Here at My Pet Nutritionist, we know how important your pet’s diet is, and how their diet can have a huge effect on their health and longevity. As part of their balanced diet, there are many vital macronutrients and micronutrients required in the correct quantities to ensure optimum health. One of the essential micronutrients required in the diet of both dogs and cats, is Choline; but why is it so important? Read on to find out! What is choline? Choline is an essential micronutrient; however it is neither a mineral nor a vitamin! It is a water soluble organic compound. Essential nutrients are nutrients the target species MUST consume within their diet. These nutrients are needed by the body, but the body cannot produce enough; meaning the diet needs to include them. As nutritional science has evolved over the years, move and more essential nutrients have been discovered. Choline is one of the newest discoveries in the nutrition world, being recognised as an essential micronutrient only since 1998 by the Institute of Medicine! When reading literature, you may find Choline is grouped with B Vitamins due to its similar functions within the body. Another important nutrient is Betaine, which is a metabolite of Choline. When Choline is metabolised, Betaine is formed, which has many health benefits such as protecting cells from osmotic stress (keeping cells perfectly hydrated, and stopping them from shrinking or swelling), and acting as a methyl donor, which plays a vital role in liver health, and is heavily involved in other major internal systems. Findings Here Findings Here Why is Choline Important? Choline, as an essential nutrient, is extremely important. It plays a huge role in many systems within the body from cells to metabolism, to DNA, to the nervous system. Let’s take a closer look at the roles it plays in the body: Cell Membranes: Choline is largely responsible for supporting the integrity of cell membranes, due to its ability to create the necessary fats to keep cell structure strong. Cell messengers: there are a number of compounds that act as cell messengers – passing signals between cells to allow them to ‘communicate’. Choline helps to produce these compounds. DNA Synthesis: like Vitamins B9 (Folate) and B12 (Cobalamin), Choline is involved in the synthesis of DNA. DNA is the body’s genetic code, so it is incredibly important to keep it healthy. Metabolism and transport of fat and cholesterol: this mainly improves the health of the liver. Choline helps to remove cholesterol from an individual’s liver by producing the responsible substance. If your pet is deficient in Choline, fat and cholesterol can build up in the liver, which would dampen it’s functionality. Benefits the nervous system: when Choline combines with an acetyl group, a reaction occurs using an enzyme called choline acetyltransferase as the catalyst. The result of this reaction is the production of Acetylcholine – an important neurotransmitter. Acetylcholine plays a major role in many aspects of health including muscle movement, memory/cognitive alertness and heartbeat regulation. Essential for healthy pancreas: studies show that a deficiency in Choline can be linked to pancreatitis. These studies suggest that supplementation with Choline can protect pancreatic cells, and reduce the risk of pancreatitis flares. One of the main pancreatic issues in those lacking a sufficient amount of Choline, is disruption to the exocrine system. Methylation: probably one of the most important roles of Choline in the body is Methylation. Methylation is incredibly important as it is the process which creates the Myelin sheath; the protective layer coating nerves in the body. These nerves affect brain health, and general nervous system health throughout the body. Benefits during pregnancy: during pregnancy and foetal development, choline is extremely important as it aids cognitive development in the maturing foetus – this sets young puppies and kittens up for better cognitive function when born and ageing. Findings Here Findings Here Findings Here Findings Here How Much Choline Does My Pet Need? Cats and dogs require different amounts of choline – in fact every species has different requirements for almost every nutrient, so it’s important that we tailor our pet’s nutrition to suit their species. With that in mind, how much choline is required for cats, and how much for dogs? Studies suggest that adult cats require a minimum of 800mg of Choline per kilogram of FRESH food per day, and that there is no upper tolerable limit in cats. in terms of dry food matter, this is around 3500mg/kg. Kittens may require a little more than this recommendation. Dogs require a different amount of Choline in their diet to cats. Adult dogs require at least 474mg per kilogram of FRESH food in their diet per day. in terms of dry matter, this value is around 2500mg/kg. Our nutritionists recommend around 800mg per kg of fresh food! Puppies may require a little extra. Sources of Choline When it comes to looking at pet foods on the market, most will contain Choline – however the form the choline is given in, may affect it’s efficacy. Ultra processed foods, such as dry extruded foods, may not be the best source of Choline for your pet; during the manufacture of these foods, the whole food ingredients are subject to high temperatures and multiple processing techniques which can damage nutrient quality and bioavailability. These foods are often sprayed with synthetic vitamins at he end of manufacture in order to reach minimum guidelines. At My Pet Nutritionist, we advocate for a fresh diet, where nutrients are sought mainly through the fresh ingredients included in the recipe. Some fresh food ingredients, rich in Choline, include: Liver – 209mg per 50g Eggs (especially egg yolk!) – 147mg per egg Kidney – 105mg per 50g Cod – 74mg per 50g Beef – 70mg per 50g Pork – 43mg per 50g Poultry – 36mg per 50g Brussels Sprouts – 31mg per 50g Shiitake Mushrooms – 29.7mg per 50g Cauliflower – 22mg per 50g Broccoli – 16mg per 50g Salmon – 11mg per 50g Nuts
Here at My Pet Nutritionist, we use a combination of healthy diets tailored to your pet’s needs, alongside beneficial gut-friendly herbs, and nutraceuticals. These supplementary additions often come with hosts of benefits, when used in the correct way, for a specific purpose. We often get asked about the various herbs and nutraceuticals we recommend in various blog posts and in our recipes and supplements – you can learn more about some of these here! What Are Gut Healing Herbs? Herbs high in mucilage are often known as the ‘gut healing herbs’. These herbs are usually considered to be a source of prebiotics – food for probiotics; however these herbs have another very important function when it comes to gut health! Mucilage is a soluble dietary fibre, which produces a mucus-like substance which lines the gut wall. When the gut wall is lined with this slimy textured substance, it forms a protective barrier to reduce the risk of further gut damage, and allow the gut to heal. Inflammation is then reduced due to lack of irritation. Mucilage has a fantastic soothing effect on the digestive tract too – those with acid reflux, or having recovered from illnesses like kennel cough which may cause throat irritation may find a powdered form best, due to the soothing effect of the mucilage in these herbs. As an additional benefit of these popular gut healing herbs, the mucilage can increase digestive performance resulting in better stools; this is due to the mucilage adding bulk to the stool (reducing constipation), aiding water absorption, and increasing gut motility. Some studies also suggest that mucilage rich herbs may reduce the build up of cholesterol, and aid the regulation of blood sugar levels. Frequently used mucilage herbs include slippery elm, marshmallow root, and deglycyrrhizinated liquorice root – we will look closer at these later. Findings Here Findings Here What Are Nutraceuticals? Nutraceuticals are components of foods that bring benefit to health. You may often come across plant based supplements for pets; these are packed full of nutraceuticals! Functional foods are also classed as nutraceuticals. Many nutraceuticals enhance basic nutrition, whereas some provide medicinal properties. Some benefits of using carefully selected nutraceuticals include improved overall health, prevention of chronic disease, increased longevity and all round structural support for the body. The term ‘nutraceutical’ is a combination of the words ‘nutrition’ and ‘pharmaceutical’ – meaning they share the same properties as pharmaceuticals, but are acquired through nutrition Functional herbs, antioxidants, probiotics, vitamins and minerals are all examples of the categories most commonly encountered in the world of pet nutrition. We will delve into these categories in terms of nutraceuticals later. Findings Here Findings Here When Should We Use Gut Healing Herbs and Nutraceuticals? A question we often hear at My Pet Nutritionist, is “should we be giving any supplements?” – and our answer is always “if your pet could benefit from a carefully selected supplement, then absolutely!”. It is important not to needlessly add lots of different nutraceuticals and gut healing herbs to your dog’s diet, unless they require/could benefit from it. When it comes to giving mucilage herbs, these can be incredibly beneficial in situations where gut damage is apparent. Situations a mucilage herb may be beneficial include: Allergies: due to an immune malfunction Intolerances: due to gut damage or leaky gut syndrome Following vaccines, worm or flesa treatment: these products are very damaging on the gut, so gut healing may be necessary. Acid reflux: soothes the digestive tract and reduces the risk of acid reflux Upset stomach or constipation: these herbs help to rectify loose or solid stools when needed. Great to have in the first aid cupboard! When looking at nutraceuticals, we need to look at the symptoms your dog or cat is displaying, alongside gaining a diagnosis from your veterinarian. Some types of illnesses you may use nutraceuticals for include: Joint issues Skin issues Digestive issues Cognitive health issues (anxiety etc) Vision issues As brilliant as nutraceuticals can be as part of your pet’s health regime, many do come with some contraindications with pharmaceuticals your pet may need. Contraindications are negative interactions with drugs – these interactions can often cause downregulation of the drugs themselves, leaving your pet vulnerable to disease progression. An example of this is curcumin – the active compound in turmeric. It is fantastic for joint support/arthritis, cardiovascular function, reducing inflammation, eradicating free radicals, immune support, cognitive ability and cancer prevention. The reduction in pain in those who take curcumin is vast; however some individuals may require pain pharmaceutical pain relief for their condition. Curcumin is known to downregulate the effects of some pharmaceutical analgesics, as well as various other drugs. It is always best to check with your veterinarian before starting a new nutraceutical, if your pet is on pharmaceutical drugs. Findings Here Findings Here Popular Gut Healing Herbs The three most popular gut healing herbs can all be found inside our Gut Guardian supplement, along with probiotics and chamomile. Lets take a closer look at these mucilage herbs! Marshmallow Root: this is a sweet smelling and tasting herb derived from the Althaea officinalis plant. When combined with water, it immediately forms a thick, slimy substance due to it’s high mucilage content. Traditionally, marshmallow root is used in cases of digestive or respiratory issues, and also topically to soothe skin issues. As well as being high in mucilage, it also contains high amounts of antioxidants, anti-inflammatory properties, and antibacterial properties. slippery elm: like marshmallow root, slippery elm produces a slimy substance when combined with water. It originates from the inner bark of the slippery elm tree (Ulmus rubra), and is often used to treat digestive issues, and sore throats by lining the oesophagus. DGL (deglycyrrhizinated liquorice): this herb increases mucous production in the body, which helps line the stomach, reducing the risk of harm caused by acid. DGL is thought to have properties to treat ulcers too! Findings Here Findings Here Findings Here Popular Nutraceuticals There are many nutraceuticals used in the
In part two of our focus on the diet of a senior dog, we will look further into some specific nutritional categories bringing fantastic health benefits to your senior dog. We will also go through our recommendations on what to feed your senior pet, including specific nutrients and supplements you may wish to consider! Read Part 1 here! Specific Beneficial Nutrients There are a number of macro- and micronutrient categories senior dogs would benefit greatly from to slow the ageing process down, and reduce age-related inflammation. The two main categories to analyse here are Antioxidants, and Omega Fatty Acids. Antioxidants: these are one of the most important categories of nutrients to feed your senior dog (and are highly beneficial at any age!) due to their action against oxidative stress. As dogs age, oxidative stress becomes more proliferative; it’s a natural part of ageing! Oxidative stress is caused by ‘free radicals’ – unstable oxygen molecules missing an electron. Free radicals damage all parts of the body from organs to joints, causing joint degeneration, cancer, altering DNA, neurodegenerative diseases, adverse alteration of fats and proteins, and other diseases like diabetes, so it is incredibly important to combat these cells as best you can. Antioxidants tackle and remove free radicals from the body, leading to less oxidative stress, and therefore slower ageing. Some excellent sources to think about including in your senior dog’s diet include blueberries, strawberries, artichoke, goji berries, red cabbage, kale, ginger, spinach, parsley, pecans (in small amounts due to fat content), fresh garlic (avoid in Japanese breeds) and rosemary (avoid in epileptic dogs). Omegas Fatty Acids: this group of fats are another incredibly important category of nutrients to include in your senior dog’s diet, specifically Omega 3. The two ‘main’ omega fatty acids are Omega 3 and 6 – both are essential. Omega 9 is present in the diet too, but doesn’t add as many benefits to the dog’s health as Omegas 3 and 6. Omega 6 fatty acids called Linolenic Acid (LA) and Arachidonic Acid (ARA) are inherently inflammatory. The only non-inflammatory Omega 6 is Gamma-linolenic Acid (GLA). Omega 6 brings many benefits to the health of the dog despite it’s inflammatory properties, including control of hormones, however as it is naturally in abundance in our carnivorous pets’ meat based diet, we need to balance the inflammation out! This is where Omega 3 comes in! Omega 3 includes Eicosapentaenoic Acid (EPA), Alpha-linolenic Acid (ALA) and Docosahexaenoic Acid (DHA), and is inherently anti-inflammatory. The anti-inflammatory properties of Omega 3 Fatty Acids balance out the inflammation caused by Omega 6 Fatty Acids. EPA is the main inflammation reducer, while ALA aids immune and heart health, and DHA aids cognitive health and development. Some excellent sources of Omega 3 to include in your dog’s diet include fatty fish and fish oils, algal oil, flax and chia seed, oysters and eggs. You can read more about choosing an omega supplement for your pet here! Findings Here Findings Here Findings Here What Type of Food Should I Feed? The dog food market really is a minefield! There are many options of different food types, each claiming to be the best! Our ethos here at My Pet Nutritionist is to feed as fresh food as possible! Minimal processing is a major factor in healthy ageing and longevity. In this article, we are going to take a closer look at dry food, fresh cooked food, and raw food. Dry food is not a diet we would generally recommend, especially not for a senior dog! But why? High carb: carbohydrates can have an inflammatory effect on our pets. Dry foods are typically between 30 and 60% carbohydrate – sometimes even higher! Manufacturing process: these foods undergo a huge amount of processing. During the cycle of production from raw ingredient to bag, these foods are subject to up to 4 separate high-heat processes, each time reducing nutritional quality. Synthetic vitamins and minerals: our senior dogs may not be able to utilise the synthetic vitamins and minerals often sprayed onto the dry food at the end of the manufacturing process, deeming them useless. Glyphosate: due to the extreme manufacturing process, glyphosate production occurs. This is the main ingredient effective against killing weeds, but it is linked with cancer and damage of the gut microbiome. Mycotoxins and Aflatoxins: mycotoxins are chemical compounds caused by mould and can lead to vomiting and seizures. Aflatoxins are also caused by mould in food and can lead to cancer and liver damage. Storage mites: before bagging, dry foods are often stored in large hoppers – and even after bagging, the shelf life is very long, encouraging storage mites which can trigger allergies. Advanced Glycation End Products: shortened to AGEs, these harmful chemical compounds are produced during manufacturing, and a linked to cancers, inflammation, oxidative stress and premature ageing. Why do we advocate for a fresh cooked, or raw diet? Which is best for senior dogs? Fresh food is minimally processed, meaning the harmful compounds listed above do not form, reducing the risk of inflammation, oxidative stress and other disease in the body. As the ingredients are still in their whole, natural form they are nutrient dense, and provide the body with excellent nutrition! Another major benefit to fresh food, is that it is high in moisture – moisture in the diet is essential for kidney and gut health, both of which are known to worsen during the ageing process! As the gut motility of senior dogs can reduce, and other changes in the gut naturally occur, many seniors cope best with fresh cooked food as opposed to raw food – though some do still tolerate raw food! We have an extensive array of well formulated and balanced meal recipes for dogs on our website! Our Recommendations There are various aspects of diet we actively encourage owners of senior dogs to include in their dog’s feeding regime. Some may benefit from a more tailored 1-2-1 approach with one of our consultants, however our general
Here at My Pet Nutritionist, we help pet owners help their beloved dogs and cats with all aspects of health and nutrition. Those we consult for include all ages, from puppyhood right through to old age. Our golden oldies deserve just as much love and care as their younger counterparts! As a dog ages, their dietary needs may change – but how? In this bumper 2-part blog, we take a look at the dietary changes your senior dog may need to stay happy, healthy and pain free! Is My Dog a Senior? This is a question we here ever so frequently! Is your dog a senior? Is there a specific age your dog becomes a ‘senior’? what are the signs your dog is becoming a senior? Many processed dog food manufacturers will class a senior dog as ‘7 years plus’ – however we know there are so many contributing factors to a dog becoming a ‘senior’, and this isn’t always at 7 years of age! Factors affecting a dog’s ageing include: Breed: generally speaking, larger breeds will hit their senior years far earlier than smaller breeds. Breeds with predispositions to health conditions may also reach senior years earlier than those without. Genetics: a dog’s family genetics/history can affect the age they reach senior years. Medical history: if your pet has had any health complications growing up, any medical reactions, infections etc, these may cause senior years to come sooner. A dog’s neutering status, or the time they were neutered may also contribute to ageing. Dietary History: a dog fed a gut-friendly diet, full of natural nutrients, with minimal processing for life is more likely to reach senior years later than those fed an ultra-processed diet full of synthetic micronutrients. Ultra-processed dry foods also tend to have a high content of pro-ageing substances called Advanced Glycation End-Products (AGEs) which cause faster ageing. Exposure to toxins: toxin exposure can cause disruption in the endocrine (hormone) system, and cause gut stress which usually comes hand in hand with life shortening conditions, causing senior years to approach quickly. These toxins can be anything from flea and worm medications to environmental toxins both in the home and out and about. Behavioural History: even your dog’s behaviour can have an effect on longevity! This may seem like an odd link, but behavioural stress can have an effect on physical stress, and vice versa. The pathway between the brain and gut, known as the gut-brain axis is at play here! Physical stress on the body, caused by behavioural stress, will speed up the process of ageing. Signs that your dog is entering their senior years include: Weight loss Reduced hearing Reduce eyesight Increased fatigue Less willingness to exercise Reduced cognitive ability Stiffness Reduced appetite Increased water consumption Development of lumps and bumps Lack of balance and stability. Of course, as your dog enters the early staged of senior-hood, these symptoms may be mild, and your dog may only display a few. As your dog progresses through their senior years, more symptoms may appear, or existing symptoms may worsen. Nutritional Needs of a Senior Dog As your dog ages, various changes occur throughout their body which require some nutritional tweaks to ensure optimum health continues. These changes include various internal systems in the body such as: Gut health: the gut of an ageing dog can be subject to various changes affecting gut motility, nutrient absorption and processing. Digestive capabilities often occur due to gut degeneration. Brain health: ageing canines are often subject to cognitive decline. Joint health: one of the major pathways from the gut is the gut-joint axis. When the senior dog’s gut is compromised, joint conditions can become more prominent. Senior dogs generally require more joint support than younger dogs. Dental Health: dental conditions like gingivitis, tooth decay, periodontal disease, tooth fractures and tooth resorption are often seen in older dogs. Kidney Health: kidney disease is one of the more common age-related diseases we often hear about here at My Pet Nutritionist, as older dogs are more susceptible to Chronic Kidney Disease; a progressive disease. Heart Health: as the heart is a muscle, over time it can begin to fatigue. Statistically, around 75% of senior dogs suffer some sort of heart disease! Findings Here Findings Here Findings Here Findings Here When it comes to nutritional composition, we need to look closely at the macronutrients and micronutrients in your dog’s diet; both quantities of, and types/sources of. Macronutrients are the main nutrients our bodies require in larger amounts; let’s take a look these requirements for a senior dog: Protein: The building blocks of protein are called Amino Acids. Amino Acids are essential for pretty much everything in the body to form and function normally, including muscles, tendons, ligaments, cartilage, hair, nails and skin. Protein is also used in the endocrine system, to enable the healthy production of hormones throughout the body. As the dog ages, protein deficiencies become more common, which can lead to absorption issues and muscle degradation which ultimately affects mobility. A meat based, moderate-high protein diet is advisable for senior dogs. Fat: as dogs become less active due to the natural ageing process, a low fat diet may be advisable. Feeding a high fat diet when activity levels are waning may cause weight gain which puts pressure on joints and other parts of the body. The type of fat included in the diet also makes a difference! Saturated fats are the type we ideally do not want much of, however Omega 3 Fatty Acids are known for their anti-inflammatory properties, and are an important part of s senior dog’s diet! More on this later. Carbohydrate: ‘complex’ carbs which are high in fibre may be a great addition to your pet’s diet, to improve digestion, regulate metabolism and help maintain the immune and nervous systems. Higher fibre carbohydrate options include kale, broccoli and leafy green vegetables. Other ‘complex’ carbs that are ok to be fed in small amounts include sweet potato, pumpkin, banana, berries
Here at My Pet Nutritionist, we consult with dogs and cats with a huge variety of health concerns, from digestive problems to dental problems, and everything in between! One of the dental concerns we see, affects both cats and dogs – tooth resorption. It is estimated that around 60% of cats (pure-bred cats seem to suffer the most), and 40% of dogs will be affected by Tooth Resorption by the time they turn 6 years old! There are various layers to the tooth, starting from the outer surface to the very inside of the tooth, the layers are: Enamel: a thin, white, hard layer which protects the sensitive insides of the tooth Dentin: a tick, softer layer of tissues beneath the enamel, containing microscopic tubules which lead to the nerves in the tooth. Pulp chamber: the powerhouse of the tooth. The pulp creates dentin, and also provides the dentin with nutrients to keep it healthy. This chamber is commonly known as the ‘root canal’ as it extends to the root of the tooth. Cementum: a hard surface anchoring the tooth to the gum. The gum also has multiple layers. Starting from the outer surface visible to the eye to the inside of the gum, the layers are: Gingival Margin: this part keeps the teeth securely in place. Gingival Sulcus: attaches the gum to the tooth. Cemento Enamel Junction: the area where the tooth meets the gum. Periodontal Ligament: attaches the tooth to the jaw. Pets with Tooth Resorption suffer from erosion of their dentin, which ultimately becomes destroyed. This process cannot be reversed! Gradually, more and more of the tooth is affected, becoming destroyed, and appearing to absorb into the gum. Findings Here Findings Here There are many types of Tooth Resorption in both cats, and dogs. Types in cats Type 1: Normal density is maintained, and Periodontal Ligament is unchanged. Resorption is in the Cemento Enamel Junction. Destruction occurs toward the root, or in a side to side direction. Type 2: Narrowing at the Periodontal Ligament area, and the tooth root becomes as dense as the surrounding bone. Type 3: a combination of Types 1 and 2 – teeth also become multicoloured. Types in Dogs External Replacement Resorption: most common form in dogs. The ligament space and root of the tooth change dramatically. External Inflammatory Resorption: the tooth roots are very inflamed. External Cervical Root Surface Resorption: lesions are present around the Cemento enamel junction. External Surface Resorption: the very edges of the tooth root may show on x-rays to be slightly uneven. No other clinical symptoms show. Internal Inflammatory Resorption: oval shaped swellings grow in the root of the tooth. Often caused by dental disease. Internal Surface Resorption: oval shaped swellings form further up the tooth root. May be caused by trauma, but are extremely rare. Internal Replacement Resorption: incredibly rare in pets. Progressive condition. Tunnel-like areas form as a result of tooth root fractures. Findings Here Findings Here Symptoms and Causes Outward symptoms are rarely noticeable in most cases of tooth resorption, making diagnosis often difficult. As pet owners, we need to be really vigilant when it comes to oral health. Regular teeth cleaning is important; and as part of your regular husbandry regime, practicing touching your dog or cat’s tooth may be more important than you may think! One of the few signs that your pet may be suffering with tooth resorption, is pain when the tooth is touched. Other signs include: Increase in drooling Head shaking Reduction of appetite (due to pain when eating) Gingivitis/bleeding from the mouth Face rubbing Gagging Frequent sneezing In progressed cases, tooth fractures are possible – this is largely down to potential damage to the crown of the tooth due to loss of structural tissues. As a result of tooth resorption, your pet may suffer with oral infections – this is due to lesions forming on the tooth crown making the inner tooth accessible by bad bacteria. Very little is known about causes of tooth resorption. While many studies have been carried out, no specific cause has been pinpointed. During these studies, it was found that cells known as ‘odontoclasts’ are responsible for breaking down the hard tooth tissues. Findings Here Findings Here Diagnosis The process of diagnosis is usually simple when a dog shows signs of tooth resorption. Firstly , your veterinarian will discuss your dog’s symptoms, and run a physical examination of your dog’s mouth/teeth. Some veterinarians will run an additional examination under general anaesthetic to be able to get a more thorough look/feel of your dog’s teeth and gums. Next, they will take X-rays of your dog’s teeth. The X-rays will enable them to tell if your dog does have tooth resorption, and how severe the individual’s case is. Conventional Treatment Once your cat or dog has received their diagnoses of Tooth Resorption, treatment must be prompt due to this condition being particularly painful. The treatment offered by your veterinarian will depend on the type of resorption your pet has, and also the severity. Some pets may be referred to a veterinary dentist for treatment. In the event that the condition has progressed rapidly, or too far for the tooth to remain stable, the affected unstable tooth/teeth will be removed. This is a surgical procedure carried out under anaesthetic. In some cases, only part of a tooth is removed, if the veterinary dentist, or veterinary surgeon feels this is in the pet’s best interest. If your pet’s condition is not so advanced, and their teeth are still stable in the gum, treatment mostly involves frequent oral health check ups to check if any intervention is needed yet. Another treatment offered in select cases whereby the tooth is saveable, is root canal treatment. Again, this is a procedure carried out under anaesthetic. During root canal treatment, pulp is removed from the root canal, which is then cleaned, and filled with dental material. The aim of this treatment is to slow the progression of tooth resorption. As this
We love our feline friends here at My Pet Nutritionist, and one of the most commonly asked questions we get from concerned cat owners, is ‘does my indoor cat need different nutrition to cats who free-roam outside?’. Many cat owners keep their cats indoors for many reasons, from expensive pedigree breeds, to moggies. Some cats may live indoors for their own safety away from main roads, some may live indoors to help control medical needs, and some may live indoors, simply down to their breed. So, are there any different needs for these cats, versus the ones you may encounter when out and about? We will discuss this in this blog post, and help to put your mind at ease! Nutritional Needs Cats Are Carnivores Our kitty companions are what we call ‘obligate carnivores’. There are two types of carnivore (meat eaters); facultative, and obligate. Facultative carnivores (the likes of dogs and other canids) eat primarily meat, but may benefit from a little plant matter. Obligate carnivores are meat eaters that eat, and thrive on a purely meat diet with no plant matter at all. Our cats do not need vegetables or fruits to thrive. This is very much the same for indoor and outdoor cats – those with outdoor cats may often find their cats will even catch their own prey; some may even eat it, but many will bring their owner a ‘gift’ – how kind of them! Calorie Content While indoor and outdoor cats require the same nutrients, many indoor cat owners may notice their pets need a smaller portion of food vs their outdoor counterparts. Outdoor cats often tend to be more active than those with a purely indoor lifestyle, which of course burns more calories, meaning outdoor cats, particularly those who are more active and enjoy hunting or walking longer distances, may need larger meals than those who live a more sedentary lifestyle in the home. Protein Both indoor and outdoor cats need a high protein diet. Protein is incredibly important in the diet of cats, as it is one of the main energy sources used to maintain blood glucose levels due to metabolic adaptations carried by the cat. Protein is not only used to maintain blood glucose levels, but for general energy too; even in those who are fed a diet lacking in protein, resulting in rapid weight loss. This is seen very frequently in older cats fed a commercial dry food diet, as these are very high in carbs, and lack quality meat proteins. Amino acids are the building blocks of proteins, and there are 11 amino acids that are absolutely essential for cats; but there is one of particular importance, and that is Taurine. Taurine is used throughout the feline body to maintain healthy vision, aid cardiac muscle strength and contractions, maintain a healthy reproductive system, and keep the immune system in tip top condition. The protein content of your cat’s diet should remain the same regardless of being an indoor, or an outdoor cat, the source of the protein may need to be tweaked though, depending on activity levels, due to different amounts of fat per protein, which brings us nicely onto fats in the diet of indoor vs outdoor cats. Fat Now, fat is one of the most important nutrients in your cat’s diet! Fat is the main energy source for general activity in cats. When seeking out a meat suitable for your cat, it is important to consider your pet’s lifestyle, age and activity levels. A more sedentary indoor cat, will need a protein lower in fat than an active outdoor cat, as feeding a cat that is not very active, a meat with a high fat content will result in the energy creates not being used, and your pet could end up overweight. Chicken, turkey or white fish may be a better option than beef, as an example, for those with a less active lifestyle. Regardless of your cat being and inside, or outside cat, omega 3 fatty acids are a very important part of your cat’s diet! With cats eating meat, and lots of it, their natural intake of pro-inflammatory omega 6 fatty acids will be high. We need to balanced this out with added anti-inflammatory omega 3 fatty acids, in order to reduce inflammation in the body. You can read more about choosing an ideal omega 3 for your cat here! Furball Control Due to being indoors, and away from environmental temperature changes that naturally occur throughout the year, indoor cats tend to shed noticeably more than outdoor cats, and all year around, too! This bring the higher chance of furballs – with the telltale retching noise our furry friends do when they have consumed too much fur through regular grooming! In order to help these furballs pass easily through the gut, indoor cats often require a diet higher in fibre than those who roam freely outside. Supplements high in insoluble fibre can be included in the diet of indoor cats, or outdoor cats prone to furballs, in order to help them pass through the digestive tract with ease, and reduce the risk of intestinal blockage. Although indoor cats are obligate carnivores, insoluble fibre can be sought through feeding a very small amount of plant matter, or a cellulose (the fibrous substance making the cell wall of plant cells) supplement. Stress In Indoor Cats It is thought that indoor cats may also be subject to stress, particularly when their owner leaves them. Indoor cats can be very loyal, and very much attached to their owner, leaving them with the chance of separation anxiety. While this concept isn’t set in stone, and more research is needed to confirm it, it certainly is a possibility. Outdoor cats may also come into stressful situations when they meet other cats, or environmental challenges. There are nutrients we can include in our cat’s diet to help reduce stress, such as: Vitamin B6 which helps the body create red blood cells
The brain; that all important organ each and every one of us, and our pets, has! It controls everything in the body, whether it’s thoughts, memory, touch sensitivity, emotions, coordination, temperature regulation, endocrine (hormone) regulation, or any other process in the body. The brain is so important, and keeping it healthy should be every pet owner’s mission! But how do we do that? Find out in this blog post, how to keep the brain healthy! Changes Through Life Stages From teeny puppy, to elderly senior dog, your dog’s brain goes through many changes! As a newborn, your puppy will immediately know what to do when it comes to feeding – this is because the behaviour is instinctive – meaning they’re born automatically knowing how to feed, breathe, move, vocalise etc. Their eyes and ears are completely shut for the first two to three weeks, so instinct goes a long way! A puppy’s brain is not fully developed until the age of 2 years! As your puppy reaches 4 to 5 weeks, the next 8 or so weeks are absolutely crucial in socialisation and cognitive development. Many reputable breeders use a socialisation scheme called Puppy Culture, which is a socialisation structure to ensure your puppy gets the best socialisation and is comfortable in all new experiences they may come across in life! This cognitive stage is one of the most important times to focus on brain health. As your puppy reaches 6-12 months, hormones start to come into play. The brain is a huge producer of many hormones, so brain health during this stage, called ‘adolescence’, is extremely important. During this stage, you may find your puppy’s behaviour relapses a little, and you may find they become anxious in some situations. It is important to feed and supplement to aid brain health during these stages, and also take your training regime back to puppy basics. Keep reading to find out about diet and supplements for brain health! During adulthood, your dog’s brain health can massively dictate it’s typical mental state, how full his or her ‘anxiety bucket’ is, and how low the baseline of that bucket is – ie, their threshold of tolerance in some situations. The ‘anxiety bucket’ is a great way to look at a dog’s brain when it comes to tolerance – those with poorer brain health will have a higher baseline – think of a bucket. An empty bucket is a good sign – it means the dog is level headed, calm and happy. The bucket of a dog with poor brain health, will have material in the bottom of it, making less space for emotions to fit in it. Every trigger, or negative stimuli the dog experiences, adds into the bucket – when the bucket is full, the dog reacts. This is called Trigger Stacking. Those with poor brain health will fill their bucket quicker than those with good brain health (and more room in the bucket to start with!). As your dog reaches his or her senior years, and progresses through them, the brain health can begin to decline, just as it can in humans. As the dog ages, the body often starts to produce proteins known as Beta-Amyloids, which leave deposits on the brain. These deposits left on the brain cause nerve destruction, and leaves plaque in the brain, which hinders cognitive health. Plaque being present in the brain reduces the production of the all important neurotransmitters, which are the ‘messengers’ involved in almost every bodily process. As you can see, brain health should be a focus of all pet owners, throughout their pet’s life. What Causes Poor Brain Health? There are a number of reasons a dog may have poor brain health, so let’s take a look at them! Genetics can have a huge affect on brain health. If brain health is poor due to medical reasons along the breeding line. A genetically poor brain, will pass down through generations. Stress levels during welp can have an enormous impact on brain health in puppies. If a mother dog in welp is stressed, sadly this can have an affect on the puppies’ brain health. If we think back to our bucket analogy, puppies from stressed mothers will naturally have a lower threshold for tolerance, or a higher baseline in their bucket! Socialisation in the first 12 weeks of age can impact a puppy’s mental capabilities. If properly done, the puppy will be set up for a higher chance of success as it ages, if not done correctly, a lack of socialisation (new smells, sights, sounds, objects, ages of people, races in humans, transport methods, textures, and finally other dogs) can lead to poor brain health from an early age. Free Radicals are oxygen atoms in the body, containing an unpaired electron in their orbit, making the molecule unstable and reactive. These unstable oxygen atoms lead to oxidative stress, which opens the body, and especially brain, up to some serious health conditions, including cancer, a rapid cognitive decline and other issues. These are most commonly found in dogs fed diets lacking antioxidants, and also in ageing dogs. Inflammation in the body, especially common in those lacking omega 3 in the diet, causes inflammation on the brain, which can lead to brain disease, affecting hormone release, and production of neurotransmitters. Poor gut health is another common reason a dog may have poor brain health. This may seem quite disconnected, given the gut and the brain are at complete opposite ends of the body, but the two are connected by a pathway known as the gut-brain axis. The gut is much like a roundabout, and connects to many different parts of the body, which are the roundabout ‘exits’ – one of these exits heads to the brain, and the brain back to the gut. Poor gut health affects the brain, and poor brain health affects the gut. Neurotoxins in or around the pet are sadly something we see all too often in our initial consultations. Neurotoxins
There are so many reasons why your dog may have diarrhoea. At My Pet Nutritionist, we help lots of owners with dogs with frequent diarrhoea, and some common causes seem to come up more than others during client consultations. In this blog post, you will find information about the most common causes of diarrhoea in dogs. Diarrhoea is generally a symptom of a physiological stressor; a huge amount of conditions come under this. This blog post only touches the most common reasons we see in practice, however the cause of diarrhoea is certainly nowhere near limited to these issues – seeking veterinary attention if your dog has recurring diarrhoea is essential, in order to rule out any longer term, or more serious health problems. Parasitic Burdens Parasitic burdens, whether they’re intestinal worms, or protozoan parasites like giardia, often cause diarrhoea; in fact, diarrhoea is one of the most common symptoms of parasitic burdens. How do we know if our pets have parasitic burdens? So many pet parents are shocked when they’re informed their pet has parasites, purely on the basis that they cannot see them in the pet’s poop. Intestinal worms are only visible in the faeces if the burden is high. Diarrhoea can start to develop as soon as there are parasite eggs in the digestive tract – these are microscopic, so cannot be seen with the naked eye! Now, your veterinarian can run a faecal egg test, but you can also do these at home! There are various companies from whom you can order a sampling kit from. You simply follow the instructions, pop a poop sample in the provided pot, and pop it in the post back to the company you ordered from. Their laboratories will then look at your dog’s sample under the microscope, record the results, and return them via email. Some companies include protozoan parasites as standard, but others require a separate test for these. Lungworm counts are separate sampling kits, and require a pooled sample over the course of 3 days. It’s advisable to test for intestinal worms every 3 months, and lungworm every 6 to 8 weeks. Depending on the result of your wormcount, you may be able to treat it using GSE – we recommend the BioCare Grapefruit Extract. Heavier burdens may require veterinary intervention. You can read more about internal parasites in our comprehensive blog post here. Findings Here Findings Here Food Sensitivities Food sensitivities are an extremely common topic here at My Pet Nutritionist. We help a huge amount of owners overcome their pets’ dietary troubles when it comes to allergies and intolerances. Food allergies are caused by a malfunction of the immune system, whereas food intolerances are usually down to poor gut health, especially in cases of Leaky Gut where the gut wall integrity is poor. The gut microbiome is very fragile, and is ever so important for all round general health as 70-80% of the immune system resides in the gut. The microbiome as a whole, includes everything from good and bad bacteria, to parasites viruses etc, but a health gut microbiome is in perfect balance, where the ‘good guys’ out weigh the ‘bad guys’. When a dog has poor gut health, and in turn has food sensitivities, the ‘bad guys’ start to overrule the ‘good guys’, which then leads to diarrhoea. In order to work on food sensitivities, and rule out problematic ingredients form your dog’s diet, it is advisable to run a full elimination diet, and carry out lots of gut work through the use of mucilage herbs and probiotics, which will help to heal the gut wall, and improve the amount of ‘good guys’ in the gut microbiome, ultimately reducing the risk of diarrhoea and possible bacterial infections. Our Gut Guardian supplement is a high quality blend of mucilage herbs, soil based probiotics, and calming chamomile. Gut Guardian You can read more on running an elimination diet here. Findings Here Findings Here IBD and Lymphoplasmacytic Gastritis Another common topic among our clients in their consultations with the team is IBD – Inflammatory Bowel Disease. An extreme case of IBD can be diagnosed as Lymphoplasmacytic Gastritis. Lymphoplasmacytic Gastritis is a chronic form of IBD, whereby inflammatory cells and cytokines (the substance which stimulates inflammation of cells) penetrate the stomach and intestinal lining. As you can imagine, when inflammatory cells enter the digestive system, it causes havoc! The inflammatory cells invade the stomach and intestinal lining due to having been subject to an abnormal immune response. There is a huge link to the lymphatic system in the gut too; which means a knock on effect to the rest of the body is very likely. Lymphoplasmacytic Gastritis happens most commonly in older dogs, but has been known in dogs as young as 8 months old. There are a number of causes of this condition, including the adorementioned parasitic burdens and food sensitivities, as well as Small Intestine Bacterial Overgrowth (SIBO) whereby the bad bacteria in the small intestine’s microbiome overtake the goof bacteria, leading to diarrhoea. As with food sensitivities, gut health is very important in tackling this disease, and got work supplements are highly recommended. Reducing environmental toxins is also paramount in your journey to a better belly! You can read more about Lymphoplasmacytic Gastritis here. Findings Here Findings Here Stress and Anxiety Stress and anxiety can massively affect the gut. The gut is much like a roundabout, with a large number of axes stemming from it to other parts of the body, linking gut health to nearly every other system within the body! When it comes to stress, anxiety, and even excitement (when adrenaline is high), the gut-brain axis is in focus. The gut-brain axis means that stress, anxiety and excitement can affect the gut microbiome, and a bad gut microbiome can also have an affect on brain health and mood. Calm Complex If your dog gets particularly excited or stressed for their walks, you may find they have a loose stool, despite being
The pet food market is such a crowded place, and can feel like quite the minefield! With so many types of foods, different marketing strategies, complex looking labels and ingredients lists, it’s no wonder so many people come to us here at My Pet Nutritionist worrying about what to feed their dogs or cats! Of course, we always recommend fresh food, but some owners may be unable to for various reasons; all types of pet food have to follow the legal guidelines for labelling, so we are here to help you decipher pet food labels! What Is The Difference Between Complementary, And Complete? When looking at the many pet foods available, from dry kibble, to cold pressed, to freeze dried, airdried, wet or raw options, you may notice some will say ‘complete’ and others will be ‘complementary’. You can learn about the types of foods available on the market here. A ‘complete’ food will contain all the basic nutrition needed for its target species to survive on, whether that is through the use of synthetic micronutrients, or fresh sources of these nutrients. In terms of raw and fresh feeding, this will usually mean there are fruits and vegetables added to the raw meat, bone and offal, and usually an omega source too. If a dry food states this, there is usually some form of ‘added’ vitamins and minerals, often synthetically. Omega 3 is often lacking, even in ‘complete’ dry foods, as they are inherently inflammatory. A ‘complementary’ food, usually in the form of a premade 80-10-10 raw food, a pure meat wet food, or a ‘mixer biscuit’, means more ingredients are required to be added to make the diet complete, and provide nutrition required for an animal to thrive. Those feeding an ultra-processed diet including a ‘complementary’ dry option, will often be instructed to feed an accompanying wet food by the manufacturer. Those feeding a ‘complementary’ wet or raw food, will be encouraged to feed a mixture of fruits and vegetables alongside the food, and add in an omega source. Some ‘complementary’ wet foods also require additional calcium to be added.xx We have a fantastic blog post, all about balancing an 80-10-10 raw food, which you can read here. The Order of Ingredients on Labels The ingredients on dog food labels are ordered just the same as those on human food labels – the highest amount of any single ingredient in the food is the first on the list, whereas the last ingredient is that which occurs the least in the food. Some manufacturers put percentages of each ingredient, but this isn’t law, so many don’t. When a percentage is in brackets, it is as part of the ingredient it’s next to – so when a label states ‘meat and animal derivatives (chicken 4%)’ it means there’s 4% chicken, and the rest of the meat and animal derivatives are of unknown origin. Legally, dog food manufacturers do not need to declare what preservatives are used. Those who state ‘preservatives’ and ‘antioxidants’ will often use low quality, synthetic, often carcinogenic chemicals. How Much Meat Is In My Pet’s Food? Pet food labelling can be very misleading, and very clever in terms of informing the consumer of the meat content. Obviously with out obligate carnivore cats, and our facultative carnivorous dogs, meat is the most important part of the diet, so owners will often look at the flavour of a dog or cat food, and assume the main ingredient is that meat! Sadly this isn’t the case, and with clever wording, manufacturers are able to pull the wool over most pet owners’ eyes! Here is what the very careful labelling really means! If a product says ‘chicken flavour’ there is 0% to 3% chicken. If a product says ‘with chicken’, it has 4% chicken. If a product says ‘chicken’, it has at least 26% chicken. Similarly, if a product says ‘chicken AND beef’, there will be at least 26% of each meat, whereas when a product says ‘chicken WITH beef’, there will be at least 26% chicken and 4% beef. The subtle differences, of literally just one word, can make all the difference to the food’s quality! Working Out The Carb Content When you look on pet food labels, you may notice the ‘composition’ or ‘analytical constituants’ is listed – this includes the percentage of the food that is protein, crude fibre, crude oils and fats, crude ash, and moisture. You may notice there is one macronutrient missing here – the one we want to limit or eliminate; carbohydrates! By not listing the carb content of a food, it makes it harder for consumers to see the percentage of carbs in the food – higher percentages will likely put the buyer off. Most dry foods are between 40 and 60% carbohydrates! So how do we work out how much of a food is carbohydrate? This involves a very simple maths problem. Simply subtract the listed percentages of protein, fats/oils, fibre, ash and moisture from 100. The answer will give you the percentage of carbohydrates in the food. What Does ‘Crude’ Mean? When it comes to pet food labelling, ‘crude’ simply means ‘total’. So the ‘crude protein’ in a food, is the total amount of protein in a food, regardless of it’s source. The ‘crude fat’ in a food, is the total amount of fat in a food, regardless of the source. Is There Really ‘Ash’ In My Pet’s Food? Yes, and no – by ‘ash’, it doesn’t mean the manufacturer has added in a load of fire waste. Ash in pet food is the minerals and vitamins in a food. Strange term to describe some vitamins and minerals isn’t it? But there is method to the madness! When a food is analysed to work out the analytical constituents/composition, it is burnt in a special furnace, which weighs the content as it burns. As the food burns, it’s mass and weight will reduce gradually. Once the weight reaches a constant, and doesn’t
If there’s one thing us dog owners and carers see and handle a lot, its poop! It comes in all different colours, shapes, sizes and textures, but do you know if your dog’s poop is ‘good’, or ‘bad’? At My Pet Nutritionist, we often hear from panicked pet parents regarding their pet’s faeces, and if it looks how it should! This handy guide looks at everything ‘dog poop’, including some troubleshooting tips along the way! Pooh Colours When it comes to colour, dog pooh can vary massively! Different colours can indicate different things, so let’s have a look at common dog pooh colours, and what they might mean! Brown is typically associated with poop. Brown can come in any shade, from very light brown, to very dark brown. Brown is a very ‘normal’ colour for faeces. If you feed fresh food, you may notice your dog’s pooh is darker on darker proteins such as lamb, duck or beef, and lighter, almost cream in colour, on lighter proteins like turkey, chicken or white fish. White pooh is commonly seen for two reasons. If it is an older pooh which has been laying around in the garden, it may be simply that it has dried out or been ‘sun bleached’ – especially if your dog is raw fed. If your dog is producing fresh white coloured pooh, and is raw fed, this can be a sign that your dog is not tolerating bone well. In these instances, you may need to switch to a cooked food using one of our recipes, or look at using a bone substitute. Mixed coloured pooh is a common occurrence in fresh fed dogs, and sends a lot of pet owners into panic-mode! Mixed coloured pooh when feeding a fresh food diet is completely normal! You may observe light and dark brown parts withing your dog’s faeces, which is due to your dog having eaten a variety of different proteins. If your dog has eaten a mixture of light and dark proteins in the last day or so, it’s likely their poop will be multi-coloured! Black pooh is something we don’t want to see, particularly if it is loose in texture too! Tarry stools are caused by the presence of Melena (blood) in the faeces, which can be secondary to a number of digestive issues, parasite burdens, liver or kidney disease/cancer. Black, but solid stools can also denote health concerns such as internal bleeding. Some supplements may darken the stool to an almost-black colour, including some soil based probiotic blends. Yellow/orange stools can also be of concern for your dog. Yellow or orange pooh is often soft in texture, and can be due to a number of health conditions. Those suffering with campylobacter often have yellow faeces. Another common reason a dog may have yellow or orange faeces is an issue with the liver, or bile production. Some intolerances present with yellow or orange pooh too, so an elimination diet may be useful. If your dog has yellow or orange stools, further investigation is required by your veterinarian. Pooh Textures Our dogs’ pooh comes in many textures, from so solid it crumbles, to completely watery. Each different pooh formation tells a different story, so it is important to learn what each type means! When your dog’s poop is extremely hard and/or crumbly, it is often shaped in multiple small pieces, and quite often white in colour. ‘Crumbly’ can also be described as the poop turning to dust upon landing on the ground, or when being picked up. Poops like this, are not desirable! These poops show the digestive tract is unable to cope with the recommended amount of bone in a fresh food diet, or that there is too much bone in the fresh diet you are feeding. If this is the case for your dog, you may need to dilute the bone content in the food you are feeding, by replacing 20g of the complete diet per 10kg bodyweight, with the same amount of boneless mince. Some owners prefer to switch to a bone alternative if their dog struggles to digest the bone content of balanced meals, to ensure they’re still getting the calcium they need, but in a form the dog tolerates better. You may also need to give a gut support supplement such as our supplement, Gut Guardian, which you can purchase here! Additional fibre may also be required in the diet. A hard but not crumbly poop is what we are aiming for! The pooh should be a log-like shape, and should be firm to touch (with a poop bag, of course!), but should not easily break apart. This is a great sign that your dog’s digestive tract is functioning well, and their diet is suiting them perfectly! Keep up with the good stuff! Sometimes you may spot a formed, but soft poop laying around, reminding you of the typical cartoon dog poop! These tend to be produced by those on a higher carbohydrate, more processed food (though not all dogs fed these diets will have this type of pooh!), or by a dog with a little digestive upset, be it an intolerance, or gut damage. A small parasitic burden could also result in this type of faeces. In this instance, you may wish to run a wormcount (order a kit from a reputable company, send off your sample, and await results) to check for intestinal parasites, look at running an elimination diet if your dog is already on fresh food, add in some gut support, some more fibre, and perhaps some extra bone. If your dog is fed a dry. Processed diet, switch to a fresh food diet. If you are unable to feed fresh, switching to a food with higher meat content, or a high quality wet food may help you out! If your dog produces a soft and unformed pooh, this should be investigated as it is a clear sign of some digestive upset, or lack of tolerance for
Omega oils are one of the most important components of your pet’s diet, but with such variety of products on the market, aimed both at animals and humans, how do we know which to opt for? Here at My Pet Nutritionist, we recommend a variety of different products from various different brands, and for many different reasons! This blog past aims to help you choose the right omega source for your pets, and explains how to tell one product from the next! What Are Omegas? Omegas are Fatty Acids with a huge variety of uses within the body. Cell membranes are partly formed by Omegas, which deems them an essential nutrient for all living beings. Brain and heart health are both aided by omegas, as well as weight management and cognitive development during puppyhood, and as seniors. Omegas also control part of the body’s inflammatory response, making them useful for joint health, as well as aiding the management of, prevention of, or treatment of many health conditions. Omega Fatty Acids come in three types: Omega 3 and Omega 6 fatty acids are both classed as ‘essential’ nutrients Omega 9 is classed as non-essential but is beneficial to include in the diet So how do the three types of omegas differ chemically? Each different type of omega has not only a different chemical structure, but they have a different amount of saturation of fat. Let’s take a look at their differences a bit more closely. Omega 3 Fatty Acids are ‘polyunsaturated’, which means there is more than one unsaturated carbon bond. In a diagram of chemical structure, you will see two or more ‘double bonds’ between carbon atoms, with a hydrogen atom missing. These polyunsaturated fatty acids cannot be produced by the body, and must be consumed in the diet. Omega 6 Fatty Acids are also ‘polyunsaturated’, however two of the Omega 6 Fatty Acids are able to be produced by the body, leaving the third needing to be consumed in the diet. Omega 9 Fatty Acids are ‘monounsaturated’, which means there is only one unsaturated carbon bond. In a diagram of chemical structure, you would see only one ‘double bond’ with no hydrogen attached to the carbon atoms. These fatty acids can be produced by the body, which makes them non-essential in the diet. We mentioned that some omegas play a role in the body’s inflammatory response, so let’s discuss which ones are inflammatory, and which are anti-inflammatory. Omegas 3 and 9 have some fantastic anti-inflammatory effects on the body, which aids joint health, and is also a contributor to the reduced risk of cancers. There is also one Omega 6 fatty acid which is anti-inflammatory. The names and health roles of these anti-inflammatory Omega 3, 6 and 9 Fatty Acids are as follows: Eicosapentaenoic Acid (EPA): Omega 3 Fatty Acid playing a role in general reduction in inflammation. Alpha-linolenic Acid (ALA): Omega 3 Fatty Acid playing a role in heart and immune health. Docosahexaenoic Acid (DHA): Omega 3 Fatty Acid playing a role in brain health and cognitive development. Gamma-linolenic Acid (GLA): Omega 6 Fatty Acid aiding the control of hormones. Oleic Acid (OA): Omega 9 Fatty Acid plays a large role in prevention of cancer and heart disease, and reduction of cholesterol. The other Omega 6 Fatty Acids are inflammatory, which negate the omega 3, and vice versa. It is very much a balancing act of omega 3 and 6 consumption, to receive the benefits of omega 6, but keep inflammation to a minimum. Linolenic Acid (LA): Omega 6 Fatty Acid which helps to prevent heart disease, keep a regular heartbeat, and potential to prevent blood clots. Arachidonic Acid (ARA): Omega 6 Fatty Acid which as an important signalling molecule, plays a huge role in the mediation of many cellular functions such as remodelling actin, a extremely important protein in some cells in the body, useful for protein-protein interactions. Findings Here Findings Here Findings Here Sources of Omega Where can we find these all important Omegas in order to add them into our pet’s diets? There are so many sources of Omegas, some good, some not so advisable. They are found in many forms, from fresh foods, to extracted oils which come in capsules, or in a large bottle, usually with a pump. There are meat based sources of omegas, and there are plant based sources of omegas. Some of the most popular sources of each type of Omega 3, 6 or 9 Fatty Acid we have discussed so far in this blog post, are: Eicosapentaenoic Acid (EPA): found in fatty fish and fish oils, as well as many algal oils. Alpha-linolenic Acid (ALA): found in flaxseed oil, chia seeds, walnut oil, perilla oil or oysters. Docosahexaenoic Acid (DHA): found in fatty fish , fish oils and algae oils, and eggs. Gamma-linolenic Acid (GLA): found in Hempseed oil, borage oil (to be given with caution, in small quantities only), and evening primrose oil (to be given with caution, and not to be given to epileptic pets) Linolenic Acid (LA): found in sunflower oil, some nuts, seeds, olive oil, flaxseed, avocado oil (though the amount here is low) and eggs. Arachidonic Acid (ARA): found in meat and poultry, particularly farmed. Oleic Acid (OA): found in olive oil, some fish oils, and some nuts. What to Look Out For When it comes to picking an omega source for our pets, as with anything, most of us want to make an informed decision to pick the absolute best for our furry friends! With such huge variety of Omega products on the market, how to we know what is best? How is one product different to another? As with many dietary additions, there are many qualities to look out for or avoid in different products. Not all products are equal in quality, so that’s where we come in handy – keep reading for pointers on selecting a source of omegas for your pets! Fresh Food Sources As with most things we
In our previous blog post, we wrote about exposure to environmental hazards in the home, garden, and local parks. Environmental hazards are around us the vast majority of the time, and not only in the home, garden, or on local open green spaces, but at beaches, around lakes, and in woodland areas too. How can we keep our pets safe from these environmental hazards? Read on in this blog post to find out what the potential hazards are, and how we can keep our furry family members safe! Around Lakes, Ponds and Streams Starting with water bodies – whether your pet is exposed to lakes, ponds or streams, there is potential for exposure to hazards! Blue-Green Algae More and more pet owners are becoming aware of blue-green algae blooms; but why should we avoid them? How do they form? Blue-green algae, also often referred to as Cyanobacteria, is a type of gram-negative bacteria, which presents much like an algae, which is why it’d informally known as blue-green algae. It forms in blooms, much like algal blooms, in lakes and ponds – usually still bodies of water. Conditions for the bacteria to thrive will differ from water body to water body, which is why it’s not present in every lake or pond you may come across. Contributing factors to it’s growth include water clarity, temperature, availability of sunlight, and availability of sufficient nutrients for bacterial growth. Typically, blue-green algae is seen between the months of May and September, as these months are when the conditions are generally suitable for bacterial growth. When walking near still bodies of water, you should look out for a discolouration to the water itself – the colour can range anywhere from neon green, to pea green, to blueish green, to a rusty reddish brown colour (not to be confused with the rusty coloured streams often seen in parts of the UK, which are caused by iron contamination, and a different type of bacteria), and the smell given off is quite unique; it often smells like pungent rotting food; certainly not a pleasant smell! Blooms of blue-green algae can be highly toxic to both humans and animals, due to toxins found in the bacteria. There is a variety of possible health problems that can come from blue-algae poisoning, ranging from mild to severe, such as: Rashes on the skin Nausea and vomiting Downward dog position (denoting abdominal pain) Diarrhoea High temperature Liver damage Kidney damage Neurological damage How do we avoid the risks associated with blue-green algae? When you are walking near still bodies of water, particularly in the aforementioned months, it is wise to keep your dog on a lead, at least until you have fully checked the water for contamination, or discolouration. If you suspect there is a bloom in the area you;re walking in, ensure your pet (and any human children!) keeps well away from it. Do not let them drink from the water body, nor swim in it. Some councils do put up signage in places where there are frequent blooms of cyanobacteria, but it is important not to rely on these! There is an application for mobile phones called “Bloomin’ Algae”, which is well worth downloading, as it shows reports of algal blooms. Sewerage Leaks and Other Contaminants Another risk of lakes and other water bodies, is sadly, and rather disgustingly, sewerage leaks and chemical contamination. It happens more than we care to imagine, and is pretty self explanatory. When sewers leak in to streams, toxic waste is transported down stream, and into any larger water bodies the stream leads to. With regard to chemical contamination, every now and then, you may hear of such an event on your local news, whereby a company or individual has disposed of toxic waste into a stream, whether by accident or on purpose. Depending on the spillage and type of contaminant, a host of health risks are present, from skin rashes, to vomiting and diarrhoea, to potential poisoning and internal organ damage. How can we avoid these areas? It can be tricky to tell if the stream you may be walking near has been contaminated, so it’s wise to keep an eye and ear open on local news channels, in newspapers, and on local community social media groups. Some water companies will map out sewerage and other contamination points, and their potential direction of travel, and display this on their websites and/or social media. Some may also offer an alert system for local residents to sign up to – this is worth investigating and signing up to any facilities for your area. Avoid walking in or near these places. Water Intoxication An example of an often overlooked environmental hazard your dog could be exposed to is water toxicity. Now, unlike the other hazards around lakes, ponds and streams, water toxicity doesn’t involve any contamination, and can happen even in the cleanest of water bodies! So what is water intoxication, if there is nothing toxic in the water? When a dog consumes too much water in a short amount of time, it can lead to water intoxication, scientifically known as hyponatremia. During play time in lakes and ponds, dogs can take in a huge amount of water, especially when retrieving items. When a dog takes in too much water in a short amount of time, the body loses sodium, which in turn causes cells to fill with water, and swell. Cells swelling throughout the body, but especially in the brain, can be fatal. Symptoms of water intoxication include: Vomiting Difficulty breathing Lethargy Glazed eyes Lack of coordination Excessive salivation Seizure activity Bloating Loss of consciousness What can we do to avoid water intoxication? It may seem pretty self explanatory, but in order to reduce the risk of water being ingested too fast, we must be careful with how we interact with our dogs when they are enjoying the use of ponds and lakes. Try to avoid throwing items for them to catch or retrieve –
