Environment The first of our areas of exposure to environmental hazards, is the place you and your pets probably spend most of your time; at home, or even in other people’s homes, cafes, and shops. All the indoors places. Your pet may be exposed to a huge variety of environmental hazards when inside, so let’s take a look at some of these. Cleaning Products Take a look at the cleaning products you use in your home. You may have floor cleaners, bleach, surface cleaners, laundry detergent, laundry softener, laundry scent boosters, carpet cleaners, stain removal products, window cleaning sprays, dishwasher tablets; the list goes on! When you think about every cleaning product used in your home, you can really begin to see how exposed your pet might be to them! Every surface they touch, the air they breathe – it all contributes to exposure. Now, take a look at the ingredients label on each product. Can you easily identify each ingredient? Are there some long, science-y looking words you haven’t heard of before? It’s quite likely! Next have a look at the warning label; what warnings does the product come with? Irritation to skin or eyes, hazard to health, hazardous to the environment, corrosive, acute toxicity; these are all common warnings on household cleaning products! Some of the more worrying ingredients often used in cleaning products are: Ammonia Chlorine Bleach Isopropyl Alcohol Formaldehyde Pine But my bottle says ‘pet friendly’… sadly, the ‘pet friendly’ qualities of a product, merely mean that the product won’t kill your pet if used correctly. Just because a product is pet friendly, doesn’t mean that exposure to it can cause some health issues in pets, including most commonly, skin issues, and sometimes breathing issues too. Conventional cleaning products can cause so many problems in pets through exposure by touching, inhaling or ingesting, including: Burns to the skin, throat or gastrointestinal system Dry skin, rashes and itching Interdigital cysts Lethargy Vomiting and diarrhoea Seizures/neurological abnormalities Stomach ulcers Your dog or cat may breathe in particles of sprays, lick flooring or textiles, lick their fur or paws after contact with cleaning chemicals, have direct contact with chemicals by walking through the house or laying on furnishings etc. What can we do to reduce exposure to these products? Lots! You can make lots of excellent switches in your home, to more natural products, without the risk of nasty side affects if ingested, inhaled, or touched. Some handy ideas are as follows: Provilan Probiotic Cleaning Products from Ingenious Probiotics (in the UK – other suppliers may be available) are a fantastic range of natural cleaning products, with the added bonus of good bacteria in the form of probiotics. The bacteria outcompetes/eats the bad bacteria in the area being cleaned, and is completely unharmful for pets! No only are they safe, but they’re beneficial too! Baking soda (bicarbonate of soda) mixed with water can be used to scrub places like toilets, sinks, ovens etc White vinegar or apple cider vinegar mixed with water can be great for cleaning hard surfaces, and soft furnishings. Home Fragrance Home fragrance is a big, but important topic when it comes to hazardous exposure to our pets! We all want out homes to smell nice – walking in your front door to be hit with a beautiful fragrance of apple, geranium, freesia, or whatever you most prefer is just the loveliest thing… however; is it doing the health our pets any favours (or us for that matter!)? It may not be! The vast majority of scents in the home, whether it’s through the burning of candles, plug in diffusers, reed diffusers, or room sprays, contain VOCs – Volatile Organic Compounds. These VOCs can be quite a hazard to the health of us and our pets, not to mention the behavioural side of it for our fluffy dependants! Health risks of VOCs include: Eye, nose and throat irritation Headaches Loss of coordination Nausea Potential damage to the liver Potential damage to the kidneys Potential neurological damage Cancer (some, not all, VOCs are known to be carcinogenic) Birth defects Fertility issues How can we have a nice smelling home, without the VOC risks? First, ditch the diffusers, plug ins, candles and room sprays! Here’s some handy hints and tips to help your home smell nice, without the risks: Vacuum daily Invest in a good air purifying unit, appropriate to the size of the area you want it to cover. Pop a pan of water on the stove. Add in your favourite natural scent providing materials, such as cinnamon sticks, orange peel, lemon peel, cloves, star anise, lavender, thyme, or whatever fresh ingredients really take your fancy! Heat it and keep it on a low simmer – it will fill the room with a beautiful, custom made scent! You can even pop some of the boiled, scented water in a spray bottle, and spray it in other rooms! Chat to a qualified naturopath with knowledge on suitable essential oils for your pets – these must be self-selected by
Internal parasitic burdens can be quite worrisome for pet parents – they can affect both our pets, and us humans too, so they’re certainly something to be one step ahead of! Here at My pet Nutritionist, we aim to put your mind at ease, and to help you fully understand the ins and outs of parasites, giving you lots of options to help prevent and control infestations. You can read part 1 here! Welcome to part 2 – Internal Parasites When looking at internal parasites, there are various parts of the body targeted, which we need to look at, including the intestines, (where you can find nematodes, cestodes and protozoa), the lungs, and the heart. Some of these parasites can be life threatening, so it’s important to understand symptoms, prevention, and treatment options. Intestinal Parasites Intestinal parasites are usually referred to by pet owners, as ‘worms’. While some are worms, not all intestinal parasites are worms, nor are all worms equal! Nematodes differ from Cestodes, which differ from Protozoa, so we will delve deeper into each type here in this blog post. Nematodes Nematodes are from the phyla Nematoda, and are your typical worm – they usually look similar to your garden earth worms (though are not actually related!); long and thin, with a squashable texture, and tapered ends. This, of course, is a generalisation, and there are various physical and mechanical differences between the different parasitic nematodes. Here’s the strange thing about nematodes – they can be harmless, and actually beneficial, or they can be parasitic – it’s a very broad phyla! Beneficial nematodes are often used as a means of environmental flea, tick and ant control. These are sold online or from some environmental/gardening shops, and are mixed with water before being sprayed onto the affected area. The microscopic nematodes, now sprayed all over the area, target, and eat the larvae of their target species, which controls pest population! Anyway, getting back to the parasitic kind! Let’s take a look at the intestinal nematodes pet owners may face during their time with pets. Roundworms (Toxocara canis and Toxicaris leonina) Roundworms, also known as Ascarid worms, are very easy to identify in their matured form. If a pet has a burden of these worms, which have matured from their larval stage, they will be very obviously present in the animal’s faeces, or vomit. They are white in colour, usually long (between 4 and 6 inches), thin, and curly – they are often expelled from the body in spirals. The main method of transmission of roundworm to our pets, is through coming into contact with contaminated faeces. Those carrying roundworm, shed microscopic eggs into their faeces, leaving others to come into contact with it. Some insects and other animals, including cockroaches, earthworms, and birds can also carry roundworm eggs, which if eaten by your pet, can pass onto, and mature inside your pet. Puppies can also be born with roundworms, and shed live eggs in their faeces. A question owners often ask, is if they can catch roundworms from their pets – and the answer is yes! Accidental oral contact with your pets faeces can pass roundworms on to you, if your pet is carrying roundworm eggs. Symptoms you may see if your dog has a mature roundworm burden include: Diarrhoea Vomiting Changes to skin and coat Weight loss Bloated appearance to the stomach Visible worms in faeces and/or vomit If your dog has recently contracted roundworm, and it is still in it’s larval stage, it’s unlikely there will be many symptoms, apart from perhaps some loose stools. Findings Here Hookworms (Uncinaria stenocephala and Ancylostoma caninum) The next intestinal nematodes we will look at are Hookworms. As per their name, matured hookworms look like very small, but not microscopic, hooks. They are very thin, no longer than 2cm long, and are white in colour. They can be seen in faeces when they’re matured, but can be confused with undigested food particles, or even small pieces of string. In order to stay inside the intestine, where they are fed and housed in those infected, they have small mouthparts which latch onto the intestine walls where they feed directly from blood vessels surrounding the intestine. There are a few methods of transmission for hookworms in pets – pets can contract them through their mother’s milk as puppies or via the placenta before birth, and they can be orally ingested, or even be contracted through the skin. Hookworm larvae can lay dormant, and reactivate during pregnancy too, so it’s important to run regular faecal samples during pregnancy. Can hookworms transmit to humans? Yes, and no. Larvae can be transmitted in unsanitary conditions, but are rarely transmitted as adults. There is one exception to this however! This may make you shudder, but matured Hookworms can work their way into the human body through the skin, most commonly through bare feet in unsanitary conditions where pets have shed larvae in their faeces. While Hookworm infestations aren’t generally life threatening, they can cause anaemia if left untreated – this is more common in young animals than in adults though. Some symptoms you may notice if your pet has Hookworms include: ‘downward dog’ position in dogs (showing gastrointestinal discomfort) Diarrhoea Vomiting Bloodied stools (due to blood loss when Hookworms detach from the gut lining, as they inject anticoagulants into the localised feeding area) Changes to skin and coat Anaemia, especially in young animals Physical development impairments in young pets Small string like worms visible in faeces Coughing in severe cases If your dog has Hookworms in their larval stage, you may see diarrhoea, but may not see other symptoms, as eggs are microscopic. Findings Here Findings Here Whipworms (Trichuris vulpis) Whipworms, the third nematode sometimes found in our pets, get their name from their shape, much like the other nematodes discussed in this article. If you think of a whip, carried by movie heroes like Indiana Jones, and reduce it’s size to 0.5-5cm – you’ll have
