What should you feed your pet? It’s a very broad question, with many answers. No one individual is the same! That said, at My Pet Nutritionist, we aim to help pet owners make an informed decision. We recommend feeding fresh food to both cats and dogs. In this blog post, we will look at why we recommend fresh feeding, and touch on the different diets available on the market, and look at how each one is manufactured to give you an insight into why we do, or don’t recommend it. Why Feed Fresh? Fresh feeding, whether it’s raw, or cooked, uses whole food ingredients to form a complete, and balanced meal. Raw feeding is the closest diet to that of a wild carnivore, and cooked food is the next best option. Fresh foods are high in moisture which is essential for healthy kidney function, as well as general hydration. Fresh foods are highly digestible! As the ingredients are all biologically appropriate (which means all suitable for the species being fed), they are easy to digest. Unfortunately the bulk of the ingredients in dry foods are difficult for dogs or cats to digest, which can lead to long term health implications. The fact that fresh foods are minimally processed is also a huge benefit. The more processed a food is, the riskier it is to general health, both short, and long term. When a food is highly processed, carcinogenic compounds known as Advanced Glycation End-Products (AGEs) form. AGEs cause oxidative stress, generalised inflammation and premature ageing too. Glyphosate is commonly found in processed foods – you may have heard of Glyphosate before. Glyphosate is the active ingredient in many gardening herbicides! It is linked to cancer and major damage to the gut microbiome. This is not an issue with fresh feeding, especially if you purchase your dog or cat’s raw ingredients from organic sources. Fresh foods tend to be very low in carbohydrates; some vegetables contain carbohydrates, such as sweet potato, which may be fed in small quantities, but dry foods, and other processed foods are usually very high in carbohydrates; usually between 30% and 60% carbs! High carb foods cause blood sugar spikes, and can feed yeast, cancer, and lead to generalised inflammation. You can read more about carbohydrate consumption for dogs here. Cats are obligate carnivores so should not consume any. Finally, contamination of raw food is much lower than that of dry foods. Storage mites are a risk of dry food, but not of fresh foods as these are stored in the freezer. Mycotoxins and Aflatoxins are also commonly found in dry foods, due to their long dry-stored shelf life – again this is eliminated through freeze-stored fresh foods. A frequently asked question regarding safety of raw food vs dry foods, is salmonella contamination. Between 2012 and 2021, 80% of recalls due to salmonella were in fact, of dry food! A group of scientists surveyed 16,412 pet owners from 81 countries; a grand total of 39 had reported human illnesses due to raw pet food – just 0.2% – 9 cases were in the UK. Practice proper food hygiene, just as you would when preparing your own meals, and raw feeding is incredibly safe! Findings Here Manufacturing Raw Food Raw food manufacturing is extremely stringently controlled, and foods are DEFRA tested… more stringently so than raw meat sold for human consumption! Commercially prepared raw food is, in most cases, produced on a cold chain production line. Sound fancy doesn’t it? But what is ‘cold chain processing’? The meat comes into the factories in temperature controlled lorries. The meat is kept below a certain temperature throughout the manufacturing process – it is always kept either frozen or extremely cold at all times, leaving little room for bacterial growth. Once the products are minced, and packaged, they are stored in a deep freeze at below -18oC, before being transported for sale in temperature controlled packaging/vehicles. As you can see, this method is perfect for keeping nutrients intact and to their full potential. Premade raw foods are available for both cats and dogs! Preparing Raw Food at Home If you choose to make your own raw meals, commonly known as DIY, you may wish to freeze your meat first. Freezing is believed to eliminate the potential risk of parasitic burdens in meat, though little scientific scripture is available to prove, or disprove this theory – it may be best to err on the side of caution. As a basic guide, freezing lengths should be as follows: Game, pork and fish: 3 weeks OR deep freeze Other meat: 1 week OR deep freeze Findings Here Findings Here The ratio tends to be 80% muscle meat, 10% bone, 5% liver and 5% other secreting offal such as kidney, pancreas, testicle, spleen, brain etc. Heart and tripe are classed as muscle meat, not offal. To make this 80-10-10 mix into a complete meal, you will need to add plant matter, and omega sources. You can learn more about balancing an 80-10-10 here. If you are considering a DIY raw diet, and you want to learn all there is to know about the ins and outs of raw feeding, you can purchase our fantastic Ultimate Raw Feeding Guide for Dogs. Manufacturing Cooked Food Cooked foods are relatively new to the pet food market, with varieties available for both cats and dogs. Ingredients arrive fresh at the factories in temperature controlled vehicles, before being chopped to size, usually by hand, and cooked in large batches, at low temperatures. Temperatures of all ingredients are regularly checked to avoid bacterial growth, and ensure the food is properly cooked. Due to the nature of manufacturing, and minimal processing, these meals are rich in moisture! The cooked meals are then packaged, and in most cases, frozen in a deep freeze before being transported to retailers or directly to customers in temperatures controlled vehicles/cool box style packaging. Preparing Cooked Food at Home If you are planning to cook for your
Here at My Pet Nutritionist, we help pet owners with a host of different health conditions. One we see from time to time, is Spondylosis in dogs. Us humans can get Spondylosis too, but it tends to be more common in our canine companions than it does in their owners. This blog post aims to help you get a better understanding of Spondylosis in dogs, including what it is, how to spot the signs and symptoms, and how you can support the body naturally. What is Spondylosis? Spondylosis, called Spondylosis deformans in the veterinary world, affects the spine; more specifically, the vertebrae – the bones that make up the spine. It’s a degenerative condition, which means it gradually gets worse as the patient ages. Those with spondylosis have bony spurs growing on their vertebrae, known as osteophytes. But why are these growths bad news? The vertebrae protect the spinal chord – probably one of the most important parts of the body as it sends signals between the brain and the rest of the body, and vice versa, and ais also involved in reflexes and coordination. The body spurs growing on the underside of the vertebrae can rub on the spinal cord, causing damage, which then has a knock-on effect to the dog’s sensory capabilities, and ability to move freely. Spondylosis can be widespread, with bony spurs forming along the entire spine, or localised, where they only form in one or two spots. It is most commonly seen in the lower spine, AKA the Lumbar Region, as well as hips and tail. In particularly bad cases, bony spurs can fuse vertebrae together, making mobility tricky. Spondylosis is quite common in aging dogs, especially those who are heavier set, such as giant breeds, or breeds with cobby bodies, and short legs, but it can happen at any age and breed, depending on the cause, which we will look at shortly. The most commonly affected breed is the Boxer, where estimates suggest around 70% of elderly individuals over the age of 9, have been diagnosed with the disease. Findings Here Symptoms of Spondylosis The somewhat strange thing about symptoms when looking at a potential diagnosis of Spondylosis, is that there are very few clinical signs presented, especially not those specific to the condition. Some symptoms you may notice include: Spinal pain: hunching of spine, lameness, unwillingness to walk, difficulty laying down and standing up, general reduction of mobility Behavioural changes: your dog may become more reactive due to pain, and the fear of being hurt by another dog bumping them. Yelping when specific areas are manipulated Lethargy General weakness and stiffness Reduced appetite If your dog is displaying these signs, there could be a number of potential spinal issues, so it’s important to consult your veterinarian to grasp a better understanding of the exact issue your dog is having. Causes of Spondylosis So why does Spondylosis occur? It can be a natural part of the ageing process – just through general wear and tear of an older dog. Another cause of the development of Spondylosis, is trauma to the spine from injury, whether it’s minor trauma, like a bump to the spine, a wobbly landing from a higher surface, or repeated over-use of the spine (often seen in sports dogs who do the same movement repetitively), to major trauma such as having been hit by a car, or having had surgery to correct IVDD. A third potential cause of Spondylosis, is genetic predisposition. There are not many predisposed breeds, but the most commonly seen tend to be Boxers, German Shepherds, and Flat Coat Retrievers. Spondylosis can also form as a secondary disease! Between the vertebrae of a healthy dog, lays soft tissue. This enables the discs to act as shock absorbers, and softens impact, keeping the vertebrae separate. There is a degenerative disc disease, previously mentioned in its abbreviated form, IVDD (Inter-Vertebral Disc Disease), in which the tissue between the vertebrae wears away, leaving bone to rub on bone, prompting the formation of bony spurs to re-stabilise the joint. Findings Here Diagnosing Spondylosis As there is usually a lack of obvious symptoms in cases of Spondylosis, it can be tricky to pinpoint a test for it. If your dog is experiences clear signs of back pain, or even just at the vet for their annual health check where the dog displays possible signs of pain, the vet will use your dog’s medical history records to look for potential missed signs. They will perform any neurological and orthopaedic examinations they feel are necessary, and go from there. Your vet will typically want to rule out any other potential health issues before testing further for Spondylosis. A canine physiotherapist may be able to give a better look into mobility and how your dog’s gait is affected through a video analysis. This may be done through referral; however many allow the owner to book directly in with them to discuss the video, and their findings. Once your veterinarian has ruled out the potential for other, perhaps more common health issues, he or she will book your dog in for an x-ray of the spine, which includes the chest and abdominal cavities, naturally. X-rays tend to give a definitive answer as to whether the dog has Spondylosis or not, due to the visibility of bony spurs on the vertebrae. Less commonly, a vet may recommend an MRI scan – these tend to show potential spinal cord damage as opposed to the bony spurs themselves, which can be an important part of recommending the correct treatment. This procedure is usually carried out on referral with a neurologist. Findings Here Conventional Treatments There is actually very little a veterinarian can do in the event of a dog having Spondylosis, as every individual is different. The treatment plan is heavily based on symptoms the individual’s dog is showing, now a generalised treatment plan, which would be the same for all sufferers. Pain medication is regularly prescribed for those suffering
A question commonly asked by owners, here at My Pet Nutritionist, is ‘how can I boost my dog’s immunity?’, or ‘how do I strengthen my dog’s immune system?’. Well, we’re here to give you some helpful tips on how to strengthen your dog’s immune system – you may be surprised with some of the topics covered, but hopefully you will understand the concepts in this detailed blog post. A healthy immune system is the difference between overall health, and disease, and in many cases, the difference between life or death! We strive to keep our own immune systems strong, and our pets deserve just as much strength in their immune system – they are outside, low to the ground, sniffing public areas barefoot much of the time, after all! The Immune System There are various parts to the immune system as a whole. Generally speaking, when an owner wants to ‘boost the immune system’, it’s the Adaptive (or Acquired) Immune System in question – the immunity gained following seroconversion of vaccinations. Here’s a bit about the Adaptive Immune System, which can be split into two mechanisms: Humoral (antibody mediated) immunity primarily involves B-Lymphocytes. During a humoral immune response, when an antigen is detected, with the help of T Helper Lymphocytes, the B Cells go through a differentiation process, which produces Memory B Cells and Effector B Cells, which are both specific to the B Cell they were differentiated from, and therefore are specifically shaped to combat a specific antigen/pathogen. This is the most common immune response, especially following successful vaccination. Titre Tests pick up these antibodies. Cellular, or cell-mediated immunity involves another type of cell – T-Cells. When T-Cells differentiate, they become T-Killer Cells which attach to and engulf antigens. Allergic responses and autoimmune conditions are part of the cell-mediated adaptive immune system. There are other parts to the overall immune system of a dog, or any other mammal, too. Let’s take a brief look at what these are, and how they differ from the Adaptive Immune System. Active Immunity: this is what is happening when the dog is exposed to a pathogen. The active immune system is the fastest acting system and is the body’s first response to the presence of a pathogen. In the presence of a pathogen, the B-Lymphocytes create and release antibodies. Passive Immunity: this is the immunity passed on to an individual instead of being created by their body. In dogs we call this Maternally Derived Antibodies (MDA). MDA is passed onto the puppies from the mother and is vital to health in the early weeks. It usually wanes between 10 and 16 weeks of age, unless interrupted by vaccination. MDA is passed onto the puppies through the placenta, and through the mothers milk. If a puppy is hand reared, he/she may require extra caution than those who drink mothers milk. Innate (also called non-specific) Immunity: this includes the immunity and defence systems your dog is born with. Barriers like skin, the gastro-intestinal tract, eyelashes etc all help keep pathogens out of the body which is why gut health is so very important – at least 70% of your immune system is in the gut! Defence systems like mucosal layers, saliva, stomach acid etc are also part of the innate immune system. Another immune response included as part of the innate immune system is inflammation – this often acts as a marker to pathogens so they can be destroyed. There are various day-to-day aspects of life, including diet and lifestyle which can affect your dog’s immune capabilities, so let’s dig deeper into these. How Gut Health Affects the Immune System It is becoming more widely known, that 70-80% of the immune system lays in the gut – quite a staggering figure! The all important gut microbiome is naturally perfectly balanced – there are ‘good guys’ and ‘bad guys’ that all make up a healthy gut microbiome, but there’s enough of the ‘good guys’ to keep the ‘bad guys’ under control. When the gut is not healthy, the microbiome is knocked out of balance, and the ‘bad guys’ are able to take over, causing disease within the body. There are various substances, and other triggers such as stress, which cause damage to the gut wall, too. When the gut wall is damaged, the gut microbiome is again, knocked out of balance as it is leaked from the gut (known as Leaky Gut). When the gut is leaking, the immune system is left very vulnerable, so it’s imperative to keep the gut healthy at all times – and if it’s not healthy, focus on getting it healthy! The vast majority of systems in the body are connected to the gut very much like a roundabout. These connections are called axis and there are many, for example, the gut-brain axis, the gut-musculoskeletal axis, the gut-liver axis, and the gut-skin axis. The microbiome communicates with this organ systems by creating messengers and metabolites such as probiotics in order to help support function. This is an emerging area of immunity that science is newly delving into. We will delve into some gut health supplements later on in this blog post. Findings Here Findings Here Gut Guardian How Diet Affects the Immune System The diet plays a large role in gut and immune health. Commercial dry food diets being overly processed do not have the live capacity to nourish the gut microbiome like fresh foods do. Moisture in food is incredibly important for all mammalian species, and dogs are no different. Dry food generally has 6-10% moisture; making it dehydrating to the intestinal tract. We know there are some wondrous foods to feed our dogs to support immunity. Fresh in raw or cooked form is always advisable but there are certain ingredients that we favour as they hold great healing and supportive capabilities. We have a fantastic blog explaining the ingredients we tend to favour, which can be found here. When we look at ingredients, both in kibble and in
There are so many aspects of health that we look at here at My Pet Nutritionist. Diet and lifestyle are considered, including vaccination schedules, chemical treatment exposure, the quality of water provided and the cleaning products/household products used in the pet’s environment. However there is another factor often overlooked when it comes to disease – stress! We often say disease is expressed according to how we interface with our environment. The main factors here being nutrition, toxins and stress. Stress can be mental, or physical. Mental stress and physical stress can also be linked. In this blog, we will look at the links between stress, and disease. What is Stress? We all know what stress feels like from time to time (and if you don’t, the rest of us are very jealous!), but how does it look from a biological standpoint? What actually happens in our and our pets’ bodies during stress? Stress responses start off in the part of the brain that deals with emotions; the Amygdala. The Amygdala sends a message to the ‘control centre of the body’; the Hypothalamus, the very centre of the brain. The Hypothalamus then interacts with the autonomic nervous system (the part of the nervous system that controls involuntary bodily functions such as breathing, heartbeat, blood pressure etc) to make adjustments in the body, to cope with the stress. The autonomic nervous system is the main system involved in stress responses, and branches into the sympathetic, and parasympathetic nervous systems. These systems are what give the tell-tale signs of stress in your pets (and yourself!), and what help reduce the effects of the stress response. Let’s take a look at some of the common symptoms of stress, caused by the different systems: The sympathetic nervous system Inhibits saliva production Increases heartrate Dilutes pupils Relaxes urinary bladder Inhibits digestive capabilities (read on to find out more on this!) Dilates bronchia The parasympathetic nervous system Promotes saliva production Decreases heartrate Constricts pupils Constricts urinary bladder Stimulates digestive functions Constricts bronchia Stress isn’t always emotional – it’s important to remember this! Common stressors include: Emotional: fear, mental trauma, anxiety Physical: over-exertion, injury, pain Environmental: allergens, pollutants, radiation and rapid temperature changes Biological: bacteria, viruses, parasitic burdens Chemical: pesticides/herbicides, toxins, heavy metals Consumable: ultra-processed foods You can read more about the stress response here! Findings Here Findings Here Calm Complex The Gut-Brain Axis Gut health plays a role in mental health, which means the health of your pet’s gut, is incredibly important to look at if your pet is frequently stressed. The gut is very much linked to every system in the body, and the nervous system is no exception! Bidirectional (both ways) occurs between the gut and the brain, so having a stressed pet, can be a little like a vicious circle, in that emotional stressors can affect the gut, and poor gut health can affect the pet’s emotions. Located in the peripheral nervous system, the main nerve associated with this bidirectional signalling between the gut and the brain, is the Vagus Nerve. Unlike other cranial nerves, which signal between the head and neck areas, the Vagus Nerve reaches all the way through the body, to connect the brain to the gut. The Vagus Nerve is responsible for various bodily functions, including: Allowing for swallowing and vocalisation in the larynx and pharynx Parasympathetic supply to the heart in the thorax, which reduces the heart rate during stressful situations Regulates smooth muscle contraction in the intestine, to enable normal defecation The Vagus Nerve is essential to link the central nervous system to the enteric nervous system to enable healthy digestion. You can read more about the Gut-Brain Axis here! Findings Here Emotional Stress and its Effects on the Body Having an anxious pet can be heartbreaking for the owner – not to mention hard work (which is very much worth it!). Due to the gut-brain axis, we know that emotional stress, doesn’t just stay within the brain! It can cause disease throughout the body, purely down to the fact the Vagus Nerve is an important part of so many systems in the body. The endocrine (hormone) system, and enteric nervous system are both massively affected by poor brain health, and prolonged periods of emotional stress can lead to a host of hormone-related diseases, and disease within the digestive tract. Of course, not all dogs with endocrine or digestive issues are stressed, nor can it always be put down to stress, but stress responses and brain health are very often overlooked – so here is your reminder to check your pet’s mental wellbeing. Think about things you could improve in their life to give them a calmer, more level mental state if they are typically easily overwhelmed, or provide them with a more stimulating routine or space if your dog’s mental health is poor due to boredom. It works both ways! Read on to find out more on how to keep your pet’s stress levels to a minimum. Findings Here Calm Complex Physical/Environmental Stress and its Effects on the Body When our pets go through some form of physical stress, whether it’s injury, or illness, the pressure on the body’s systems (which are already working harder than normal, in order to fight disease or heal injuries) can once again, cause a vicious circle. The added pressure on the body’s systems, makes for the potential for disease to worsen due to stress. We need to help our pets recover in a timely manner with as little emotional stress as possible, in order to reduce stress. Physical and environmental stress can cause emotional stress, which we know can lead to endocrine and digestive upset. Gut damage can then lead to numerous other diseases because 70-80% of the immune system lays in the gut. Chemical/Consumable Stress and its Effects on the Body Chemicals used on the pet, and around the pet as well as what you feed your pet can cause stress on the body, which leads to disease. This is
Here at My Pet Nutritionist, we see a lot of people worried about their dog’s recent blood test results. The Liver Enzyme reading may be higher than expected for a variety of reasons, and could be partly down to the food being fed to your dog. This blog aims to help you gain a better understanding of the value you may have received, and what may have caused it to be high. A Bit About Liver Enzyme Readings When your dog has a full panel of blood tests, performed by your veterinarian, your dog’s liver function is tested. The results will show on the results sheet as values for ‘ALT’, ‘AST’, ‘ALP’, and ‘GGT’. There is a set range of values which denote normal/healthy liver function which are as follows: ALT: 12-118 U/L AST: 15-66 U/L ALP: 20-200 U/L GGT: 0-25 U/L Each reading is the result for a different liver enzyme – read on to learn about each one. Your vet should help you analyse your dog’s results, and offer feedback as to the health of your dog’s liver. Findings Here Findings Here Findings Here What are the Liver Enzymes? As mentioned, each value relates to the levels of a different enzyme. Enzymes help to speed up chemical reactions in the body, and in the case of the liver enzymes as a whole, they are responsible for the production of bile, blood clotting, digestion, breaking down toxins, and helping the body to fight infection. Let’s take a look at the different enzymes tested for in your dog’s liver. Alanine Transaminase (ALT) ALT is an important catalyst for the process involved in the metabolism of glucose and protein, to for pyruvate (major part of cellular respiration) and glutamate (an important neurotransmitter used for memory, mood regulation and cognitive capabilities). When liver cells are damaged, ALT is released into the bloodstream. High amounts of ALT Leakage, means your dog could have liver disease or trauma. Findings Here Findings Here Aspartate Transaminase (AST) AST plays a major role in Gluconeogenesis of the liver, as well as some other tissues and organs. It is a catalyst for the transfer of an amino acid from aspartate to glutamate. Raised AST values can also be caused by leakage into the bloodstream through disease or trauma to the liver, as well as trauma to the muscles in the body, as AST is also found in the musculoskeletal system in mammals. Findings Here Findings Here Alkaline Phosphatase (ASP) ASP is found throughout the body, in the bloodstream. It is the catalyst for the hydrolysis of phosphate esters, leading to the breakdown of proteins in the body, and it is produced not only by the liver, but in the kidneys, intestines, pancreas and bones; it is however, produced mostly by the liver. Findings Here Findings Here Gamma-Glutamyl Transferase (GGT) GGT aids the transfer of amino acids through the membrane of cells, and is also involved in leukotriene metabolism. It is a prominent marker of liver dysfunction, so elevated GGT readings are best to be further investigated as soon as possible! Findings Here Findings Here Liver Guard What Causes Raised Liver Enzymes? While there are various underlaying health conditions which cause raised liver values, including liver disease, hepatitis, cancer, thyroid disease, various myositis diseases (muscular disease), diet can influence your dog’s liver enzyme values. Too Much Copper When there is too much copper in the diet for the individual dog, the dog may develop copper-storage liver disease, scientifically known as Copper Hepatopathy. Copper is an important nutrient to include in your dog’s diet, as it aids the production of energy, and maintenance of blood vessels, and connective tissues throughout the body, however the liver is unable to process large amounts of it, which leads to a build up in the liver, which then has to store it. This damages the liver, causing elevated liver enzymes due to disease. Findings Here Findings Here Low Copper Too Much Vitamin A While Vitamin A is an important part of a balanced diet, essential for ocular health, healthy development, a strong immune system, and reproductive health, supplementing the diet with extra Vitamin A can cause elevated liver enzymes. When looking at nutrient profiles of your dog’s diet, try to use fresh ingredients (fresh fruit and veg, specifically selected, may be the best addition to your dog’s diet), instead of a supplement. Supplements tend to be very concentrated, which could easily tip your dog over their recommended daily intake of Vitamin A – this is called hepatotoxicity. Findings Here Findings Here Findings Here Too Much Iron Over-supplementing iron can also cause hepatotoxicity, which occurs due to iron-poisoning. Having excess iron intake causes raised liver enzymes due to the damage caused by hepatotoxicity, known as hemochromatosis. Findings Here Findings Here Zinc Deficiency Zinc deficiency often comes hand in hand with excess Vitamin A consumption. Some studies suggest that elevated Vitamin A in the blood could be caused by a lack of zinc, not just by over-consumption. Zinc levels are often skipped during testing for various diseases, but are extremely important to investigate. Findings Here Findings Here Findings Here High Carbohydrate Diets Studies show that dogs fed a high carbohydrate diet are more at risk of developing liver disease, and therefore raised liver enzymes than those fed a low carbohydrate diet. One of the roles of the liver, is to maintain glucose concentrations in order to control the metabolism of carbohydrates. If the liver is strained too hard due to being overloaded by carbohydrates, it is at risk of leaking enzymes into the bloodstream, causing elevated liver enzymes. Findings Here Findings Here Findings Here Ketogenic Diets As much as a high carbohydrate diet may lead to leakage of liver enzymes, a low-to-no carbohydrate diet may also lead to the leakage of liver enzymes, as the liver overproduces them. Some conditions do require a ketogenic diet, such as those suffering from cancer, but if your dog is on a ketogenic diet, ensure your dog’s blood is
Here at My Pet Nutritionist, we help a lot of dogs who present with regurgitation. It’s not a pleasant sensation for us humans, and it’s no different for our canine companions. Regurgitation can occur for various reasons, which we will take a brief look at in this blog. We will also discuss what is the best food to feed your dog, and what supplements could be considered for your dog suffering with regurgitation. What is Regurgitation? Regurgitation is the expulsion of undigested food via the mouth. Unlike when a dog vomits, when there are ‘warning signs’ such as licking of the lips, drool etc, when a dog regurgitates, it’s very much instantaneous with no pre-warning. One of the biggest risks of regurgitation, especially in brachycephalic breeds, is aspiration pneumonia. When regurgitation occurs, the larynx can struggle to close quickly enough. Being open at the time of regurgitation can cause particles of food to be breathed in, which causes the pneumonia. What Can Cause Regurgitation? There are various reasons a dog may regurgitate. It’s not necessarily a condition on it’s own, but it’s more a symptom of an underlaying illness. It can also be partly down to breed predisposition due to being congenital. Breeds with a predisposition include: Chinese shar pei Newfoundland Miniature schnauzer Great dane German shepherd Labrador Fox terrier Acquired causes (those which regurgitation is a symptom of) include: Acid reflux: the pressure of the chyme in the stomach due to digestive incapabilities, causes the dog to regurgitate. Read more about acid reflux here. Megaoesophagus: peristalsis is unable to occur, so food sits in the oesophagus in the chest. Read more on megaoesophagus here. Laryngeal Paralysis: the larynx is unable to function, so the windpipe and throat may be open at the same time. This causes coughing and gagging, which can lead to regurgitation. Read more on Laryngeal Paralysis here. Brachycephalic Obstructive Airways Syndrome (BOAS): some of the breathing and swallowing pathways which are affected in those with BOAS can cause regurgitation. Food particles can get stuck at various points in the digestive system in these dogs. Surgery is required to open the relevant pathways to reduce the risk of regurgitation. Foreign Body: when something is lodged in the throat or chest cavity, regurgitation can occur, as food particles are unable to bypass the blockage. Cancer: depending on where the tumour is, your dog may be unable to digest food, and/or food particles may get stuck somewhere along the digestive tract, leading to their expulsion through the mouth. Stress: digestive function is compromised when the body is under stress as the sympathetic nervous system kicks in. hypersensitivity occurs during stressful situations too, which heightens the risk of oesophageal irritation, and therefore regurgitation. Incorrect Diet: feeding your dog a diet that does not suit them is a major cause of regurgitation. The body reacts to unsuitable food because the Enteric Nervous System (ENS) causes the digestive tract to become hypersensitive, which leads to regurgitation. Allergies and intolerances can also cause this reaction, so it’s important to get on top of these. Read more on why a dog regurgitates here! Findings Here Findings Here What Should you Feed? Recurring regurgitation can be a huge sign that the diet you are feeding your dog is unsuitable, and needs tweaking. Changing the Type of Food It’s very likely that the type of food you are feeding your dog needs changing if your dog is regurgitating. Of course, we recommend feeding a diet as fresh as possible. Raw food, or cooked food (using one of our balanced recipes). If you are feeding raw food already, and your dog is regurgitating, it may be worth looking into feeding a balanced, cooked diet. Many dogs who regurgitate do better on a cooked diet. Feeding an easily digestible protein such as white fish using our balanced white fish cooked food recipe may be beneficial for a dog with regular episodes of regurgitation. In some cases, the dog requires a lower fat diet. Feeding leaner proteins may help. These tend to put less stress on the digestive tract, and are therefore much easier to digest, reducing the risk of regurgitation. It really is a case of finding what suits your individual dog best! Why would we recommend avoiding dry food? The lack of moisture, and vast amount of difficult-to-digest ingredients in dry foods can cause havoc with the digestive system, which can cause regurgitation. Findings Here Getting on Top of Allergies and Intolerances Working on eliminating foods the dog doesn’t tolerate is essential. The more gut inflammation caused by feeding intolerable foods, the higher the chance of regurgitation. A full elimination diet may be required – this entails feeding one single protein for a prolonged period of time (6-12 weeks), in order to see if it is well tolerated or not, before moving on to the next. Read our blog on Elimination Diets here! Our Transform package is ideal for those suffering from allergies and intolerances! Findings Here Changing the Frequency of Meals Many dogs who suffer from regurgitation require smaller, but more frequent meals. This is particularly useful in dogs with slow digestion, and those with weak peristalsis. Feeding smaller portions allows the body to digest food more thoroughly, causing less irritation in the digestive tract. Better digestion, means less chance of regurgitation. Supplementing your Dog’s Diet There are some supplements which may be beneficial to those suffering with recurring regurgitation. Of course, it’s important underlaying illness is ruled out first, with your veterinarian, but the following supplements may reduce the risk of regurgitation in your dog. Mucilage Herbs Mucilage herbs help heal and protect the gut as well as soothing the digestive tract. Those with regurgitation often have irritation throughout the digestive tract following a meal, so adding mucilage herbs into the regime, helps keep the digestive tract comfortable. Some examples of mucilage herbs include slippery elm, marshmallow root, and deglycyrrhizinated liquorice (DGL). Our product Gut Guardian contains all three, plus calming chamomile, and soil
Here at My Pet Nutritionist, we see lots of cases of Hotspots. Those seeing a hotspot for the first time can be worrying; those who deal with them regularly may feel overwhelmed, and frustrated at their regular reappearance. In this blog we will look at what hotspots are, how they happen, their link to gut health, and how we can support the body to heal them efficiently. What Are Hotspots? Hotspots are scientifically known as Pyotraumatic Dermatitis. Another common name for them is ‘Acute Moist Dermatitis’; this name gives more of a visual impression of what you can expect to see of a hotspot case. They present as red raw, moist areas of hairloss, and can happen on both dogs and cats. There is no specific place hotspots can happen on the body, and they tend to show up very quickly. Often confused with ringworm, hotspots are wet in appearance, and often more open/raw looking than ringworm. Ringworm also tends to occur in patches, as opposed to one single spot. Are they sore for your pet? Yes! Hotspots can be very sore for your pet, so it’s important not to leave them. You may notice increased itching and licking of the area, as well as potential behavioural changes due to pain. The sore my ooze liquid, particularly if the hotspot has become infected, which would also bring an unpleasant odour. The fur around the edge of the lesion may be matted. There is no correlation between age, sex or breed when it comes to the likelihood of s dog getting a hotspot. Findings Here What Causes Them? Hotspots are caused by bacterial overgrowth, or are secondary to another underlaying health issue. The biggest trigger for hotspots, is repeated itching of an area on the body. This can make hotspots a secondary health problem to allergies and intolerances, flea infestations and other insect bites, ear infections, grass seeds, stress and anxiety, and poor grooming husbandry when matts are close to the skin. The constant itching and licking of an area makes the perfect growth site for bacteria – moisture and warmth are bacteria’s favourite conditions! Findings Here Findings Here Hotspots and Gut Health As with most skin related problems, there is a huge link with poor gut health. We need to look closely at the Skin-Gut Axis. The skin and gut barrier share many qualities, as they’re both highly vascularised and innervated due to their role in both immune function, and neuro-endocrine function. When looking at the inside of the gut and the surface of the skin, to the naked eye they may seem worlds apart, but both are covered in epithelial cells which both make direct contact with the corresponding environment (the skin contacts particles in the air, things we touch etc, and the inside of the gut touches everything moving through the gut). The biggest similarity between the skin and the gut, is that they both possess their own microbiome. I’m sure you’ve heard us talking about the microbiome on many occasions; but that is because the microbiome is so incredibly important for health and proper functioning of various systems and organs. The microbiome is made up of all microbes the relevant organ uses, and makes contact with, including good (and bad!) bacteria, viruses, fungi, protozoa and other parasites. Gut Guardian There are many studies which prove positive links between probiotic supplementation and skin quality, which can be found in our blog about the gut-skin axis! Metabolites from the gut are shown to link directly to the skin’s ability to fight off ‘nasties’ which would in turn, reduce the risk of hotspots. An important neurotransmitter called Acetylcholine also plays a role in the functioning of the skin’s barrier, and how it deals with overgrowth of bacteria. Supporting the Body for Healing If your dog currently has a hotspot, it’s very important to treat it as soon as possible, as it won’t go away on it’s own. If the hotspot is oozing a yellow or creamy colour, you will need to seek veterinary attention, however it is important to work on the gut following use of antibiotics your vet may prescribe. Step 1: Shave the Fur Gently shave the fur around the hotspot – this enables you to see the full extent of the hotspot, and gives you a clean area to treat it, without the risk of fur getting into the wound. It also allows the hotspot to ‘breathe’, which is imperative in helping it dry up. Step 2: Clean the Area Using either boiled and cooled salt water, colloidal silver, Leucillin/Dew, or probiotic wound spray, gently clean the area to ensure there’s no bad bacteria on or around the hotspot. Pat it dry gently with a cotton pad. Step 3: Apply Green Clay With a clean, soft brush, such as a clean makeup brush, lightly dust some green clay on the hotspot – green clay is an excellent ‘staple’ for the dog cupboard (come on, everyone has a dog cupboard or drawer)! Green clay helps remove toxin from the skin, and helps dry the wound out. When purchasing your clay, ensure the product is 100% green clay, as some products contain added ingredients, including fragrances, which we definitely don’t want to use on our dogs! If you spot the hotspot getting wet through the clay, pop a little more on. Reapply the green clay once or twice per day, and keep the area dry at all times! Step 4: Prevent the Dog from Licking or Itching It’s important to not let the dog lick the wound, or get it wet. Itching the wound can aggravate it too, so don’t let them do this! You may need to resort to the cone of shame (Elizabethan collar, lampshade, or whatever you might call it!) for a few days to achieve this. Depending on where on the body the hotspot is, you may be able to use a clean t-shirt or sock to help cover it. Step 5: Wait! Hopefully
With new studies recently released, is it time to rethink the use of coconut oil for our dogs? Coconut oil is a very popular product, used by pet owners all over the world, boasting some great health benefits. Take a look at the benefits, and some potential downsides of using coconut oil for your dogs with us! What is Coconut Oil? Coconut oil is made by pressing the flesh of the coconut. The state of the flesh in its complete form, determines the type of oil produced. When shopping for coconut oil, you may notice that both refined, and unrefined varieties are available. Unrefined coconut oil is the fresher option – this is the result of pressing fresh coconut flesh. Refined coconut oil is produced by pressing dried coconut flesh (called copra), so is more processed. Virgin unrefined oils are typically the most pure option, as virgin oils are from the initial press, as opposed to subsequent presses, where non-virgin oils are produced, which are not as nutrient rich. Coconut oil is rich in Medium-Chain Triglycerides (MCTs) – a type of saturated fat, healthier than heavy fats. Around 65% of coconut oil’s make up is MCTs! More on those later! Using Coconut Oil Externally Coconut oil is often a fantastic choice for topical (external) use! It is used in the dog world for all sorts – flea prevention (as it makes the coat more slippery), to treat dry skin and noses, to soothe sore areas of skin, and much more! The MCT content of coconut oil has great antimicrobial properties, so can be used to help promote healing of minor wounds, pyoderma, and other fungal and bacterial skin issues. The specific fatty acid largely responsible for this is called Lauric Acid, which makes up around half of the MCTs. Findings Here Findings Here Findings Here The oil from coconuts is extremely moisturising to the skin! So moisturizing in fact, that studies comparing it to mineral oils (well renowned for being excellent for the skin) have been carried out! Results show coconut oil has just as much of a positive impact on skin moisture as mineral oil. Findings Here Using Coconut Oil Internally Internal use of coconut oil is quite popular among the dog community, however, some new research suggests that it might not be such a good idea. Let’s take a look at the benefits first, before we move on to the new research! Those who feed coconut oil claim it helps their dog’s coat condition due to the content of fatty acids. People also notice a difference in dental health – coconut oil can be a great choice for a doggie toothpaste, mixed with a little bicarbonate of soda (baking soda for those reading from other parts of the world!). Findings Here There is some evidence to suggest that changes to cholesterol levels are possible by consuming coconut oil – it’s said to reduce the bad Low Density Lipoprotein (LDL) cholesterol, and increase the High Density Lipoprotein (HDL) cholesterol in the body. There are also studies which state the very opposite, and that consuming coconut oil may actually increase levels of LDL. This conflict is something which needs further research, and is something to take into consideration if you’re looking at feeding it to your dog. Findings Here Coconut oil is antioxidant rich – this means it helps to combat dangerous free radicals in the body! Packing antioxidants into your dog’s diet is important, but other sources are available. Blueberries are one of the most powerful antioxidant sources readily available in your supermarket. Findings Here Seizure control is another proposed benefit to feeding coconut oil – this is because as part of a ketogenic diet, fats are important. There is evidence to suggest that the MCT content in coconut oil cause an increase in ketone levels in the bloodstream. There are links between high ketone concentrations and reduced frequency of seizures. Findings Here What Does New Research Suggest? As we mentioned, some new studies into the use of coconut oil internally, have been published! Of course, we had to read and digest them; so what do they say? The new research findings affect the gut! As we always speak about here at My Pet Nutritionist; gut health is so incredibly important, and has a knock on effect to all parts of the body, as well as being largely responsible for immune health. Leaky gut appears to be a major concern with feeding coconut oil, according to the new studies. Leaky gut happens when there is inflammation and irritation of the gut lining. The one-cell-thick intestinal lining is formed with ‘tight junctions’ in the healthy gut – this means the cells are right next to each other with no gaps, which stops particles from crossing the membrane into the bloodstream where they are recognised as foreign bodies, which presents symptomatically as intolerances. When irritated, gaps open up between the cells, which allows for particles to leak from the gut and into the bloodstream. Studies show that the previously mentioned Lauric Acid, is inherently inflammatory. Studies also suggest that although antimicrobial, it may also destroy the membranes of lipopolysaccharides (LPS), which causes an immune response. The studies also state that coconut oil may cause the overproduction of LPS, and also increase it’s toxicity. Findings Here Findings Here As coconut oil is a saturated fat, this also contributes to inflammation in the gut, which leads to leaky gut. The fat content of coconut oil is also a worry because high fat diets feed some bacteria, causing leaky gut. Findings Here What can we use as an alternative? As an alternative to coconut oil, for internal use, you may prefer to use a high quality MCT oil. It’s important to source a good MCT oil, as pure as possible, as not every MCT oil on the market is created equal! For coat and skincare, internally, you can look at some other healthy fatty acid sources, such as fresh or tinned oily fish
Here at My Pet Nutritionist, we see a lot of worried puppy parents, struggling with pyoderma. Skin conditions are a very common topic at MPN HQ, so let’s take a dive into pyoderma, what it is, what causes it, and how to support the body with it. What is Pyoderma? The word pyoderma, literally translates to ‘pus in the skin’ (‘pyo’ = pus, ‘derma’ = skin). The condition presents as acne-like spots on the skin, often in the chin area, and around the lips. Pyoderma is a bacterial skin infection, the most common bacteria affecting it being Staphyloccocus intermedius. When there is too much of a specific bacteria present on the skin, the risk of pyoderma is significant. Pyoderma can happen at any age, but is particularly common in puppies – known as puppy pyoderma. Pyoderma can spread between humans and dogs, so it’s important to clean your hands thoroughly when you touch the affected areas on your dog. Findings Here Findings Here Causes of Pyoderma A common contributing factor of pyoderma is environment. Dogs living in warm, humid environments may be at a higher risk than those living in cool, dry environments. Humidity and warmth are essential for bacterial growth. Items in the environment can also contribute to the onset of pyoderma; the biggest culprit being dog bowls! Plastic bowls are particularly good bacterial breeding grounds because they scratch very easily (even if you cant see the scratches to the naked eye), which leaves crevices which are difficult to fully clean, allowing for bacterial growth. When the dog touches the bowl, the bacteria rubs onto the skin, causing pyoderma. An unhealthy gut is also a huge contributing factor to the overcolonisation of bacteria, which can cause pyoderma. 70-80% of the immune system lays in the gut. When the gut is damaged, through the use of chemicals, pest control pharmaceuticals, poor diet or ingredients, or any other cause of gut damage, this can have a severe effect on the body’s ability to get rid of the over-colonised bad bacteria. This leaves the dog more vulnerable to pyoderma. Secondary infection is also one of the major causes of pyoderma. It can be a secondary infection arising from a poor skin barrier, poor gut flora, intolerences to food, and contact allergies from the environment. As well as these common health complaints, there is also a genetic mutation called the Fillagrin mutation – this is much like eczema in humans. Findings Here Breed predisposition may also be a factor in the onset of pyoderma, however more research in this field is needed. Breeds thought to be at higher risk of pyoderma include: Spaniels (ususally lip fold pyoderma) Pekingese Pugs Boxers Bulldogs Shar Pei Read more about genes and skin health here! Finally, stress could contirbute to a dog getting pyoderma. Just like in us humans, stress-spots are very much possible. This is down to the skin having developed it’s own HPA axis. When the body is under stress, the adrenal glands release, and flood the body with stress hormones. This sudden burst of hormones can cause pyoderma to form on the skin. Read more about the skin’s HPA axis here! How to Prevent Pyoderma Prevention of pyoderma is something that may be overlooked by many pet owners, but it can happen to any dog at any age, so it’s something to be mindful of. Using the Right Bowls In order to reduce the risk of bacteria against the skin on the face, and around the mouth, we need to be mindful of the bowls being used for food and water. Glass (modern Pyrex is great, but avoid vintage Pyrex due to the potential for lead contamination!) bowls are a fantastic option, but beware if your dog is likely to pick it up and drop it. Stainless steel bowls are also a good option. Avoid plastic bowls, and be cautious using ceramic bowls, due to the ease of cracking of the glaze, which could then harbor bacteria. Keeping the Gut Healthy As previously mentioned, 70-80% of the immune system lays in the gut, so keeping the gut healthy is incredibly important. There are many avenues to keeping the gut healthy. Feed a fresh diet where possible – dry food is very drying on the gut, and often contains ingredients that can contribute to Leaky Gut. Fresh food, whether it’s raw or cooked using one of our recipes balanced to FEDIAF, is high in moisture, so is better for the gut. Avoid using worm and flea pharmaceuticals – these act a lot like paint stripper on the gut, and contain damaging ingredients, not to mention the risk of seizures, ataxia, and other nasty side effects. Don’t over-vaccinate! The adjuvants used in vaccinations can be detrimental to gut health due to the content of heavy metals. Use a probiotic, and if needed, a mucilage herb. Our product Gut Gurdian is a great choice, combining three mucilage herbs, calming chamomile, and some good quality soil based probiotics. Keeping the Skin Clean Keeping skin clean and dry is very important – focusing on the chin and mouth area, wrinkles/folds in certain breeds, and armpits and groin areas. You may wish to use a hypochlorous based product, of topical probiotic product to clean with, such as Leucillin or Dew (Hypochlorous based), or Provilan LUCAA+ probiotic products. Ensure areas are thoroughly dried. Keep On Top of Allergies Allergy symptoms usually include itching – constant itching of an area will irritate the skin, and leave it open to bacterial infections, especially in the hair follicles. It’s important to work on finding your dog’s triggers, and eliminating them. Keep the Environment Clean Try to keep the dog’s living environment clean! A clean environment, means less risk of bacteria. Less bacteria in the environment, reduces the risk of transmission to a host. How to Support the Body If your dog has pyoderma already, there are some things you can do to support the body through recovery. Let’s take a look at some
At My Pet Nutritionist we are all about feeding your dogs the freshest, most natural diets, whether that’s raw feeding, or cooked food; this article explains how to balance a raw diet properly. We will also discuss the nutrients which are commonly lacking in a raw diet. Feed a Variety of Proteins Feeding a variety of proteins (meats) is a huge part of balancing your dog’s raw diet. Of course, if your dog is suffering with allergies, and is either on an elimination diet, or limited to a few proteins, this is fine as it’s the best you can do! If your dog is not known to suffer with itchiness or allergies, then feeding as many proteins as possible in your dog’s rotation, is very beneficial. This can be over the course of a week to a month. Different proteins offer different nutrient profiles, which means feeding a variety gives a broader intake of micronutrients, including vitamins and minerals. Let’s take a look at what some of the popular options provide! Chicken: provides high amounts of Vitamin B3 and B12, Selenium, Zinc, Magnesium, Phosphorus, and Biotin. Turkey: rich in Vitamin B6 and B12, Choline, Selenium, Magnesium, and Phosphorus. Beef: great source of Iron, Vitamins B2, B3,B6 and B12, Magnesium, Calcium, Copper, and Zinc. Lamb: Source of Iron, Vitamins B3 and B12, Selenium, and Phosphorus. Duck: Great source of Iron, Selenium and Vitamins B3, B12 and C. Pork: High in various B Vitamins, Zinc, Iron and Phosphorus. Venison: provides Zinc, Phosphorus, Iron, Selenium, a variety of B Vitamins, as well as a small amount of Vitamin E. Rabbit: high in Sodium, Calcium, Phosphorus, and Magnesium. Goat: source of Calcium, Sodium, Phosphorus, Potassium and Magnesium. Salmon: high in Vitamins A, B6, B12 and D, Iodine, Copper, Calcium, Magnesium, and Sodium. There are other options also available, including a variety of other fish products. We will touch on some fish products in the next section! Add in Some Omegas Omegas are essential fatty acids – omega 3 and 6 are the important ones! Omega 3 is anti-inflammatory, whereas omega 6 is inflammatory. Our pets’ meat based diets are naturally high in omega 6, so its important to get plenty of omega 3 into the diet! Cell membranes are partly formed by omegas, and heart and brain health are largely down to omega content in the diet, as well as puppy development, joint and skin health, and weight management. Let’s discuss the different types of omega! Here’s where the words get long… thankfully we abbreviate them! Omega-3 Fatty Acids CANNOT be produced by the body as they are polyunsaturated. There are three Omega-3 fats: Eicosapentaenoic Acid (EPA): found in fatty fish and fish oils, as well as many algal oils. Helps reduce inflammation. Alpha-linolenic Acid (ALA): found in flaxseed oil and chia seeds. For a non-plant based form, oysters can be added in. Aids heart and immune health. Docosahexaenoic Acid (DHA): found in fatty fish , fish oils and algae oils, and eggs. Aids brain health and development. Omega-3 is ANTI-INFLAMMATORY. Omega-6 Fatty Acids are polyunsaturated and also include three different acids – the body can only produce 2 of these. Linolenic Acid (LA): found in sunflower oil and corn. Cannot be produced by the body. Gamma-linolenic Acid (GLA): found in Hempseed oil, borage oil, and Evening Primrose oil. This is the only Omega-6 which is not inflammatory – its great for control of hormones. Arachidonic Acid (ARA): found in meat and poultry, particularly farmed. Omega-6 is INFLAMMATORY (apart from GLA). Sources of omega 3 include: Fatty fish: raw sprats, sardines, salmon, mackerel, herring and trout, tinned sardines or mackerel. Fish oils: Krill Oil, sardine oil, mackerel oil, herring oil. Raw eggs: (EPA and DHA) Green Lipped Mussels and Oil (EPA and DHA) Phytoplankton (EPA and DHA) Algae Oil (DHA HEAVY with a little EPA) Flaxseed Oil (ALA – also contains LA, and conversion to EPA is poor, so perhaps not the best choice) It’s very important to ensure there’s plenty of omega in the diet! Findings Here Findings Here Add in Some Plant Matter Adding some plant matter to your dog’s diet brings great benefits! Not only does plant matter provide fibre (which helps gut motility), polyphenols, phytonutrients and antioxidants are also introduced into the diet. Polyphenols help regulate metabolism, help maintain a healthy weight, help regulate and reduce the risk of chronic disease, and also aids the replication of cells within the body. Keeping the body free from chronic disease, at a healthy weight, and with a good metabolic rate may aid longevity! Findings Here Phytonutrients are essential for immune system modulation which helps keep various diseases at bay. Phytonutrients are thought to help prevent chronic disease such as cancer and diabetes, as well as supporting joints, digestive health, circadian rhythms (sleep patterns), and brain development. Findings Here Findings Here Findings Here Antioxidants also aid longevity by destroying free radicals in the body. Free radicals form during oxidisation, and are unstable atoms which damage cells in the body and lead to ageing. Destroying the free radicals slows the process of ageing due to lack of damage to the cells in the body. Findings Here Fruits and Vegetables are also full of vitamins and minerals so can really boost an 80:10:10 meal! Some examples of suitable plant matter include: Kale Spring greens Asparagus Broccoli Brussels Sprouts Cabbage Cauliflower Courgette Green beans Strawberries Mango Pear Apple Up to 10% of the weight of the portion of raw meat can be added! It’s a good idea to lightly steam and/or blend vegetables before feeding, to make them more bioavailable, by breaking down the cellulose cell wall. What is often Lacking from the Raw Diet? When feeding a raw diet, while it’s the best, most natural diet available (though not all tolerate it – that’s what we’re here for!), there are 6 nutrients which are often lacking in most raw diets. Try to include a variety of these sources! Zinc (essential for cell growth, DNA
Here at My Pet Nutritionist, we often help pet owners battle with oxalate crystals/stones in their pets. A diagnosis of any urinary stone can seem daunting, but that’s where we can step in to help! This is a handy guide to the ins-and-outs of Calcium Oxalate stones! What are Oxalate Stones? Oxalate stones, formally known as Calcium Oxalate stones, are formed of microscopic crystals of calcium oxalate. They’re the second most common type of urinary stone found in dogs, second to Struvite stones. If left untreated, oxalate crystals are one of the leading causes of kidneys stones. Males tend to get diagnosed with oxalate stones more often than females, and they’re more common in older dogs than they are in younger dogs. Some breeds are predisposed to Oxalate Stones. These include: Miniature schnauzer Yorkshire terrier Lhasa apso Bichon frise Shih Tzu Miniature poodle Chihuahua Jack Russel Findings Here Findings Here Symptoms of Oxalate Stones There are a number of symptoms caused by oxalate stones, including: Difficulty urinating Bloody or cloudy urine Smelly urine Frequent urination Distended abdomen Lack of appetite Changes in behaviour Lethargy Vomiting If your dog has such symptoms, it’s important to seek veterinary assistance. How Do They Form? Studies show that feeding a diet that causes high levels of urine acidity can contribute to the formation of oxalate stones. Research suggests that urine high in calcium, citrates and oxalates (these changes to urine are largely controlled by diet) can increase the risk of the dog having oxalate stones. Breed, and sex predisposition are huge factors in the formation of oxalate stones, alongside the aforementioned dietary factors. Findings Here Findings Here Diagnosis, and Getting Rid of Oxalate Stones When taken to the vet, the dog will have a blood sample taken, and a full blood panel will be run. A urinalysis will also be performed to check for increased levels of acidity, calcium, citrates and oxalates. If bladder stones are not able to be felt through palpation of the bladder, an x-ray may be performed to work out exactly what we are dealing with. Unfortunately, oxalate stones usually require surgical intervention, as they cannot be dissolved once formed. Like with Cysteine stones, smaller crystals may be able to be flushed out using urohydropropulsion, however as these crystals, untreated, can grow rapidly and cause urine infections, most veterinary surgeons would prefer to operate and remove all crystals as a first port of call. Findings Here Supporting the Body, and Preventing Oxalate Stones There are many ways we can support the body to prevent recurring formation of oxalate stones. Let’s discuss these! Probiotics Studies show that probiotics are effective at breaking down oxalates in the digestive system, so it’s wise to give a good, broad spectrum probiotic every day. Avoid high calcium, acidic, and high oxalate foods It’s incredibly important to keep the pH of the urine as alkaline as possible. There are certain foods we recommend to avoid feeding your dog if they have history of oxalate stone development. These include: Spinach (high in oxalates) Leafy Greens (the darker they are, the more oxalates they contain) Beets (high in oxalates) Citrus fruits (high in citrates and oxalates) Legumes (high in lectin, and oxalates) Beans (high in lectin and oxalates) Nuts and seeds (high in oxalates) Berries (high in oxalates) Increase moisture intake Always insure your dog is drinking plenty of water! A high moisture diet is also incredibly important, be it raw, or freshly cooked. You can also ‘float’ the food, by adding extra water to it. Check out our low oxalate recipe here! Limit sodium intake Another reason to avoid dry foods, is that they’re often high in salt. Salt is very dehydrating on the body, so it’s important to limit sodium intake. Findings Here Findings Here Findings Here Has your dog been diagnosed with Oxalate, of any other type of urinary tones? If the answer is YES, don’t hesitate to book a consultation with one of our team! Team MPN x
This year, tick infestations seem to be particularly bad. At My Pet Nutritionist, we have had many worried pet owners coming to us, regarding tick prevention, worrying about potential diseases the ticks their dogs are picking up may carry. This guide explains what ticks are, how to identify them, how the severity of tick bites differs depending on your location in the world, what diseases ticks can carry, and how to help prevent tick bites. We will also discuss the dangers of conventional tick treatments, and explain how to safely remove any engorged ticks. (Did anyone get the ode to Fantastic Beasts, and Where to Find Them?! Ticks are definitely not ‘fantastic’ beasts, however!) How to Identify a Tick Ticks are often mistaken for skin tags… or those latched on the stomach area, often mistaken for nipples! Ticks have very small heads, and large, shiny, rounded bodies. They have 8 legs, which protrude from around the head area. Ticks can be a variety of colours, from peachy-nude, to red, to dark brown, grey and black. They can be seen crawling across your pet’s fur, or engorged, in which case, only the large rounded body will be visible, with the legs also visible right next to the skin. We will talk about tick removal later in this article. Ticks in the UK In the UK, our tick population doesn’t tend to carry diseases which are deadly to healthy dogs, unlike other countries which have ticks carrying more severe diseases. We have around 20 species of tick in the UK. The most common species of tick in the UK are Castor Bean ticks (Ixodes Ricinus), Hedgehog ticks (Ixodes hexagonus), and Dog ticks (Ixodes canisuga), though deer ticks are sometimes picked up. Ticks in the Rest of the World Ticks in countries outside of the UK can be much more dangerous than those in the UK, to both humans and dogs. Paralysis ticks are an example – once engorged, Australian Paralysis ticks (Ixodes holocyclus) and the European Red Sheep tick (Haemaphysalis punctata) release a neurotoxin which causes paralysis in the host. Another of the more dangerous ticks is the Lone Star tick (Amblyomma Americanum) which can transmit ehrlichiosis in dogs, which can cause internal bleeding, and death. In humans, the Lone Star tick can cause Alpha-gal syndrome, which is a severe allergy to red meat, and products made from mammals. But What About Lyme Disease? Often carried by Deer Ticks, Lyme disease is the most common potential disease transmitted from ticks. In humans, Lyme Disease is a very debilitating condition, and has a huge affect on one’s quality of life. Humans affected, will likely be on very long courses, or even lifelong medication. Thankfully, Lyme Disease in dogs is much less of a worry! Dogs have a great ability to fight the bacteria causing Lyme Disease. In a study of Beagles exposed to Lyme disease, none of the adult dogs showed any symptoms! Puppies naturally have a less developed immune system, so the puppies in the study had around 4 days of mild symptoms, before their immune system fought off the bacteria! By keeping the immune system strong, we can reduce the risk of symptomatic Lyme Disease in our dogs! Feed fresh, and keep the gut healthy to help keep the immune system strong! Interesting fact: For transmission of Lyme Disease, a tick has to be engorged (attached to your dog, feeding) for 24-36 hours. If removed safely before this period, the risk of transmission is low. Findings Here How To Safely Remove a Tick First we’ll explain how NOT to remove a tick, as this is incredibly important to minimise the risk of disease transmission, and is a common mistake made by pet owners. The cardinal sin in tick removal, is smothering it. Never smother a tick in Vaseline, natural tick prevention, or any other product, and never attempt to burn them off. When you smother a tick, they let go as they are unable to breathe efficiently, however this also causes them to panic. When a tick panics, they regurgitate. Their innards, which could be hosting disease, would be expelled into your dog’s blood stream! If the tick is carrying anything untoward, it would be passed onto your dog! Now onto the SAFE removal of a tick! There are 4 tools you can use! Let’s take a look at each of these! Tick Twisters: These are plastic tools, with a forked end. Simply slide the tick between the forks, right by the skin, so the tick’s head is in the tool, and twist it. The twisting action causes the tick to let go. Tick Keys: These have a large hole, with a very thin opening at the end. Simply hook the tick into the thinnest part of the hole, and pull away from the skin. This pulls the tick from the skin. Tick Lassos: These are pen-like items, with a retractable wire loop at one end. Hook the wire over the tick, and retract it so the tick cannot move. Gently twist, and pull it away from the skin. Tweezers: This is probably the least effective method, but perhaps slightly more accessible if you don’t have a tick tool at home yet (it’s a great idea to add one to your dog first aid kit!). Fine pointed tweezers work best. Pinch the tick with the tweezers as close to the skin as possible, and gently lift the tick away. Be sure to remove the head! Once removed, spray the area with Leucillin, or similar natural antiseptic spray. How to Prevent Ticks There are a number of natural tick prevention methods available. A layered approach is best; an internal product, an external product, and perhaps a repelling collar. Internal products often include herbs such as neem leaf, peppermint leaf, yucca, ginger, fenugreek, lemon balm, and garlic. These all make the dog unattractive to ticks. Fresh garlic is a great internal preventative, in the correct amounts for your size of dog. Do
