This is the stuff of most owner’s nightmare’s! Wriggly worms in the poop isn’t exactly heart warming, but fear not, we are going to take look at the different types of worms and how to naturally prevent them. A little 101 on all the worms and how to effectively and safely ward them off and manage potential problems. There are three main groups of worms to consider in our dogs, intestinal worms, these include, roundworm, whipworm, hookworm, tapeworm. Then we have lungworm and heartworm, although heartworm does not exist in the U.K. ROUNDWORMS Roundworms also know as toxocara canis are the most commonly found worms in our dogs. They have the appearance of spaghetti and can reach several inches long! They live in the intestinal tract of the dog and feed off undigested food. Roundworms are very common in puppies. Transmission Roundworms can be transmitted in several different ways. They can be passed from mother to puppy whilst in the womb and through the mothered milk when nursing. Roundworms can also be spread by sniffing or eating infected faeces or eating infected animals like rodents, birds and earthworms, that are of course infected. Symptoms Roundworms are the most serious for puppies and young dogs as they can suffer from malnutrition, weight loss and have pot dog pot bellied appearance, as well as vomiting and diarrhoea. You may also notice worms in your dogs poop or vomit. Diagnosis Faecal screen or visually identifying WHIPWORMS Whipworms also known as Trichuris vulpis, live in the caecum of a dog, this is a blind ended pocket located near the large intestine. They grow to around 30-50 mm in length and get their name from their whip like appearance with a thick anterior and a very long thin posterior. Whipworms attach themselves to the mucosal lining of the caecum and feed on blood and tissue fluids. Transmission Dogs become infected by consuming soil of faeces that is contaminated with whipworm eggs. Symptoms Whipworms cause serious irritation and inflammation of the lining of the caecum, causing watery, bloody diarrhoea, weigh loss, anaemia and lethargy. If infestation is large it can be fatal. Diagnosis Faecal screen HOOKWORMS Hookworms also know as ancylostoma caninum, get there name from their hook like mouth piece, they are around 3mm in size and very difficult to see with the naked eye. They hook themselves to the wall of intestines and ingest blood from the tiny vessels. Transmission Hookworms can be transmitted in several different ways, in utero, through mother’s milk, oral ingestion and the larva can burrow through the skin! Symptoms Hookworms can cause lots of symptoms including pale gums, bloody stools, poor growth, weakness and severe anaemia, that can lead to death. Hookworms can also cause dermatitis and itchy skin especially on the paws where the larva has buried into the skin. Diagnosis Faecal screen TAPEWORMS There are a lots of different species of tape worms, a common tapeworm is taenia echinococcus but the most commonly found species in U.K. dogs is dipylidium caninum, also known as the flea tapeworm. Tapeworms belong to the cestode family of parasitic worms, they are flat in shape. Tapeworms hook/suck onto the intestinal wall of the dog and absorb nutrients directly through their skin. Tapeworms are made up of segments, these are called proglottids that detach from the worm and are essentially a bag full of eggs, ready to infect the environment and their next host. Transmission Tapeworms are carried by live stock and your dog would need to ingest a cyst to be infected, the larva in that cyst would then grow into an adult tapeworm, if it is a flea tapeworm they must first ingest a flea that has been infected with tapeworm larva, that will develop into an adult tapeworm. Symptoms Tapeworms can cause a whole host of symptoms from dull coat, weight loss and vomiting. Dogs will often scoot and bite at their back end, and in some cases you will see a proglottide segment crawling around the anus. Diagnosis Faecal screen or seen proglottides in faeces. LUNGWORM Lungworm also known as French heartworm, Angiostrongylus Vasorum, live in the right ventricle of the heart and pulmonary arteries of our dogs. Transmission Lungworm is transmitted to our dog by either eating a slug or snail that is infected with lungworm larvae, the larvae can also be transmitted to our dogs through the slug/snails slime that is on dogs toys, water bowls or infected puddles. It be noted that not all snails and slugs are infected with lungworm. Symptoms Lungworms can cause serious damage if left untreated. There is lots of symptoms from vomiting, weight and appetite loss, pale gums, bruising and poor blood clotting. Coughing or coughing up blood, as well as other breathing problems such as emphysema and pneumonia. Lungworm also cause heart problems and in extreme cases heart failure, as well as seizures. Diagnosis Faecal screen HEARTWORM Heartworm or dirofilaria immittis is a parasitic roundworm that is a species of filarial worm, that live in the pulmonary arterial systems and heart. They can grow up to several inches long. Transmission Heartworm is transmitted by a mosquito that is infected with microfilariae, an early stage heartworm larvae. The mosquito bites the dog releasing the microfilariae into the blood stream where they make their way to the pulmonary arteries and heart, to develop into adult heartworm. Symptoms Symptoms can be anything from, fatigue, poor appetite, weight loss and coughing to chronic cardiovascular and respiratory disease. In serious cases dog can collapse due to caval syndrome, this is when blood is blocked getting back to the heart due to a high worm burden. Diagnosis Blood test for macrofilariae, these will not be present in blood till after 6 month of initial infection. Antigen test, this tests for a specific protein released by female heartworms, The earliest you can test for this protein is 5 months after initial infection. It is advised to have an annual testing for heartworm. Natural Prevention
Whilst we don’t like to bash pet foods and understand that people are often looking for convenience and economical options, we always feel it’s important to highlight why dry food is not a good option for your pet. Fresher food always prevails in my clinic and there are thousands of people who will testify to the wonderful effects of a fresh food diet. There’s a myth that feeding fresher foods is a lot more expensive. Like anything, there is something to suit all budgets and well we believe, if you have invested your time and love into a furry member of the family, then it’s worth considering the best options to support their health. Before we begin to look at dry foods, its important to understand a little more about our dogs and where they have come from to understand their needs. We have domesticated dogs for around 30,000 years. Dogs are facultative carnivores which means their main diet should be a meat based diet but they can survive on other foods if required. Cat’s are obligate carnivores, meaning they are solely carnivorous and wouldn’t survive without a meat based diet. Dogs are a species of canid but domesticated dogs are the closest related ancestors to the grey wolf. We have changed the shape and size of domestic dogs but there has been very little evolutionary change to the digestive system. A domestic dog’s digestive system is designed to eat fresh raw meat and bones (this is where their high and relative need for calcium and phosphorus come from). The first dry food was only produced in 1957 by Purina and since the 1970s, the average age of a dog has gone from 17yrs to 11yrs. Nutrition is not solely responsible for this drop but feeding ultra processed foods, plays a huge huge part in your dog’s longevity and quality of life. Dry food Is made by the extrusion process, extruded food goes through four extremely high heat processes, so you can imagine what that does to the nutrients. You are left with something that is dead “food” void of nutrients, antioxidants, enzymes, fatty acids and probiotics. The food is then sprayed with a layer of fat and flavour enhancers to make it palatable to dogs, then sprayed with a pre mix of synthetic vitamins and minerals. As if all this is not bad enough, food that contains protein and carbohydrates when heated to high temperatures, causes glycemic end products to be formed. AGE’s have been linked to free radical damage, cancer and premature ageing. The other big issue with pet food is the amount of glyphosates, a chemical herbicide (weed killer) used on crops such as wheat, corn, soy and potatoes, commonly used on ingredients found in pet foods. When certain brands were tested for glyphosates, the amounts were considerably higher than expected. Glyphosates are deemed carcinogenic and linked to cancer and many other diseases. We know one in two dogs will get cancer in his/her life time. Research here Another concern with dry food, is most contain a huge amount of carbohydrates. As we know, our dogs are facultative carnivores and our cats, obligate carnivores, which means they need a meat based diet to thrive. Both cats and dogs have no to little nutritional requirements for dietary carbohydrates. They can obtain everything they require from a diet that contains only protein and fat. Energy metabolism in both cat and dog can be based on fat oxidation and the breakdown of protein to produce glucose. Carbohydrates=sugar and can cause a host of problems including systemic inflammation. If your cat or dog has IBS, IBD, arthritis, allergies, bad breath, constant ear infections, urinary issues, obesity, yeast infections, kidney disease, liver disease, thyroid issues, cancer and more, then the first thing to do is look to the food you are feeding, and go from there. Structurally, carbohydrates (starches mostly) are essential to dry pet food manufacturing as commercial extruded pet foods use these starches to give the food structure and texture. Even some canned dog foods contain a carbohydrate source to create a gelling agent. Frequently used carbohydrate sources used in dry food/pet food include grains such as rice, maize, corn, potatoes, legumes, and fillers such as milled beet. The carbohydrate content is not given in dry food but you can work it rather easily. Some popular fed dry foods have shocking results! In most cases there’s more carbohydrates in the food than protein! Most of these dry foods are almost half a bag of carbohydrates. If you want to work out the amount of carbohydrates in your dogs food add the percent of: Protein Fat Ash Fibre Moisture (if not stated 8%) together then subtract the amount from 100, this will leave you the percent of carbohydrates in the food. Here are some of the most common dry food brands: JAMES WELLBELOVED protein 20% Carbohydrates 48% JAMES WELLBELOVED GRAIN FREE protein 21% Carbohydrates 46.8% MILLIES WOLFHEART LAMB AND VEG Protein 19% Carbohydrates 45.5% EDEN protein 45% Carbohydrates 18.5% WAINWRIGHT GRAIN FREE protein 25% Carbohydrates 40% AVA MEDIUM ADULT protein 26% Carbohydrates 46.6% HARRINTONS GRAIN FREE protein 25% Carbohydrates 44.5% BURNS protein 18.5% Carbohydrates 57.8% ROYAL CANIN protein 25% Carbohydrates 45% CANAGAN protein 33% carbohydrates 32.5% TAILS protein 22.3% Carbohydrates 46.9% AKELA Protein 39% Carbohydrates 20.5% ORIJEN protein 38% Carbohydrates 23% HILLS IDEAL BALANCE protein 23.5 Carbohydrates 44.1% AATU protein 32% Carbohydrates 43% BARKING HEADS protein 26% EDGAR AND COOPER Protein 25% carbohydrates 41% STEP UP TO NATURALS protein 22% Carbohydrates 47.2% BAKERS protein 21% Carbohydrates 50% WAGG Protein 21% Carbohydrates 49.8 PEDIGREE protein 21% Carbohydrates 42.9 The Ideal Omega-6 to Omega-3 ratio for pet food is 4:1. This can go up to 6:1 quite comfortably but reaching a higher ratio than this can cause a huge amount of systemic inflammation. The average dry food offers 20:1 and can go as high as 50:1. This is another blog to venture. A required percentage of moisture in your pet’s food should
I see many sick cats and dogs (mostly dogs) coming through the door at MPN, with owners at a loss as to what to do next. Whilst we see so much disease and every pet is different, there are some set things I always recommend to everyone, that are imperative to your pet’s health. This is to detox their life and GET RID OF THE CHEMICALS. I have heard several sad stories about reactions and disease caused by treatments, mostly neurological damage and death from flea treatments and worming stories where the dog went into fits and endured life long seizures. If we aren’t personally meant to handle these chemicals, then they shouldn’t be going on or in our pet’s bodies. Conventional chemical flea and tick treatments from your vet or over the counter, are highly toxic pesticides that accumulate in the blood, skin and tissue. When you give your dog these chemical treatments, they work systemically (throughout the body). They are absorbed into his/her blood so when a flea or tick feeds on your dog’s blood, they also eat the chemical Isoxazolines, and become paralysed, eventually dying. Both fleas and ticks have to bite and latch on, to suck your dogs blood, before becoming paralysed and dying from the pesticides. It can take hours upon hours before the fleas and ticks die. This allows sufficient time for the fleas to become bothersome and the ticks to spread disease. The problem with these chemicals is to kill the parasites, they have to poison your cat or dog first. These awful chemical treatments can also cause neurological issues and permanent damage in cats and dogs. The US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) put out a warning on Isoxazoline flea and tick products in September 2018, warning on the potential neurological adverse reactions. The side effects range from, diarrhoea, vomiting, lethargy, seizures, convulsions, skin disorders, ataxia and death. Although this warning has been given, sadly the FDA still states that they work with manufacturers and deem it safe with side effects now listed to make this a known danger? Apparently to note dangers within the labelling and making statements on potential dangers, now makes this a non safety issue. I’m still scratching my head. Any safety data on these products are only tested a few months, so we don’t even know about the long term implications. Those treatments containing Isoxazoline: Bravecto (fluralaner) tablets for dogs Bravecto (fluralaner) topical solution for cats and dogs Credelio (lotilaner) tablets for dogs Nexgard (afoxalaner) tablets for dogs Simparica (sarolaner) tablets for dogs Revolution Plus (selamectin and sarolaner topical solution) for cats and used in the prevention of heartworms Natural Solutions Using a natural preventative is far safer and effective than conventional means. In using chemical treatments, these are designed to kill the parasite once on the host, whereas the natural prevention aims to repel fleas and ticks, so your cat or dog doesn’t even become a host. This is a more effective approach at preventing disease if done appropriately. To protect against fleas, ticks and worms, there are several natural and effective options you can consider so please read on. Flea, tick and worming products Flea products and tick products are incredibly toxic and overload the body when the immune system is already under challenge. Fleas aren’t a great concern although very bothersome and cause discomfort and allergies in your pet, but ticks are a problem. Make sure after every walk you check your dog thoroughly and invest in a tick removal kit if you are in a zone for ticks (there’s a tick key listed down below). They can be dangerous to your dog as they carry disease. There are lots of natural products out there. Rotating them is important as fleas and ticks are adaptable and you need to make sure your pets are not a desirable host. Homemade Itchy Dog Spray of apple cider vinegar mixed spritz potion can be an effective flea and tick deterrent; 1. 250mls of organic Apple cidar vinegar and preferably from the mother (this means Apple cider vinegar that is simply unrefined, unpasteurised. unfiltered and from the mother). Organic AC Vinegar 2. 250mls of distilled water, filtered water, bottled water but definitely not tap water. 3. Fresh chamomile (organic preferably) or a teabag steeped in boiling water for 30 minutes (to be added as part of the 250mls water). 4. 10 drops of Organic lavender aromatherapy oil and/or a few drops of essential oils such as lemon eucalyptus, tea tree, sandalwood, clary sage and patchouli. If you decide to use this on the cat too (avoid the aromatherapy oils due to the phenolics: this can be toxic to cats). 5. Water spray bottle. I prefer brown glass but we don’t have to go fancy here. Just make sure its stored in a cool dry place and if plastic, doesn’t sweat as PCB’s could leak into your lovely potion. Alternatively, you can go for a spray already made up from Greens for healthy pets called Don’t Bug Me! Don’t Bug Me Hedge row hounds offers a wonderful herbal mix called natures bounty, that is easily and safely added to food. Natures Bounty Diatomaceous earth is a good effective option although if your dog has sensitivities, allergies or any breathing problems, tread with caution. Food grade diatomaceous earth is made from teeny, tiny sea creatures, often found in places like the white cliffs of Dover. It dehydrates and suffocates the parasites and their eggs, thus killing them. Please ensure this is a good quality, food grade product as it can have high levels of toxicity. It can be used to sprinkle around the home and dusted through your dog’s coat. Care should be taken not to breath in the powder (caution with your dog too). Diatomaceous Earth Another lovely spray with beautiful essentials, sprayed before you go on a walk and perhaps afterwards, can be helpful in warding off critters. Biospotix do natural spot ons and collars. Biospotix Flea Spray A natural flea collar or
A brilliant guide on how to vaccinate safely, here it is in all it’s glory, everything you need to know about taking care of your pet, not over vaccinating, being responsible and taking care of your pet, based on scientific review. Guidelines from the World Small Animal Veterinary Association are at the core of this article and something many vets ignore or don’t know about. UNDERSTANDING VACCINATIONS, IMMUNISATION, TITER TESTING AND WSAVA GUIDELINES The World Small Animal Veterinary Association (WSAVA) is a global veterinary community that bases their guidelines on evidence based veterinarian medicine. These guidelines are to give vets the current scientific advice on the best vaccination concept. In this blog we will be discussing core vaccinations, the difference between vaccinating and immunising and WSAVA guidelines on vaccination protocol and titer testing. Core vaccinations are “parvovirus, hepatitis and distemper” this is the DHP three in one vaccination currently in the UK. The only vaccinations you can give on its own is parvovirus. What is the difference between vaccinating and immunisation? Just because you have vaccinated your dog does not mean that your dog is immunised, when we give a vaccination, we aim to immunise. When a dog is immunised it means that the vaccination has worked and the dog has immunity to the diseases it has been vaccinated against. If you give the last vaccination when your pup is too young, they will still be covered by the mothers maternal immunity and the vaccination will not work/take. Then once the mothers maternal immunity has wained they can be unprotected against those diseases. If you have a dog that is a non responder, it is impossible to immunise them no matter how often you give a vaccination, these dogs will always be susceptible to those diseases. WSAVA guidelines on puppy vaccinations The recommendations are for initial core vaccinations at 6-8wks of age, then every 2/4wks until 16wks of age, then a booster at 6-12 months or a titer test 4wks after the 16wk vaccination, to check if the puppy is immunised. If the pup is immunised, then the guidelines say there is no need for the 6-12 month booster. The difficulty is knowing at what age it is best to give the first vaccination as most pups with be covered by their mothers maternal immunity (MDA). Maternal immunity is passed to the pup through the colostrum in the mother’s milk. Maternal immunity can begin to wain as little as 8 weeks but can last up to 14-16 weeks and for this reason, the WSAVA states, there is “No single primary vaccination policy will therefore cover all situations”. When getting a pup, it is important to know if the mother is immunised, if so the pup will have some maternal immunity. If you vaccinate early and give three vaccinations, you risk over vaccinating your pup but if you wait till later to vaccinate, there is a risk of your pup getting one of the illnesses. It depends on your pups circumstances and what risk you see as the greater. My advice is to base your decision on this. If the pup is hand reared, the pup will not have any maternal immunity therefore the earlier vaccinations would be more beneficial. Waiting to give the last vaccination at 16 weeks is important as this is when the dog is most capable of responding to the vaccination, as all of the mother’s maternal immunity will have wained. How often should core vaccinations “parvovirus, hepatitis and distemper” be given? Often these vaccinations are given annually, this should not happen as the data sheet that comes with the DHP vaccine states “once every three years”. Once every three years, is in most cases, still too frequent for most dogs as the science has proven by serological testing and by challenge that core vaccinations can last up-to the life time of the pet. This is why it is so important to always titer test before giving core vaccinations. WSAVA guidelines state not to be given more frequently than every three years. This does not mean to give every three years, it means they should not ever be given sooner that three years. Please see WSAVA guidelines below. WSAVA GUILDLINES ❗️VACCINATIONS SHOULD NOT BE GIVEN NEEDLESSLY❗️ ❗️CORE VACCINATIONS SHOULD NOT BE GIVEN MORE FREQUENTLY THAN ONCE EVERY THREE YEARS BECAUSE THE DURATION OF IMMUNITY IS MANY YEARS AND MAY BE UP TO THE LIFE TIME OF THE PET❗️ ❗️A DOG THAT HAS RESPONDED TO CORE VACCINATIONS MAINTAINS SOLID IMMUNITY (immunological memory) FOR MANY YEARS IN THE ABSENCE OFANY REPEAT VACCINATIONS❗️ ❗️IT MUST BE REMEMBERED THAT EVEN THE THREE YEAR LICENCE IS A MINIMUM DURATION OF IMMUNITY AND FOR MOST CORE VACCINATIONS THE TRUE DURATION OF IMMUNITY IS LIKELY TO BE CONSIDERABLY LONGER IF NOT LIFELONG❗️ ❗️AN ADOPED ADULT DOG (OR PUPPY OVER 16WKS OF AGE) OF UNKNOWN VACCINATION HISTORY REQUIRES ONLY A SINGLE DOSE OF CORE VACCINATION TO ENGENDER A PROTECTIVE IMMUNE RESPONSE❗️ WSVSA statement on giving more than one core vaccination to an adult dog (or pup over 16 weeks of age and restarting vaccinations is….. ❗️THIS PRACTICE IS UNJUSTIFIED AND IS SIMPLY CONTRARY TO THE FUNDAMENTAL PRINCIPLE OF IMMUNOLOGICAL MEMORY❗️ How does a titer work? To explain titer testing a little more, a titer test is a simple blood test that will look for circulating antibodies in the dogs bloodstream. When you do a titer test, the level of the titer (antibodies) is irrelevant, it doesn’t matter if your dogs titers come back high or low. Any measurable antibodies means the dog has immunity. These titers will go up and down depending what the circumstance is. A high titer doesn’t mean your dog is more immune than a low titer, a high titer can mean one of two things. The dogs immune system has been over stimulated by vaccinations or your dog has just come into contact with a said disease. For example, if there is a parvo outbreak in your area, your dogs
There’s some mixed feelings about mushrooms but they get a lot of press and rightly so. They are wonderful and each have a magical affect with direct correlation and clinical research to immune and organ support. There are a lots of species of mushrooms and not all medicinal but most magical. Mushrooms help to regenerate, prevent, protect and intervene with certain disease states and the research is growing. The magical mushrooms we will look at today are Maitake, Shiitake, Reishi, Cordyceps, Coriolus and AHCC (active hexose correlated compound). These mushrooms offer nutritional abundance and amazing cell and immune function: Minerals such as potassium, selenium, sodium,zinc, phosphorus Sugars such as mannitol, xylose, glucose, galactose, mannose Vitamins such as b complex, folic acid, vitamin D Proteins essential amino acids Lipids such as phospholipids, sterols, free fatty acids, mono-, di- and triglycerides Polysaccharides such as glycogen and beta-D-glucans Enzymes such as proteolytic The most powerful of all of these are the polysaccharide fraction, mainly beta-glucans, responsible for the immune-modulating effects. Fungal beta-glucans have been shown to activate leukocytes, which depend on structural characteristics of beta-glucans. Findings here Polysaccharopeptides are protein-bound polysaccharides (carbohydrates) that are found in many mushrooms. Krestin (PSK) and Polysaccharide Peptide (PSP) are two types of polysaccharopeptides. Both PSK and PSP possess powerful immune-boosting properties. They promote immune response by both activating and inhibiting specific types of immune cells and by suppressing inflammation. Due to their ability to naturally strengthen the immune system, PSP and PSK are commonly used as anti-cancer agents in conjunction with human surgery, chemotherapy and/or radiation in countries like Japan. Maitake (Grifola frondosa); may help to regulate blood sugar, support heart health, boost the immune system, particularly in cancer care. In fact maitake has shown the most promise in helping support cancer patients. In 2004, an in vitro study showed the effectiveness in 3 types of dog cancer, CF33- Mammary cancer cells, CF21-Connective tissue cancer cells and CL1- Lymphoma cancer cells. The significant study showed that the D-fraction of maitake held the ability to inhibit the growth of the CF21 and CF33 cancer cells. Findings here Shiitake (Lentinula edodes); contain ergothioniene, an active compound that provides potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and regenerative properties, as well as lentinan, a compound that may help fight against bacterial, viral and parasitic infections. Shiitake is shown to support liver function, lower blood cholesterol levels, help regulate blood sugars, support skin conditions, used in supporting the immune system in prostate or breast cancer. Findings here Reishi (Ganoderma lucidum): a powerful medicinal mushroom that has been found to possess immune-modulating and immune-potentiating capabilities. Reishi has been characterised as a wonder herb, helping with possible inflammation and allergic reaction. Reishi may help with liver function, fatigue, cancer, skin disorders, digestive issues and possible leaky gut. Findings here Cordyceps Sinensis; may help endurance and stamina during exercise, may have anti-ageing properties due to it containing an enzyme called super oxide dismutase. May have a potential anti-tumor effect, may help to modulate blood sugars, support heart health and help to fight inflammation. Findings here Turkey Tail (Coriolus versicolor); contains a variety of powerful antioxidants and other compounds that may help boost your dog’s immune system and even help fight certain cancers. possessing powerful immune-boosting properties. They promote immune response by both activating and inhibiting specific types of immune cells and by suppressing inflammation. A test-tube study found that turkey tail extract modified gut bacteria composition by increasing populations of beneficial bacteria such as Bifidobacterium and Lactobacillus whilst reducing potentially harmful bacteria such as Clostridium and Staphylococcus. Findings here AHCC® (active hexose correlated compound); is a natural substance extracted from certain species of basidiomycetes, a class of mushrooms that includes shiitake. Research on a canine study showed AHCC treatment might be effective for improvement of clinical state and anti-tumor effect. Findings here Findings here Mushrooms are a wonderful addition and one to explore if you wish to add them to your pet’s plate. As always, we are here to help, so check out our services, click the link below. Consultations MPN Team x
We can’t tell you how much My Pet Nutritionist talk about anal glands and pooping with people. We can wake up to pictures of my client’s dog’s poop on my phone (on a daily basis). It’s a real thing people! Anal gland issues and sloppy pooh are problems that you pet parents come up against every day. We know from research, that just over 10% of dogs will have issues with their anal glands, in their lifetime. Cat’s also have anal glands but we don’t see this issue crop up in the vets as commonly due to the nature of their social habits. Although anal glands are supposed to empty as faeces are passed, this doesn’t always happen. Over time the anal glands can fill up and can become inflamed, impacted and pretty painful. There can be many reasons why, some simple and some more complex. There are a lot of things we can do naturally for anal gland issues, so read ahead peeps. Function and Symptoms The anal glands function is to release pheromones, enabling the communication between dogs and other mammals, including cats. The anal glands located on the lower sides of the anus, produce a fluid with a scent that identifies him or her, communicating sex, health and approximate age to other animals. This is the reason why dogs sniff each’ others bottoms and love mooching for ‘scents’. These sacs excrete fluid when the dog/cat has a bowel movement. Discharge in the anal glands should be liquid and if the ducts are open then your dog should have no issues. As faeces pass through the anus, the anal glands become expressed and voila, pheromones are released and communication with the outside world begins. If your dog has impacted anal sacs, they will experience some or all of the below symptoms: Scooting (dragging bottom on the floor) Licking or biting at the bottom area Difficulty sitting or standing On rare occasion, chasing the tail Some vets may recommend removing the glands if the problem is consistent and severe but this SHOULD NEVER HAPPEN, unless there is disease of the glands, such as cancer. Personally, I’ve seen some awful cases with removed anal glands, as it disrupts the function of the anal sphincter and interferes with the body’s ability to cleanse. They are really unwell dogs and end up displaying other issues, longterm, that are incredibly difficult to support. Always seek a second opinion. It’s all in the Pooh Poor quality bowel movements can contribute to anal glands becoming impacted. So what should a healthy stool look like? To fully express the anal glands, the faeces need to look quite bullet like, powdery and dry. Your dog should not strain but a firm, pick-up-able poop, that one is able to hold between the thumb and middle finger (without it breaking), is an optimum poop. This will aid in the anal glands expressing more efficiently. Check out our guide on pooh here. The Ultimate Dog Pooh Guide Other reasons for Anal Gland Issues Sometimes a dog’s anal sac issues can be a symptom of broader systemic issue. This is where our consultation services can be really help. We often find by looking at the 8 systems cycle in functional medicine, we can consider every element of health and see what might be under lying. So here is how we look at the problem. Stress; low grade stress (commonly experienced by many dogs) can interfere with the function of the gut, slowing digestion and the transit of food. Gut microbiota (good bacteria) that supports digestive function can also be destroyed by the effects of stress. Addressing stress can be really helpful. Digestion; poor quality bowel movements can contribute to anal glands becoming impacted. Constipation and diarrhoea can produce stool that isn’t sufficient for the task of emptying the anal sacs. This often allows for constipation or diarrhoea, preventing solid faeces passing over the anal sacs. Supporting healthy levels of digestive and pancreatic enzymes and good levels of gastric juices (HCL), are incredibly important for a healthy functioning bowel. SIBO (small intestinal bacterial overgrowth) and yeast infections have potentially been linked to more frequent anal gland issues. Good bacteria in the gut is essential for optimal function, preventing bad bacteria and yeast overgrowth. Also checking for worms and parasites can be helpful in anal gland dysfunction. Immunity; food allergies, intolerances or sensitivities are due to an under functioning or overly sensitive immune system. It is key to establish if your pet is reacting to any foods, as this can affect digestion. By eliminating them, rebuilding immunity (gut) and addressing inflammation, this can directly impact your pet’s digestive system and anal gland excretion. Neurological; many nutrients are essential for the nervous system and this is a complex system. One key mineral is magnesium, essential for neurological function and in particular the vagus nerve that connects the gut-brain axis. Deficient magnesium can cause a slow ‘peristaltic’ movement within the bowel (a motion that pushes food through the bowel). If this isn’t functioning well, the slow passage of food can equal slow transit of food, creating constipation, slow detoxification and impaired anal sac fluid emptying. Detoxification; is a network of systems but the liver and gallbladder are most closely connected to digestive function helping with fat digestion (emulsification). The liver must be working effectively for the digestive system to work efficiently and reduce the toxic load on the anal glands. Structure; hereditary malformations of the anal glands could also be a cause. This is less common but worth exploring if nothing seems to help. Structure and integrity of the connective tissue with regards to stomach muscles, back muscles, back legs and so forth is supportive in allowing your dog to defecate effectively. Stooping, squatting and pushing all require strength of the body. Some dog’s who are lame will have problems expressing. Working on the structure of your dog’s body can be helpful, if this is an issue. Hormones; low oestrogen can lead to chronic constipation in
Slim fat doggy. We are a globally obsessed about the fat content of foods, limiting fats when we need to lose weight, reducing certain fats in the belief that they are bad for us. The truth is, it’s about balance, it’s about less carbohydrates and more about the quality of proteins and looking at the beautiful essential fats that our dog’s require. Dogs utilise fats rather differently to us but the premise is the same, good fats equals good health. What are fats? The main macronutrients for health are proteins, fats and carbohydrates. Proteins and fats are responsible for many bodily functions. However, carbohydrates are a pure source of energy only and given that the dog only produces a minimal amount of amylase by the pancreas, their need for carbs is very low indeed (think beautiful vegetables here). Fats contain 2.5 times more energy than protein or dietary soluble carbohydrate. Around 90% of dietary fat is made up of triglycerides that are made up of fatty acids and a glycerol. In a fat molecule, the fatty acids are attached to each of the three carbons of the glycerol molecule with an ester bond through the oxygen atom. Here’s the boring bit about classifications of fatty acids…. ‘There are different classifications of fatty acids based on the length of their carbon chain, by the presence or absence of double bonds, the number of double bonds, the position of those bonds along the carbon chain, and by their melting point. Fats with no double bond at all are called saturated fats. Fats containing fatty acid chains with a double bond are called unsaturated fats.” Saturated fats contain the maximum level of hydrogen atoms possible and have no double bonds. Unsaturated fats, some of the hydrogen atoms are missing and have been replaced with double bonds between the carbon atoms. Monounsaturated fats, have one double bond. Polyunsaturated fats, have two or more double bonds. Polyunsaturated fats (PUFA’s) can be divided into two main groups: Omega-6 and Omega-3. The difference between the two is where the first of the double bond occurs. Omega 3 fatty acids, the first double bond occurs on the third carbon atom. In Omega 6 fatty acids, the first double bond is on the sixth carbon atom, counting from the methyl end. Omega-6 fatty acids include linoleic acid (LA), arachidonic acid (AA) and gamma linolenic acid (GLA). Omega-3 fatty acids include alpha linolenic acid (ALA), eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA). What fats are essential for my dog’s health? Your dog requires both saturated and unsaturated fats but in particular balance. If that balance is out, particularly with the polyunsaturated fats, inflammation can occur and therefore, health issues arise. It is proven that dogs metabolise up to 95% of the fats they consume even though fat digestion is more far more complex than breaking down and assimilating protein and carbohydrates. Fats are a highly digestible and accessible form of energy for doggos and absolutely essential for health. Fats have many vital roles within the body; Energy production Development of all cells Neurological function Production of hormones Reproductive support Reduce inflammation Healthy skin and coat Nutrient absorption (such as vitamin A,D,E,K) Let’s talk about the most known and essential to health. Omega-6 and Omega-3 fats help to control hormones in the body such as regulating inflammatory response and blood pressure. Omega-6 fatty acids produce immune hormones that increase inflammation. Omega 6 fatty acids also help with blood clotting, brain function, and normal growth and development, helps stimulate skin and hair growth, maintain bone health, regulate metabolism, and maintain the reproductive system. A diet rich in Omega-6, can often cause skin issues and aggravate allergies, arthritis and any possible inflammatory disease. Omega-3 fatty acids are part of the phospholipid bilayer in the membrane of your dog’s cells. This means that they help regulate cellular communication in every area of the body. Omega-3 fatty acids form a large percentage of brain matter and are the foundation of pro and anti-inflammatory compounds. The balance between Omega-3 and Omega-6 fatty acids is an important part of a healthy immune system and balances out inflammation. A diet poor in Omega-3 can lead to chronic disease and autoimmune disease. Findings here A ratio of approximately 4-1 Omega-6 to Omega-3 is considered optimum for a dog’s diets. Many commercial dog foods contain ratios of 20-1 and sometimes ratios up to 50-1 (often seen in foods that contain high amounts of corn, naturally high in Omega-6 EFAs). This will result in an Omega-3 deficiency and a huge amount of inflammation. If you feed your dog a commercial dog food, it will more than likely be too high in pro-inflammatory Omega-6 fats. And if you feed your dog a raw meat diet that isn’t raised 100% on pasture, they too may be high in pro-inflammatory Omega-6 fats. Sources of Omega-3 and Omega-6 Omega-3 fatty acids, ALA (alpha linolenic acid) is often found in certain plants such as flax seed, sacha inchi seed, hemp seeds, chia seeds, avocado flesh only and oysters. Although ALA foods and supplements are not a substitute for fish or algae oil, due to the high Omega-6 content also, they can be an excellent additional supplement to include in the diet and added to certain meat sources. DHA (docosahexaenoic acid) and EPA (eicosapentaenoic acid) are often found in high levels and good ratios in fish (these have the most anti-inflammatory effect). Found in salmon, tuna, trout, cod, krill, oysters, seabass, mackerel, sardines and anchovies. Non animal sources containing DHA and EPA are phytoplankton and marine algae oil. Although these are wonderful additions to your dog’s diet, they do not contain as much DHA and EPA as fish. They therefore don’t exert as much of an anti-inflammatory effect. Fish and fish oil Whole fish is a wonderful addition to the your dog’s diet but ensuring you don’t feed fish from the Pacific due to radiation, heavy metals and toxins, is essential. Feeding small fish such as krill,
Let’s get talking about gastrointestinal health. There’s a lot involved in keeping your pet healthy and the main area to focus on is the digestive system. We haven’t talked about pooh for once, which is a relief. I’m sure you will agree…. Intestinal issues and disorders are among the most common reasons for trips to the vet whether it be diarrhoea, constipation, IBS and IBD’s and so forth. So, having a healthy gut is more than firming up dog poop and preventing those night time rumbles. It is central to health and one of the eight key factors to functional medicine. It is connected to everything that happens in the body and that’s why we always look to the gut when we start helping pets with chronic health problems. Poor gut health can be linked to allergies, arthritis, autoimmune disease, itching and rashes, fatigue, anxiety, cancer, and so much more. In short, if the gut isn’t functioning at full capacity then neither is your pet’s health. What the Gut does for you and your Pet Intestinal health could be defined as the optimal digestion, absorption, and assimilation of food. It helps to regulate and promote functions throughout the entire body as it absorbs nutrients that support all bodily functions from energy production, hormone signaling, skin health, mental health, immune signaling and toxin and waste elimination. Before we leap into the 7 steps for optimal digestive health, I want to cover the 5 elements to the function within the gut (ecosystem, immunity, gut-brain connection, detoxification and assimilation and absorption). Ecosystem; there are bugs in the gut that form a diverse ecosystem of friendly bacteria that must be in balance for your pet to achieve optimum health. The term now coined for your gut ecosystem is the microbiome. It refers to the collection of genomes from all the microorganisms in the gut environment. This includes bacteria, virus and fungus. Here we will focus on the good bacteria; prebiotics, probiotics and postbiotics. Prebiotics are types of dietary fibre that feed the friendly bacteria in your gut that are often found in certain fruit and vegetables (such as asparagus and bananas), chicory, dandelion greens, flaxseeds, konjac and some fermented foods. To obtain therapeutic effect, prebiotics found in these foods are often extracted and given as supplements (these being Inulin, FOS, GOS, Arabinogalactans and so on). These beautiful prebiotics help the gut bacteria produce nutrients for your pet’s colon cells such as short chain fatty acids such as like butyrate, acetate and propionate. These fatty acids can also be absorbed into the bloodstream and improve metabolic health such as diabetes and hyperlipidemia. Be warned they can cause gas and should be ventured carefully. Then we have good bacteria often referred to as probiotics (probiotic strains). They are live, good, friendly bacteria that help to promote balance in the intestines. They work by increasing (stabilising) the number of good bacteria in the gut, providing a network of communicating bacteria that help support and induce certain functions in the gut. Dietary nutrients may be converted into metabolites by intestinal microbes (probiotics) that serve as biologically active molecules affecting regulatory functions in your pet. They can help to protect the gut mucosa, preventing gut inflammation, leaky gut and other intestinal or systemic disease states. Good bacteria can also attach to the cells and release substances that help prevent bad bacteria from accumulating. In fact, their function is wide and still a lot unknown. If too many of the wrong bacteria, parasites and yeasts can proliferate by a poor digestive ecosystem, this is where issues begin creep in in terms of symptoms (gas, bloating, diarrhoea, itching), yeast infections, food intolerances, leaky gut syndrome, inflammation and then ultimately immune dysfunction where we start to see disease creep in. We then have postbiotics, they are the non-viable bacterial products or metabolic byproducts from pre and probiotic microorganisms that have biologic activity in your pet. Research indicates that postbiotics can have direct immunomodulatory and clinically relevant effects in the body of animals and humans. So in a nutshell this is the ecosystem of the gut. Immunity; approximately 70% of the immune system resides in the gut, so making sure your pet’s digestive system is in tip-top condition is essential. Gut immunity is the ‘one cell-thick layer’ lining of the gut that protects your pet from the toxic environment. Although composed of only a single cell layer, the intestinal epithelium forms a barrier against penetration of bad microbes. Defects in barrier function contributes to the development of inflammation of the gut. Epithelial cells of the small intestine are coated in a glycocalyx of mucins and other glycoproteins that can interact with and trap bacteria in the mucus. If that barrier is damaged and your pet gets ‘leaky gut’, he can become intolerant to foods, that usually may be digested perfectly well. The immune system will become overactive, and it will begin producing inflammation throughout the entire body. Filtering out the good molecules from the bad molecules and protecting the immune system is another important factor in gut health. Gut-brain axis; there is the second brain, gut-brain connection. Did you know that your pet’s gut actually contains more neurotransmitters than the brain? In fact, the gut has a brain of its own. It is called the “enteric nervous system” and it is a very sophisticated. Messages constantly travel back and forth between the gut-brain and the head-brain and when those messages are interfered with in any way, health will suffer. This is often how food and digestion can have a massive impact on behaviour in animals. Detoxification; the gut has to get rid of all the toxins produced as byproducts of your pet’s metabolism (see how I didn’t mention pooh?). It can also help get rid of certain pathogens and toxins that are ingested on a daily basis. The liver supports digestion by processing the nutrients absorbed by the small intestines and secretes bile into the small intestine to help emulsify and digest fats. The bowel is required to metabolise and detoxify this matter with the
These babies hold such wonderful health and anti-inflammatory effect, mostly known to support joint health. GLM’s contains around 90 different fatty acids, glycosaminoglycans (chondroitin sulphate), glutamine (a glycosaminoglycan precursor), vitamins C and E and minerals including zinc, copper and selenium. The synergy of these nutritional components work in perfect harmony to support joint and mobility issues in pet. When looking at joint health you need to consider all mechanisms responsible for the disease and then how to address them. These 4 corners of joint health are all well covered by GLM’s: Inflammation; it’s generally the inflammation and rubbing of joints that create pain and stiffness. The fatty acids in green lipped mussels with EPA (eicosapentaenoic acid) and DHA (docosahexanoic acid) are the most abundant. These are the important fatty acids that are known to reduce inflammation. GLM’s are natural COX inhibitors just like NSAIDS (non-steroidalanti-inflammatory drugs), so they can obtain the same pain free results without the negative side effects. They are also natural LOX inhibitors too. Degradation; is the main reason for the breakdown of the joint matrix. The joint matrix and connective tissue need to be supported by components that replicate the structure of joints, naturally. GLMs are rich in glycosaminoglycans and glycosaminoglycan precursors, known as GAGs. An important GAG found in GLMs is chondroitin sulfate a well-documented structural ingredient for joint support. Oxidation; free radical damage can create more degradation and inflammation so we need to support this with natural antioxidants found in GLM. Vitamin C and E are both abundant in GLM’s and essential for joint care. Joint Lubrication; synovial fluid within the joint matrix is incredibly important to support cushioning and movement. Alterations in synovial fluid (SF) lipid composition have been linked to both osteoarthritis (OA) and rheumatoid arthritis (RA). GLMs provide polysulfated glycosaminoglycans (PSGAGs), the building blocks for cartilage and joint fluid. There are many things to consider in joint health and diet is primary. If you need to know more, please check consultations. Caution must be taken if you think there could be a shellfish allergy. If not, your pet just got real lucky! In our professional opinion and years of using this ingredient, we can safely say it’s totally groovy and a much safer and effective alternative to NSAIDS in joint support! A blog that, for a change, is short and sweet, just the way you like it! MPN Team x
Here at MPN, we see a number of different cases whether it be itching/allergies, cancer, pancreatitis, IBS, IBD, liver and kidney disease and more. There’s a lot that goes into a consultation at MPN and its bespoke to your pet. No 2 clients are going to get the same plan. However, Bentonite clay is one of the ingredients can that be applied to a lot of these problems as an initial support. So, let’s get the dirt on clay! See what I did there? Does your dog dig for soil or want to eat cardboard? Does your cat try and eat litter? Then Bentonite could be just what they are looking for. Clay has been used with the following issues successfully and supported by research for both humans and animals: · Skin issues and Allergies · Digestive issues · Pancreatitis · Kidney and liver Support · Immune support · Parasites · General detoxification My favourite, which is Bentonite clay, can be interchangeably referred to as Montmorillonite clay and are both regarded as an absorbent aluminium phyllosilicate clay from the Smectites family. They are both named after regions they come from but in nature they have the same structure and have a much higher absorption capacity than other clays found in nature and on the market. It has been used and eaten since ancient times as humans believed in its therapeutic benefits. So let’s chat about Bentonite clay and its wondrous abilities. Skin issues and Allergies Due to many skin issues arising from immune reactions and toxicity, Bentonite can be calming and cooling both applied internally and externally. Internally Bentonite clay has proven to remove many different bacteria and fungi, including candida albicans, that can lead to skin issues. It can help support and excrete histamine from the bowel (histamine, we know can create intense itching and can accumulate whether your pet is experiencing allergies or not) and clay can help support liver and kidney function which is essential when detoxification is required due to the above. Applied externally (clay being wet and made into a paste) can help hotspots, wounds, calm itching and help fungal infections. This is our favourite on the market for EXTERNAL application only. Digestive issues Clay can positively affect digestion by boosting gut flora and ridding the digestive tract of any unwanted toxins. One trial states that bentonite may help nutrient absorption through increasing gut flora activity. We know gut flora (microbiota is essential for digestive health and good immunity). Bentonite clay has for a long time been considered as an effective treatment for diarrhoea, IBS and IBD. A trial in 1961, was shown that orally administered bentonite treated 97% of cases with different causative factors of diarrhoea. These being virus infection, food allergy, spastic colitis, mucous colitis, and food poisoning. This is pretty incredible don’t you think? Pancreatitis Clay can be a wonderful addition to a diet in EPI(Exocrine Pancreatic Insufficiency) especially when stools are upset and voluminous. In pancreatitis the pancreas becomes inflamed and enzyme production is less than desired. A trial with montmorillonite clay improved diarrhoea, enhanced intestinal mucosal integrity and the production of digestive enzymes in animals found here. Kidney and liver Support Bentonite can really help kidney and liver function. Two examples of how this may help. Bentonite is a natural phosphate binder which is a essential support in kidney disease. The excess phosphates and urea that the kidneys can’t clear can be greatly helped by Bentonite clay and will allow your pet to feel much better, improving appetite and energy level. SerumUrea is a by-product of kidney disease and poor function. Bentonite is shown to promote the diffusion of urea from blood vessel to intestine, and inhibits the absorption of urea in intestine here. Also Bentonite clay was able to restore liver function during exposure to toxins. And it didn’t affect their digestion of good nutrients here. Immune support We know Bentonite clay supports digestion and over 70% of the immune system resides in the digestive system. We know effective detoxification supports general immune function but we also know cancer and Bentonite have a direct correlation. Bentonite has been shown to inhibit the growth of human cancer cell lines U251 (central nervous system, glioblastoma). It seems that bentonite clay surfaces, controls the levels of metabolic growth components here. It has also been shown to demonstrate an anti-bacterial affect and the ability to pull pathogens out of the bowel here. Parasites Bentonite helps to clear intestinal parasites by dehydrating them, binding to them and then pulling them out of the body. Clay may also be used externally to suffocate and kill parasites on your pet. Dry powder can be put over your pet’s coat or pasting wet clay for a period of time. Just to warn you folks, this could get messy. General detoxification Clay has first and foremost always been considered as a detoxifier. It ultimately helps many of the above issues due to its detoxifying nature. Bentonite clay is negatively charged and so manages to attract and pull out toxins that by nature are positively charged. Clever isn’t it? If your pet has been on a processed diet, been exposed to allergens, pathogens, parasites, vaccinations or just plain fatigued and trying to eat soil, then Bentonite clay is a wonderful supplement to consider. Clay is basically ideal for most of the pet population if taken with caution. How to use Bentonite Clay Bentonite clay needs to be given on an empty stomach and not to be fed food, herbs or medications until at least 2 hours after consumption. Please make sure dose is considered for your pet’s size and health and check with a healthcare professional first if unsure. Also select a reputable and established supplemental clay as it can naturally contain heavy metals and quality can differ between brands. Caution must be taken when given and reassessed after a period of administration. Make sure clean and filtered water is available at all time. The very essence of
Yeah That’s right baby…. The ultimate guide to dog sh!***%t! It’s all we ever seem to talk about morning, noon and night. My Pet Nutritionist get random pictures of dog pooh on our phones at all hours of the day from some people who have never contacted us before. Does this look right, it’s sloppy, a weird colour, there’s undigested stuff in it? It goes on and on and to be honest we love it, yeah you heard us, we love it. So the topic is a little different when you consider my last blog on genetic methylation and DAO production but it’s needed and perhaps handy to know. It’s going to be short and sweet…smelling we hope! Healthy pooh in colour and consistency can vary dependent on the kind of food you feed and any other issues or circumstances your dog can find itself in. Stress and anxiety can cause an intense effect on the bowels, as can overeating, under eating, eating poor foods, reactive foods or other environmentals, dog’s with IBS (often linked to the point before), EPI (exocrine pancreatic insufficiency), bowel disorders and what I deem liver insufficiency. Around 70% of the immune system lies within the gut and our immune system is called upon all day every day so there’s a lot that comes into play when we talk about faeces. We release, as do our dogs, a huge amount of hormones, some very inflammatory to digest food. However, in general terms there are certain things to look out for and particular looking poohs, especially if consistent, that can tell us a lot about possible health and may need to be checked out by the vet. Normal Dog Pooh As I say, it varies dependent on what you feed and although I advocate general fresh feeding, I always see the best poohs on a raw food diet. It can vary from dog to dog and breed to breed. In general, colour should be medium brown, dry and almost chalky looking. Dog’s should extract a lot of moisture through the bowel rendering the pooh rather dry but not too hard. Boom a perfect pooh! Red/Bloody Dog Pooh This can indicate bleeding in the GI tract but usually from the intestines and anus. Streaks of blood may indicate rectal bleeding from straining, it could indicate inflammation such as colitis. In this instance there is usually mucus that streaks through the pooh also although this can be intermittent. It could also mean an anal gland infection or something more serious such as a tumour (please don’t worry this is far more rare). It’s always good for your vet to check for parasites also. Blood means inflammation which could have a number of causes. Always check with your vet if this is consistent. Black/Dark Dog Pooh Black stool in dogs may have a “tarry” type consistency and could be a sign of gastrointestinal bleeding from an abrasion, stomach ulcer or intestinal ulcer. It is usually from the stomach bleed as the fresher and brighter the blood the lower down the small intestinal tract it tends to be. Always check with your vet if this is consistent. Pinky Purplish Dog Pooh Please do remember that if you feed beetroot or poorly digested strawberry,raspberries etc, this can affect the colour of your dog’s pooh making it look pink/purplish. Anything that looks pink and jelly like could be something serious that could indicate hemorrhagic gastroenteritis (HGE). The latter isn’t meant to be ignored as dogs can die from this if left unattended. Green Dog Pooh Dog green pooh can be common if your dog eats large amounts of grass or a lot of undigested plant matter from their food. Grass is often eaten to cleanse, add additional chlorophyll, vits and mins in the diet and of course is just yummy to chew. However green pooh can also be a parasite or certain poisoning. If your dog has consistent green poop for a few days, you must see your vet. Grey Dog Pooh These soft,voluminous, often grey and sometimes greasy looking stools can indicate Exocrine Pancreatic Insufficiency (EPI,) also referred to as maldigestion. This is far more common than you can imagine and owners seem to get used to it as if it’s the norm. EPI is a disease in which the pancreas does not produce the necessary enzymes to digest fat/closely correlated with liver function. If your dog has consistent grey poop, you must see your vet. Orange Dog Pooh Orange pooh can indicate a liver issue, gallbladder or biliary disease. Bile is what changes pooh to the usual brown colour. If transit of pooh is too fast, it can be rather undigested and fat metabolism is not completed. In this case psyllium can be wonderful. If your dog has consistent orange pooh, you must see your vet. MPN Team x
Many clients come to My Pet Nutritionist with their itchy pet, usually dogs, in complete dismay after trying several things to alleviate the itch. Some of these wonderful people have gone all out, trying a fresh diet, raw food, supplements, testing for food and environmental allergies, food sensitivities and so on. Whilst being armed with lots of information and avoiding the ‘supposed culprits’ the itching has not got any better. If anything, at times, it seems worse. We have specialised in functional medicine for a very long time and in the exciting world of human nutrition, we are closely studying genomes, genetic polymorphisms and how nutrition can influence health, based on our genetic make-up. Welcome to the world of epigenetics and nutrigenomics! Although we are studying the dog genome (not cats of yet), we are far behind in comparison to the world of human nutrition. Dogs in particular share a lot of the same pathophysiology in function and disease. We have therefore applied a lot of what we have learnt and researched in the human arena to pet’s health and gaining some great results. In particular, with itchy dogs and what we know in human nutritional terms as ‘histamine intolerance’. Histamine is a necessary part of physiological functions in animals such as protecting against infection and inflammation. It regulates gut function, especially the release of gastric acid as part of the breakdown of proteins in the digestion of food, it acts as a neurotransmitter affecting cognitive function and in dogs helps to deal with anxiety. Histamine is either stored or inactivated by degradative enzymes, Histamine-N-methyltransferase or Diamine Oxidase (DAO). DAO will reside in the GI tract where nearly all histamine from food is metabolised (destroyed/eliminated) by DAO. Due to genetics or nutritional deficiency DAO and Histamine-N-methyltransferase production can be lacking and therefore histamine can build up and here in lies the problem. Histamine can also be naturally occurring in foods or can release additional histamine known as a ‘histamine liberators’. Those naturally containing high histamine foods are often fermented such as kefir and sauerkraut and other foods such as tomato and spinach. Foods known as liberators are those such as strawberries, citrus fruits and nuts. Histamine levels only continue to rise the longer the food sits within the gut and ferments. You’ll find many nutritionists are recommending fermented foods for digestive health and itchy dogs. This can make the problem 10 times worse until the issue at hand is resolved. Even certain drugs such as antihistamines can cripple DAO function and make symptoms worse. So you see, even if you remove foods that you know your dog to be intolerant or allergic to, if they eat foods containing or releasing high amounts of histamine or don’t naturally produce enough enzymes to break them down, symptoms won’t be relieved. In our practice we go on a naturally low occurring histamine diet, considering the reactivity of the immune system, improve DAO and methylation function by adding in certain nutritional ingredients such as magnesium, vitamin C, B6, methyl folate etc, all whilst considering every system within the body. To find out more or to book a consultation with MPN, please check us out. We hope this helps folks! MPN Team x
