We love our feline friends here at My Pet Nutritionist, and one of the most commonly asked questions we get from concerned cat owners, is ‘does my indoor cat need different nutrition to cats who free-roam outside?’. Many cat owners keep their cats indoors for many reasons, from expensive pedigree breeds, to moggies. Some cats may live indoors for their own safety away from main roads, some may live indoors to help control medical needs, and some may live indoors, simply down to their breed. So, are there any different needs for these cats, versus the ones you may encounter when out and about? We will discuss this in this blog post, and help to put your mind at ease! Nutritional Needs Cats Are Carnivores Our kitty companions are what we call ‘obligate carnivores’. There are two types of carnivore (meat eaters); facultative, and obligate. Facultative carnivores (the likes of dogs and other canids) eat primarily meat, but may benefit from a little plant matter. Obligate carnivores are meat eaters that eat, and thrive on a purely meat diet with no plant matter at all. Our cats do not need vegetables or fruits to thrive. This is very much the same for indoor and outdoor cats – those with outdoor cats may often find their cats will even catch their own prey; some may even eat it, but many will bring their owner a ‘gift’ – how kind of them! Calorie Content While indoor and outdoor cats require the same nutrients, many indoor cat owners may notice their pets need a smaller portion of food vs their outdoor counterparts. Outdoor cats often tend to be more active than those with a purely indoor lifestyle, which of course burns more calories, meaning outdoor cats, particularly those who are more active and enjoy hunting or walking longer distances, may need larger meals than those who live a more sedentary lifestyle in the home. Protein Both indoor and outdoor cats need a high protein diet. Protein is incredibly important in the diet of cats, as it is one of the main energy sources used to maintain blood glucose levels due to metabolic adaptations carried by the cat. Protein is not only used to maintain blood glucose levels, but for general energy too; even in those who are fed a diet lacking in protein, resulting in rapid weight loss. This is seen very frequently in older cats fed a commercial dry food diet, as these are very high in carbs, and lack quality meat proteins. Amino acids are the building blocks of proteins, and there are 11 amino acids that are absolutely essential for cats; but there is one of particular importance, and that is Taurine. Taurine is used throughout the feline body to maintain healthy vision, aid cardiac muscle strength and contractions, maintain a healthy reproductive system, and keep the immune system in tip top condition. The protein content of your cat’s diet should remain the same regardless of being an indoor, or an outdoor cat, the source of the protein may need to be tweaked though, depending on activity levels, due to different amounts of fat per protein, which brings us nicely onto fats in the diet of indoor vs outdoor cats. Fat Now, fat is one of the most important nutrients in your cat’s diet! Fat is the main energy source for general activity in cats. When seeking out a meat suitable for your cat, it is important to consider your pet’s lifestyle, age and activity levels. A more sedentary indoor cat, will need a protein lower in fat than an active outdoor cat, as feeding a cat that is not very active, a meat with a high fat content will result in the energy creates not being used, and your pet could end up overweight. Chicken, turkey or white fish may be a better option than beef, as an example, for those with a less active lifestyle. Regardless of your cat being and inside, or outside cat, omega 3 fatty acids are a very important part of your cat’s diet! With cats eating meat, and lots of it, their natural intake of pro-inflammatory omega 6 fatty acids will be high. We need to balanced this out with added anti-inflammatory omega 3 fatty acids, in order to reduce inflammation in the body. You can read more about choosing an ideal omega 3 for your cat here! Furball Control Due to being indoors, and away from environmental temperature changes that naturally occur throughout the year, indoor cats tend to shed noticeably more than outdoor cats, and all year around, too! This bring the higher chance of furballs – with the telltale retching noise our furry friends do when they have consumed too much fur through regular grooming! In order to help these furballs pass easily through the gut, indoor cats often require a diet higher in fibre than those who roam freely outside. Supplements high in insoluble fibre can be included in the diet of indoor cats, or outdoor cats prone to furballs, in order to help them pass through the digestive tract with ease, and reduce the risk of intestinal blockage. Although indoor cats are obligate carnivores, insoluble fibre can be sought through feeding a very small amount of plant matter, or a cellulose (the fibrous substance making the cell wall of plant cells) supplement. Stress In Indoor Cats It is thought that indoor cats may also be subject to stress, particularly when their owner leaves them. Indoor cats can be very loyal, and very much attached to their owner, leaving them with the chance of separation anxiety. While this concept isn’t set in stone, and more research is needed to confirm it, it certainly is a possibility. Outdoor cats may also come into stressful situations when they meet other cats, or environmental challenges. There are nutrients we can include in our cat’s diet to help reduce stress, such as: Vitamin B6 which helps the body create red blood cells
The brain; that all important organ each and every one of us, and our pets, has! It controls everything in the body, whether it’s thoughts, memory, touch sensitivity, emotions, coordination, temperature regulation, endocrine (hormone) regulation, or any other process in the body. The brain is so important, and keeping it healthy should be every pet owner’s mission! But how do we do that? Find out in this blog post, how to keep the brain healthy! Changes Through Life Stages From teeny puppy, to elderly senior dog, your dog’s brain goes through many changes! As a newborn, your puppy will immediately know what to do when it comes to feeding – this is because the behaviour is instinctive – meaning they’re born automatically knowing how to feed, breathe, move, vocalise etc. Their eyes and ears are completely shut for the first two to three weeks, so instinct goes a long way! A puppy’s brain is not fully developed until the age of 2 years! As your puppy reaches 4 to 5 weeks, the next 8 or so weeks are absolutely crucial in socialisation and cognitive development. Many reputable breeders use a socialisation scheme called Puppy Culture, which is a socialisation structure to ensure your puppy gets the best socialisation and is comfortable in all new experiences they may come across in life! This cognitive stage is one of the most important times to focus on brain health. As your puppy reaches 6-12 months, hormones start to come into play. The brain is a huge producer of many hormones, so brain health during this stage, called ‘adolescence’, is extremely important. During this stage, you may find your puppy’s behaviour relapses a little, and you may find they become anxious in some situations. It is important to feed and supplement to aid brain health during these stages, and also take your training regime back to puppy basics. Keep reading to find out about diet and supplements for brain health! During adulthood, your dog’s brain health can massively dictate it’s typical mental state, how full his or her ‘anxiety bucket’ is, and how low the baseline of that bucket is – ie, their threshold of tolerance in some situations. The ‘anxiety bucket’ is a great way to look at a dog’s brain when it comes to tolerance – those with poorer brain health will have a higher baseline – think of a bucket. An empty bucket is a good sign – it means the dog is level headed, calm and happy. The bucket of a dog with poor brain health, will have material in the bottom of it, making less space for emotions to fit in it. Every trigger, or negative stimuli the dog experiences, adds into the bucket – when the bucket is full, the dog reacts. This is called Trigger Stacking. Those with poor brain health will fill their bucket quicker than those with good brain health (and more room in the bucket to start with!). As your dog reaches his or her senior years, and progresses through them, the brain health can begin to decline, just as it can in humans. As the dog ages, the body often starts to produce proteins known as Beta-Amyloids, which leave deposits on the brain. These deposits left on the brain cause nerve destruction, and leaves plaque in the brain, which hinders cognitive health. Plaque being present in the brain reduces the production of the all important neurotransmitters, which are the ‘messengers’ involved in almost every bodily process. As you can see, brain health should be a focus of all pet owners, throughout their pet’s life. What Causes Poor Brain Health? There are a number of reasons a dog may have poor brain health, so let’s take a look at them! Genetics can have a huge affect on brain health. If brain health is poor due to medical reasons along the breeding line. A genetically poor brain, will pass down through generations. Stress levels during welp can have an enormous impact on brain health in puppies. If a mother dog in welp is stressed, sadly this can have an affect on the puppies’ brain health. If we think back to our bucket analogy, puppies from stressed mothers will naturally have a lower threshold for tolerance, or a higher baseline in their bucket! Socialisation in the first 12 weeks of age can impact a puppy’s mental capabilities. If properly done, the puppy will be set up for a higher chance of success as it ages, if not done correctly, a lack of socialisation (new smells, sights, sounds, objects, ages of people, races in humans, transport methods, textures, and finally other dogs) can lead to poor brain health from an early age. Free Radicals are oxygen atoms in the body, containing an unpaired electron in their orbit, making the molecule unstable and reactive. These unstable oxygen atoms lead to oxidative stress, which opens the body, and especially brain, up to some serious health conditions, including cancer, a rapid cognitive decline and other issues. These are most commonly found in dogs fed diets lacking antioxidants, and also in ageing dogs. Inflammation in the body, especially common in those lacking omega 3 in the diet, causes inflammation on the brain, which can lead to brain disease, affecting hormone release, and production of neurotransmitters. Poor gut health is another common reason a dog may have poor brain health. This may seem quite disconnected, given the gut and the brain are at complete opposite ends of the body, but the two are connected by a pathway known as the gut-brain axis. The gut is much like a roundabout, and connects to many different parts of the body, which are the roundabout ‘exits’ – one of these exits heads to the brain, and the brain back to the gut. Poor gut health affects the brain, and poor brain health affects the gut. Neurotoxins in or around the pet are sadly something we see all too often in our initial consultations. Neurotoxins
There are so many reasons why your dog may have diarrhoea. At My Pet Nutritionist, we help lots of owners with dogs with frequent diarrhoea, and some common causes seem to come up more than others during client consultations. In this blog post, you will find information about the most common causes of diarrhoea in dogs. Diarrhoea is generally a symptom of a physiological stressor; a huge amount of conditions come under this. This blog post only touches the most common reasons we see in practice, however the cause of diarrhoea is certainly nowhere near limited to these issues – seeking veterinary attention if your dog has recurring diarrhoea is essential, in order to rule out any longer term, or more serious health problems. Parasitic Burdens Parasitic burdens, whether they’re intestinal worms, or protozoan parasites like giardia, often cause diarrhoea; in fact, diarrhoea is one of the most common symptoms of parasitic burdens. How do we know if our pets have parasitic burdens? So many pet parents are shocked when they’re informed their pet has parasites, purely on the basis that they cannot see them in the pet’s poop. Intestinal worms are only visible in the faeces if the burden is high. Diarrhoea can start to develop as soon as there are parasite eggs in the digestive tract – these are microscopic, so cannot be seen with the naked eye! Now, your veterinarian can run a faecal egg test, but you can also do these at home! There are various companies from whom you can order a sampling kit from. You simply follow the instructions, pop a poop sample in the provided pot, and pop it in the post back to the company you ordered from. Their laboratories will then look at your dog’s sample under the microscope, record the results, and return them via email. Some companies include protozoan parasites as standard, but others require a separate test for these. Lungworm counts are separate sampling kits, and require a pooled sample over the course of 3 days. It’s advisable to test for intestinal worms every 3 months, and lungworm every 6 to 8 weeks. Depending on the result of your wormcount, you may be able to treat it using GSE – we recommend the BioCare Grapefruit Extract. Heavier burdens may require veterinary intervention. You can read more about internal parasites in our comprehensive blog post here. Findings Here Findings Here Food Sensitivities Food sensitivities are an extremely common topic here at My Pet Nutritionist. We help a huge amount of owners overcome their pets’ dietary troubles when it comes to allergies and intolerances. Food allergies are caused by a malfunction of the immune system, whereas food intolerances are usually down to poor gut health, especially in cases of Leaky Gut where the gut wall integrity is poor. The gut microbiome is very fragile, and is ever so important for all round general health as 70-80% of the immune system resides in the gut. The microbiome as a whole, includes everything from good and bad bacteria, to parasites viruses etc, but a health gut microbiome is in perfect balance, where the ‘good guys’ out weigh the ‘bad guys’. When a dog has poor gut health, and in turn has food sensitivities, the ‘bad guys’ start to overrule the ‘good guys’, which then leads to diarrhoea. In order to work on food sensitivities, and rule out problematic ingredients form your dog’s diet, it is advisable to run a full elimination diet, and carry out lots of gut work through the use of mucilage herbs and probiotics, which will help to heal the gut wall, and improve the amount of ‘good guys’ in the gut microbiome, ultimately reducing the risk of diarrhoea and possible bacterial infections. Our Gut Guardian supplement is a high quality blend of mucilage herbs, soil based probiotics, and calming chamomile. Gut Guardian You can read more on running an elimination diet here. Findings Here Findings Here IBD and Lymphoplasmacytic Gastritis Another common topic among our clients in their consultations with the team is IBD – Inflammatory Bowel Disease. An extreme case of IBD can be diagnosed as Lymphoplasmacytic Gastritis. Lymphoplasmacytic Gastritis is a chronic form of IBD, whereby inflammatory cells and cytokines (the substance which stimulates inflammation of cells) penetrate the stomach and intestinal lining. As you can imagine, when inflammatory cells enter the digestive system, it causes havoc! The inflammatory cells invade the stomach and intestinal lining due to having been subject to an abnormal immune response. There is a huge link to the lymphatic system in the gut too; which means a knock on effect to the rest of the body is very likely. Lymphoplasmacytic Gastritis happens most commonly in older dogs, but has been known in dogs as young as 8 months old. There are a number of causes of this condition, including the adorementioned parasitic burdens and food sensitivities, as well as Small Intestine Bacterial Overgrowth (SIBO) whereby the bad bacteria in the small intestine’s microbiome overtake the goof bacteria, leading to diarrhoea. As with food sensitivities, gut health is very important in tackling this disease, and got work supplements are highly recommended. Reducing environmental toxins is also paramount in your journey to a better belly! You can read more about Lymphoplasmacytic Gastritis here. Findings Here Findings Here Stress and Anxiety Stress and anxiety can massively affect the gut. The gut is much like a roundabout, with a large number of axes stemming from it to other parts of the body, linking gut health to nearly every other system within the body! When it comes to stress, anxiety, and even excitement (when adrenaline is high), the gut-brain axis is in focus. The gut-brain axis means that stress, anxiety and excitement can affect the gut microbiome, and a bad gut microbiome can also have an affect on brain health and mood. Calm Complex If your dog gets particularly excited or stressed for their walks, you may find they have a loose stool, despite being
The pet food market is such a crowded place, and can feel like quite the minefield! With so many types of foods, different marketing strategies, complex looking labels and ingredients lists, it’s no wonder so many people come to us here at My Pet Nutritionist worrying about what to feed their dogs or cats! Of course, we always recommend fresh food, but some owners may be unable to for various reasons; all types of pet food have to follow the legal guidelines for labelling, so we are here to help you decipher pet food labels! What Is The Difference Between Complementary, And Complete? When looking at the many pet foods available, from dry kibble, to cold pressed, to freeze dried, airdried, wet or raw options, you may notice some will say ‘complete’ and others will be ‘complementary’. You can learn about the types of foods available on the market here. A ‘complete’ food will contain all the basic nutrition needed for its target species to survive on, whether that is through the use of synthetic micronutrients, or fresh sources of these nutrients. In terms of raw and fresh feeding, this will usually mean there are fruits and vegetables added to the raw meat, bone and offal, and usually an omega source too. If a dry food states this, there is usually some form of ‘added’ vitamins and minerals, often synthetically. Omega 3 is often lacking, even in ‘complete’ dry foods, as they are inherently inflammatory. A ‘complementary’ food, usually in the form of a premade 80-10-10 raw food, a pure meat wet food, or a ‘mixer biscuit’, means more ingredients are required to be added to make the diet complete, and provide nutrition required for an animal to thrive. Those feeding an ultra-processed diet including a ‘complementary’ dry option, will often be instructed to feed an accompanying wet food by the manufacturer. Those feeding a ‘complementary’ wet or raw food, will be encouraged to feed a mixture of fruits and vegetables alongside the food, and add in an omega source. Some ‘complementary’ wet foods also require additional calcium to be added.xx We have a fantastic blog post, all about balancing an 80-10-10 raw food, which you can read here. The Order of Ingredients on Labels The ingredients on dog food labels are ordered just the same as those on human food labels – the highest amount of any single ingredient in the food is the first on the list, whereas the last ingredient is that which occurs the least in the food. Some manufacturers put percentages of each ingredient, but this isn’t law, so many don’t. When a percentage is in brackets, it is as part of the ingredient it’s next to – so when a label states ‘meat and animal derivatives (chicken 4%)’ it means there’s 4% chicken, and the rest of the meat and animal derivatives are of unknown origin. Legally, dog food manufacturers do not need to declare what preservatives are used. Those who state ‘preservatives’ and ‘antioxidants’ will often use low quality, synthetic, often carcinogenic chemicals. How Much Meat Is In My Pet’s Food? Pet food labelling can be very misleading, and very clever in terms of informing the consumer of the meat content. Obviously with out obligate carnivore cats, and our facultative carnivorous dogs, meat is the most important part of the diet, so owners will often look at the flavour of a dog or cat food, and assume the main ingredient is that meat! Sadly this isn’t the case, and with clever wording, manufacturers are able to pull the wool over most pet owners’ eyes! Here is what the very careful labelling really means! If a product says ‘chicken flavour’ there is 0% to 3% chicken. If a product says ‘with chicken’, it has 4% chicken. If a product says ‘chicken’, it has at least 26% chicken. Similarly, if a product says ‘chicken AND beef’, there will be at least 26% of each meat, whereas when a product says ‘chicken WITH beef’, there will be at least 26% chicken and 4% beef. The subtle differences, of literally just one word, can make all the difference to the food’s quality! Working Out The Carb Content When you look on pet food labels, you may notice the ‘composition’ or ‘analytical constituants’ is listed – this includes the percentage of the food that is protein, crude fibre, crude oils and fats, crude ash, and moisture. You may notice there is one macronutrient missing here – the one we want to limit or eliminate; carbohydrates! By not listing the carb content of a food, it makes it harder for consumers to see the percentage of carbs in the food – higher percentages will likely put the buyer off. Most dry foods are between 40 and 60% carbohydrates! So how do we work out how much of a food is carbohydrate? This involves a very simple maths problem. Simply subtract the listed percentages of protein, fats/oils, fibre, ash and moisture from 100. The answer will give you the percentage of carbohydrates in the food. What Does ‘Crude’ Mean? When it comes to pet food labelling, ‘crude’ simply means ‘total’. So the ‘crude protein’ in a food, is the total amount of protein in a food, regardless of it’s source. The ‘crude fat’ in a food, is the total amount of fat in a food, regardless of the source. Is There Really ‘Ash’ In My Pet’s Food? Yes, and no – by ‘ash’, it doesn’t mean the manufacturer has added in a load of fire waste. Ash in pet food is the minerals and vitamins in a food. Strange term to describe some vitamins and minerals isn’t it? But there is method to the madness! When a food is analysed to work out the analytical constituents/composition, it is burnt in a special furnace, which weighs the content as it burns. As the food burns, it’s mass and weight will reduce gradually. Once the weight reaches a constant, and doesn’t
Naturally, many pet parents come to us, here at My Pet Nutritionist, having received abnormal blood and urine test results. Abnormal readings in our pets’ results, whether high or low, can be extremely worrying for many of us humans; one of the conditions shown through an abnormally low blood test result, is Hypoglycaemia. This blog looks at what it is, how to spot it, what causes it, what the vet may offer, and how you can support the body through diet and therapeutic supplements. What is Hypoglycaemia? If we break down the word ‘hypoglycaemia’ into three parts, we know what this condition entails. ‘Hypo’ means ‘under’ or ‘less’, ‘Glyc’ relates to ‘glucose’ (a monosaccharide carbohydrate; a type of sugar that can be used for energy but must be consumed for it to be present in the body. It is stored as Glycogen), and ‘aemia’ related to ‘blood’. Hypoglycaemia is a metabolic condition diagnosed when your pet has low blood sugar, or low blood glucose readings to be precise! In healthy dogs, the blood glucose level should be between 3.3 and 6.1mmol/L. If your pet’s blood results come back having a blood glucose concentration lower than 3.3mmol/L, your pet has hypoglycaemia, and requires medical attention, and may benefit in many cases from a diet change. Which we will discuss later in this blog. As glucose is one of the main sources of energy, a lack of it can affect various organs in the body, including the brain! Findings Here Symptoms of Hypoglycaemia There are a range of symptoms associated with hypoglycaemia in cats and dogs. If you see any of these symptoms in your pet, seek veterinary assistance as soon as possible! Symptoms you may see include: Reduced appetite Fatigue and lethargy Excessive water consumption (polydipsia) Excessive urination (polyuria) Reduced coordination, and slow response times Rear end weakness, or complete loss of use Seizure activity, including mild tremors, involuntary twitching, and full seizures Neurologically associated symptoms listed above, and reduced willingness to move or exercise are often the earliest signs of hypoglycaemia. Causes of Hypoglycaemia So what could cause your pet to get low blood glucose concentration readings? There are two categories we need to look at here – physiological reasons, and pathological reasons. Let’s start with physiological reasons why your pet’s blood glucose levels may be low: Overworking/extreme exercise. This is often referred to as ‘hunting dog hypoglycaemia’, and happens mostly in dogs as opposed to cats, but can happen in cats too! Overworked pets will use all available glucose for energy, then reserves of glucose in the body are diminished, causing the aforementioned symptoms. These dogs often have inadequate glycogen stores for the amount of work they are asked to do. Malnutrition. Now, malnutrition can be many things – It can be a lack of appropriate diet, the lack of enough food/calories, or even excess portions/calories. In the case of hypoglycaemia, pets with an inadequate dietary consumption of glucose end up with depleted glycogen stores as they use these for energy. Small Stature/Anorexia. Young smaller breed puppies, or juvenile toy breed dogs can be at a greater risk of hypoglycaemia. In cats, anorexia is a possible cause of hypoglycaemia. This is because they have limited muscle mass and body fat, meaning glycogen stores are limited, and blood glucose is used up very quickly. Toxicity. Whether it’s toxicity associated with medications/drugs, consumption of xylitol, or other toxic substances, in some cases in both dogs and cats, hypersecretion of insulin occurs, which lowers blood glucose levels. Similarly, if a diabetic pet has been given two doses of insulin too close together, hypoglycaemia may occur. Extreme vomiting. This is one of the most common reasons a cat may have low blood glucose concentrations, but is possible in dogs too. As the pet vomits excessively, blood glucose is used, and ultimately this causes depletion of glycogen stores in the body. Findings Here Findings Here Moving onto pathological causes of hypoglycaemia in pets, there are many endocrine and hepatic diseases associated with low blood glucose concentration in pets. Let’s take a look at these: Diabetes. This is one of the most common causes of hypoglycaemia in both cats and dogs. When the body produces too much insulin, or the pet is given too much insulin in the event of a hyperglycaemic attack, glucose production is decreased, and hypoglycaemia occurs. You can read more about diabetes in dogs here. Severe hepatic disease. Whether your pat has hepatitis, cirrhosis of the liver, neoplasia or any other liver disease, hypoglycaemia is a risk. The liver plays a role in glucose storage, in the form of glycogen – this is called hepatic gluconeogenesis. When the liver is diseased, it is unable to perform this function, leading to low glycogen storage, and therefore, low blood glucose concentration. Both cats and dogs can fall victim to these issues. Portosystemic Shunt. This also causes hepatic gluconeogenesis to decrease, as the vein transporting blood to and from the intestines and heart, bypasses the liver. This is seen more commonly in dogs than cats. Hypoadrenocorticism (Addison’s Disease). This disease is associated with the endocrine system. The counter regulatory hormone, Cortisol, plays a huge role in keeping glucose levels stable in the bloodstream, however in cases of Hypoadrenocorticism, when the adrenal gland which releases cortisol is unable to do so, glucose production is inhibited. This can happen in both cats and dogs. Hypopituitarism. Another endocrine condition, this time affecting the pituitary gland, and it’s ability to release relevant hormones. When the gland is unable to produce and release other counter-regulatory hormones, this time being Growth Hormone and adrenocorticotropic hormone, the glycogen stores are diminished as glucose production is slower than the rate it is being used at. Both cats and dogs can be at risk of this pathway. Islet Cell Hyperplasia and Insulinoma. These are two conditions related to the excessive secretion of insulin. Insulin in high amounts makes the body use excessive amounts of glucose, which lowers the blood glucose concentration. These
At My Pet Nutritionist, we help a lot of dogs and cats with kidney and liver disease. These can be caused by many other health aspects, and both require management with diet, supplements, and lifestyle changes, alongside conventional veterinary medicine. Those who we have helped with kidney or liver disease will have been recommended, and formulated a gently cooked diet, specific to the pet’s condition. Why do we recommend a cooked diet for these pets? Find out with us in this blog post as we look at kidney and liver function, and why when diseased, these require a cooked diet! Role of the Kidneys In order to understand why a cooked diet is best for kidney and liver disease, it’s important to know what the kidney and liver do, what stresses them, and what kidney and liver disease are. First up, kidneys. The mammalian body has two kidneys, which are shaped much like a bean (hence the bean commonly used in Mexican cookery among other cuisines being called a ‘kidney bean’; this is the shape of your pet’s, an your own kidneys). They are found in the abdomen of your pet, either side of the spine for dogs, and just below the spine for cats. The kidneys are an incredibly important organ, and without them, the body would be extremely toxic. Kidneys are essentially the body’s built in filter! They remove waste products and substances from both the blood, and the urine. The level of many components of a health blood stream is largely controlled by the kidneys, which also contributes to control of blood pressure. The kidneys are also involved in the endocrine system, which stimulate red blood cell production, and help to regulate calcium homeostasis. You can learn more about kidney function here. As with any organ, it is important to refrain from overstressing the kidneys. There are various factors which may contribute to added pressure on the kidneys such as: High blood pressure High blood sugar (diabetic pets can be more at risk of kidney disease) High sodium levels in the diet Prolonged use of NSAID drugs High phosphorous levels in the diet Processed foods Too much protein in the diet Poor quality protein in the diet Dogs and cats with kidney disease can be at stage 1-4, each stage worsening. When the kidneys are under immense pressure, kidney disease often occurs. We do see a lot of cases of Chronic Kidney Disease (CKD), as well as other kidney diseases in practice at My Pet Nutritionist. Kidney disease can be trickier to diagnose in cats because they often urinate and drink where the owner is unable to monitor, but is seen in a staggering 1 in 3 cats! Symptoms of kidney disease include: Drinking excessively (polydipsia) Increased urination (polyuria) Vomiting and diarrhoea Rapid weight loss Reduced appetite Anaemia (pale gums and tongue) Increased blood pressure Loss of eyesight Reduced bone density You can learn more about kidney disease for cats here and for dogs here. Role of the Liver Next up, the liver. The liver is a sort of triangle shaped organ, which sits inside the ribcage in both cats and dogs. It consists of 6 lobes, and is extremely important! Much like the kidneys, blood passes through the liver to be cleaned. It plays many roles in the body, such as: Detoxification of the blood from certain medications and environmental toxins Converts ammonia to urea Produces bile, which breaks down fats Breaks down nutrients in the blood, and makes them useable Synthesises some proteins for healthy blood plasma Stores iron Converts excess glucose to glycogen, which is stored in the liver, and can be used as an energy source Regulates blood clotting Helps to remove bacteria from within the blood stream Removes bilirubin from the blood When it comes to stressing the liver, there are various consumables which can put added pressure on the liver, and ultimately cause it to become sluggish, and often results in the onset of liver disease. Feeding a high fat diet puts a huge strain on the liver, as it is unable to produce enough bile quickly enough to digest the fats. High carbohydrate (or sugary) diets can also add pressure on the liver, as well as diets too high in salt. Liver Guard We also need to look at reducing the chemical intake of your pet! Since the liver plays a role in blood detoxification of certain medications, it is wise to use natural flea and worm preventatives, since the often prescribed pharmaceutical chewable options on the market sadly release toxins into your pet’s blood stream, making extra work for the liver. A lot of reports from pet owners with pets affected by these chewable flea, tick and worm treatments have reported a reduction in liver function, or the onset of liver disease! Those with liver disease, often caused by frequent overworking of the liver, tends to be more common in dogs than in cats, but is seen in both species. The symptoms you may see in liver disease patients include: Loss of appetite Rapid weight loss Vomiting and diarrhoea Neurological activity such as seizures (hepatic encephalopathy) Jaundice (yellowing to the eyes and skin) Excessive drinking (polydipsia) Excessive urination (polyuria) Reduction in blood clotting Abdominal bloating You can learn more about liver disease for cats and dogs here. Why Cooked Food? When our customers come to us with a pet with liver or kidney disease, we recommend they switch to a cooked diet. Cooked food is very much the most appropriate option for pets with kidney or liver disease, for a few reasons: Lower phosphorous levels for kidneys: when a pet has kidney disease, feeding low phosphorous is incredibly important because when the kidneys are damaged, they struggle to remove phosphorous from the blood. While phosphorous is an important nutrient for strong bones and teeth, as well as muscular recovery, in excessive amounts, it can affect bone health, and cardiovascular health. When the ingredients in a properly balanced recipe
At My Pet Nutritionist, we help a lot of worried pets owners who’s feline and canine companions have a condition called Pica. Pica can be indirectly life threatening, so we are here to raise awareness of what it is, why it happens, and how we can reduce risk in your pets! What is Pica, and What Causes It? Pica is a compulsive behavioural condition, whereby the pet craves inedible objects. Being a compulsive behavioural disorder, Pica can be very tricky to combat, and requires the help of one, or many professionals, from force free behaviourists to pet nutritionists like us. Underlying illnesses can very much trigger pica in pets, and this is the side we can help you with most. Some of the items commonly ingested by pets with Pica include stones/rocks, dirt, garbage, paper, socks, other fabric items, even walls and plasterboard, or licking paintwork. Faeces is another, which we delve a little deeper into next! As the items often consumed by pets with Pica are often not digestible, they can cause a host of symptoms relating to gut damage, gastric ulceration, internal blockages, and other internal health worries. Symptoms of a secondary health problem include: Vomiting Constipation Diarrhoea Fishy or metallic breath Excessive drinking Excessive drooling Lip licking ‘Downward dog’ position, denoting gastrointestinal pain Burping Changes in behaviour (dogs will often seem ‘low’, cats will often hide) Lethargy When it comes to underlying medical causes of Pica, there are quite a few conditions that can be associated, such as: Lack of nutritional balance leading to malnutrition (likely the most common cause) Kidney disease Immune Mediated Haemolytic Anaemia (IMHA) Parasitic burdens Inflammatory Bowed Disease (IBD) or Lymphatic Gastritis Iron Deficiency Over active thyroid (hyperthyroidism) Diabetes Leaky Gut/poor gut health Gastrointestinal tumours Findings Here Findings Here Those on certain anti seizure medications such as phenobarbital, some pain medications, corticosteroid medications, and some anti-cancer treatments like chemotherapy may also experience Pica. Findings Here Findings Here If we look at causes from a behavioural point of view, it can be particularly common in those with separation anxiety, those lacking mental or physical stimulation, and those lacking appropriate socialization leading to stress. These are all areas to be worked on with a qualified, force free behaviourist, for which specialists in both dogs and cats are available. Coprophagia, A Type of Pica Now, those who are serial faeces eaters, do still have Pica, but a specific type of Pica, known as Coprophagia. Coprophagy occurs more in females than it does in males, and more commonly in dogs than cats. Coprophagy can be normal, specifically in the case of a mother dog with puppies. When nursing a litter of puppies, mother dogs are instinctively clean, and consume their puppy’s excrement for the first few weeks. It is not normal for adult pets who are not nursing litters, to eat faecal matter – this is when coprophagy is not expected, and needs looking into. Findings Here A Side Note on Puppies We feel it is important to mention puppies, specifically. While Pica is indeed, very dangerous in many cases, puppies do explore the world with their mouth! Puppies will often chew inedible items, and ingest parts of toys, socks, splinters of wood from items of furniture they’ve ‘kindly’ redesigned for you; this is quite normal in young and adolescent puppies, and may not follow through to adulthood where Pica becomes an obsessive problem, where underlying illness should be ruled out. To give your puppy the best chance of not ingesting inedible artifacts, ensure plenty of rest is enforced, as well as plenty of mental stimulation. A strong ‘leave it’ command can be majorly beneficial too, and what a better time to instil this, than as a puppy?! Diagnosis and Treatment If you suspect your pet has Pica, it is important to seek veterinary guidance as your first point of call, as acting on the potential for underlying health conditions is important. Similarly, if your dog or cat is experiencing any of the aforementioned symptoms, veterinary help is likely required to reduce the risk of death due to internal blockage. So how is it diagnosed by the vet? Your veterinarian will look at your pet’s medical history – if you have been able to keep a diary of food and behaviour alongside symptoms, this can really aid your vet! A physical examination may be performed, which will feel everything from your dog’s body condition to their lymph nodes. The dog’s mouth will be checked to rule our dental issues, and their heart and lungs will be listened to via stethoscope. Full panel blood tests, and urinalyses may be carried out too, for a more internal approach to diagnostics of underlying health conditions. If the vet feels a blockage is occurring in your pet, they may perform an ultrasound or x-ray, followed by potential surgery for treatment of this issue. Treatments wise, the suitable treatment for any diagnosed internal, underlying condition will be discussed and prescribed. If your vet does not feel surgery or pharmaceutical treatment will be beneficial to your pet, they will likely refer you to a veterinary behaviourist, or other force free behaviourist. How Can We Reduce Risks? In order to reduce the risk of harm from objects consumed by those suffering with Pica, there are a number of precautions we can look at taking – these stem from both a training perspective, and a diet perspective! Training Aids It may seem obvious, but it is incredibly important that we monitor our pets’ actions, especially if they are known to suffer with Pica. Teaching a solid ‘leave it’ command using positive reinforcement is essential. Discuss this with your trainer – it can be learnt at any age. Muzzle training is important for all dogs! This is trickier for cats, but cat muzzles are available to buy. Muzzle training not only means your dog is comfortable in their muzzle, which acts as a barrier between their mouth and the inedible items they like to consume,
If there’s one thing us dog owners and carers see and handle a lot, its poop! It comes in all different colours, shapes, sizes and textures, but do you know if your dog’s poop is ‘good’, or ‘bad’? At My Pet Nutritionist, we often hear from panicked pet parents regarding their pet’s faeces, and if it looks how it should! This handy guide looks at everything ‘dog poop’, including some troubleshooting tips along the way! Pooh Colours When it comes to colour, dog pooh can vary massively! Different colours can indicate different things, so let’s have a look at common dog pooh colours, and what they might mean! Brown is typically associated with poop. Brown can come in any shade, from very light brown, to very dark brown. Brown is a very ‘normal’ colour for faeces. If you feed fresh food, you may notice your dog’s pooh is darker on darker proteins such as lamb, duck or beef, and lighter, almost cream in colour, on lighter proteins like turkey, chicken or white fish. White pooh is commonly seen for two reasons. If it is an older pooh which has been laying around in the garden, it may be simply that it has dried out or been ‘sun bleached’ – especially if your dog is raw fed. If your dog is producing fresh white coloured pooh, and is raw fed, this can be a sign that your dog is not tolerating bone well. In these instances, you may need to switch to a cooked food using one of our recipes, or look at using a bone substitute. Mixed coloured pooh is a common occurrence in fresh fed dogs, and sends a lot of pet owners into panic-mode! Mixed coloured pooh when feeding a fresh food diet is completely normal! You may observe light and dark brown parts withing your dog’s faeces, which is due to your dog having eaten a variety of different proteins. If your dog has eaten a mixture of light and dark proteins in the last day or so, it’s likely their poop will be multi-coloured! Black pooh is something we don’t want to see, particularly if it is loose in texture too! Tarry stools are caused by the presence of Melena (blood) in the faeces, which can be secondary to a number of digestive issues, parasite burdens, liver or kidney disease/cancer. Black, but solid stools can also denote health concerns such as internal bleeding. Some supplements may darken the stool to an almost-black colour, including some soil based probiotic blends. Yellow/orange stools can also be of concern for your dog. Yellow or orange pooh is often soft in texture, and can be due to a number of health conditions. Those suffering with campylobacter often have yellow faeces. Another common reason a dog may have yellow or orange faeces is an issue with the liver, or bile production. Some intolerances present with yellow or orange pooh too, so an elimination diet may be useful. If your dog has yellow or orange stools, further investigation is required by your veterinarian. Pooh Textures Our dogs’ pooh comes in many textures, from so solid it crumbles, to completely watery. Each different pooh formation tells a different story, so it is important to learn what each type means! When your dog’s poop is extremely hard and/or crumbly, it is often shaped in multiple small pieces, and quite often white in colour. ‘Crumbly’ can also be described as the poop turning to dust upon landing on the ground, or when being picked up. Poops like this, are not desirable! These poops show the digestive tract is unable to cope with the recommended amount of bone in a fresh food diet, or that there is too much bone in the fresh diet you are feeding. If this is the case for your dog, you may need to dilute the bone content in the food you are feeding, by replacing 20g of the complete diet per 10kg bodyweight, with the same amount of boneless mince. Some owners prefer to switch to a bone alternative if their dog struggles to digest the bone content of balanced meals, to ensure they’re still getting the calcium they need, but in a form the dog tolerates better. You may also need to give a gut support supplement such as our supplement, Gut Guardian, which you can purchase here! Additional fibre may also be required in the diet. A hard but not crumbly poop is what we are aiming for! The pooh should be a log-like shape, and should be firm to touch (with a poop bag, of course!), but should not easily break apart. This is a great sign that your dog’s digestive tract is functioning well, and their diet is suiting them perfectly! Keep up with the good stuff! Sometimes you may spot a formed, but soft poop laying around, reminding you of the typical cartoon dog poop! These tend to be produced by those on a higher carbohydrate, more processed food (though not all dogs fed these diets will have this type of pooh!), or by a dog with a little digestive upset, be it an intolerance, or gut damage. A small parasitic burden could also result in this type of faeces. In this instance, you may wish to run a wormcount (order a kit from a reputable company, send off your sample, and await results) to check for intestinal parasites, look at running an elimination diet if your dog is already on fresh food, add in some gut support, some more fibre, and perhaps some extra bone. If your dog is fed a dry. Processed diet, switch to a fresh food diet. If you are unable to feed fresh, switching to a food with higher meat content, or a high quality wet food may help you out! If your dog produces a soft and unformed pooh, this should be investigated as it is a clear sign of some digestive upset, or lack of tolerance for
Omega oils are one of the most important components of your pet’s diet, but with such variety of products on the market, aimed both at animals and humans, how do we know which to opt for? Here at My Pet Nutritionist, we recommend a variety of different products from various different brands, and for many different reasons! This blog past aims to help you choose the right omega source for your pets, and explains how to tell one product from the next! What Are Omegas? Omegas are Fatty Acids with a huge variety of uses within the body. Cell membranes are partly formed by Omegas, which deems them an essential nutrient for all living beings. Brain and heart health are both aided by omegas, as well as weight management and cognitive development during puppyhood, and as seniors. Omegas also control part of the body’s inflammatory response, making them useful for joint health, as well as aiding the management of, prevention of, or treatment of many health conditions. Omega Fatty Acids come in three types: Omega 3 and Omega 6 fatty acids are both classed as ‘essential’ nutrients Omega 9 is classed as non-essential but is beneficial to include in the diet So how do the three types of omegas differ chemically? Each different type of omega has not only a different chemical structure, but they have a different amount of saturation of fat. Let’s take a look at their differences a bit more closely. Omega 3 Fatty Acids are ‘polyunsaturated’, which means there is more than one unsaturated carbon bond. In a diagram of chemical structure, you will see two or more ‘double bonds’ between carbon atoms, with a hydrogen atom missing. These polyunsaturated fatty acids cannot be produced by the body, and must be consumed in the diet. Omega 6 Fatty Acids are also ‘polyunsaturated’, however two of the Omega 6 Fatty Acids are able to be produced by the body, leaving the third needing to be consumed in the diet. Omega 9 Fatty Acids are ‘monounsaturated’, which means there is only one unsaturated carbon bond. In a diagram of chemical structure, you would see only one ‘double bond’ with no hydrogen attached to the carbon atoms. These fatty acids can be produced by the body, which makes them non-essential in the diet. We mentioned that some omegas play a role in the body’s inflammatory response, so let’s discuss which ones are inflammatory, and which are anti-inflammatory. Omegas 3 and 9 have some fantastic anti-inflammatory effects on the body, which aids joint health, and is also a contributor to the reduced risk of cancers. There is also one Omega 6 fatty acid which is anti-inflammatory. The names and health roles of these anti-inflammatory Omega 3, 6 and 9 Fatty Acids are as follows: Eicosapentaenoic Acid (EPA): Omega 3 Fatty Acid playing a role in general reduction in inflammation. Alpha-linolenic Acid (ALA): Omega 3 Fatty Acid playing a role in heart and immune health. Docosahexaenoic Acid (DHA): Omega 3 Fatty Acid playing a role in brain health and cognitive development. Gamma-linolenic Acid (GLA): Omega 6 Fatty Acid aiding the control of hormones. Oleic Acid (OA): Omega 9 Fatty Acid plays a large role in prevention of cancer and heart disease, and reduction of cholesterol. The other Omega 6 Fatty Acids are inflammatory, which negate the omega 3, and vice versa. It is very much a balancing act of omega 3 and 6 consumption, to receive the benefits of omega 6, but keep inflammation to a minimum. Linolenic Acid (LA): Omega 6 Fatty Acid which helps to prevent heart disease, keep a regular heartbeat, and potential to prevent blood clots. Arachidonic Acid (ARA): Omega 6 Fatty Acid which as an important signalling molecule, plays a huge role in the mediation of many cellular functions such as remodelling actin, a extremely important protein in some cells in the body, useful for protein-protein interactions. Findings Here Findings Here Findings Here Sources of Omega Where can we find these all important Omegas in order to add them into our pet’s diets? There are so many sources of Omegas, some good, some not so advisable. They are found in many forms, from fresh foods, to extracted oils which come in capsules, or in a large bottle, usually with a pump. There are meat based sources of omegas, and there are plant based sources of omegas. Some of the most popular sources of each type of Omega 3, 6 or 9 Fatty Acid we have discussed so far in this blog post, are: Eicosapentaenoic Acid (EPA): found in fatty fish and fish oils, as well as many algal oils. Alpha-linolenic Acid (ALA): found in flaxseed oil, chia seeds, walnut oil, perilla oil or oysters. Docosahexaenoic Acid (DHA): found in fatty fish , fish oils and algae oils, and eggs. Gamma-linolenic Acid (GLA): found in Hempseed oil, borage oil (to be given with caution, in small quantities only), and evening primrose oil (to be given with caution, and not to be given to epileptic pets) Linolenic Acid (LA): found in sunflower oil, some nuts, seeds, olive oil, flaxseed, avocado oil (though the amount here is low) and eggs. Arachidonic Acid (ARA): found in meat and poultry, particularly farmed. Oleic Acid (OA): found in olive oil, some fish oils, and some nuts. What to Look Out For When it comes to picking an omega source for our pets, as with anything, most of us want to make an informed decision to pick the absolute best for our furry friends! With such huge variety of Omega products on the market, how to we know what is best? How is one product different to another? As with many dietary additions, there are many qualities to look out for or avoid in different products. Not all products are equal in quality, so that’s where we come in handy – keep reading for pointers on selecting a source of omegas for your pets! Fresh Food Sources As with most things we
In our previous blog post, we wrote about exposure to environmental hazards in the home, garden, and local parks. Environmental hazards are around us the vast majority of the time, and not only in the home, garden, or on local open green spaces, but at beaches, around lakes, and in woodland areas too. How can we keep our pets safe from these environmental hazards? Read on in this blog post to find out what the potential hazards are, and how we can keep our furry family members safe! Around Lakes, Ponds and Streams Starting with water bodies – whether your pet is exposed to lakes, ponds or streams, there is potential for exposure to hazards! Blue-Green Algae More and more pet owners are becoming aware of blue-green algae blooms; but why should we avoid them? How do they form? Blue-green algae, also often referred to as Cyanobacteria, is a type of gram-negative bacteria, which presents much like an algae, which is why it’d informally known as blue-green algae. It forms in blooms, much like algal blooms, in lakes and ponds – usually still bodies of water. Conditions for the bacteria to thrive will differ from water body to water body, which is why it’s not present in every lake or pond you may come across. Contributing factors to it’s growth include water clarity, temperature, availability of sunlight, and availability of sufficient nutrients for bacterial growth. Typically, blue-green algae is seen between the months of May and September, as these months are when the conditions are generally suitable for bacterial growth. When walking near still bodies of water, you should look out for a discolouration to the water itself – the colour can range anywhere from neon green, to pea green, to blueish green, to a rusty reddish brown colour (not to be confused with the rusty coloured streams often seen in parts of the UK, which are caused by iron contamination, and a different type of bacteria), and the smell given off is quite unique; it often smells like pungent rotting food; certainly not a pleasant smell! Blooms of blue-green algae can be highly toxic to both humans and animals, due to toxins found in the bacteria. There is a variety of possible health problems that can come from blue-algae poisoning, ranging from mild to severe, such as: Rashes on the skin Nausea and vomiting Downward dog position (denoting abdominal pain) Diarrhoea High temperature Liver damage Kidney damage Neurological damage How do we avoid the risks associated with blue-green algae? When you are walking near still bodies of water, particularly in the aforementioned months, it is wise to keep your dog on a lead, at least until you have fully checked the water for contamination, or discolouration. If you suspect there is a bloom in the area you;re walking in, ensure your pet (and any human children!) keeps well away from it. Do not let them drink from the water body, nor swim in it. Some councils do put up signage in places where there are frequent blooms of cyanobacteria, but it is important not to rely on these! There is an application for mobile phones called “Bloomin’ Algae”, which is well worth downloading, as it shows reports of algal blooms. Sewerage Leaks and Other Contaminants Another risk of lakes and other water bodies, is sadly, and rather disgustingly, sewerage leaks and chemical contamination. It happens more than we care to imagine, and is pretty self explanatory. When sewers leak in to streams, toxic waste is transported down stream, and into any larger water bodies the stream leads to. With regard to chemical contamination, every now and then, you may hear of such an event on your local news, whereby a company or individual has disposed of toxic waste into a stream, whether by accident or on purpose. Depending on the spillage and type of contaminant, a host of health risks are present, from skin rashes, to vomiting and diarrhoea, to potential poisoning and internal organ damage. How can we avoid these areas? It can be tricky to tell if the stream you may be walking near has been contaminated, so it’s wise to keep an eye and ear open on local news channels, in newspapers, and on local community social media groups. Some water companies will map out sewerage and other contamination points, and their potential direction of travel, and display this on their websites and/or social media. Some may also offer an alert system for local residents to sign up to – this is worth investigating and signing up to any facilities for your area. Avoid walking in or near these places. Water Intoxication An example of an often overlooked environmental hazard your dog could be exposed to is water toxicity. Now, unlike the other hazards around lakes, ponds and streams, water toxicity doesn’t involve any contamination, and can happen even in the cleanest of water bodies! So what is water intoxication, if there is nothing toxic in the water? When a dog consumes too much water in a short amount of time, it can lead to water intoxication, scientifically known as hyponatremia. During play time in lakes and ponds, dogs can take in a huge amount of water, especially when retrieving items. When a dog takes in too much water in a short amount of time, the body loses sodium, which in turn causes cells to fill with water, and swell. Cells swelling throughout the body, but especially in the brain, can be fatal. Symptoms of water intoxication include: Vomiting Difficulty breathing Lethargy Glazed eyes Lack of coordination Excessive salivation Seizure activity Bloating Loss of consciousness What can we do to avoid water intoxication? It may seem pretty self explanatory, but in order to reduce the risk of water being ingested too fast, we must be careful with how we interact with our dogs when they are enjoying the use of ponds and lakes. Try to avoid throwing items for them to catch or retrieve –
Here at My Pet Nutritionist, we understand the importance of keeping your pets healthy. As we often write about, keeping the gut healthy and feeding a fresh balanced diet are two steps toward a full picture of health. The world around us is sadly a very toxic place, with us and our pets being surrounded by environmental hazards at nearly all times! How can we avoid this exposure? What can we do to negate the potential effects of environmental toxins and hazards? This bumper two-part blog post will look at a host of potential dangers in a variety of environments you may frequent regularly with your pets in tow, how you can reduce exposure to these, and what we can do to help the body cope with it’s environment. Part 1 looks at hazards in the home, garden, and local parklands. Click here for Part 2, which will look at hazards in and around lakes, woodlands, and beaches. Domestic Environment The first of our areas of exposure to environmental hazards, is the place you and your pets probably spend most of your time; at home, or even in other people’s homes, cafes, and shops. All the indoors places. Your pet may be exposed to a huge variety of environmental hazards when inside, so let’s take a look at some of these. Cleaning Products Take a look at the cleaning products you use in your home. You may have floor cleaners, bleach, surface cleaners, laundry detergent, laundry softener, laundry scent boosters, carpet cleaners, stain removal products, window cleaning sprays, dishwasher tablets; the list goes on! When you think about every cleaning product used in your home, you can really begin to see how exposed your pet might be to them! Every surface they touch, the air they breathe – it all contributes to exposure. Now, take a look at the ingredients label on each product. Can you easily identify each ingredient? Are there some long, science-y looking words you haven’t heard of before? It’s quite likely! Next have a look at the warning label; what warnings does the product come with? Irritation to skin or eyes, hazard to health, hazardous to the environment, corrosive, acute toxicity; these are all common warnings on household cleaning products! Some of the more worrying ingredients often used in cleaning products are: Ammonia Chlorine Bleach Isopropyl Alcohol Formaldehyde Pine But my bottle says ‘pet friendly’… sadly, the ‘pet friendly’ qualities of a product, merely mean that the product won’t kill your pet if used correctly. Just because a product is pet friendly, doesn’t mean that exposure to it can cause some health issues in pets, including most commonly, skin issues, and sometimes breathing issues too. Conventional cleaning products can cause so many problems in pets through exposure by touching, inhaling or ingesting, including: Burns to the skin, throat or gastrointestinal system Dry skin, rashes and itching Interdigital cysts Lethargy Vomiting and diarrhoea Seizures/neurological abnormalities Stomach ulcers Your dog or cat may breathe in particles of sprays, lick flooring or textiles, lick their fur or paws after contact with cleaning chemicals, have direct contact with chemicals by walking through the house or laying on furnishings etc. What can we do to reduce exposure to these products? Lots! You can make lots of excellent switches in your home, to more natural products, without the risk of nasty side affects if ingested, inhaled, or touched. Some handy ideas are as follows: Provilan Probiotic Cleaning Products from Ingenious Probiotics (in the UK – other suppliers may be available) are a fantastic range of natural cleaning products, with the added bonus of good bacteria in the form of probiotics. The bacteria outcompetes/eats the bad bacteria in the area being cleaned, and is completely unharmful for pets! No only are they safe, but they’re beneficial too! Baking soda (bicarbonate of soda) mixed with water can be used to scrub places like toilets, sinks, ovens etc White vinegar or apple cider vinegar mixed with water can be great for cleaning hard surfaces, and soft furnishings. Home Fragrance Home fragrance is a big, but important topic when it comes to hazardous exposure to our pets! We all want out homes to smell nice – walking in your front door to be hit with a beautiful fragrance of apple, geranium, freesia, or whatever you most prefer is just the loveliest thing… however; is it doing the health our pets any favours (or us for that matter!)? It may not be! The vast majority of scents in the home, whether it’s through the burning of candles, plug in diffusers, reed diffusers, or room sprays, contain VOCs – Volatile Organic Compounds. These VOCs can be quite a hazard to the health of us and our pets, not to mention the behavioural side of it for our fluffy dependants! Health risks of VOCs include: Eye, nose and throat irritation Headaches Loss of coordination Nausea Potential damage to the liver Potential damage to the kidneys Potential neurological damage Cancer (some, not all, VOCs are known to be carcinogenic) Birth defects Fertility issues How can we have a nice smelling home, without the VOC risks? First, ditch the diffusers, plug ins, candles and room sprays! Here’s some handy hints and tips to help your home smell nice, without the risks: Vacuum daily Invest in a good air purifying unit, appropriate to the size of the area you want it to cover. Pop a pan of water on the stove. Add in your favourite natural scent providing materials, such as cinnamon sticks, orange peel, lemon peel, cloves, star anise, lavender, thyme, or whatever fresh ingredients really take your fancy! Heat it and keep it on a low simmer – it will fill the room with a beautiful, custom made scent! You can even pop some of the boiled, scented water in a spray bottle, and spray it in other rooms! Chat to a qualified naturopath with knowledge on suitable essential oils for your pets – these must be self-selected by
The topic for this blog post here at My Pet Nutritionist, is all about the skin, specifically, two skin conditions we see frequently in dogs who come to us for help. Calcinosis Cutis, and Mucinosis are two conditions affecting the epidermis, and can be mild, or severe. Find out more about what they look like, what causes them, and how to support the body in getting rid of them in this blog post. What Are Calcinosis Cutis and Mucinosis? Calcinosis cutis and Mucinosis are both skin conditions, which can look quite similar. They both result in hairloss and redness of the skin, usually with either scabs, lesions, or small bobbles of skin, much like a patch of very tiny grapes. The bobbles are more apparent in cases of Mucinosis, and the legions or scabs are more typical of those suffering with calcinosis. Both conditions are as a result of a build up of substances in the various layers of the skin, but the deposits are different depending on the condition. Calcinosis cutis occurs when there are deposits of insoluble minerals in the skin, which leads to dystrophic calcification (where blood calcium levels are normal, but calcium salts are deposited in tissues, often due to damage) or metastatic calcification (where blood calcium levels are elevated). Dystrophic calcification is the more common form of calcification found in dogs, but metastatic calcification can happen. This condition is often in one or two smaller patches on your dog, however if the majority of the body is covered in the associated calcium deposits, the vet may diagnose it as Calcinosis universalis. Findings Here Dogs diagnosed with this condition require further investigation, as it occurs as a secondary issue to an underlying, and often severe health problem, which we will go deeper into shortly. Findings Here Mucinosis, or Cutaneous Mucinosis, happens when there is a build up of a glycoprotein called Mucin. Mucin is predominantly comprised of Hyaluronic Acid, and is essential in the body and plays a role in immune system modulation, inflammation control, lubrication of the digestive and reproductive tracts, lubrication of joints, and aids in the removal of pathogens, allergens, and foreign bodies. The more Hyaluronic Acid in the body, the more mucin there is, produced by the intestinal epithelium. Excess Mucin in the body is pushed toward the surface of the skin, which leads to severe bobbling and folding of the skin. Findings Here Findings Here A diagnosis of Mucinosis is not usually life-threatening, but secondary issues including breathing issues, eye problems such as entropion, and bacterial skin issues may occur. Mucinosis also occurs as a secondary condition to an underlying health problem, much like those with Calcinosis cutis. Causes of Calcinosis Cutis and Mucinosis Both conditions are as a result of an underlying condition, so let’s take a look at what causes what! When it comes to breed predisposition, Mucinosis is common in the Shar Pei. This is thought to be due to a genetic mutation which has been inherited from earlier generations, which causes high levels of hyaluronic acid to be present in blood serum. Larger/heavier set breeds, including bulldogs and German Shepherds seem to be affected by Calcinosis cutis more commonly than other breeds. Findings Here Age can be a factor in Calcinosis cutis too, affecting younger dogs under 2 years of age more commonly than older dogs. Trauma to the body, and reactions to medications, vaccinations, and foreign bodies can all be common underlying causes of Calcinosis cutis, as these leave tissues exposed, and vulnerable to inflammation and deposits of calcium mineral salts. Trauma and reactions cause the dystrophic form. Similarly, as inflamed tissues are at higher risk of damage, allergies and intolerances can be linked back to both conditions. Working on allergies, and running an elimination diet is essential for many with these conditions. You can learn more about elimination diets here. You may also wish to check for allergies using a nutriscan test. Findings Here When we look at specific medications that can cause Calcinosis cutis, there’s one type we commonly see as a cause of the condition; steroids. The over use of steroids is one of the top contributors to the onset of Calcinosis cutis in its metastatic form. Long term steroids can leave the body open to so many diseases, which is why it’s always best to get to the root cause of your pet’s issue, and only use steroids short term, and as a last resort. Findings Here Much like the over use of steroids, the over production of corticosteroids, which are adrenal hormones used by the body in the control of inflammation, is another of the most common underlying problems associated with Calcinosis cutis. The condition ‘hyperadrenocorticism’ (commonly known as Cushing’s Disease) is where the adrenal gland over produces corticosteroids as a result of adrenal cancer, pituitary cancer, or overgrowth of the adrenal glands. Unfortunately, the presence of too much corticosteroid in the body can supress the immune system, and damage the gut microbiome, which causes deposits of calcium to build up in the skin. Findings Here Kidney disease can also be an underlying cause of a build up of calcium in the skin, as their main role is to remove waste and excess products from the blood. If the kidney is unable to function properly, it wont be able to filter out any excess mineral salts. This is more common in cats than dogs, but can also happen in dogs in rarer cases. In dogs, kidney disease and the associated onset of Calcinosis cutis can be caused by contraction of leptospirosis. Findings Here Those with cancerous tumours on major glands in the body can also cause the blood calcium concentration to raise, leaving the body with excess calcium to be pushed through the layers of the skin, causing Calcinosis cutis. Findings Here When it comes to non-genetic underlying causes of Mucinosis in dogs, there are two theories, both regarding hyaluronic acid. The first is that there is a defect
